Inaugural issue of Vogue Paris, June 15, 1920. Illustration: Helen Dryden. Image: Gallica / BnF.
Today is the 100th anniversary of Vogue Paris. To celebrate, here’s a decade-by-decade look at Paris and patterns from the 1920s to now. (Click the images for more.)
In the 1920s, designs by Chanel and other Paris couturiers were available from the McCall Pattern Company. (See my article in the new issue of Selvedge.)
McCall 4464 by Chanel (1926) Evening dress.
In the 1930s, the Authentic Paris Pattern company sold French designs exclusively, like this ensemble by Schiaparelli.
Paris Pattern 1647 by Schiaparelli (ca. 1931)
Vogue joined the party with its Paris Originals in 1949.
Vogue 1078 by Marie-Blanche de Polignac for Lanvin (1949) Image: eBay.
In the 1950s, the company released its first Dior patterns, by the young Yves Saint Laurent.
Vogue 1470 by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior (1959) Model: Isabella Albonico. Photos: Leombruno-Bodi.
The couture of André Courrèges caused a sensation in the 1960s. Courrèges didn’t license patterns, but that didn’t stop the American pattern companies from producing a wealth of knockoffs.
McCall’s 7923 after Courrèges (with Marcel Barbeau painting) in a Crompton Corduroy ad, 1965.
In the early 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent shook up the Paris couture with his ’40s-inspired Libération collection.
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.
In the late 1980s, when Christian Lacroix left Patou for the prêt-à-porter, his Vogue patterns were conspicuously photographed in Paris.
Vogue 2176 by Christian Lacroix (1988)
John Galliano’s mid-1990s tenure at Givenchy signalled a massive shift for the Paris couture. This ready-to-wear design was available from Vogue Patterns.
John Galliano for Givenchy advertising campaign, Summer 1997. Image: styleregistry.
Guy Laroche was the last, and longest running, label with Vogue Paris Originals. This suit from the aughts was designed by the late Hervé L. Leroux, formerly Hervé Léger.
Vogue 2937 by Hervé L. Leroux (Hervé Léger) for Guy Laroche (2006)
Today, Vogue Paris Originals are no more, and you’re more likely to see versions of styles shown on the Paris runway, like this coat adapted from Sarah Burton for McQueen.
Vogue 1649 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.
Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.
The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.
In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.
The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.
A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.
Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.
For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.
It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)
The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.
Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.
For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.
