Summer 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Detail, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Have you seen the new summer patterns?

For Summer, 2020, Rachel Comey covers the Vogue Patterns lookbook for the second season in a row.

Rachel Comey top and pants (V1704) on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020
V1704 by Rachel Comey. Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020. Image: Issuu.

Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.

Guinevere van Seenus photographed by Annie Powers in Rachel Comey Spring 2019
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020)
Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018 photographed by Gus Powell
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Gus Powell. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey
Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche is from Fall 2018, the same collection as Winter’s V1666 pantsuit. The runway version better shows the seaming detail:

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Fall 2018 collection. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1709 by Guy Laroche (2020)
Vogue 1709 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

From Badgley Mischka, a pattern for the Belcanto dress. The duo’s Spring 2018 collection was inspired by Capri.

Badgley Mischka Spring 2018
Badgley Mischka Spring 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Badgley Mischka lace-up broderie anglaise gown
Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.

Triple-tiered tassels not included.

Tassel detail, Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.
Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Belcanto dress. Image: McCall’s.

In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.

The Row Abel blouse
The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.

A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.

Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1701 after The Row's Abel blouse
Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.

For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 blue moiré faille jumpsuit
Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.
Vogue 1708 jumpsuit or romper pattern after Oscar de la Renta (2020)
Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.

It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)

A black jumpsuit in Cynthia Rowley's Spring 2020 collection
The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
Black D-ring Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit pattern S9151
Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.

Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.
Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.

For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Marquette sequin applique dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Spring 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Tatyana Cooper wears bodycon dress pattern V1674 on the cover of the Spring 2020 Vogue Patterns lookbook
Vogue Patterns lookbook for Spring 2020. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

It’s nearly the equinox: time for my Spring patterns report. As I mentioned back in December, I’ve been busy with other projects. I’m happy to share that my campaign to save Hanrahan’s, a historic Hamilton hotel turned tavern, was successful! (Read my latest op-ed | front page news | local news coverage.)

Huge thanks to now-retired columnist Paul Wilson, who first got the word out about this fascinating Edwardian hotel.

Recently, there’s also been some major pattern industry news. More on that in a moment — but first, a look at the first patterns of the decade.

Vogue’s second pattern by Richard René, the new designer for Laroche, is an oversized, colour-blocked pantsuit from the Spring 2019 collection.

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019 collection
Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
Guy Laroche colour block pantsuit pattern by Richard René - Vogue 1687
Vogue 1687 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Last June, British Vogue’s Venetia Scott paired the Laroche jacket with trousers by Issey Miyake.

Rianne van Rompaey in Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake, photographed by Theo Sion & styled by Venetia Scott, British Vogue, June 2019
Pieces by Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake in British Vogue, June 2019. Model: Rianne van Rompaey. Photo: Theo Sion. Editor: Venetia Scott. Image: Vogue UK.

From Rachel Comey, the Agave pantsuit, as worn for the Spring 2019 lookbook by Guinevere van Seenus.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019 – Agave jacket and Divide pant. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.
Rachel Comey Agave jacket and Divide trousers pattern V1688 as worn by Amber Mitchell
Vogue 1688 by Rachel Comey (2020) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The Divide pant also comes in cropped and colour-blocked versions, or embellished with sequins:

Rachel Comey Divide pant in black and white wool.
Rachel Comey Divide pant in black and white wool. Image: The Dresslyn.
Rachel Comey Divide pant in red wool with sequin embellishment.
Rachel Comey Divide pant in crimson red wool with sequin embellishment. Image: Moda Operandi.

Comey’s licensing with Vogue Patterns began in Spring, 2010. A decade later, the company finally gave the popular designer a catalogue cover.

V1688 by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Spring 2020. Model: Amber Mitchell. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

Last fall, Zandra Rhodes celebrated her jubilee with a retrospective and catalogue from Yale University Press, Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion.

Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion by Dennis Nothdruft with Zandra Rhodes and Iris Apfel, Yale 2019
Dennis Nothdruft, Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion (Yale University Press 2019) Image: Zandra Rhodes.

The new Zandra Rhodes pattern is a boho bias dress with contrast sleeve and hem flounces. Fine finishing details include narrow hems and a bias-bound neckline.

Zandra Rhodes dress pattern V1676
Vogue 1676 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

McCall’s has a fresh new logo for 2020, when the company celebrates its 150th anniversary. But thus far, no new designer patterns.

M8049
McCall’s Early Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.
M8089
McCall’s Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: McCall’s.

And this month, Britain’s IG Design Group Plc completed its acquisition of CSS Industries, the parent company of McCall’s and Simplicity. (Details at Design Group’s site and Business Wire.) CSS acquired The McCall Pattern Company in 2016 and Simplicity Creative Group in 2017.

Will Design Group revive Vogue Patterns Magazine, a storied publication that dates back a century, or divest the pattern side of the business entirely? Stay tuned for more coverage of McCall’s 150th and other milestones for 2020!

Guy Laroche Spring 2019 in Schön! magazine
Guy Laroche Spring 2019 in Schön! magazine. Model: Tetiuksha. Photo: Dylan Perlot. Editors: Sofia Giordano and Hugo Asensio. Image: Instagram.