The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.
Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)
Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.
The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.
Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.
For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.
The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.
A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.
The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.
One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.
A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.
Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.
There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.
A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.
The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.
LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.
This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.
Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.
Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.
Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.
Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.
Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.
The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.
In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.
The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.
A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.
Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.
For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.
It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)
The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.
Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.
For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.
