Marisa Berenson

February 15, 2017 § Leave a comment

Marisa Berenson in Vogue 7827 on the cover of Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970

Marisa Berenson on the cover of Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Marisa Berenson (b. 1947) turns 70 today. Though best known for her work as a film actor in movies like Visconti’s Death in Venice (1971), Cabaret (1972), and Barry Lyndon (1975), Berenson grew up wanting to be a fashion model. Her career was launched when she met Diana Vreeland at a society ball, and she became one of the most successful models of the ’60s and ’70s. For more, see the visual biography Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures (Rizzoli, 2011).

Marisa Berenson promoting Kubrick's Barry Lyndon on the cover of Interview, Jan. 1975

Marisa Berenson as the Countess of Lyndon on the cover of Andy Warhol’s Interview, January 1975. Image: eBay.

As far as I know, Berenson appears on only one pattern envelope: Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta. Taken in a New York interior, the photo was also published in a 1970 Vogue Pattern Book feature on the designer:

1970s Oscar de la Renta dress pattern feat. Marisa Berenson, Vogue 2369

Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta (1970) Image: Etsy.

Berenson can also be seen in Vreeland-era pattern editorials in Vogue magazine, like this shoot by Guy Bourdin (see my earlier post):

Marisa Berenson photographed by Guy Bourdin in Vogue pattern 6916

Marisa Berenson in Vogue, August 15, 1966. Photos: Guy Bourdin.

Irving Penn’s “Look Marvellous” editorial, showcasing clothes in American fabrics, included Berenson in Vogue 7017 and Vogue 7022 (via Youthquakers):

Marisa Berenson photographed by Irving Penn in Vogue 7017 and 7022, shown in Forstmann and Anglo wool

“Look Marvellous”: Marisa Berenson in Vogue, January 15, 1967. Photos: Irving Penn. Image: Youthquakers.

This Gianni Penati editorial shows two Vogue Paris Originals by Marc Bohan for Dior, Vogue 1787 and Vogue 1792:

Marisa Berenson photographed by Gianni Penati in Dior patterns 1787 and 1792

“Hit Knits: the geometric jerseys.” Marisa Berenson in Vogue, June 1967. Photos: Gianni Penati.

The issue of Vogue Pattern Book with the Berenson cover (shown above) includes more of her editorial work. In “New Evening Splendour,” she wears the cover look, caftan Vogue 7827, as well as Vogue 7834 and Vogue 7836:

vpb junjul 1970 7836

Vogue 7836 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7827 caftan in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7827 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7834 Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7834 poncho and pants, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Berenson also models some jumpsuits in a summer portfolio—Vogue 7697 in a groovy print:

7697 Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970

Vogue 7697 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

High-waisted jumpsuit Vogue 7818:

7818 Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

Vogue 7818 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

And short jumpsuit and wrap skirt Vogue 7812:

Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970

Vogue 7812 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

Happy birthday, Ms. Berenson!

Marisa Berenson on the Tom Ford Spring 2011 runway

Marisa Berenson on the runway for Tom Ford’s Spring 2011 collection. Photo: Terry Richardson. Image: Harper’s Bazaar.

Patterns in Vogue: The Insiders (Galentine’s Day Edition)

February 13, 2017 § Leave a comment

Detail - Regina Jaffrey photographed in Vogue 8888 by Chris von Wangenheim, 1974

Detail, Vogue, November 1974. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.

Galentine’s Day calls for slumber party-worthy loungewear. “The Insiders,” a mid-1970s Chris von Wangenheim editorial photographed in interior designer Angelo Donghia’s New York townhouse, includes three Vogue patterns made up in gleaming satin.

"The Insiders" - Regina Jaffrey and unknown model in Vogue 8888, 1127, and 8855 photographed by Chris von Wangenheim, 1974

“The insiders… make their own gleam”: loungewear patterns in Vogue, November 1974. Photos: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.

On the left, Regina Jaffrey wears robe Vogue 8888 and trousers Vogue 1127; the model on the right is wearing jacket and drawstring pants Vogue 8855. Both ensembles were made in Qiana nylon, from American Silk Mills and Jules Moskowitz. (Hair by Maury Hopson; jewels: Van Cleef & Arpels.)

Detail - model photographed in Vogue 8855 by Chris von Wangenheim, 1974

Detail, Vogue, November 1974. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.

See Sighs and Whispers’ repost for the full editorial.

1970s patterns Vogue 8888, Vogue 1127, and Vogue 8855

Pattern images: Roma’s Maison, Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Nae Cotillion

January 25, 2017 § 3 Comments

McCall 3324 detail

Detail, McCall 3324 (ca. 1923).

Today is Robbie Burns Day. This 1920s children’s pattern makes a full Scottish outfit, including the hat and sporran:

1920s children's Scottish ensemble McCall 3324

McCall 3324 (ca. 1923) Girl’s Scotch Costume.

Patterns in Vogue: On the Move

January 19, 2017 § 1 Comment

1980s Geoffrey Beene dress pattern Vogue 1771 photographed for Vogue by Denis Piel

Detail, Vogue, August 1986. Photo: Denis Piel.

“On the move” is the concept for a mid-’80s Denis Piel pattern editorial featuring designs from Geoffrey Beene’s career line.

Here, Vogue 1770, Beene’s wrap jacket and skirt, is shown in wool jersey from Jasco Fabrics, with dress Vogue 1771 in Horikoshi silk crepe (Bally briefcase; Donna Karan bags; Omega belt; bracelets by Eric Beamon):

Vogue 1770 and 1771 by Geoffrey Beene, photographed for Vogue by Denis Piel

Vogue 1770 and 1771 by Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, August 1986. Photos: Denis Piel.

On the left, Vogue 1771’s jacket is made reversible in red and black wool coating, with wool gabardine trousers and a silk charmeuse tank made using Vogue 1773 (wool from Anglo Fabrics; silk from Hi Fashion Fabrics). At right, Vogue 1773’s coat becomes a raincoat in cotton back polyurethane from Waldon Textiles, with a cotton corduroy contrast from Majestic Mills (Omega belt; bags, Maud Frizon and Prada):

Vogue 1771 and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene, photographed for Vogue by Denis Piel.

Vogue 1771 and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, August 1986. Photos: Denis Piel.

In the back of the magazine, readers could find sewing tips for making the jacket reversible and giving the coat a contrast collar:

Details on Vogue 1770, 1771, and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene

Details on Vogue 1770, 1771, and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, August 1986.

Vogue 1770, 1771, 1773 by Geoffrey Beene

Pattern images: Vintage Pattern Wiki, Design Rewind Fashions.

Bad Girls Do It Well

January 12, 2017 § 1 Comment

Late 1950s Eastman Fibers Chromspun ad feat. McCall's 5020 and Pierre Cardin suit McCall's 5099

C’est Vous! 1959 Eastman Fibers advertisement featuring McCall’s 5020 and McCall’s 5099 by Pierre Cardin.

A 1959 Eastman Fibers ad brings a note of intrigue to McCall’s patterns by photographing them in a nightlife setting, on a pair of vampy women.

The patterns are McCall’s 5020, a strapless cocktail dress, and McCall’s 5099, a skirt suit by Pierre Cardin, both shown in Wesco Chromspun fabrics.

Chromspun is the trademark for Eastman colour-locked acetate yarn from Eastman Chemical Products Inc., then a subsidiary of Eastman Kodak—in those days headquartered on Madison Avenue.

Patterns in Vogue: The Silky Way

December 31, 2016 § Leave a comment

Brigitte Bauer photographed in Vogue pattern no. 6596 by Gordon Parks for British Vogue, 1965

Brigitte Bauer in British Vogue, November 1965. Photo: Gordon Parks. Image: Youthquakers.

A Gordon Parks editorial for British Vogue features Brigitte Bauer in NYE-worthy evening patterns.

Brigitte Bauer photographed by Gordon Parks in cocktail dress and toga gown made from Vogue patterns 6628 and 6596, November 1965

Vogue 6628 and 6596, British Vogue, November 1965. Photo: Gordon Parks. Model: Brigitte Bauer. Image: Youthquakers.

The patterns are Vogue 6628 and Vogue 6596, both Vogue Special designs. The cocktail sheath was made up in pale apple green wild silk from Dickins & Jones, the one-shouldered gown in light almond green Abraham silk crepe from Allan’s of Duke Street.

See Youthquakers for more of the November issue.

Happy New Year, all the best for 2017!

China Machado for Vogue Patterns

December 28, 2016 § 1 Comment

China Machado photographed by Bill King, 1970s

China Machado in Vogue Patterns, 1973. Photos: Bill King.

China Machado, the first mixed-race supermodel, has died. She was 86.

Bazaar Feb. 1959.

China Machado in Harper’s Bazaar, February 1959. Photos: Richard Avedon. Image: Emily Wardwell.

Born in Shanghai to Chinese and Portuguese parents, China Machado (1929-2016) was famous for working with Richard Avedon and Hubert de Givenchy. Later, she became a different kind of pioneer, as a model-turned-editor, when she succeeded Diana Vreeland as fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar.

bazaar apr 1971

China Machado on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, April 1971. Photo: Bill King. Image: eBay.

According to a 2010 profile, Machado made most of her own clothes, having learned to sew from her aunts in Shanghai. She returned to modelling in her eighties.

China Machado photographed by Brigitte Lacombe for the cover of New York magazine, August 2011

China Machado on the cover of New York magazine, August 2011. Photo: Brigitte Lacombe. Image: Cover Junkie.

In the ’70s, China Machado designed a Very Easy Vogue pattern for stretch knits, dubbed “The Shortcuts.” The collaboration was the subject of a four-page feature in Vogue Patterns magazine (click to enlarge):

China Machado: The Shortcuts. Vogue Patterns, June/July 1973.

China Machado: The Shortcuts. Vogue Patterns, June/July 1973. Photos: Bill King.

China Machado: The Shortcuts. Vogue Patterns, June/July 1973.

The Shortcuts – Vogue 2881 in Vogue Patterns, June/July 1973. Photos: Horn/Griner.

The wardrobe pattern of “nine easy pieces” for resort and lounge wear included a bikini, cover-ups, a skirt and pantskirt, and even a one-shouldered toga ensemble:

1970s wrap-and-tie pattern Vogue 2881, The Shortcuts, by China Machado: Tops, cover-ups, pantskirt, skirt, bikini and carry-all.

Vogue 2881 – The Shortcuts by China Machado (1973) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.

Another modelling pioneer, Beverly Johnson, wore Machado’s designs in Vogue magazine:

Beverly Johnson in Vogue pattern 2881 by China Machado and caftan Vogue 8587

Beverly Johnson in Vogue pattern 2881, by China Machado, and caftan Vogue 8587 in Vogue, May 1973. Photos: Kourken Pakchanian. Image: Youthquakers.

For more on China Machado, see Vanessa Friedman’s obituary or Bridget Foley’s 2010 profile for W.

With thanks to my mother and Nadia at Sew Exciting Needleworks.
China Machado in Derek Lam, Barney's Fall 2011 ad campaign. Photo: Mario Sorrenti. Editor: Carine Roitfeld

China Machado in Derek Lam, Barney’s Fall 2011 ad campaign. Photo: Mario Sorrenti. Editor: Carine Roitfeld. Image: Pop Sugar.

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