Spring 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

©Paco Peralta
Paco Peralta’s design drawing for V1619. Image courtesy Paco Peralta.

After 99 years on the newsstand, and just as stores are receiving the new designer patterns for Spring ’19, Vogue Patterns Magazine is ceasing publication.

VPM’s final issue—and the Spring release—sees the return of Thai-American model and photographer Piyawan Chitsamran, a.k.a. Piya Wan.

Piyawan Chitsamran photographed in V1614 by Tom and Linda Platt by Jack Deutsch for the final issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine
The final issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine, February/March 2019. Model: Piyawan Chitsamran. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

The late, great Paco Peralta was promoting this pattern just days before his death. (See his design drawing at top of post.) As released, it includes the duster coat, shown in waxed polyester with a cotton poplin lining, and high-waisted gaucho pants. But as he told me, his submission also included the bias top.

Vogue 1619 by Paco Peralta (2019)
Vogue 1619 by Paco Peralta (2019) Image: McCall’s.

Zandra Rhodes is celebrating her label’s 50th anniversary in 2019. This jumpsuit with contrast binding is a Zandra Rhodes staple. The original is silk crepe de chine.

Vogue 1617 by Zandra Rhodes (2019)
Vogue 1617 by Zandra Rhodes (2019) Image: McCall’s.

The archival design, done in lipstick-print chiffon, was part of Rhodes’ second Archive collection for Matches Fashion.

Zandra Rhodes Archive II Lipstick jumpsuit in screen-printed silk chiffon. Image: Matches Fashion.

A silver version, for Fall 2018, was shot by Bridie O’Sullivan, the filmmaker / photographer behind Rhodes’ upcoming Jubilee documentary. (More at O’Sullivan’s website.)

Char Ellesse in Zandra Rhodes Party collection, Fall 2018
Zandra Rhodes Party collection, Fall 2018. Model: Charnah Ellesse. Photo: Bridie O’Sullivan. Image: Zandra Rhodes.

Badgley Mischka’s formal gown features a halter neckline with lace décolletage overlay.

Vogue 1615 by Badgley Mischka (2019)
Vogue 1615 by Badgley Mischka (2019) Image: McCall’s.

Add a beaded overbodice for a variation on the V1615 look.

Badgley Mischka’s gown with beaded tulle overbodice. Image: Badgley Mischka.

The striped dress on the back cover of the Spring lookbook is adapted from Carolina Herrera Resort ’18.

Vogue 9357 after Carolina Herrera, Vogue Patterns lookbook, Spring 2019. Image: Issuu.

The sleeveless midi dress is a Vogue Easy Options Custom Fit pattern, meaning it is adjustable for 4 cup sizes.

Vogue 9357 after Carolina Herrera (2019) Image: McCall’s.

The original is a linen-cotton denim that Vogue called “the standout material” of the collection’s casual pieces. As Nicole Phelps wrote, “Best of all was the sleeveless dress with contrast stitching, white buttons, and deep pockets.”

Carolina Herrera Resort 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Carolina Herrera Resort 2018
Carolina Herrera Resort 2018. Images: Moda Operandi.

Chop off the bodice for a tea-length skirt:

Carolina Herrera Resort 2018
Carolina Herrera Resort 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

Another Vogue Easy Options design, the hi-low V9360 is Vogue’s adaptation of young London label Palmer Harding.

Vogue 9360 after Palmer Harding (2019) Image: McCall’s.

The Spring 2019 runway version—called the Streep—had dolman sleeves and a gathered back. Red latex gloves optional.

Palmer Harding Spring 2019. Photo: Luca Tombolini
Palmer Harding Spring 2019. Photo: Luca Tombolini. Image: Vogue Runway.

Add some asymmetry to the hemline and you have the Split and Super shirts:

Image: Palmer Harding.
Image: Palmer Harding.

Roland Mouret’s navy Barwick dress was worn by a certain duchess. Vogue shot its adaptation in Mouret’s trademark Peppermint, but the envelope shows the navy dress front and centre.

Vogue 9355 (2019) Adaptation of Roland Mouret's Barwick dress, worn by Meghan Markle V9355
Vogue 9355 (2019) Version of Roland Mouret’s Barwick dress. Image: McCall’s.

The Barwick dress, from Resort 2018, is still available from the designer website (link). The original is double wool crepe.

Barwick dress, Roland Mouret Resort 2018. Model: Shujing Zhou. Photo: Maria Ziegelböck
Barwick dress, Roland Mouret Resort 2018. Model: Shujing Zhou. Photo: Maria Ziegelböck. Image: Vogue Runway.

The same front neckline is seen in Roland Mouret’s Noblethorpe dress:

Noblethorpe dress, Roland Mouret Resort 2018. Model: Shujing Zhou. Photo: Maria Ziegelböck. Image: Vogue Runway.

For a more faithful copy, adjust the back neckline and add an exposed zipper.

Back view of Roland Mouret's Barwick dress
Back view of Roland Mouret’s Barwick dress. Image: Roland Mouret.

Finally, although Cynthia Rowley is absent from Simplicity’s Spring release, the company has reissued a late 1940s stole dress from the Simplicity Designer’s Pattern line.

1940s vintage reissue Simplicity 8876 (2019)
Simplicity 8876 (2019) Image: Simplicity.

The original fabric suggestions were: Silk, rayon or wool jersey; silk or rayon crepes; monotone or figured pure silk; taffeta; faille.

1940s stole dress pattern Simplicity Designer's Pattern 8108
Simplicity 8108 (1949) Image: Etsy.

Patterns in Vogue: Pillow Talk

Dorothea McGowan in breakfast coat Vogue 9774, 1960 - "fresh, frothy, delicious - almost Victorian in feeling, even to the pale ribbon sash."
“Fresh, frothy, delicious” – breakfast coat worn by Dorothea McGowan in Vogue, May 1, 1960. Photo: Leombruno-Bodi.

This Galentine’s, a midcentury slumber party.

Leombruno-Bodi photographed three models, including Nena von Schlebrügge and Dorothea McGowan, in airy loungewear made from Vogue patterns.

Vogue 5032 and 9774 in Vogue, May 1, 1960. Photos: Leombruno-Bodi.

Left: Red polka dots printed on white cotton: brief panties, a top swung briskly from red ribbon shoulder straps. In Crown Soap n’ Water fabric. Centre: Candy-striped silk, slipping into a perfect fall from narrow, softly bowed ribbon straps. Pink and orange stripes skimming white silk; the ribbon, orange. A.P.Silk fabric. Right: White cotton batiste, embroidered with white medallions; single touch of colour, the trailing, sweet-blue ribbon. Emanuel Roth fabric. All ribbon by Century.

The patterns are Vogue 9774 and 5032, a ruffled breakfast coat and nightgown / short pyjamas and nightcap.

Late 1950s-early 1960s lingerie patterns Vogue 9774 and Vogue 5032 "Very Easy to Make"

Pattern images: Vintage Pattern Wiki, Pinterest.

Patterns in Vogue: Hutton Meets Warhol

Model reclines on a large Andy Warhol silver helium-filled pillow wearing a Vogue Pattern 6928 dress
Lauren Hutton with Warhol pillows. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: flickr.

A Vreeland-era Vogue Patterns editorial shows Lauren Hutton with silver, helium-filled pillows by Andy Warhol, who would have been 90 this year.

Andy Warhol photographed by Stephen Shore at Silver Clouds, Leo Castelli Gallery, 1966
Andy Warhol at the Leo Castelli Gallery, 1966. Photo: Stephen Shore. Image: Phaidon.

The Mylar pillows were the stars of Warhol’s Silver Clouds show at the Leo Castelli Gallery in New York. (More here.) The patterns are Vogue 6733 and Vogue 6928, both “Easy to Make.” Shown in silver cloqué, the short dress was adapted as a dancing dress; the long dress was designed as a nightgown. (Regina Novelty earrings; Bernardo sandals. Hair by Marc Sinclaire.)

Happy New Year, everyone! All the best for 2019.

Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966 Photo: Gianni Penati.
Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.
Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.

Vogue 6733 and Vogue 6928: 2 patterns worn by Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966

Pattern images: Mrs. Wooster, Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Grunge Again

Lady Gaga photographed by Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin (Lobster Eye) in Marc Jacobs' grunge reissue, Elle, November 2018. Stylist: Nicola Formichetti.
Lady Gaga in Marc Jacobs’ grunge reissue, Elle, November 2018. Photo: Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin. Editor: Nicola Formichetti. Image: Marc Jacobs via Twitter.

Grunge is back. Marc Jacobs has reissued looks from his Spring 1993 “grunge” collection for Perry Ellis as Redux Grunge.

Grunge Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs - Gladys Perint Palmer illustration in L'Officiel, February 1993
Illustration by Gladys Perint Palmer in L’Officiel, February 1993. Image: editionsjalou.com.

Juergen Teller’s ad campaign shows Jacobs’ iconic grunge pieces, resurrected from vintage and available exclusively from the designer’s website.

Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge advertising campaign by Juergen Teller
Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge campaign by Juergen Teller. Image: Marc Jacobs.

I wrote about Vogue’s two grunge Perry Ellis patterns back in 2013, as part of my series on early Marc Jacobs.

Grunge - Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis - two vintage '90s sewing patterns + runway photos

Now that Vogue has posted the entire collection online, we can ID the other dress. The button-front slip dress was originally worn layered, Seattle-style.

look 4 Nadja Auermann in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs
Nadja Auermann in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.
Naomi Campbell in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs look 5
Naomi Campbell in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.

None of the three pattern looks is part of the reissue, but the short version of the maxi dress—worn by Carla Bruni in 1992—can be seen on Lili Sumner in Teller’s campaign. (There’s also a new, flower chain print version of the ’90s floral dress.) As the web store notes, the dress was inspired by 1930s nightgowns. Just shorten V1304 to sew the look.

Carla Bruni in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.
Lili Sumner in Marc Jacob's Redux Grunge collection
Lili Sumner in Marc Jacob’s Redux Grunge collection. Photo: Juergen Teller. Image: Marc Jacobs via Twitter.

Winter/Holiday 2018 Designer Pattern Highlights

Simplicity 8733 by Cynthia Rowley FW 2017 lookbook photo by William Eadon
A look from Cynthia Rowley Fall 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: Vogue Runway.

The new designer patterns for Winter/Holiday 2018 amp up the drama with sparkle and embellishment.

Vogue’s designer cover looks are by Badgley Mischka. Gracing both catalogue and magazine covers is Nadja Giramata, a Rwandan-French model represented by Elite New York.

Vogue 1604 by Badgley Mischka, Vogue Patterns lookbook, Winter/Holiday 2018. Model: Nadja Giramata. Image: McCall’s.

Here and on the retail catalogue cover, she wears Badgley Mischka’s strapless popover gown with back detail. The original is stretch crepe with velvet ribbon.

Vogue 1604 by Badgley Mischka
Vogue 1604 by Badgley Mischka (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The popover gown is from Badgley Mischka’s Fall 2017 collection, which was inspired by the women of the interwar period.

A look from Badgley Mischka's Fall 2017 collection
A look from Badgley Mischka’s Fall 2017 collection. Image: Vogue Runway.

Other versions of the gown omit the grommets and embellish the flounce with lace or appliqué. The white dress is cocktail length:

Guipure lace and appliqué details on two dresses from Badgley Mischka
Guipure lace and appliqué details on two dresses from Badgley Mischka. Images: The Outnet.

The second Badgley Mischka pattern is a top and skirt ensemble with pearl-embellished cuffs.

Nadja Giramata in V1605 by Badgley Mischka, Vogue Patterns, December/January 2018-19. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

The designers used stretch velvet for the top and a lustrous satin for the draped evening skirt with bow accent.

Vogue 1605 by Badgley Mischka
Vogue 1605 by Badgley Mischka (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Photographer Jack Deutsch shared another shot of the ensemble on Instagram.

Ana Kondratjeva in Vogue 1605 by Badgley Mischka, 2018. Photo: Jack Deutsch via Instagram.

Combine the two looks and you get this current-season design:

Navy beaded sleeve popover gown, Badgley Mischka Fall 2018
Beaded sleeve popover gown, Badgley Mischka Fall 2018. Image: Badgley Mischka.

New from Paco Peralta: a three-quarter sleeved top and high-waisted skirt, shown in brown, sequinned tweed. The sculpted shapes reference early Pierre Cardin.

Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Look closely and you’ll see that all the side seams line up. This drawing shows an earlier version, without the princess seams:

Paco Peralta sketch for Vogue 1602 ©McCall’s/Paco Peralta.
Paco Peralta sketch for Vogue 1602 ©McCall’s/Paco Peralta.

From Sharon Lombardo for Anne Klein, an open-front tuxedo jacket and skinny stretch pants. The originals were crepe and ponte knit.

Vogue 1606 by Anne Klein
Vogue 1606 by Anne Klein (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The minimalist jacket was available in colours including claret, bright red, and basic black. Here’s a similar stitched shawl collar as seen in the Spring 2016 campaign.

Vivien Solari in Anne Klein's Spring 2016 ad campaign. Photo: Nathaniel Goldberg
Vivien Solari in Anne Klein’s Spring 2016 ad campaign. Photo: Nathaniel Goldberg. Editor: Laura Ferrara. Image: Instagram.

Simplicity’s latest Cynthia Rowley design is a bell-sleeved dress with whimsical appliqués. The pattern also includes a top.

Simplicity 8733 by Cynthia Rowley
Simplicity 8733 by Cynthia Rowley (2018) Image: Simplicity.

The Rowley original is wool with metallic leather appliqués. William Eadon photographed it against a giant satin bow for the seasonal lookbook (at top of post).

Cynthia Rowley dress with appliqué detail, Fall 2017. Images: Moda Operandi.

The rose appliqués made other appearances in the collection: on a jumper and wide-leg trousers.

Cynthia Rowley Fall 2017
Cynthia Rowley Fall 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: vogue.com.

Bonus: From Vogue’s Fall release, a version of Alberta Ferretti’s Venetian coat:

V9340_a
Very Easy Vogue 9340 after Alberta Ferretti (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The version shown in Milan was midi length (view C) in unlined, mustard cashmere.

Yoon Young Bae in Alberta Ferretti FW 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

The pattern’s centre-seam hood is adapted from the original.

Alberta Ferretti hooded bow tie coat, Fall 2017. Images: Moda Operandi.

The coat features in Tim Walker’s ad campaign, which was styled by none other than Carine Roitfeld, the former editor of Vogue Paris.

Lexi Boling in Alberta Ferretti's Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld
Lexi Boling in Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld. Image: Alberta Ferretti.

Hack the pattern for a hooded cape—in opulent velvet for festive soirées:

Lineisy Montero, Lexi Boling, and Kiki Willems in Alberta Ferretti Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld
Lineisy Montero, Lexi Boling, and Kiki Willems in Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld. Image: Alberta Ferretti.

Ralph Lauren: 50 Years

Linda Evangelista in Ralph Lauren, Vogue, September 1991
Linda Evangelista in Ralph Lauren, Vogue, September 1991. Photo: Arthur Elgort. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: TFS.

Tonight at New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren celebrates his company’s 50th anniversary. Here’s a look at highlights of Ralph Lauren patterns from the ’70s to the ’90s.

Ralph Lauren: 50 Years (Rizzoli book)
Ralph Lauren: 50 Years (Rizzoli, 2018) Image: Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren started out in menswear, and Vogue Patterns’ first licensing with the brand was for men’s designs. The company released its first Polo by Ralph Lauren patterns in the summer of 1975.

1970s Polo Ralph Lauren men's patterns Vogue 1237 and 1238 spring 1975 photographed by Steve Horn
Vogue 1237 and 1238 by Polo Ralph Lauren in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1975. Photos: Steve Horn. Image: Make Mine Vogue.

That’s Polo Ralph Lauren on the right in Vogue Patterns’ American Bicentennial issue:

America the Beautifuls 1976
America the Beautifuls. Vogue Patterns, January/February 1976. Image: Etsy.

This Polo trench is classic for any gender:

1970s Polo Ralph Lauren menswear pattern Vogue 1581
Vogue 1581 by Polo by Ralph Lauren (ca. 1977)

Vogue’s licensing of Ralph Lauren women’s wear began in 1979. The earliest Ralph Lauren women’s patterns are for Annie Hall and Western looks like those shown in his Fall 1981 Santa Fe collection—prairie skirts, fringe, and serapes worn with cowboy boots and concho belts.

Clotilde in Ralph Lauren’s Fall 1981 ad campaign. Photo: Bruce Weber. Image: Ralph Lauren.

1981 Santa Fe Ralph Lauren dress pattern Vogue 2881
Vogue 2881 by Ralph Lauren (ca. 1981) Image: eBay.

Ralph Lauren’s Spring 1984 Safari collection is said to have been inspired by Out of Africa, perhaps with a dash of Picnic at Hanging Rock.

Clotilde in Ralph Lauren’s Spring 1984 ad campaign. Photo: Bruce Weber. Image: Pinterest.

Brooke Shields in Ralph Lauren / Ralph Lauren for Hat Attack, Vogue, May 1984
Brooke Shields in Ralph Lauren / Ralph Lauren for Hat Attack, Vogue, May 1984. Photo: Richard Avedon. Image: Pinterest.

Vogue 1547 by Ralph Lauren (1985) Image: Etsy.

Ariane Koizumi photographed by Elisabeth Novick in Vogue 1547 by Ralph Lauren, 1985
Ariane Koizumi in Vogue 1547 by Ralph Lauren, Vogue, May 1985. Photo: Elisabeth Novick. Image: TFS.

Late ’80s Vogue Career designs by Ralph Lauren feature British model Saffron Aldridge, then the face of the brand.

1980s Ralph Lauren career romper or dress pattern Vogue 2255 feat. Saffron Aldridge
Vogue 2255 by Ralph Lauren (1989) Image: Etsy.

Tartan was one of the main takeaways from Ralph Lauren’s Fall 1991 collection. (As L’Officiel observed, “For Ralph Lauren, tartan isn’t a fashion, it’s a lifestyle.”) Vogue released two patterns from this collection, a dress and trouser ensemble.

1990s Ralph Lauren pattern Vogue 2780
Vogue 2780 by Ralph Lauren (1991)

Vogue 2782 by Ralph Lauren (1991) Image: eBay.

Although the envelope for the dress shows it in solid red, the tartan looks had pride of place on the holiday covers, both Vogue Patterns Magazine and the December catalogue.

VPM NovDec1991 Great Scot! Ralph Lauren embraces the youthful spirit of tartans to balance the bold shape of a fit and flare jacket. Wear it with his elegant slim pant to create the season’s perfect ensemble
Cathy Fedoruk in Ralph Lauren, Vogue Patterns, November/December 1991. Photo: Christopher Micaud. Image: Etsy.

Vogue 2782 by Ralph Lauren, Vogue Patterns catalogue, December 1991
Ralph Lauren dress on the cover of the Vogue Patterns catalogue, December 1991. Image: Etsy.

The tartan pieces had already been promoted that same season in the Fall ’91 advertising campaign and a Grace Coddington / Linda Evangelista cover and editorial (“A Shot of Scotch”) in Vogue’s September issue.

Ralph Lauren ad campaign, Fall 1991. Model: Kim Nye. Image: Pinterest.

“A Shot of Scotch,” September 1991. Photo: Arthur Elgort. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Pinterest.

Some later covers showing Ralph Lauren in a less WASP-y mode:

Eva Green in Ralph Lauren photographed for L'Officiel by Satoshi Saïkusa, 2011
Eva Green in Ralph Lauren, L’Officiel, Dec/Jan 2011-2012. Photo: Satoshi Saïkusa. Editor: Monica Pillosio.

Rooney Mara in Ralph Lauren FW 2011
Rooney Mara in Ralph Lauren, Vogue, November 2011. Photo: Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. Editor: Tonne Goodman.

Fall 2018 Designer Pattern Highlights

Anne Klein FW2015
Vivien Solari in Anne Klein’s Fall 2015 ad campaign. Photo: Nathaniel Goldberg. Editor: Laura Ferrara. Image: Instagram.

Have you seen the new Fall patterns?

1597 Vogue Patterns lookbook Fall 2018
Scarlett Schoeffling in Vogue 1597 by Anne Klein, Vogue Patterns lookbook Fall 2018. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s cover look is a cropped trench jacket by Sharon Lombardo for Anne Klein. Trousers also included:

La Sena cropped trench - Vogue 1597 by Sharon Lombardo for Anne Klein
Vogue 1597 by Sharon Lombardo for Anne Klein (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The cropped trench is a signature Anne Klein piece, seen in the Fall ’15 (above) and Fall ’16 campaigns. (See my post on Vogue’s Winter/Holiday release.)

Anne Klein Fall 2016 ad campaign
Anne Klein Fall 2016 ad campaign. Photo: Annemarieke van Drimmelen. Model: Guinevere Van Seenus. Image: Behance.

From Badgley Mischka, a day-to-evening sheath dress, with cuffed sleeves cut in one with the bodice:

Vogue 1595 by Badgley Mischka
Vogue 1595 by Badgley Mischka (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The original is a navy poly-spandex crepe.

Navy crepe dress by Badgley Mischka. Image: Rent the Runway.

Brocade with a rose gold sparkle is the star of this Badgley Mischka cocktail dress with pleated sleeve flounces.

Vogue 1596 by Badgley Mischka
Vogue 1596 by Badgley Mischka (2018) Image: McCall’s.

A closeup view on the designers’ site, with a different pattern placement:

Detail, bell sleeve brocade cocktail dress by Badgley Mischka
Detail, bell sleeve brocade cocktail dress. Image: Badgley Mischka.

The flounce sleeve featured prominently in Badgley Mischka’s Fall 2017 collection—in black lace for the opening look.

Badgley Mischka FW 2017
Two looks from Badgley Mischka Fall 2017. Photos: Umberto Fratini / Vogue Runway.

Paco Peralta’s new design is an edgy LBD with two-way separating zipper.

Vogue 1593 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1593 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Plus, a men’s shirt from the team at Koos van den Akker. Make in a single fabric if print mixing isn’t your thing.

Vogue 1599 by Koos van den Akker
Vogue 1599 by Koos van den Akker (2018) Image: McCall’s.