This season, Vogue patterns have a new format. For Fall 2019, illustrations are out, and photography is in, even for the company’s house line. Also consolidated is the line branding and numbering, which used to differ between licensed and internal designs. Paris Originals, Designer Originals, even Vogue designer knockoffs — they all have the same new look.
Autumn means outerwear, and Laroche comes through with a chic trench coat with interesting details: a storm flap, arm band, and oversized belt carriers.
The coat is a design from Fall 2017, Adam Andrascik’s last collection for Laroche. The original also sports a collar hook and jumbo belt buckle.
Vogue noted the alternate version in tobacco leather — also seen in the Swiss magazine, Annabelle, which has a nice view of the shoulder dart.
From the late Paco Peralta, a cropped jumpsuit with Custom Fit sizing (for multiple cup sizes). The contrast insets are a signature touch, also seen on the bestselling V1550.
There are two new patterns by Rachel Comey. First, the coat ensemble at the top of this post: a collarless, raglan-sleeved coat and the Oscillate skirt, a gored, high-waisted skirt with notched waistband detail.
Comey’s Fall 2018 collection was modelled by Guinevere van Seenus, in a lookbook shot by Annie Powers and styled by Vanity Fair’s Samira Nasr.
The second Rachel Comey is the Steadfast jumpsuit, a cropped-leg style with square armholes and wrap overlay.
For Pre-Fall 2017, the designer showed it layered, jumper-style, with a blouse.
As worn in white by the editor Giannie Couji:
Vogue’s latest Gucci adaptation includes a jacket, dress, and pleated skirt. (Also sized for petites.)
Some will recognize the long, tan Gucci jacket from Peter Schlesinger’s photobook for Pre-Fall 2018 (last seen in my Summer post). Pair with a print dress and coronet for the full maximalist effect.
Gucci’s red, cardigan-style jacket and pleated skirt were a key look for Spring 2018.
As seen in the brand’s digitally painted Spring ’18 ad campaign:
Vogue’s other Custom Fit design for Fall is a version of Roland Mouret’s Royston dress.
First presented for Resort ’18, the Royston is an update of the hit Galaxy dress. For an even more faithful copy, serge the sleeve edge and add an exposed zipper. The dress is currently available in navy, white, and red through Roland Mouret’s webstore, or at Selfridges in new-season pink:
The Royston dress is also the basis for Mouret’s Clovelly bridal gown.
And rounding out the Fall collection, a version of an Alexander McQueen coat reminiscent of Spring ’99 Givenchy. (Includes petite sizing.)
Metamorphosis was the theme of Sarah Burton’s Fall 2018 collection for McQueen. Military touches in red and black referenced the Household Cavalry, the Queen’s bodyguard. Exhibit A: Burton’s asymmetrical blanket coat, as worn on the runway by Stella Tennant.
A closer look at the fringed edge reveals a meticulous finish on the reverse:
Those military colours are also seen in this season’s ad campaign featuring Kate Moss. McQueen Fall 2019 was inspired by the textile mills of Northern England, where Burton grew up.
8 thoughts on “Fall 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights”
Thanks as ever for all the analysis! This is a great pattern release.
Also worth mentioning is Vogue 1636, the amazing Oscar De la Renta wrap top lookalike. I was so happy to see that because I loved it when the Duchess of Sussex wore it last year.
Thank you so much for this informative and insightful blog. I greatly enjoy your comments and references and bow to your evident fashion knowledge. I just wish you wrote a blog more often! Thank you, I am now clearer on what patterns to buy and their background.
Chris, Thanks so much for your kind words about my blog. If you’re looking for more to read, there are 8 years’ worth of archival posts! (See Archives – on the right on the desktop site)
Thank you so much for the analysis. I appreciate the way you (and Vogue) can translate the oft times extreme runway fashion into more wearable, everyday style. If I only had somewhere to wear it, the Roland Mouret dress, either long or short, would be at the top of my sewing list. As a bridal gown, it’s breath taking.
Sorry to drop the link here https://oppositelock.kinja.com/cars-you-didnt-know-about-the-gucci-amc-hornet-863022472, feel free to remove when you’ve admired the AMC Hornet with the Gucci interior. My boss’s mom had one, and it was the car he drove to high school every day in a town where this was NOT a high status item. V1643’s coat screams to ride in that car.
I am fan of Roland Mouret, I have studied his designs and I have been to copy and sew some of his dresses for myself. I was looking for a Roland Mouret top Picture when I found Your blog. I didnt know VOGUE has made pattern of some of RM dresses.
Your blog is AMAZING, I love it. Greetings from Norway.