PatternVault

2000s, The pattern business

Summer 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

June 1, 2020by Sarah Sheehan3 Comments

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019 — Detail, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Have you seen the new summer patterns?

For Summer, 2020, Rachel Comey covers the Vogue Patterns lookbook for the second season in a row.

Rachel Comey top and pants (V1704) on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020 — V1704 by Rachel Comey. Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020. Image: Issuu.

Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.

Guinevere van Seenus photographed by Annie Powers in Rachel Comey Spring 2019 — Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018 photographed by Gus Powell — Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Gus Powell. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche is from Fall 2018, the same collection as Winter’s V1666 pantsuit. The runway version better shows the seaming detail:

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Fall 2018 collection. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue 1709 by Guy Laroche (2020) — Vogue 1709 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

From Badgley Mischka, a pattern for the Belcanto dress. The duo’s Spring 2018 collection was inspired by Capri.

Badgley Mischka Spring 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

Badgley Mischka lace-up broderie anglaise gown — Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.

Triple-tiered tassels not included.

Tassel detail, Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.

Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Belcanto dress. Image: McCall’s.

In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.

The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.

A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.

Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue 1701 after The Row's Abel blouse — Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.

For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 blue moiré faille jumpsuit — Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.

Vogue 1708 jumpsuit or romper pattern after Oscar de la Renta (2020) — Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.

It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)

A black jumpsuit in Cynthia Rowley's Spring 2020 collection — The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.

Black D-ring Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit pattern S9151 — Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.

Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.

Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.

For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.

Marquette sequin applique dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

1920s, 1930s, The pattern business

Selvedge 95 / #McCalls150

May 21, 2020May 29, 2020by Sarah Sheehan3 Comments

Joy Ossai photographed by Reze Bonna in Marianne Fassler Spring/Summer 2018-19 on the cover of Selvedge Issue 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020) — Joy Ossai in Marianne Fassler, *Selvedge* Issue 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020) Photo: Reze Bonna. Image: Selvedge.

I’m pleased to announce that I’m among the contributors to the upcoming Heritage issue of Selvedge Magazine. My piece is called “Maison McCall,” and it’s about McCall’s interwar couturier patterns.

Sarah Sheehan, "Maison McCall" with McCall 8524 dinner dress in Selvedge magazine 95 (July/August 2020) — “Maison McCall” in *Selvedge* 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020)

Did you know McCall’s shares its founding year with the Metropolitan Museum of Art? Both are celebrating their 150th anniversaries in 2020.

McCall Building, ca. 1905. Image: Museum of the City of New York.

Selvedge has both print and digital editions. Due to the coronavirus, this issue won’t be on newsstands, but it is available for pre-order. (Preview the Heritage issue here.) Selvedge 95 is out June 15th from selvedge.org.

Hope you enjoy the article!

1940s

VE Day

May 8, 2020by Sarah Sheehan1 Comment

Weldons So-Easy 20 detail

For the 75th anniversary of VE Day, a Weldons So-Easy roundup.

There’s a War On: Weldons So-Easy Patterns

What to Wear in an Emergency

Toddler’s Hooded Siren Suit

For your convenience, here are illustrations of other designs in the So-Easy pattern range. Other designs in preparation.

1990s

Patterns in Vogue: The Great Plain

April 26, 2020April 26, 2020by Sarah Sheehan1 Comment

Christy Turlington wears handmade dress Vogue 8293 (with Jil Sander coat), *Vogue*, August 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue Archive.

Do you remember Grace Coddington’s Amish editorial? From late summer, 1993, “The Great Plain” looks forward to Schitt’s Creek and today’s back-to-the-land trend. It also features two Vogue Sport dress patterns.

Christy Turlington in Vogue 8293 dress (Jil Sander coat), *Vogue*, August 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue Archive.

The Vogue team travelled to rural Pennsylvania for the shoot. In the opening spread and barnyard square-dancing sequence, Christy Turlington wears simple dresses, made up in cotton broadcloth from Sutter Textiles.

Christy Turlington in Vogue 8315, *Vogue*, August 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue Archive.

The patterns are Vogue 8293 and Vogue 8315, as edited by Vogue.

Very Easy Vogue Sport 8293 and Vogue Sport 8315 - Lengthen sleeves; do tucks in place of shirring; add buttons up the back — Technical drawing for patterns seen in “The Great Plain,” 1993.

Dan Levy as David Rose, at a Mennonite farm in Helmut Lang in Schitt's Creek - "Finding David" (season 2, episode 1) — David Rose (Dan Levy) returning to nature in CBC’s Schitt’s Creek, Season 2. Image: Vogue / PopTV.

1960s

Free Designer Pattern: Mary Quant Georgie Dress

April 13, 2020April 12, 2020by Sarah Sheehan4 Comments

Georgie dress by Mary Quant (ca. 1962) Image: V&A.

As part of its recent Mary Quant exhibit, the V&A shared a pattern for an early Quant design. The Georgie dress dates to the Bazaar days, before Quant’s deal with Butterick.

Photo: Richard Davis. Image: Harper’s Bazaar.

King's Road plaque: Dame Mary Quant, Fashion Designer, opened her boutique Bazaar on this site in 1955 — King’s Road Bazaar plaque. Image: Fashion Network.

The V&A’s Georgie dress— purchased new in Truro, Cornwall — is striped cotton lined with cotton batiste.

'Georgie' dress, Mary Quant, 1962, England. Museum no. T.74-2018. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Given by Sarah E. Robinson — Georgie dress by Mary Quant, ca. 1962. Gift of Sarah E. Robinson. Image: V&A.

As Quant’s archive shows, the dress was also available in taffeta-lined chiffon as the Rosie, in black, pink, or jade.

1960s design for 'Georgie' and 'Rosie' dress by Mary Quant — Design for ‘Georgie’ and ‘Rosie’ dress by Mary Quant (ca. 1961-65) Image: V&A.

The Georgie pattern was developed from Quant’s original by London’s Alice & Co Patterns, a mother and daughter team with a connection to the museum: the younger generation, Lilia Prier Tisdall, works there as a costume display specialist.

Mary Quant’s Georgie dress in Ray Stitch fabric. Sewing pattern designed by Alice and Co Patterns. Image © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

The dress has a surplice bodice, three-quarter sleeves, pleated skirt, and sash belt. For the original’s lively, reverse stripe effect, cut the skirt on a different grain than the sleeves and bodice.

Technical drawing for Mary Quant’s Georgie dress. Image: V&A.

The pattern gives detailed instructions, including for the pleated trim.

Download the Georgie dress pattern. (Instructions here.) The pattern has 7 pieces, arranged in 3 formats: A0, A4, and US Letter. Test square included to check scale.

Size: Two size ranges, UK 6–16 and 18–22

Yardage: 4m (4.5 yds) of 45″ fabric, 1m (1 1/8 yds) lining

Recommended fabrics: Soft cotton, cotton blends, or glazed cotton.

Seam allowance: 1cm (3/8″)

Notions: 56 cm (22″) flat zipper, interfacing for belt.

Notes: Skirt, frill, and belt pieces are to be drafted.

Click here for more instalments in my Free Designer Patterns series.