PatternVault

For World Goth Day, here’s a look at sewing patterns by Arkivestry and Karen Fleisch.

Arkivestry was born 40 years ago under another name. In 1986, Karen Fleisch and Robi Diana founded Accomplice NYC as a historically inspired, counter-cultural label that was soon nicknamed ‘The Enchanted Wardrobe.’

Accomplice / Arkivestry poet shirts and other dark-romantic designs from the label have been worn by rock stars like Cyndi Lauper, Diamanda Galás, Ozzy Osbourne, Al Jourgensen, and Mick Jagger.

The co-founders renamed their label Arkivestry during its tenth anniversary celebrations in 1996. The following year, they got a lot of press when supermodel Kirsty Hume chose Arkivestry for her wedding dress.

Simplicity licensed designs from Arkivestry and two affiliated lines, KRescent Costumes and Karen Fleisch Designs, for about a decade.

The company published its first Arkivestry patterns in 2008, the same year the label was featured in the Museum at FIT’s Gothic: Dark Glamour. In this publicity photo, a custom Arkivestry cape is seen alongside Valentino haute couture, Mugler (in coffin), and Mina’s red dress from Bram Stoker’s Dracula:

Because Karen Fleisch was also the fashion editor on these patterns’ photo shoots, the styling is true to her company’s aesthetic. Alas, this pattern does not include the parasol:

Arkivestry’s gothic nightdress pattern (featured in last year’s World Goth Day post) includes a top, cap, and bloomers. The nightdress was also shown with an Arkivestry pattern for “dog clothes in three sizes.”

This women’s steampunk costume includes a tie-on bustle:

Arkivestry’s steampunk / Jack Skellington suit has been in print for over a decade. Jack’s bat tie pattern was also available as a freebie in Cosplay Culture magazine.

Still in the cosplay vein, Fleisch even collaborated with Disney for Simplicity’s 2016 Alice in Wonderland patterns.

A harness and Elizabethan-style ruff are unique elements of this steampunk fairy costume. (The embellished hat was made available the following year.)

Three other Arkivestry designs from the last eight or nine years — two hat patterns and an Assassin’s Creed-style hooded coat — are still in print. The women’s hats include this bridal tricorne with veil, while the men’s hats pattern has a top hat for medium-weight fabrics.

Happy World Goth Day!