Horn/Griner, 1972 + Labour Day Sale
August 30, 2017 § 1 Comment
Vogue 8206 and 8204 in Vogue Pattern Book, 1972. Photo: Horn/Griner.
Horn/Griner photographed this military-inspired ensemble for an early ’70s issue of Vogue Pattern Book: the shirt, Vogue 8206, in camo voile and the pleated skirt, Vogue 8204, in khaki gabardine. The vest was available as a knitting pattern in the magazine. (Printed voile by Aquarius Fabrics; Rosewood Fabrics double woven polyester gabardine.) The scene captures the late-summer mood.
This Labour Day weekend, from Thursday, August 31st through Monday, September 4th, customers will receive 15% off everything in the PatternVault shop as part of Etsy’s first Labour Day sale. No coupon required—the new system will show the discounted price. And if you’re new to Etsy, you can use the new guest checkout.
Happy Labour Day, everyone. See you in September.
Harem Scarum
August 28, 2017 § 3 Comments
Pucci tunic and harem pants, Vogue Italia, January 1968. Photo: Gian Paolo Barbieri. Image: Pleasurephoto.
The early ’90s are back—and so are sarouel, or harem pants. Here’s a look at vintage patterns for this distinctive trouser style.
Like caftans, sarouel originated in ancient Persia. Persian sirwāl became Turkish şalvar, entering the Western fashion vocabulary via Ottoman culture and the early modern vogue for turquerie.
Tilda Swinton in 18th-century Ottoman dress in Sally Potter’s Orlando (1992) Photo: Liam Longman. Image: Pinterest.
Şalvar were introduced to Western women’s clothing in the 19th century as part of the Rational Dress movement: Amelia Bloomer conceived her eponymous trousers as “Turkish pants.” (On cycling bloomers see Jonathan Walford, The 1890s Bicycle Bloomer Brouhaha.) Couturier Paul Poiret is usually credited with making “harem” pants fashionable in the period before World War 1.
The Harem Girl. Bert Green for Puck magazine, 1911. Image: Wikipedia.
Lady Sybil (Jessica Brown Findlay) on Downton Abbey, Season 1 (2011). Image: Pinterest.
1960s
In the mid-’60s, harem pants enjoyed renewed popularity as glam loungewear. (I Dream of Jeannie started airing in September, 1965.) This Vogue pyjama with matching, dolman-sleeved overblouse has a cuffed trouser option:
Vogue 6435 (ca. 1965) Image: Mermaid’s Purse.
Pucci’s interest in harem pants predates the jewelled version at the top of this post: a short, blue harem ensemble was part of his 1965 Braniff flight attendant uniform. These high-waisted palazzo pyjamas also have a cuffed, harem option, as worn by Editha Dussler:
Vogue 1692 by Pucci (1967)
Anne de Zogheb modelled these Pucci harem pyjamas, which feature an intriguing self-lined skirt with side openings:
Vogue 2094 by Pucci (1969)
1970s
Bouffant knickers are a variation on the harem pant. This gold brocade, coat-and-knickers ensemble from Yves Saint Laurent’s Winter 1970 haute couture collection evokes the hippie trail. The model is Viviane Fauny:
Vogue 2501 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
From 1976, this Kenzo pattern includes a cuffed harem pant option. (A copy is available in the shop.)
Butterick 4793 by Kenzo (1976)
Hot pink harem pants catch the eye on this Very Easy Vogue pattern, which also includes palazzo pants and a maxi skirt:
Vogue 9633 (ca. 1977) Image: Etsy.
1980s
This gold satin pair, from Krizia, has no side seams:
McCall’s 7307 by Krizia (1980) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
In the early ’80s, the dropped-crotch, Zouave style of harem pant came to the fore. This Simplicity pattern includes Zouave pants in two lengths:
Simplicity 5538 (1982) Image: Etsy.
The trousers in this Versace ensemble evoke the harem silhouette, with draped volume tapering to a fitted ankle (see my Versace post for more photos):
Vogue 2702 by Gianni Versace (ca. 1981) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Very Easy Very Vogue got on the dropped crotch bandwagon with three styles of Zouave pants—view C with side drape:
Vogue 9591 (1986) Image: Etsy.
1990s
By the early ’90s, hip-hop musician MC Hammer had made so great an impact on popular culture that his characteristic trousers were known as “hammer pants.” Simplicity’s official MC Hammer unisex pants pattern came with not one but two iron-on transfers. (See envelope back here. There was even a doll clothes pattern for the MC Hammer action figure.) Drop-crotch pants could also be found as Butterick Classics and a unisex costume pattern.
Simplicity 7455 by MC Hammer (1991) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Issey Miyake designed these lowest of the low dropped-crotch pants, as worn by Phina Oruche:
Vogue 1328 by Issey Miyake (1994) Image: Etsy.
Recent patterns heralding the return of the sarouel include McCall’s 5858, Kwik Sew 3701, and the unisex Burda 7546. If the trend continues, perhaps we’ll see a pattern for Rachel Comey’s Pollock trouser…
Dancers from the robbinschilds company, Rachel Comey Resort 2016. Image: Vogue.com.
Patterns in Vogue: Making Up a Legend
July 20, 2017 § Leave a comment
Celia Hammond in British Vogue, October 1968. Photo: David Bailey.
A late ’60s loungewear pattern is the star of “Making Up a Legend,” photographed for British Vogue by David Bailey.
Celia Hammond wears Vogue 7430, made up in wave-patterned Schwarzenbach brocade in green and gold Lurex, with gold Mary Quant tights pulled up to cover the bare midriff. The gold belt is by the late, great Kenneth Jay Lane.
Vogue 7430 in British Vogue, October 1968. Photo: David Bailey. Model: Celia Hammond. Image: Youthquakers.
(See Youthquakers for more from this issue.)
Vogue 7430 (1968) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Sixth Blogiversary + Poll
July 11, 2017 § 49 Comments
Butterick 3110 jumpsuit, Butterick catalogue, June 1980.
The PatternVault blog turns six today. To celebrate, I’m doing something a little different—I’m hosting a giveaway linked to a poll:
Vogue 2366 by Bill Kaiserman. Vogue Patterns catalogue, April 1980.
To enter the giveaway: (1) Vote in the poll, and (2) Comment to let me know you voted. The winner, chosen at random, will win one $25 CAD gift certificate for the PatternVault Etsy shop.
Poll closes Monday, July 17th. Poll results and winner will be announced Tuesday, July 18th.
With thanks to Elizabeth C., who made sure the two 1980 retail catalogues pictured reached me all the way from Amherst, Massachusetts!
You and Me and Rainbows
June 23, 2017 § 3 Comments
Simplicity 9376 (1971) Image: Etsy.
Happy Pride! This year you can celebrate all summer with 2017’s rainbow trend. (See Lauren Cochrane, “The rainbow’s not over – it’s the style symbol of the season.”) It’s a vintage motif with roots in the ’70s and ’80s.
The ’70s rainbow trend was well underway before Gilbert Baker created the rainbow flag in 1978. (Read MoMA’s interview.) The groovy teens’ pattern shown above came with rainbow appliqués. Maija Isola’s Sateenkaari (Rainbow) print for Marimekko appeared the same year as Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon:
Maija Isola Sateenkaari printed fabric for Marimekko, 1973. Image: Etsy.
As did this Time-Life sewing book entitled Shortcuts to Elegance:
Shortcuts to Elegance: The Art of Sewing (1973) Image: Etsy.
From McCall’s Carefree line, this iron-on alphabet transfer pattern lets you spell whatever you like in rainbow caps:
McCall’s 5567 (1977) Set of full colour iron-on transfers.
Meredith Gladstone’s circa 1980 children’s décor pattern, “Cloud Room,” includes a rainbow pillowcase and rainbow-lined sleeping bag:
Vogue 2360 by Meredith Gladstone (ca. 1980) Cloud Room. Image: Etsy.
With the right print, home dressmakers could sew everything from rainbow dresses to coverups:
Butterick 3767 (1981) Image: Etsy.
Butterick 3902 (1981) Image: Etsy.
For those making their own Cheer Bear Care Bear, Butterick’s envelope explained the rainbow’s significance as a “traditional symbol of hope,” as well as “a cheerful reminder that things are getting better and even bad times can bring something beautiful”:
Butterick 6230 (1983) Cheer Bear. Image: Etsy.
Envelope back, Butterick 6230 (1983). Image: Etsy.
Hallmark’s Rainbow Brite licensing with McCall’s included a children’s costume, Rainbow Brite and Twink toys, and a set of mobiles.
Rainbow Brite patterns on the cover of McCall’s Crafts catalogue, ca. 1984.
With a Rainbow Brite doll—share in the power of the rainbow. McCall’s 9238 (1984) Image: Etsy.
With a Twink doll—create some color of your own. McCall’s 9231 (1984) Image: Etsy.
McCall’s 9254 (1984) Rainbow Brite costume. Image: ecrater.
A rainbow for your own—McCall’s 9523 / 769 (1985) Image: Etsy.
Of course, there’s no need to find the perfect rainbow fabric. All it takes is the right array of colours…
Alexander McQueen dress (Irere, SS 2003), Vogue Italia supplement, February 2003. Photo: Steven Meisel. Model: Eugenia Volodina. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Our Man in Leather: Bobby Breslau for Vogue Patterns
June 18, 2017 § 1 Comment
Bobby Breslau in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979. Photo: Charles Tracy.
“Our Man in Leather”: Vogue Patterns introduced Bobby Breslau, one of the company’s rare designers of accessories, with a winking acknowledgement of the gay community.
Bobby Breslau biographical note, Vogue 2184 (1979). Image: Etsy.
Bobby Breslau (ca. 1943-1987) was a friend of Halston, Stephen Burrows, and Keith Haring; photographer Charles Tracy, who took Breslau’s portrait, was a member of the same social circle. Breslau’s training was in the garment industry, but a toy commission from Halston set him on the path of accessory and furniture design. His tactile, unstructured style of bag showed a sculptor’s eye for colour and texture; the New York Times called it “the handbag of the 1970’s.” (See Robin Givhan’s The Battle of Versailles and Suzanne Slesin, “Beyond the Fringe: A Designer’s Zany World in Leather.”) Breslau was the manager of Keith Haring’s Pop Shop until his death from complications of AIDS in early 1987.
Breslau bag for Halston in Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (1999) Image: Behind the Seams.
In 1979, Breslau licensed two bag patterns with Vogue. Each design could be made in three sizes. Vogue 2153 is a “draw-stringer and scarf tie-up”:
Vogue 2153 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 2184 is a saddlebag and roll pouch:
Vogue 2184 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Just as Breslau’s unconstructed bag is back, so too are the brights of ’79. As Hannah Marriott writes, a trend for Lego colours is predicted for spring 2019…
Model with Breslau bag, Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979.
Taste the Infinite
June 11, 2017 § 5 Comments
Eight ways to wear an infinite dress. Sketch by Lydia Silvestry in Vogue, October 1976.
Summer means weddings and infinity dresses—or, if a couple is particularly on-trend, infinity bridesmaid jumpsuits.
TwoBirds bridesmaid jumpsuits, 2016. Image: Instagram.
China Machado’s summer 1973 resort set was a precursor to the infinity garments of the mid-1970s. Like the infinity dress and its cousins, Machado’s pieces call for two-way stretch knits; but Grace Mirabella’s Vogue featured the design in muslin, as worn by Beverly Johnson:
Very Easy Vogue 2881 by China Machado (1973) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Beverly Johnson in Vogue, May 1973. Photos: Kourken Pakchanian. Image: Youthquakers.
Lydia Silvestry trademarked “The Infinite Dress” and licensed it with McCall’s in 1976. As the pattern envelope says, “One size dress can be worn an infinite number of ways. See enclosed guide sheet illustrating 13 ways dress can be worn, or try creating your personal version.” (See Carmen Bouchard / Carmencita B’s posts about this pattern here.)
McCall’s 5360 by Lydia Silvestry (1976) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Silvestry also licensed her infinite jumpsuit as a pattern featuring Maud Adams. I think this pattern has my favourite fabric note: For best results use a Lightweight, Non-cling Stretchable Jersey-type Knit Fabric such as Rosewood Fabric’s LA GRAND QUE of 100% QIANA, Burlington’s AMBROSIA of 100% Dacron Polyester, Millikin’s SURE THING of 100% Dacron Polyester. (Click to view in the shop.)
McCall’s 5529 by Lydia Silvestry (1977) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
From Carol Horn, this dress has strapless and colour blocking options:
Vogue 1573 by Carol Horn (ca. 1977) Image: Etsy.
Also one-size, the Seven Way Wonder Dress seems to have been Butterick’s answer to the Infinite Dress. A winter retail catalogue shows the Wonder Dress as black tie wear:
Butterick 5230 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
The Wonder Dress – Wear It 7 Smashing Ways! Back cover of the Butterick retail catalogue, February 1977. Image: eBay.
Meanwhile, Simplicity had the Wonder Wrap Jiffy Jumpsuit and Jiffy Multi-Wrap Dress:
Simplicity 7957 (1976) Image: Etsy.
Simplicity 8086 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue released two Very Easy infinite dress patterns in spring, 1977:
Vogue 1640 (1977) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Vogue 1641 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 1641 is seldom seen, despite being illustrated by Antonio and photographed in Antigua for Vogue Patterns magazine:
Vogue 1641, Very Easy Vogue Patterns, May 1977. Illustration: Antonio. Image: Patterns from the Past.
Vogue 1641 in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1977. Model: Clotilde. Photo: Albert Watson. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Is that Patti Hansen modelling the Glamour Plus Dress?
Butterick 5683 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Fast forward to 2000, when McCall’s released an infinite dress by Debra Moises (Debra and Moises Diaz). The envelope shows 5 variations:
McCall’s 2781 by Debra Moises (2000) Image: eBay.
In early 2011, the New York Times ran a story about the trend for convertible garments (see Ruth La Ferla, “Convertible Clothing Is a New Twist for the Cost-Conscious“). Butterick featured an infinite dress (now out of print) on the cover of that year’s Spring catalogue:
Butterick 5606 on the cover of the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Butterick 5606 in the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Last summer, as part of their Archive Collection, McCall’s reissued their 1970s-era infinite dress and jumpsuit as a single pattern (still in print). These patterns are usually adapted somewhat from the vintage originals:
’70s Chic with Infinite Looks: M7384 in McCall’s lookbook, Early Summer 2016. Image: Issuu.
It’s easy to see why infinity dresses remain popular, with their carefree resort vibe and minimal fitting requirements. And on the pattern envelopes, the hall of mirrors effect never gets old, does it?
For more discussion and links, see Michelle Lee’s post.
Donna Karan’s jersey Infinity dress, 2011. Image: New York Times.
