Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Detail, Badgley Mischka Fall 2019 runway presentation. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.

The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.

Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)

Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.

Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.

Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Guy Laroche FW19 campaign
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.
Vogue 1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020)
V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.

A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.

The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.

Jaunt coat
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.
Rachel Comey Jaunt coat pattern Vogue 1711 (2020)
V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.
Rachel Comey Alter pants pattern Vogue 1729 (2020)
V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.

One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.

A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.
Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.
Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1717 after Gucci (2020)
V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)

Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty fragrance campaign, 2019
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.
Navy belted wool and silk blend cady jumpsuit
Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Ecru belted wool and silk-blend cady playsuit
Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1719 jumpsuit pattern after Gucci (2020)
V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.

A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.
Veronika Kunz by fashion photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
Isabel Marant Resort 2020
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.

LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.
A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.
V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.

This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.

Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.
V1725 (2020)
V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020)
V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.

Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.

Isaac Mizrahi: Vogue Patterns

Isaac Mizrahi and Shalom Harlow photographed by Dewey Nicks for the Isaac Mizrahi Spring 1998 ad campaign
Isaac Mizrahi and Shalom Harlow in Isaac Mizrahi’s Spring 1998 ad campaign. Photo: Dewey Nicks. Image: Instagram.

Unzipped, the groundbreaking fashion film, is 25 this month.

The 1995 documentary made Isaac Mizrahi a household name. (Read more at Vogue.com.) To celebrate, here’s a look at Mizrahi’s vintage Vogue patterns.

Shalom Harlow and Amber Valetta photographed by Steven Meisel in Isaac Mizrahi formal wear on the cover of Vogue, September 1995.
Isaac Mizrahi formal wear on the cover of Vogue, September 1995. Models: Shalom Harlow and Amber Valetta. Photo: Steven Meisel. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Pinterest.
Isaac Mizrahi New York logo design by Tibor Kalman
Isaac Mizrahi label designed by Tibor Kalman. Image: Yale University Press.

Born in Brooklyn, Isaac Mizrahi (b. 1961) started licensing patterns not long after showing his first solo collection. Vogue Patterns Magazine welcomed him to the Vogue Individualist line for Holiday ’88 with two patterns shown in sorbetto brights.

"Newcomer Isaac Mizrahi: Coming on the scene in a burst of incandescent colors, this new, young talent is a natural Vogue Individualist!"
“New Comer Isaac Mizrahi,” Vogue Patterns, November/December 1988. (Vogue 2218 and 2219) Image: Etsy.

Even before Mizrahi received backing from Chanel, both Vogue and Vogue Patterns were champions of his work. This crisp Mizrahi shirtdress made the cover of the summer retail catalogue.

Vogue 2495 Vogue cat JulAug 1990
Vogue 2495 by Isaac Mizrahi on the cover of the Vogue Patterns retail catalogue, July/August 1990. Image: eBay.

Vogue included a Mizrahi jacket pattern in the spring 1991 budget-dressing editorial, “Fit to Print.” The jacket was made in a double-faced wool plaid from New York’s Felsen Fabrics.

"Fit to Print," Vogue March 1991. The suit of the younger generation, leggings and a jacket, gets a boost from bright plaids. Double-faced wool jacket, about $75. Vogue Pattern 2626. Fabric from Felsen Fabrics, NYC. Silk and Lycra leggings, about $30. Vogue Pattern 7733. Fabric from B&J Fabrics, NYC.
Vogue 2626 by Isaac Mizrahi (with V7733 leggings) in Vogue, March 1991. Model: Marielle Macville. Photo: Isabel Snyder. Editor: Elizabeth Saltzman. Image: Vogue Archive.

For Holiday ’94 — essentially the Fall-Winter ’94–95 season documented in Unzipped — Mizrahi designed what Vogue called a “mini-collection created especially for Vogue Patterns.” Several of these pieces were featured on the cover of the counter catalogue.

Vogue 1512, 1513. Vogue Patterns retail catalogue, January/February 1995
“Isaac Mizrahi for Vogue Patterns,” Vogue Patterns retail catalogue, January/February 1995. Image: eBay.

Vogue published a two-page article on the new Mizrahi patterns. The magazine had everything made up in silk lamé, wool jersey, and vinyl from B&J Fabrics.

Gold mind: After seasons of silver, Isaac Mizrahi goes for the gold with a strapless second-skin knee-length lamé cocktail dress (1, 2) and a high-shine lamé trench coat, which can stand alone as a dress or be worn as a traffic-stopping topcoat (3, 4) — evening wear King Midas would have loved. (V1512 dress and V1513 trench both in silk lamé from B&J Fabrics, NYC.)
“Cut it out!,” Vogue, December 1994. Photos: Richard J. Burbridge, Ellen von Unwerth. Image: Vogue Archive.
Vogue Dec 1994 p. 136 "Night vision: Isaac Mizrahi's golden ideas for evening chic range from a full-impact slinky floor-length gold lamé slip dress (1, 4), a flash-of-gold skinny belt on a black wool jersey shift dress (2) to a slim-cut gold lamé suit worn with a casual cotton camisole (3). Components for a high-glamour wardrobe include a tailored jacket in dramatic gold lamé (5), a streamlined knee-length wool jersey shift (6), and the techno mix of a gold spandex t-shirt with a knee-length black vinyl skirt (7).
“Cut it out!,” Vogue, December 1994. Models: Bridget Hall, Linda Evangelista, Karen Mulder. Photos: Richard J. Burbridge, Albert Watson, Ellen von Unwerth. Image: Vogue Archive.
Vogue Dec 1994 p368
Patterns – In This Issue, Vogue, December 1994. Image: Vogue Archive.

Isaac Mizrahi patterns were available through Vogue Attitudes until the later 1990s. Mizrahi graduated to Vogue’s regular designer line in 1998 — the year he shuttered his label.

Vogue 1963 (1997)
Vogue 1963 by Isaac Mizrahi (1997) Model: Maggie Giotta. Image: eBay.
Vogue 2207 (1998)
Vogue 2207 by Isaac Mizrahi (1998) Image: eBay.
1990s Isaac Mizahi cocktail or evening dress pattern Vogue 2230 - LazyGreyCollectibles on Etsy
Vogue 2230 by Isaac Mizrahi (1998) Image: Etsy.

Yet the mid-teens saw another comeback for the designer, with both a return to Vogue Patterns and a retrospective exhibition at the Jewish Museum, New York, entitled Isaac Mizrahi: An Unruly History.

Detail, Colourfield (Fall 2004). Isaac Mizrahi exhibition catalogue (Yale 2016)
Detail, Colorfield (Fall 2004). Chee Pearlman, with Lynn Yaeger, Kelly Taxter, and Ulrich Lehmann, Isaac Mizrahi (Yale University Press, 2016) Book design: J. Abbott Miller, Andrew Walters, Yoon-Young Chai, Pentagram. Image: Yale University Press.
(Vogue 1794)
“The American Style of Isaac Mizrahi.” Maggie Giotta in V1794, Vogue Patterns retail catalogue, June 1996. Image: eBay.