Ariane Koizumi wears Vogue patterns by Yves Saint Laurent and Emanuel Ungaro, Vogue, November 1985. Photo: Bert Stern.
In 1985, Bert Stern captured Ariane Koizumi in two Vogue Paris Originals, made in metallic velvet for festive evenings.
The patterns are a wrap dress by Yves Saint Laurent and tunic/skirt ensemble from Emanuel Ungaro (Vogue 1651 and Vogue 1654), both shown in silk blend panné velvet from Lafitte. (Earrings, Lecour Johnson and Pellini Bijoux; bracelets, Debra Fine Yohai and Wendy Gell Jewelry; Charles Jourdan body stocking. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik and Yves Saint Laurent.)
Still from the Disney Hercules (1997) Image: IMDb.
The Saturnalia begins today. To mark the ancient Roman festival, here’s a look at patterns inspired by Saturn’s grandson, Hercules.
Poster for Disney’s Hercules (1997) Image: IMDb.
Rumours are swirling about a live-action Disney Hercules. The studio’s animated Hercules came out over two decades ago in summer, 1997. By the fall, the pattern companies were ready with Hercules-inspired costumes for children and adults.
Hercules and Megara is still a popular couple’s costume. Here is Butterick’s unofficial costume pattern:
Butterick 5108 (1997) Image: Pinterest.
The easier-to-find children’s version:
Butterick 5109 (1997) Image: Etsy.
Before Simplicity held the Disney license, the company combined unofficial Hercules costumes with its take on Xena, Warrior Princess.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.
My Winter patterns report comes a little late: I’ve been busy working to save a historic hotel-turned-tavern here in Hamilton. (Read my op-ed | #SaveHanrahans) Without further ado, here’s a look at the last patterns of the decade.
Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 by Badgley Mischka. Image: Issuu.
Vogue’s cover look is a white jersey gown from Badgley Mischka. As worn on the pattern envelope by new model Shaya Ali:
The new Guy Laroche — a minimalist pantsuit with contrast trim — is the company’s first by Richard René.
Vogue 1666 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2019) Image: McCall’s.
René’s second collection for Laroche was inspired by art brut and the graphic potential of a blank sheet of paper. According to Vogue, he showed structured pieces for strong personalities, with details like “stand-up edging that adds a cape-like extra inch or two to the shoulders.”
Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.
From Cynthia Rowley, a pattern for the Eden dress and top.
Simplicity 9012 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.
The original Eden dress in polished cotton. (The top version is a lightweight printed cotton: webstore | Rent the Runway.)
Cynthia Rowley’s Eden dress in polished cotton. Image: Cynthia Rowley / Pinterest.
This flounced dress by Cynthia Rowley is seen variously in the designer’s Inverness Fish print and bias-cut silk lamé.
Simplicity 9013 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.
Rowley’s longtime collaborator William Eadon photographed the lookbook in her hometown of Barrington, Illinois. The lookbook was styled by her daughter, Kit Keenan.
For a subtle variation, close the front bodice seam.
Inverness Fish mini dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
These pleated trousers are adapted from Celine by Hedi Slimane.
Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane (2019) Image: McCall’s.Hedi Slimane for Celine Fall 2019 Model: Marland Backus. Image: Vogue Runway.
McCall’s chic cover look is a version of Max Mara’s hooded cape coat.
McCall’s lookbook, Winter 2019. Image: Issuu.McCall’s 8029 after Max Mara (2019)
Here’s the Max Mara original in cashmere twill:
Max Mara Pugnale cape in blush cashmere. Image: Matches Fashion.
Vogue Couturier patterns are the original Vogue designer knockoffs. The new Vintage Vogue is a Couturier coat from 1949:
Vogue 490 (1949) Image: eBay.“Fashions for the life she leads” – Vogue, September 1949. Illustrations: Dagmar Freuchen-Gale.Vogue 1669 (2019) Image: McCall’s.Vintage Vogue 1669 on the cover of the Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook. Image: Issuu.
The new Custom Fit patterns are also designer adaptations. View A of V1654 is after Gucci.
Vogue 1654 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.Gucci grosgrain-trimmed stretch-ponte mini dress. Image: net-a-porter.
And V1667 is a version of Prabal Gurung’s tulip sleeve jacket. (Trousers not included.)
Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019) Image: McCall’s.
The tulip-sleeve suit comes in many variations, such as zebra print, sequins, and an ecru check. The latter is a very fine houndstooth in stretch poly-viscose.
Kara Young, Carré Otis, and Jennifer Noble in Vogue, January 1989. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier. Editor: Grace Coddington.
Happy birthday to Anna Wintour, who turns 70 today.
Wintour included Vogue patterns in U.S. Vogue from her first issue as editor. Above, the models’ white cotton kimonos were made with a unisex robe pattern (Vogue 8155). Below, in Wintour’s first issue, Cathy Fedoruk wears a Very Easy dress (Vogue 7146) in cotton piqué.
Cathy Fedoruk in “Hot Prospects,” Vogue, November 1988. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier. Editor: Jenny Capitain.
In Wintour’s first Holiday issue, “Skirts are layered for a romantic ballerina look.” Carré Otis’ skirts (Vogue 7267) are cream polyester chiffon from Symphony Fabric Corp and blue Stehli Seiden silk-polyamid georgette; the Chanel-style jacket is a Vogue Career design (Vogue 7316) in linen from Hamilton Adams, worn with a Very Easy top (Vogue 7128) in Jasco matte rayon jersey. “Sewing tips: eliminate cuff and finish sleeve… Cut skirt to desired length.”
Carré Otis in “Sheer Effects,” Vogue, December 1988. Photo: Arthur Elgort. Editor: Jenny Capitain.
