Summer 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Detail, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Have you seen the new summer patterns?

For Summer, 2020, Rachel Comey covers the Vogue Patterns lookbook for the second season in a row.

Rachel Comey top and pants (V1704) on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020
V1704 by Rachel Comey. Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020. Image: Issuu.

Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.

Guinevere van Seenus photographed by Annie Powers in Rachel Comey Spring 2019
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020)
Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018 photographed by Gus Powell
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Gus Powell. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey
Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche is from Fall 2018, the same collection as Winter’s V1666 pantsuit. The runway version better shows the seaming detail:

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Fall 2018 collection. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1709 by Guy Laroche (2020)
Vogue 1709 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

From Badgley Mischka, a pattern for the Belcanto dress. The duo’s Spring 2018 collection was inspired by Capri.

Badgley Mischka Spring 2018
Badgley Mischka Spring 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Badgley Mischka lace-up broderie anglaise gown
Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.

Triple-tiered tassels not included.

Tassel detail, Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.
Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Belcanto dress. Image: McCall’s.

In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.

The Row Abel blouse
The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.

A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.

Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1701 after The Row's Abel blouse
Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.

For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 blue moiré faille jumpsuit
Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.
Vogue 1708 jumpsuit or romper pattern after Oscar de la Renta (2020)
Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.

It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)

A black jumpsuit in Cynthia Rowley's Spring 2020 collection
The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
Black D-ring Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit pattern S9151
Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.

Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.
Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.

For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Marquette sequin applique dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Selvedge 95 / #McCalls150

Joy Ossai photographed by Reze Bonna in Marianne Fassler Spring/Summer 2018-19 on the cover of Selvedge Issue 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020)
Joy Ossai in Marianne Fassler, Selvedge Issue 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020) Photo: Reze Bonna. Image: Selvedge.

I’m pleased to announce that I’m among the contributors to the upcoming Heritage issue of Selvedge Magazine. My piece is called “Maison McCall,” and it’s about McCall’s interwar couturier patterns.

Sarah Sheehan, "Maison McCall" with McCall 8524 dinner dress in Selvedge magazine 95 (July/August 2020)
“Maison McCall” in Selvedge 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020)

Did you know McCall’s shares its founding year with the Metropolitan Museum of Art? Both are celebrating their 150th anniversaries in 2020.

McCall Building, ca. 1905. Image: Museum of the City of New York.
Selvedge has both print and digital editions. Due to the coronavirus, this issue won’t be on newsstands, but it is available for pre-order. (Preview the Heritage issue here.) Selvedge 95 is out June 15th from selvedge.org.

Hope you enjoy the article!

Spring 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Tatyana Cooper wears bodycon dress pattern V1674 on the cover of the Spring 2020 Vogue Patterns lookbook
Vogue Patterns lookbook for Spring 2020. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

It’s nearly the equinox: time for my Spring patterns report. As I mentioned back in December, I’ve been busy with other projects. I’m happy to share that my campaign to save Hanrahan’s, a historic Hamilton hotel turned tavern, was successful! (Read my latest op-ed | front page news | local news coverage.)

Huge thanks to now-retired columnist Paul Wilson, who first got the word out about this fascinating Edwardian hotel.

Recently, there’s also been some major pattern industry news. More on that in a moment — but first, a look at the first patterns of the decade.

Vogue’s second pattern by Richard René, the new designer for Laroche, is an oversized, colour-blocked pantsuit from the Spring 2019 collection.

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019 collection
Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
Guy Laroche colour block pantsuit pattern by Richard René - Vogue 1687
Vogue 1687 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Last June, British Vogue’s Venetia Scott paired the Laroche jacket with trousers by Issey Miyake.

Rianne van Rompaey in Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake, photographed by Theo Sion & styled by Venetia Scott, British Vogue, June 2019
Pieces by Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake in British Vogue, June 2019. Model: Rianne van Rompaey. Photo: Theo Sion. Editor: Venetia Scott. Image: Vogue UK.

From Rachel Comey, the Agave pantsuit, as worn for the Spring 2019 lookbook by Guinevere van Seenus.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019 – Agave jacket and Divide pant. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.
Rachel Comey Agave jacket and Divide trousers pattern V1688 as worn by Amber Mitchell
Vogue 1688 by Rachel Comey (2020) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The Divide pant also comes in cropped and colour-blocked versions, or embellished with sequins:

Rachel Comey Divide pant in black and white wool.
Rachel Comey Divide pant in black and white wool. Image: The Dresslyn.
Rachel Comey Divide pant in red wool with sequin embellishment.
Rachel Comey Divide pant in crimson red wool with sequin embellishment. Image: Moda Operandi.

Comey’s licensing with Vogue Patterns began in Spring, 2010. A decade later, the company finally gave the popular designer a catalogue cover.

V1688 by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Spring 2020. Model: Amber Mitchell. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

Last fall, Zandra Rhodes celebrated her jubilee with a retrospective and catalogue from Yale University Press, Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion.

Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion by Dennis Nothdruft with Zandra Rhodes and Iris Apfel, Yale 2019
Dennis Nothdruft, Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion (Yale University Press 2019) Image: Zandra Rhodes.

The new Zandra Rhodes pattern is a boho bias dress with contrast sleeve and hem flounces. Fine finishing details include narrow hems and a bias-bound neckline.

Zandra Rhodes dress pattern V1676
Vogue 1676 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

McCall’s has a fresh new logo for 2020, when the company celebrates its 150th anniversary. But thus far, no new designer patterns.

M8049
McCall’s Early Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.
M8089
McCall’s Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: McCall’s.

And this month, Britain’s IG Design Group Plc completed its acquisition of CSS Industries, the parent company of McCall’s and Simplicity. (Details at Design Group’s site and Business Wire.) CSS acquired The McCall Pattern Company in 2016 and Simplicity Creative Group in 2017.

Will Design Group revive Vogue Patterns Magazine, a storied publication that dates back a century, or divest the pattern side of the business entirely? Stay tuned for more coverage of McCall’s 150th and other milestones for 2020!

Guy Laroche Spring 2019 in Schön! magazine
Guy Laroche Spring 2019 in Schön! magazine. Model: Tetiuksha. Photo: Dylan Perlot. Editors: Sofia Giordano and Hugo Asensio. Image: Instagram.

Winter 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Guy Laroche FW 2018 by Richard René - V1666
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.

My Winter patterns report comes a little late: I’ve been busy working to save a historic hotel-turned-tavern here in Hamilton. (Read my op-ed | #SaveHanrahans) Without further ado, here’s a look at the last patterns of the decade.

Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 gown by Badgley Mischka
Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 by Badgley Mischka. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s cover look is a white jersey gown from Badgley Mischka. As worn on the pattern envelope by new model Shaya Ali:

Vogue 1656 by Badgley Mischka (2019)
Vogue 1656 by Badgley Mischka (2019) Model: Shaya Ali. Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche — a minimalist pantsuit with contrast trim — is the company’s first by Richard René.

Vogue 1666 by Guy Laroche
Vogue 1666 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2019) Image: McCall’s.

René’s second collection for Laroche was inspired by art brut and the graphic potential of a blank sheet of paper. According to Vogue, he showed structured pieces for strong personalities, with details like “stand-up edging that adds a cape-like extra inch or two to the shoulders.”

Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.

From Cynthia Rowley, a pattern for the Eden dress and top.

Simplicity 9012 (2019)
Simplicity 9012 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.

The original Eden dress in polished cotton. (The top version is a lightweight printed cotton: webstore | Rent the Runway.)

Cynthia Rowley’s Eden dress in polished cotton. Image: Cynthia Rowley / Pinterest.

This flounced dress by Cynthia Rowley is seen variously in the designer’s Inverness Fish print and bias-cut silk lamé.

Cynthia Rowley Sea Breeze dress pattern - Simplicity 9013
Simplicity 9013 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.

Rowley’s longtime collaborator William Eadon photographed the lookbook in her hometown of Barrington, Illinois. The lookbook was styled by her daughter, Kit Keenan.

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Silver Lake bias silk dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

For a subtle variation, close the front bodice seam.

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Inverness Fish mini dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

These pleated trousers are adapted from Celine by Hedi Slimane.

Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane
Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Hedi Slimane for Celine Fall 2019 Model: Marland Backus. Image: Vogue Runway.

McCall’s chic cover look is a version of Max Mara’s hooded cape coat.

McCall's lookbook, Winter 2019
McCall’s lookbook, Winter 2019. Image: Issuu.
McCall’s 8029 after Max Mara (2019)

Here’s the Max Mara original in cashmere twill:

Max Mara Pugnale cape in blush cashmere. Image: Matches Fashion.

Vogue Couturier patterns are the original Vogue designer knockoffs. The new Vintage Vogue is a Couturier coat from 1949:

Vogue 490 (1949)
Vogue 490 (1949) Image: eBay.
“Fashions for the life she leads” – Vogue, September 1949. Illustrations: Dagmar Freuchen-Gale.
Vogue 1669 (2019)
Vogue 1669 (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Vintage Vogue 1669 on the cover of the Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Custom Fit patterns are also designer adaptations. View A of V1654 is after Gucci.

Vogue 1654 after Gucci
Vogue 1654 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Gucci grosgrain-trimmed stretch-ponte mini dress. Image: net-a-porter.

And V1667 is a version of Prabal Gurung’s tulip sleeve jacket. (Trousers not included.)

Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019)
Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue noted Gurung’s “sharp-yet-curvy, cherry-red pantsuit.”

Prabal Gurung Resort 2018
Prabal Gurung Resort 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

The tulip-sleeve suit comes in many variations, such as zebra print, sequins, and an ecru check. The latter is a very fine houndstooth in stretch poly-viscose.

Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018
Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Prabal Gurung ecru check tulip sleeve jacket. Images: Moda Operandi.

With a few tweaks you can sew the look, as worn by Beyoncé.

Beyoncé in Prabal Gurung, October 2018. Image: Twitter.

Patterns in Vogue: Anna Wintour Birthday Edition

Vogue 8155 cotton kimono in Vogue, January 1989
Kara Young, Carré Otis, and Jennifer Noble in Vogue, January 1989. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier. Editor: Grace Coddington.

Happy birthday to Anna Wintour, who turns 70 today.

Wintour included Vogue patterns in U.S. Vogue from her first issue as editor. Above, the models’ white cotton kimonos were made with a unisex robe pattern (Vogue 8155). Below, in Wintour’s first issue, Cathy Fedoruk wears a Very Easy dress (Vogue 7146) in cotton piqué.

"Hot Prospects" Vogue Nov 1988 Wintour 1st issue. The new colors for resort: gunmetal and white. Make the dress that may make your summer: for A.M./P.M., city/ resort, a textured cotton piqué dress with a square-necked front. Vogue Pattern no. 7146. Fabric, Batex S.P.A. Beauty and the back: sun protection from Ultima II ProCollagen SPF 4. Plain geometry: bold crisscross straps on dresses
Cathy Fedoruk in “Hot Prospects,” Vogue, November 1988. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier. Editor: Jenny Capitain.

In Wintour’s first Holiday issue, “Skirts are layered for a romantic ballerina look.” Carré Otis’ skirts (Vogue 7267) are cream polyester chiffon from Symphony Fabric Corp and blue Stehli Seiden silk-polyamid georgette; the Chanel-style jacket is a Vogue Career design (Vogue 7316) in linen from Hamilton Adams, worn with a Very Easy top (Vogue 7128) in Jasco matte rayon jersey. “Sewing tips: eliminate cuff and finish sleeve… Cut skirt to desired length.”

"Sheer Effects" Vogue Dec 1988 7267 skirt, 7316 jacket, 7128 top (1988). Skirts are layered for a romantic ballerina look. Two chiffon skirts give a classic jacket and top an unexpected twist. Skirts, Vogue Pattern no. 7267. Cream chiffon, Symphony Fabric Corp.; blue chiffon, Stehli Seiden at Gordon Textiles International. Jacket, Vogue Career Pattern no. 7316. Linen, Hamilton Adams. T-shirt, Vogue Pattern no. 7128. Jasco rayon matte jersey.
Carré Otis in “Sheer Effects,” Vogue, December 1988. Photo: Arthur Elgort. Editor: Jenny Capitain.

Fall 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr. Image: Vogue Runway.

This season, Vogue patterns have a new format. For Fall 2019, illustrations are out, and photography is in, even for the company’s house line. Also consolidated is the line branding and numbering, which used to differ between licensed and internal designs. Paris Originals, Designer Originals, even Vogue designer knockoffs — they all have the same new look.

Vogue Patterns Fall 2019 lookbook cover with V1633 dress
Vogue Patterns Fall 2019 lookbook. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: Issuu.

Autumn means outerwear, and Laroche comes through with a chic trench coat with interesting details: a storm flap, arm band, and oversized belt carriers.

Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche FW 2017 trench coat pattern V1650
Vogue 1650 by Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche (2019) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The coat is a design from Fall 2017, Adam Andrascik’s last collection for Laroche. The original also sports a collar hook and jumbo belt buckle.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue noted the alternate version in tobacco leather — also seen in the Swiss magazine, Annabelle, which has a nice view of the shoulder dart.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.
Guy Laroche leather coat in Annabelle, October 2017. Image: Guy Laroche.

From the late Paco Peralta, a cropped jumpsuit with Custom Fit sizing (for multiple cup sizes). The contrast insets are a signature touch, also seen on the bestselling V1550.

Paco Peralta jumpsuit pattern V1647
Vogue 1647 by Paco Peralta (2019) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

There are two new patterns by Rachel Comey. First, the coat ensemble at the top of this post: a collarless, raglan-sleeved coat and the Oscillate skirt, a gored, high-waisted skirt with notched waistband detail.

Rachel Comey coat and skirt pattern V1646
Vogue 1646 by Rachel Comey (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

Comey’s Fall 2018 collection was modelled by Guinevere van Seenus, in a lookbook shot by Annie Powers and styled by Vanity Fair’s Samira Nasr.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018
Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Model: Guinevere van Seenus. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr. Image: Vogue Runway.

The second Rachel Comey is the Steadfast jumpsuit, a cropped-leg style with square armholes and wrap overlay.

Rachel Comey Steadfast jumpsuit pattern V1645
Vogue 1645 by Rachel Comey (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

For Pre-Fall 2017, the designer showed it layered, jumper-style, with a blouse.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2017 Steadfast jumpsuit blouse look
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

As worn in white by the editor Giannie Couji:

Giannie Couji wears Rachel Comey's Steadfast jumpsuit in white
Steadfast jumpsuit in white Italian Foam. Model: Giannie Couji. Image: Rachel Comey.

Vogue’s latest Gucci adaptation includes a jacket, dress, and pleated skirt. (Also sized for petites.)

Gucci knockoff pattern V1643
Vogue 1643 after Gucci (2019) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

Some will recognize the long, tan Gucci jacket from Peter Schlesinger’s photobook for Pre-Fall 2018 (last seen in my Summer post). Pair with a print dress and coronet for the full maximalist effect.

Unia Pakhomova photographed by Peter Schlesinger in Gucci Pre-Fall 2018
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Model: Unia Pakhomova. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

Gucci’s red, cardigan-style jacket and pleated skirt were a key look for Spring 2018.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele red jacket and white, pleated skirt, Spring 2018
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Spring 2018. Model: Sarah Wilson. Image: Vogue Runway.

As seen in the brand’s digitally painted Spring ’18 ad campaign:

Gucci Spring 2018 campaign illustration by Ignasi Monreal
Gucci Spring 2018 campaign. Illustration: Ignasi Monreal. Image: Gucci.

Vogue’s other Custom Fit design for Fall is a version of Roland Mouret’s Royston dress.

Roland Mouret Royston dress knockoff pattern V1631
Vogue 1631 after Roland Mouret (2019) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

First presented for Resort ’18, the Royston is an update of the hit Galaxy dress. For an even more faithful copy, serge the sleeve edge and add an exposed zipper. The dress is currently available in navy, white, and red through Roland Mouret’s webstore, or at Selfridges in new-season pink:

Roland Mouret’s Royston dress in new-season pink, 2019. Image: Selfridges.

The Royston dress is also the basis for Mouret’s Clovelly bridal gown.

And rounding out the Fall collection, a version of an Alexander McQueen coat reminiscent of Spring ’99 Givenchy. (Includes petite sizing.)

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton blanket coat knockoff pattern V1649
Vogue 1649 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

Metamorphosis was the theme of Sarah Burton’s Fall 2018 collection for McQueen. Military touches in red and black referenced the Household Cavalry, the Queen’s bodyguard. Exhibit A: Burton’s asymmetrical blanket coat, as worn on the runway by Stella Tennant.

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018. Model: Stella Tennant. Image: Vogue Runway.

A closer look at the fringed edge reveals a meticulous finish on the reverse:

Detail, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018
Detail, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

Those military colours are also seen in this season’s ad campaign featuring Kate Moss. McQueen Fall 2019 was inspired by the textile mills of Northern England, where Burton grew up.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Kate Moss. Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth. Art direction: M/M (Paris). Image: Alexander McQueen.

Summer 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Zandra Rhodes 1973 Field of Lilies / Summer gown photographed by Claire Rothstein
Pat and Anna Cleveland, both in Zandra Rhodes’ Summer gown. Photo: Claire Rothstein. Image: Instagram.

Have you seen the new summer patterns?

Cover look V1627 is an archival design by Zandra Rhodes, as worn by the Latvian-American model Ana Kondratjeva.

Zandra Rhodes pattern V1627 as worn by Ana Kondratjeva on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2019
Zandra Rhodes dress pattern V1627 as worn by Ana Kondratjeva on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2019. Image: Issuu.

Rhodes reissued her 1973 Field of Lilies dress — renamed the Summer, in memory of Donna Summer — for Matches Fashion’s recent 30th anniversary. The designer commissioned Claire Rothstein to take the mother-and-daughter portrait at the top of this post, in which Pat Cleveland and her daughter, Anna, both model the dress. The original is printed silk chiffon.

Vogue 1627 by Zandra Rhodes
Vogue 1627 by Zandra Rhodes (2019) Model: Ana Kondratjeva. Image: McCall’s.
Matches Fashion 30th anniversary illustration by Zandra Rhodes, 2017
Matches Fashion 30th anniversary illustration by Zandra Rhodes, 2017. Image: Instagram.

Inspired by Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, the new Very Easy Vogue pyjama is illustrated with ribbon trim, and in a version of the Gucci Flora print.

V9375
Vogue 9375 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.

For Gucci Pre-Fall 2018, in place of a more conventional lookbook, American artist Peter Schlesinger shot a photobook on location in Rome. Called Disturbia, it was inspired by the films of Dario Argento, the director behind the original Suspiria.

Inside Disturbia – Gucci Pre-Fall 2018 by Alessandro Michele. Photos: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Another Man.

A variation of the Gucci Flora pyjamas in printed silk twill.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

Michele paired a full-length version of the trousers, trimmed in the distinctive Gucci ribbon, with a faux-fur coat.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

The Pre-Fall 2019 ad campaign features another version of the Gucci Flora pyjama, as seen in the ancient ruins of Selinunte, Sicily. Vogue’s reference kimono top and pant (on pre-order at Neiman Marcus) is silk georgette.

Gucci PreFall 2019
Gucci Pre-Fall 2019, with members of Brooklyn punk band Surfbort. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Instagram.

The new Tracy Reese sundress has a cowl neckline, criss-cross back, and midriff that extends into waist ties. (See WWD for recent news.)

V1625 by Tracy Reese
Vogue 1625 by Tracy Reese (2019) Model: Ana Kondratjeva. Image: McCall’s.

Martha Graham was the inspiration for Reese’s Spring 2015 collection, where the dress was shown with a kimono jacket in the same botanical print.

Tracy Reese Spring 2015
Tracy Reese Spring 2015. Photo: Alessandro Garofalo. Image: Vogue Runway.

There are two patterns from Rachel Comey. The first: the Willow peasant top and Basin pant with grosgrain waistband. Judging from the pattern number, it may have been delayed from the Spring release. Hopefully this doesn’t signal the wrapping up of the designer’s contract. (See: Laroche?)

Vogue 1618 by Rachel Comey
Vogue 1618 by Rachel Comey (2019) Willow top, Basin pant. Model: Heather Aboff. Image: McCall’s.

Both pieces made their début in Comey’s country-and-western themed Pre-Fall 2016 collection, shot by New York street photographer Gus Powell. The original Willow top (right) is rayon gauze.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2016
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2016. Photo: Gus Powell. Image: Vogue Runway.

For Fall 2016, Comey showed the top in a cute print. Later, it could even be seen in a lace and gingham combo.

Rachel Comey Fall 2016
Rachel Comey Fall 2016. Image: Vogue Runway.

The second Rachel Comey is a pair of unisex shirts. The unisex / menswear angle is welcome, since Comey made her name with men’s shirts. (See my earlier post.)

V1622 Rachel Comey unisex shirt pattern
Vogue 1622 by Rachel Comey (2019) Tre and Selleck unisex shirts. Image: McCall’s.

The Selleck shirt is short-sleeved, with seam interest, while the Tre shirt is a long-sleeved button-down. Both were shown in Comey’s Spring 2017 15th anniversary collection, which saw the launch of her unisex line.

Rachel Comey’s Selleck shirt, 2017. Image: Uncover LA.
Rachel Comey Spring 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.
Detail, Tre shirt by Rachel Comey in printed charmeuse, 2017. Image: Lyst / Farfetch.

After a decade of licensing, Simplicity has released a swimwear design by Cynthia Rowley. The colour-blocked one-piece is called the Heather, and retails in Rowley’s signature neoprene.

Simplicity 8928 by Cynthia Rowley (2019)
Simplicity 8928 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.
Cynthia Rowley’s Heather one-piece in colour-blocked neoprene. Image: Cynthia Rowley.

The new pattern also includes a button-front maxi dress with ruffle sleeves. Add bodice tucks and you have the Nairobi kaftan — Rowley’s opening look for Spring 2017. The original caftan dress is 100% cotton.

Cynthia Rowley Spring 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: Vogue Runway.

Finally, a stealth bridal pattern: Very Easy Vogue V9373, a version of a Stella McCartney gown that was the first change of a newly minted duchess. (More at Vogue.)

V9373
Vogue 9373 after Stella McCartney (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Meghan Markle in Stella McCartney bridal, with Prince Harry, Windsor Castle, May 2018
The newly married Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, and Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex, leave Windsor Castle to attend an evening reception at Frogmore House, May 2018. Photo: Steve Parsons. Image: AFP/Getty via Vogue.

The bride’s silk crepe, open-backed gown was an advance look at the Stella McCartney Made With Love collection, which launched in autumn, 2018.

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Stella McCartney Made With Love bridal collection. Images: Stella McCartney.

Make in cruelty-free, sustainable fabrics for the authentic Stella McCartney touch.

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Stella McCartney Made With Love bridal collection. Images: Stella McCartney.