Patterns in Vogue: Hutton Meets Warhol

Model reclines on a large Andy Warhol silver helium-filled pillow wearing a Vogue Pattern 6928 dress
Lauren Hutton with Warhol pillows. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: flickr.

A Vreeland-era Vogue Patterns editorial shows Lauren Hutton with silver, helium-filled pillows by Andy Warhol, who would have been 90 this year.

Andy Warhol photographed by Stephen Shore at Silver Clouds, Leo Castelli Gallery, 1966
Andy Warhol at the Leo Castelli Gallery, 1966. Photo: Stephen Shore. Image: Phaidon.

The Mylar pillows were the stars of Warhol’s Silver Clouds show at the Leo Castelli Gallery in New York. (More here.) The patterns are Vogue 6733 and Vogue 6928, both “Easy to Make.” Shown in silver cloqué, the short dress was adapted as a dancing dress; the long dress was designed as a nightgown. (Regina Novelty earrings; Bernardo sandals. Hair by Marc Sinclaire.)

Happy New Year, everyone! All the best for 2019.

Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966 Photo: Gianni Penati.
Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.
Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.

Vogue 6733 and Vogue 6928: 2 patterns worn by Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966

Pattern images: Mrs. Wooster, Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Grunge Again

Lady Gaga photographed by Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin (Lobster Eye) in Marc Jacobs' grunge reissue, Elle, November 2018. Stylist: Nicola Formichetti.
Lady Gaga in Marc Jacobs’ grunge reissue, Elle, November 2018. Photo: Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin. Editor: Nicola Formichetti. Image: Marc Jacobs via Twitter.

Grunge is back. Marc Jacobs has reissued looks from his Spring 1993 “grunge” collection for Perry Ellis as Redux Grunge.

Grunge Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs - Gladys Perint Palmer illustration in L'Officiel, February 1993
Illustration by Gladys Perint Palmer in L’Officiel, February 1993. Image: editionsjalou.com.

Juergen Teller’s ad campaign shows Jacobs’ iconic grunge pieces, resurrected from vintage and available exclusively from the designer’s website.

Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge advertising campaign by Juergen Teller
Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge campaign by Juergen Teller. Image: Marc Jacobs.

I wrote about Vogue’s two grunge Perry Ellis patterns back in 2013, as part of my series on early Marc Jacobs.

Grunge - Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis - two vintage '90s sewing patterns + runway photos

Now that Vogue has posted the entire collection online, we can ID the other dress. The button-front slip dress was originally worn layered, Seattle-style.

look 4 Nadja Auermann in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs
Nadja Auermann in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.
Naomi Campbell in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs look 5
Naomi Campbell in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.

None of the three pattern looks is part of the reissue, but the short version of the maxi dress—worn by Carla Bruni in 1992—can be seen on Lili Sumner in Teller’s campaign. (There’s also a new, flower chain print version of the ’90s floral dress.) As the web store notes, the dress was inspired by 1930s nightgowns. Just shorten V1304 to sew the look.

Carla Bruni in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.
Lili Sumner in Marc Jacob's Redux Grunge collection
Lili Sumner in Marc Jacob’s Redux Grunge collection. Photo: Juergen Teller. Image: Marc Jacobs via Twitter.

Armistice Centenary

Illustration of women in uniform on the cover of Butterick magazine The Delineator, November 1918
Women in uniform on the cover of The Delineator, November 1918. Image: eBay.

This Sunday is the centenary of the Armistice of 1918, marking the end of World War I.

On the November 1918 Delineator cover shown above, two women wear military uniforms that could be sewn from a Butterick pattern. (Also pictured in the late Joy Emery’s book. Look inside the issue here.) Click the images below for my 1914 centenary post, Patterns for the Great War, and other patterns for war work.

Responding to the Country's Call: patterns for war work in McCall's magazine, July 1917.
Responding to the Country’s Call, McCall’s magazine, July 1917. Image: eBay.

McCall 8125 dress, McCall 8130 aviation cap / McCall 8121 dress - cover of McCall Fashions for January 1918
Wartime skating in an aviation cap (left). McCall Fashions for January 1918.

Costumes after Eiko Ishioka

Google doodle celebrating Eiko Ishioka's work in Tarsem Singh's The Fall (2006)
Google doodle celebrating Eiko Ishioka, 2017. Image: Google.

In memory of Eiko Ishioka, who would have been 80 this year, a look at costume patterns based on her work.

Eiko on Stage (Callaway, 2000) Image: abebooks.

Eiko Ishioka (1938-2012) is best known as the costume designer for The Cell and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, for which she won an Academy Award in 1993. Her last film project was Tarsem Singh’s Mirror Mirror, starring Julia Roberts and Lily Collins.

Poster for Mirror, Mirror (2012). Image: IMdB.

McCall’s and Simplicity both released patterns based on the film. McCall’s 6629 came in adult and children’s sizes. (Out of print, but details still on the Cosplay by McCall’s site.)

McCall’s 6629 / 240 (2012) Image: Etsy.

On the left—view D with collar E and feathered backpiece F—is Julia Roberts’ wicked queen. Ishioka’s original gown has panniers and miles of cartridge pleating:

The Queen (Julia Roberts) and Brighton (Nathan Lane) in Mirror Mirror (2012). Photo: Jan Thijs ©Snow White Productions, 2011.

The gown features white peacock embroidery and a molded basque with four-piece cups.

Julia Roberts as the Queen in Mirror Mirror. Image ©Snow White Productions, 2011.

View B (top right) is clearly Lily Collins’ Snow White, but so is view A. It’s the dress with floral basque and skirt, seen early in the film, which Ishioka topped with one of the most memorable capes in cinema.

Snow White (Lily Collins) in Mirror Mirror (2012). Image ©Relativity Media, 2011.

Lily Collins in Mirror Mirror (2012). Image ©Relativity Media / Richard Crouse.

Simplicity also offered Snow White’s dress from the film’s Bollywood finale, moving the giant bow down from the shoulders.

Simplicity 1728 (2012)
Simplicity 1728 (2012) Image: eBay.

Snow White (Lily Collins) in Mirror Mirror (2012). Photo: Jan Thijs ©Relativity Media.

The Costume Designers’ Guild gave Ishioka a posthumous award for Mirror Mirror. (For more on the production, see Wired.) And since her on-screen version, all yellow capes seem to point back to Snow White’s.

Caitriona Balfe wears Terry Dresbach's yellow cloak in Outlander, season 2 (2016)
Claire (Caitriona Balfe) in Outlander, season 2 (2016). Image: Starz / Life According to Jamie.

Alberta Ferretti coat, Fall 2017. Images: Moda Operandi.

Jordan Prentice, Joey Gnoffo, Sebastian Saraceno, Lily Collins, Martin Klebba, Mark Povinelli, Ronald Lee Clark, and Danny Woodburn in Mirror Mirror (2012). Photo: Matthew Rolston
Jordan Prentice, Joey Gnoffo, Sebastian Saraceno, Lily Collins, Martin Klebba, Mark Povinelli, Ronald Lee Clark, and Danny Woodburn in Mirror Mirror (2012). Photo: Matthew Rolston ©Relativity Media 2011.

Winter/Holiday 2018 Designer Pattern Highlights

Simplicity 8733 by Cynthia Rowley FW 2017 lookbook photo by William Eadon
A look from Cynthia Rowley Fall 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: Vogue Runway.

The new designer patterns for Winter/Holiday 2018 amp up the drama with sparkle and embellishment.

Vogue’s designer cover looks are by Badgley Mischka. Gracing both catalogue and magazine covers is Nadja Giramata, a Rwandan-French model represented by Elite New York.

Vogue 1604 by Badgley Mischka, Vogue Patterns lookbook, Winter/Holiday 2018. Model: Nadja Giramata. Image: McCall’s.

Here and on the retail catalogue cover, she wears Badgley Mischka’s strapless popover gown with back detail. The original is stretch crepe with velvet ribbon.

Vogue 1604 by Badgley Mischka
Vogue 1604 by Badgley Mischka (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The popover gown is from Badgley Mischka’s Fall 2017 collection, which was inspired by the women of the interwar period.

A look from Badgley Mischka's Fall 2017 collection
A look from Badgley Mischka’s Fall 2017 collection. Image: Vogue Runway.

Other versions of the gown omit the grommets and embellish the flounce with lace or appliqué. The white dress is cocktail length:

Guipure lace and appliqué details on two dresses from Badgley Mischka
Guipure lace and appliqué details on two dresses from Badgley Mischka. Images: The Outnet.

The second Badgley Mischka pattern is a top and skirt ensemble with pearl-embellished cuffs.

Nadja Giramata in V1605 by Badgley Mischka, Vogue Patterns, December/January 2018-19. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

The designers used stretch velvet for the top and a lustrous satin for the draped evening skirt with bow accent.

Vogue 1605 by Badgley Mischka
Vogue 1605 by Badgley Mischka (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Photographer Jack Deutsch shared another shot of the ensemble on Instagram.

Ana Kondratjeva in Vogue 1605 by Badgley Mischka, 2018. Photo: Jack Deutsch via Instagram.

Combine the two looks and you get this current-season design:

Navy beaded sleeve popover gown, Badgley Mischka Fall 2018
Beaded sleeve popover gown, Badgley Mischka Fall 2018. Image: Badgley Mischka.

New from Paco Peralta: a three-quarter sleeved top and high-waisted skirt, shown in brown, sequinned tweed. The sculpted shapes reference early Pierre Cardin.

Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Look closely and you’ll see that all the side seams line up. This drawing shows an earlier version, without the princess seams:

Paco Peralta sketch for Vogue 1602 ©McCall’s/Paco Peralta.
Paco Peralta sketch for Vogue 1602 ©McCall’s/Paco Peralta.

From Sharon Lombardo for Anne Klein, an open-front tuxedo jacket and skinny stretch pants. The originals were crepe and ponte knit.

Vogue 1606 by Anne Klein
Vogue 1606 by Anne Klein (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The minimalist jacket was available in colours including claret, bright red, and basic black. Here’s a similar stitched shawl collar as seen in the Spring 2016 campaign.

Vivien Solari in Anne Klein's Spring 2016 ad campaign. Photo: Nathaniel Goldberg
Vivien Solari in Anne Klein’s Spring 2016 ad campaign. Photo: Nathaniel Goldberg. Editor: Laura Ferrara. Image: Instagram.

Simplicity’s latest Cynthia Rowley design is a bell-sleeved dress with whimsical appliqués. The pattern also includes a top.

Simplicity 8733 by Cynthia Rowley
Simplicity 8733 by Cynthia Rowley (2018) Image: Simplicity.

The Rowley original is wool with metallic leather appliqués. William Eadon photographed it against a giant satin bow for the seasonal lookbook (at top of post).

Cynthia Rowley dress with appliqué detail, Fall 2017. Images: Moda Operandi.

The rose appliqués made other appearances in the collection: on a jumper and wide-leg trousers.

Cynthia Rowley Fall 2017
Cynthia Rowley Fall 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: vogue.com.

Bonus: From Vogue’s Fall release, a version of Alberta Ferretti’s Venetian coat:

V9340_a
Very Easy Vogue 9340 after Alberta Ferretti (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The version shown in Milan was midi length (view C) in unlined, mustard cashmere.

Yoon Young Bae in Alberta Ferretti FW 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

The pattern’s centre-seam hood is adapted from the original.

Alberta Ferretti hooded bow tie coat, Fall 2017. Images: Moda Operandi.

The coat features in Tim Walker’s ad campaign, which was styled by none other than Carine Roitfeld, the former editor of Vogue Paris.

Lexi Boling in Alberta Ferretti Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld
Lexi Boling in Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld. Image: Alberta Ferretti.

Hack the pattern for a hooded cape—in opulent velvet for festive soirées:

Lineisy Montero, Lexi Boling, and Kiki Willems in Alberta Ferretti Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld
Lineisy Montero, Lexi Boling, and Kiki Willems in Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2017 ad campaign. Photo: Tim Walker. Editor: Carine Roitfeld. Image: Alberta Ferretti.

Silhouette News for Fall, 1956

McCalls PB Fall 1956
Anne St. Marie in McCall’s 3793, McCall’s Pattern Book, Fall 1956. Photo: The Dodenhoffs.

There are only two weekends left to catch Balenciaga: Master of Couture at the McCord Museum. Anne St. Marie’s look (above) was inspired by Balenciaga.

From the inside note: “The new straight-coat fashion favored by Balenciaga, fall and winter coverage for its own sheath dress and everything else in your wardrobe. In colorful Anglo tweed and coordinated red wool, interfaced with Armo hair canvas to hold its line. Earl-Glo Sanitized taffeta lining; B.G.E. buttons. Emme hat; Mark Cross bag; Superb gloves.”

Pattern: McCall’s 3793.