Françoise Rubartelli in Vogue, January 1965. Photo: Franco Rubartelli. Image: Vogue Archive.
From Diana Vreeland’s Vogue, a mid-1960s Franco Rubartelli editorial featuring Françoise Rubartelli in two white jumpsuits made with Vogue patterns — or as Vogue puts it, “Two jumpsuit patterns with lean moon-shot lines, cut for action in pale moon-coloured jersey.”
I previously featured this Young Fashionables hooded jumpsuit in my Jill Kennington post, but American Vogue made it first, in Heller double-knit Celanese acetate:
Jumpsuit Vogue 6376 in Vogue, January 1965. (Jantzen sandals.) Model: Françoise Rubartelli. Photo: Franco Rubartelli. Image: Vogue Archive.
The Courrèges-inspired two-piece jumpsuit uses two patterns for a tunic and custom-fit pants, both made up in Wamsutta Orlon double-knit jersey.
Françoise Rubartelli in Vogue 6438 tunic and Vogue 6427 pants. (Doro scarf; Cobblers sandals.) Vogue, January 1965. Photo: Franco Rubartelli. Image: Vogue Archive.
As Vogue Patterns was settling in under its new, British ownership, two seasons have gone by without my usual pattern report. I’ve been busy with the campaign to save the beautiful, historic St. Giles church here in Hamilton, Ontario. (If you want to help, please sign the petition here!)
V1777 by Rachel Comey, Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021. Image: Issuu.V1813, Vogue Patterns lookbook Summer 2021. Image: Issuu.
Vogue’s spring cover look is a Rachel Comey dress from the Fall 2019 collection.
Tempo dress, Rachel Comey Fall 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
A loose midi dress with front pleats, the Tempo dress was shown in stretch poly-rayon suiting and a silk scarf print.
Rachel Comey’s Tempo dress in Pink New Innsbruck. Image: Rachel Comey.Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2020: Tempo dress in a silk scarf print. Image: Rachel Comey.V1777 by Rachel Comey (2021) Tempo dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
For summer, there were two more Rachel Comey dresses, both from Resort 2020. The Lurie dress is silk-blend taffeta with metal mesh trim, in black or Citron:
Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black. Image: Shopbop.Lurie dress in Citron, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.V1798 by Rachel Comey (2021) Lurie dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
The New Cardiff dress is a longer, topstitched version of the Cardiff dress, which features unfinished hems:
The long, denim New Cardiff dress made quarantine-dressing trend lists early in the pandemic. As seen in Sky or Sherbert denim:
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Refinery 29.Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Garmentory.V1799 by Rachel Comey (2021) Cardiff dress in Sherbert denim. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
From Guy Laroche by Richard René, a one-sleeved jumpsuit with attached half-jacket from the Spring 2020 collection. If I’ve translated my Russian right, it is cotton:
Guy Laroche by Richard René Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.Guy Laroche jumpsuit, Elle Russia, June 2020. Model: Catherine McNeil. Photo: Gilles Bensimon. Editor: Vadim Galaganov. Image: Elle.ru.V1790 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Playing with grain and stripes is the focus of two recent Zandra Rhodes patterns. For summer, a dress with bell-flounce sleeves and handkerchief hem:
V1796 by Zandra Rhodes (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
From the Winter release, there was this long-sleeved maxi dress from Rhodes’ Victoriana-inspired Fall 2019 collection, entitled The Golden Hour and exclusive to Liberty.
Zandra Rhodes Fall 2019. Photo: Richard Dowker. Image: WWD.Vogue 1762 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Vogue has gone silent on their #SewTheLook designer adaptations. But in the Spring-Summer patterns, one inspiration is very recognizable — from SHOWstudio’s Spring 2020 free McQueen pattern.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Vilma Sjöberg. Image: Vogue Runway.V1782 after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Finally, could the new Vintage Vogue be a Schiaparelli knockoff?
V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue top, ca. 1947. Model: Caroline Mathis. Image: IG Design Group Americas.V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue reissue from ca. 1947. Image: IG Design Group Americas.Vogue 6036 (1947) Image: eBay.
Add a high collar and lace trim, and you have a New Look-era Schiaparelli blouse, as seen in Vogue.
Schiaparelli blouse and hat, Vogue, April 1, 1947. Photo: Serge Balkin. Image: Vogue Archive.
