Spring/Summer 2021 Designer Pattern Highlights

Rachel Comey yellow taffeta puff-sleeve dress, Resort 2020
Detail, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.

As Vogue Patterns was settling in under its new, British ownership, two seasons have gone by without my usual pattern report. I’ve been busy with the campaign to save the beautiful, historic St. Giles church here in Hamilton, Ontario. (If you want to help, please sign the petition here!)

Vogue 1777 Tempo dress pattern by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021
V1777 by Rachel Comey, Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021. Image: Issuu.
V1813, Vogue Patterns lookbook Summer 2021. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s spring cover look is a Rachel Comey dress from the Fall 2019 collection.

Rachel Comey Tempo dress on the Fall 2019 runway
Tempo dress, Rachel Comey Fall 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.

A loose midi dress with front pleats, the Tempo dress was shown in stretch poly-rayon suiting and a silk scarf print.

 Samya is 5’9.5” (176 cm) and wears a size 4 A sister to the Ardent Jumpsuit, the Tempo Dress is a waisted pleat front dress with midi length. It has a slightly loose, off the body fit which allows the pleats to move and for the whole style to drape around the neckline. Innsbruck is one of our favorite suiting fabrics; it holds structure while having enough stretch to provide flexibility and comfort.
Rachel Comey’s Tempo dress in Pink New Innsbruck. Image: Rachel Comey.
 Nora is 5’10.5” (179 cm) and wears a size 4 The pine cone, a new motif in our PF20 collection, has long been associated with enlightenment and intuition. Based on archival artwork from a historic Italian mill and inspired by vintage scarves, the print placement of Pine Cone Foulard is unique to each silhouette. The Tempo Dress is a waisted, pleat-front dress with midi length. It has a slightly loose, off the body fit suited to natural movement.
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2020: Tempo dress in a silk scarf print. Image: Rachel Comey.
V1777 Tempo dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021)
V1777 by Rachel Comey (2021) Tempo dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

For summer, there were two more Rachel Comey dresses, both from Resort 2020. The Lurie dress is silk-blend taffeta with metal mesh trim, in black or Citron:

Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black taffeta
Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black. Image: Shopbop.
Rachel Comey Resort 2020 lookbook: Lurie dress in Citron taffeta
Lurie dress in Citron, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
V1798 Lurie dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021)
V1798 by Rachel Comey (2021) Lurie dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

The New Cardiff dress is a longer, topstitched version of the Cardiff dress, which features unfinished hems:

Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal
Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal. Image: Pinterest.
Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal: detail showing raw sleeve edge with stay stitching
Rachel Comey Cardiff dress detail. Image: Lyst.

The long, denim New Cardiff dress made quarantine-dressing trend lists early in the pandemic. As seen in Sky or Sherbert denim:

Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Refinery 29.
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Garmentory.
V1799 Cardiff dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021)
V1799 by Rachel Comey (2021) Cardiff dress in Sherbert denim. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

From Guy Laroche by Richard René, a one-sleeved jumpsuit with attached half-jacket from the Spring 2020 collection. If I’ve translated my Russian right, it is cotton:

Guy Laroche white jumpsuit on the Spring 2020 runway
Guy Laroche by Richard René Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
комбинезон из хлопка - jumpsuit of cotton, Guy Laroche
Guy Laroche jumpsuit, Elle Russia, June 2020. Model: Catherine McNeil. Photo: Gilles Bensimon. Editor: Vadim Galaganov. Image: Elle.ru.
V1790 jumpsuit pattern by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021)
V1790 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Playing with grain and stripes is the focus of two recent Zandra Rhodes patterns. For summer, a dress with bell-flounce sleeves and handkerchief hem:

V1796 pink striped handkerchief dress pattern by Zandra Rhodes (2021)
V1796 by Zandra Rhodes (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

From the Winter release, there was this long-sleeved maxi dress from Rhodes’ Victoriana-inspired Fall 2019 collection, entitled The Golden Hour and exclusive to Liberty.

Zandra Rhodes long-sleeved maxi dress, Fall 2019
Zandra Rhodes Fall 2019. Photo: Richard Dowker. Image: WWD.
Vogue 1762 dress pattern by Zandra Rhodes (2020)
Vogue 1762 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Vogue has gone silent on their #SewTheLook designer adaptations. But in the Spring-Summer patterns, one inspiration is very recognizable — from SHOWstudio’s Spring 2020 free McQueen pattern.

Vilma Sjöberg on the Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 runway
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Vilma Sjöberg. Image: Vogue Runway.
V1782 dress after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021)
V1782 after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Finally, could the new Vintage Vogue be a Schiaparelli knockoff?

Caroline Mathis in Vintage Vogue top V1809, ca. 1947
V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue top, ca. 1947. Model: Caroline Mathis. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
V1809 (2021) Reissue circa 1947 design.
V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue reissue from ca. 1947. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Vogue 6036 (1947) ROund dropped-shoulder yoke with deep lapped-seam finish, front and back. Gathers below yoke in front.
Vogue 6036 (1947) Image: eBay.

Add a high collar and lace trim, and you have a New Look-era Schiaparelli blouse, as seen in Vogue.

Schiaparelli blouse and hat, Vogue, April 1, 1947. Photo: Serge Balkin. Image: Vogue Archive.

Libération at 50

Yves Saint Laurent smoking and shorts, Libération (SS 1971 couture) "Les nouvelles vamps" photographed by Dominique Laporte, L'Officiel March 1971
Yves Saint Laurent smoking and shorts, Spring 1971 haute couture (Libération). “Les nouvelles vamps,” L’Officiel no. 583 (March 1971). Photo: Dominique Laporte. Image: jalougallery.com.

Yves Saint Laurent’s landmark Spring 1971 haute couture collection, Libération, is 50. For more on the designer’s Libération collection, see my 2015 post here.

Yves Saint Laurent 1971: la collection du scandale. Exposition du 19 mars au 19 juillet 2015 - Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent 1971: la collection du scandale. Model: Willy Van Rooy. Photo: Hans Feurer.
John Cowan, Yves Saint Laurent Libération collection opening the Paris report in Vogue, March 15, 1971
Yves Saint Laurent Libération collection in Vogue, March 15, 1971. Photo: John Cowan. Image: Vogue Archive.

Saint Laurent unveiled the collection in Paris on January 29, 1971. Licensed Libération patterns were available from Vogue the next season, photographed by the late Frank Horvat.

1970s Yves Saint Laurent dress pattern - Vogue 2571
Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.
1970s Yves Saint Laurent three-piece suit pattern - Vogue 2598
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.

The Libération dress pattern was also seen in this textiles ad:

Knit-Away: Your Personal Knitter. Polyester double-knit advertisement with Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971
Knit-Away ad featuring Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971.

But the most popular of the two designs was the signature suit. Gianni Penati photographed the pantsuit, made up in black velvet, at the Richard Feigen Gallery in New York.

Gianni Penati, Vogue 2598 velvet pantsuit by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971. Now you can have black velvet from one end of the day to the other.... A perfect pants tailleur, with a trim little blazer and cuffed legs, turned out today with a white turtleneck sweater (tonight, tomorrow—white silk shirt and tie, black satin ribbon in your hair.)... " Both velvets of Acele acetate and Enka rayon by Martin Fabrics. (Trifari earrings; sweater by Korrigan for Jax; shoulderbag by Bill Smith for Mark Cross; Yves Saint Laurent shoes.)
Black velvet for day: Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent, Vogue, August 15, 1971. Photo: Gianni Penati. Model: Lynn Woodruff. Image: Vogue Archive.

Saint Laurent’s smoking, reenvisioned as as an embroidered evening jacket, even made the cover of Vogue.

 Vogue purple logo; Model Lynn Woodruff wearing a Vogue Pattern embroidered fabric jacket with red ruffle rose; Max Factor make-up and hair by Arthur of Kenneth
Yves Saint Laurent evening jacket V2598 on the cover of Vogue, January 15, 1972. Photo: Gianni Penati. Model: Lynn Woodruff. Image: Vogue Archive.
Gianni Penati, Vogue 2598 jacket by Yves Saint Laurent, 1972.  KJL earrings, Echo Designs scarf; flower by Dulken and Derrick; Golo shoes. Roman Stripe tights.
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (Rive Gauche pants), Vogue, January 15, 1972. Photo: Gianni Penati. Model: Lynn Woodruff. Image: Vogue Archive.
John Cowan, Editha Dussler in Paris, Yves Saint Laurent Libération pantsuit, 1971.
Yves Saint Laurent Libération pantsuit in Vogue, March 15, 1971. Photo: John Cowan. Model: Editha Dussler. Image: Vogue Archive.