Famke Janssen
July 26, 2017 § 3 Comments
Famke Janssen on the cover of Elle, September 1985. Photo: Francis Giacobetti. Image: Pinterest.
This week’s post-Comic-Con models post looks at Dutch model-turned-actor Famke Janssen.
Famke Janssen on the cover of Spanish Elle, March 1989. Image: Fashion Model Directory.
Born in Amstelveen, Famke Janssen (b. 1964) studied economics at the University of Amsterdam before moving to the United States to pursue a modelling career. She signed with Elite in 1984. Returning to university in the early 1990s, Janssen gravitated toward drama; she went on to win starring roles in Star Trek: The Next Generation, GoldenEye (1995), and the X-Men franchise.
Famke Janssen and Mickey Cottrell in “The Perfect Mate,” Star Trek: The Next Generation, Season 5 (1992) Image: Star Trek Blog.
Famke Janssen as Jean Grey, TV Guide, July 15-21, 2000. Image: TV Guide.
Janssen did some modelling work for Butterick in the late 1980s: bridal and designer suits and formal wear by Ronnie Heller, Nicole Miller, and Morton Myles.
Butterick 3573 (1989) Image: Etsy.
Butterick 4374 by Ronnie Heller (1989) Image: Etsy.
Butterick 4376 by Nicole Miller (1989) Image: Artfire.
Butterick 4375 by Morton Myles for the Warrens (1989) Image: All the Precious Things.
Just for fun, here’s an ’80s editorial image featuring Janssen:
Famke Janssen in Rocco Barocco, Vogue Italia, December 1986. Photo: Hans Feurer. Image: tumblr.
Patterns in Vogue: Making Up a Legend
July 20, 2017 § Leave a comment
Celia Hammond in British Vogue, October 1968. Photo: David Bailey.
A late ’60s loungewear pattern is the star of “Making Up a Legend,” photographed for British Vogue by David Bailey.
Celia Hammond wears Vogue 7430, made up in wave-patterned Schwarzenbach brocade in green and gold Lurex, with gold Mary Quant tights pulled up to cover the bare midriff. The gold belt is by the late, great Kenneth Jay Lane.
Vogue 7430 in British Vogue, October 1968. Photo: David Bailey. Model: Celia Hammond. Image: Youthquakers.
(See Youthquakers for more from this issue.)
Vogue 7430 (1968) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
And the Winner Is… + Poll Results!
July 19, 2017 § Leave a comment
Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
The results of my random number generator are in! The lucky number is 5, and the winner of my blogiversary giveaway is:
Liz Haywood (the 5th person to comment)
Congratulations, Liz! I’ll send you an e-mail with the details on claiming your gift certificate.
Thanks so much to everyone who responded to the poll and entered the giveaway! It was great to hear what you enjoy about the blog.
And of course, thank you for reading and commenting on this blog for the past 6 years. As a thank-you to all of you, I’m having a flash sale in my Etsy shop through this Friday, July 21st—30% off with coupon code YEARTHESIXTH.
Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Sixth Blogiversary + Poll
July 11, 2017 § 49 Comments
Butterick 3110 jumpsuit, Butterick catalogue, June 1980.
The PatternVault blog turns six today. To celebrate, I’m doing something a little different—I’m hosting a giveaway linked to a poll:
Vogue 2366 by Bill Kaiserman. Vogue Patterns catalogue, April 1980.
To enter the giveaway: (1) Vote in the poll, and (2) Comment to let me know you voted. The winner, chosen at random, will win one $25 CAD gift certificate for the PatternVault Etsy shop.
Poll closes Monday, July 17th. Poll results and winner will be announced Tuesday, July 18th.
With thanks to Elizabeth C., who made sure the two 1980 retail catalogues pictured reached me all the way from Amherst, Massachusetts!
You and Me and Rainbows
June 23, 2017 § 3 Comments
Simplicity 9376 (1971) Image: Etsy.
Happy Pride! This year you can celebrate all summer with 2017’s rainbow trend. (See Lauren Cochrane, “The rainbow’s not over – it’s the style symbol of the season.”) It’s a vintage motif with roots in the ’70s and ’80s.
The ’70s rainbow trend was well underway before Gilbert Baker created the rainbow flag in 1978. (Read MoMA’s interview.) The groovy teens’ pattern shown above came with rainbow appliqués. Maija Isola’s Sateenkaari (Rainbow) print for Marimekko appeared the same year as Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon:
Maija Isola Sateenkaari printed fabric for Marimekko, 1973. Image: Etsy.
As did this Time-Life sewing book entitled Shortcuts to Elegance:
Shortcuts to Elegance: The Art of Sewing (1973) Image: Etsy.
From McCall’s Carefree line, this iron-on alphabet transfer pattern lets you spell whatever you like in rainbow caps:
McCall’s 5567 (1977) Set of full colour iron-on transfers.
Meredith Gladstone’s circa 1980 children’s décor pattern, “Cloud Room,” includes a rainbow pillowcase and rainbow-lined sleeping bag:
Vogue 2360 by Meredith Gladstone (ca. 1980) Cloud Room. Image: Etsy.
With the right print, home dressmakers could sew everything from rainbow dresses to coverups:
Butterick 3767 (1981) Image: Etsy.
Butterick 3902 (1981) Image: Etsy.
For those making their own Cheer Bear Care Bear, Butterick’s envelope explained the rainbow’s significance as a “traditional symbol of hope,” as well as “a cheerful reminder that things are getting better and even bad times can bring something beautiful”:
Butterick 6230 (1983) Cheer Bear. Image: Etsy.
Envelope back, Butterick 6230 (1983). Image: Etsy.
Hallmark’s Rainbow Brite licensing with McCall’s included a children’s costume, Rainbow Brite and Twink toys, and a set of mobiles.
Rainbow Brite patterns on the cover of McCall’s Crafts catalogue, ca. 1984.
With a Rainbow Brite doll—share in the power of the rainbow. McCall’s 9238 (1984) Image: Etsy.
With a Twink doll—create some color of your own. McCall’s 9231 (1984) Image: Etsy.
McCall’s 9254 (1984) Rainbow Brite costume. Image: ecrater.
A rainbow for your own—McCall’s 9523 / 769 (1985) Image: Etsy.
Of course, there’s no need to find the perfect rainbow fabric. All it takes is the right array of colours…
Alexander McQueen dress (Irere, SS 2003), Vogue Italia supplement, February 2003. Photo: Steven Meisel. Model: Eugenia Volodina. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Our Man in Leather: Bobby Breslau for Vogue Patterns
June 18, 2017 § 1 Comment
Bobby Breslau in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979. Photo: Charles Tracy.
“Our Man in Leather”: Vogue Patterns introduced Bobby Breslau, one of the company’s rare designers of accessories, with a winking acknowledgement of the gay community.
Bobby Breslau biographical note, Vogue 2184 (1979). Image: Etsy.
Bobby Breslau (ca. 1943-1987) was a friend of Halston, Stephen Burrows, and Keith Haring; photographer Charles Tracy, who took Breslau’s portrait, was a member of the same social circle. Breslau’s training was in the garment industry, but a toy commission from Halston set him on the path of accessory and furniture design. His tactile, unstructured style of bag showed a sculptor’s eye for colour and texture; the New York Times called it “the handbag of the 1970’s.” (See Robin Givhan’s The Battle of Versailles and Suzanne Slesin, “Beyond the Fringe: A Designer’s Zany World in Leather.”) Breslau was the manager of Keith Haring’s Pop Shop until his death from complications of AIDS in early 1987.
Breslau bag for Halston in Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (1999) Image: Behind the Seams.
In 1979, Breslau licensed two bag patterns with Vogue. Each design could be made in three sizes. Vogue 2153 is a “draw-stringer and scarf tie-up”:
Vogue 2153 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 2184 is a saddlebag and roll pouch:
Vogue 2184 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Just as Breslau’s unconstructed bag is back, so too are the brights of ’79. As Hannah Marriott writes, a trend for Lego colours is predicted for spring 2019…
Model with Breslau bag, Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979.
Taste the Infinite
June 11, 2017 § 5 Comments
Eight ways to wear an infinite dress. Sketch by Lydia Silvestry in Vogue, October 1976.
Summer means weddings and infinity dresses—or, if a couple is particularly on-trend, infinity bridesmaid jumpsuits.
TwoBirds bridesmaid jumpsuits, 2016. Image: Instagram.
China Machado’s summer 1973 resort set was a precursor to the infinity garments of the mid-1970s. Like the infinity dress and its cousins, Machado’s pieces call for two-way stretch knits; but Grace Mirabella’s Vogue featured the design in muslin, as worn by Beverly Johnson:
Very Easy Vogue 2881 by China Machado (1973) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Beverly Johnson in Vogue, May 1973. Photos: Kourken Pakchanian. Image: Youthquakers.
Lydia Silvestry trademarked “The Infinite Dress” and licensed it with McCall’s in 1976. As the pattern envelope says, “One size dress can be worn an infinite number of ways. See enclosed guide sheet illustrating 13 ways dress can be worn, or try creating your personal version.” (See Carmen Bouchard / Carmencita B’s posts about this pattern here.)
McCall’s 5360 by Lydia Silvestry (1976) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Silvestry also licensed her infinite jumpsuit as a pattern featuring Maud Adams. I think this pattern has my favourite fabric note: For best results use a Lightweight, Non-cling Stretchable Jersey-type Knit Fabric such as Rosewood Fabric’s LA GRAND QUE of 100% QIANA, Burlington’s AMBROSIA of 100% Dacron Polyester, Millikin’s SURE THING of 100% Dacron Polyester. (Click to view in the shop.)
McCall’s 5529 by Lydia Silvestry (1977) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
From Carol Horn, this dress has strapless and colour blocking options:
Vogue 1573 by Carol Horn (ca. 1977) Image: Etsy.
Also one-size, the Seven Way Wonder Dress seems to have been Butterick’s answer to the Infinite Dress. A winter retail catalogue shows the Wonder Dress as black tie wear:
Butterick 5230 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
The Wonder Dress – Wear It 7 Smashing Ways! Back cover of the Butterick retail catalogue, February 1977. Image: eBay.
Meanwhile, Simplicity had the Wonder Wrap Jiffy Jumpsuit and Jiffy Multi-Wrap Dress:
Simplicity 7957 (1976) Image: Etsy.
Simplicity 8086 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue released two Very Easy infinite dress patterns in spring, 1977:
Vogue 1640 (1977) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Vogue 1641 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 1641 is seldom seen, despite being illustrated by Antonio and photographed in Antigua for Vogue Patterns magazine:
Vogue 1641, Very Easy Vogue Patterns, May 1977. Illustration: Antonio. Image: Patterns from the Past.
Vogue 1641 in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1977. Model: Clotilde. Photo: Albert Watson. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Is that Patti Hansen modelling the Glamour Plus Dress?
Butterick 5683 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Fast forward to 2000, when McCall’s released an infinite dress by Debra Moises (Debra and Moises Diaz). The envelope shows 5 variations:
McCall’s 2781 by Debra Moises (2000) Image: eBay.
In early 2011, the New York Times ran a story about the trend for convertible garments (see Ruth La Ferla, “Convertible Clothing Is a New Twist for the Cost-Conscious“). Butterick featured an infinite dress (now out of print) on the cover of that year’s Spring catalogue:
Butterick 5606 on the cover of the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Butterick 5606 in the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Last summer, as part of their Archive Collection, McCall’s reissued their 1970s-era infinite dress and jumpsuit as a single pattern (still in print). These patterns are usually adapted somewhat from the vintage originals:
’70s Chic with Infinite Looks: M7384 in McCall’s lookbook, Early Summer 2016. Image: Issuu.
It’s easy to see why infinity dresses remain popular, with their carefree resort vibe and minimal fitting requirements. And on the pattern envelopes, the hall of mirrors effect never gets old, does it?
For more discussion and links, see Michelle Lee’s post.
Donna Karan’s jersey Infinity dress, 2011. Image: New York Times.
