Couturissime: The Mugler Connection

Alan Strutt, Yasmin Le Bon On Stage at the London Palladium, London, 1997; Evening Standard, October 31, 1997. Ensemble: Thierry Mugler, Chimera collection, haute couture fall/winter 1997-1998. Long sheath gown with scale-look body, feathers and horsehair embroidered with rhinestones, articulated golden bodice created in collaboration with Jean‑Jacques Urcun and Mr. Pearl.
Yasmin Le Bon in Mugler Fall 1997 couture. Photo © Alan Strutt. Image: Musée des beaux-arts de Montréal.

On now at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts: Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, another blockbuster curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the force behind the museum’s 2011 Gaultier show. (A previous Mugler show wrapped at FIDM last year. For more see Suzy Menkes’ interview.) The catalogue design is by Paprika, who also designed the Gaultier catalogue.

Thierry-Maxime Loriot, ed. Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 2019
Thierry-Maxime Loriot, ed., Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 2019) Design: Paprika. Image: Phaidon.

Mugler himself never signed with Paris Originals, but there are still some Vogue patterns with a connection to the designer. The Dutch-born Mei Xiao Zhou (who, like Mugler, is a former ballet dancer) was hired by Laroche after six years as Mugler’s assistant in the 1990s.

Karen Mulder wears Mugler Spring 1997 couture on the cover of George magazine, February 1997. Photo: Jean-Baptiste Mondino. Image: eBay.

Zhou designed two collections for Laroche in the early aughts, resulting in a handful of Vogue patterns, circa 2002. Even if the pattern envelopes downplay it, his designs for Laroche have a vampy futurism that gives them a Mugler-esque edge. For more see my post.

Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway. Images: firstVIEW.
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway. Images: firstVIEW.
Guy Laroche advertising campaign, Fall 2001.
Guy Laroche advertising campaign (Mei Xiao Zhou for Laroche), Fall 2001. Image: jalougallery.com.

VISIBLE feat. Paco Peralta

Sketch for V1602 by Paco Peralta ©2017. Courtesy Paco Peralta.

This month in Galicia, the late Paco Peralta is among the artists whose work is on view in Visible (Visibility), a Pride Month exhibit curated by the photographer Daniel Agra.

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Este año se cumplen los 50 años de lucha por los derechos LGBTQ + . Desde spazo y CPSspazo queremos hacer desde el arte nuestro particular homenaje este mes de Junio, con nuestra mini colectiva “Visible” en las que participan artistas y defensores de los derechos LGBTQ +. Todo empezó el 28 de junio de 1969 en la ciudad de Nueva York, con el allanamiento por parte de la policía del Stonewall Inn, uno de los bares frecuentados por la comunidad LGBTQ +, que lejos de rendirse, un grupo de personas valientes se puso de pie. Esto generó cinco noches de protestas por los derechos LGBTQ +, fue la chispa que puso en marcha estos 50 años de Orgullo. Después de esto incidentes, las organizaciones de derechos LGBTQ + comenzaron a surgir en los Estados Unidos y en todo el mundo. El 27 y 28 de junio de 1970 en Nueva York, Los Ángeles, San Francisco y Chicago, fueron los primeros desfiles del Orgullo que conmemoraban a Stonewall Inn. En estos 50 años del movimiento de derechos LGBTQ +, ha habido muchos éxitos, pero queda mucho camino por recorrer, pero el legado de Stonewall vive cada día del año y en especial en cada marcha del Orgullo. . A Flaira [] A Coruña [] Pintora Multidisciplinar Paco Peralta [] Barcelona [] Modista Alta Costura – Designer Vogue Patterns De Rey [] A Coruña [] Escritor – Poeta Mabi Cerdán [] Navarra [] Pintora y Activista Pro Derechos Chelo Facal [] A Coruña [] Pintora y Escultora Lázaro Louzao [] A Coruña [] Director de Cine – Fotógrafo Javi Pita [] A Coruña [] Artista Multidisciplinar Martínez [] A Coruña [] Pintora – Restauradora – Encuadernadora – Técnico en Dorado Clara Lelarge [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafa Ana Soto [] A Coruña [] Ilustradora – Pintora Daniel Agra [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafo Estáis invitados… Os esperamos el Viernes día 7 a las 20.00 !!! . #espacio #spazovisible #setumismo #setumisma #talycomoeres #expositivo #expresiones #lenguajes #pensamientos #artgallery #artecontemporaneo #contemporaryart #contemporaryartist #coleccionistasdearte #artcollector #exhibition #exposicion #galeria #arte #coruna #coruña #acoruña #galicia #galiza #spazospazo

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Agra was a close friend of Paco Peralta. For the exhibit, he has included the designer’s original sample garments for Vogue 1602, a sculpted top and skirt in sequinned tweed. Peralta’s originals were worn by Nadja Giramata for last year’s Winter/Holiday release.

Nadja Giramata in an ensemble by Paco Peralta on view at CPS Spazo gallery, Galicia. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

Behind the scenes note: makeup was by Joseph Boggess / YSL Beauty. Peralta was a great collector of Yves Saint Laurent.

A Vogue pattern by Paco Peralta will remain on permanent exhibit at the Galician gallery.

Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Update: Paco’s friend Tany has also posted about the exhibit.

Visible is at A Coruña’s CPS spazo gallery through the month of June.

Visible, Friday, June 7th to Friday, June 28th, 2019

CPS spazo, Avda Mallos, 1, 15007 A Coruña, Galicia, Spain

http://www.spazo.es/

Alexander McQueen 50

Vanitas Skull by Gary James McQueen poster for the 2018 McQueen documentary - "The fearless, rebellious and extraordinary life of Alexander McQueen"
Poster for Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui’s McQueen (2018) Vanitas Skull by Gary James McQueen. Photo: Dan Tobin Smith ©Lionsgate.

Alexander McQueen would have been 50 today.

As many of you know, I started this blog with posts on Alexander McQueen, as a way to commemorate his work. His birthday is a natural time to revisit and reflect on his legacy. Since my last roundup in 2015, for the London version of Savage Beauty, I’ve posted about the designer’s 1998 Blade Runner collection. You’ll also find extensive updates to my inaugural McQueen for Givenchy series: as part of my recent blog redesign, I added additional and improved images from runway, advertising, and editorial.

In memoriam: Karl Lagerfeld

Esther de Jong in Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld, Fall 1997. Photo: Karl Lagerfeld. Editor: Amanda Harlech?
Esther de Jong in Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld, Fall 1997. Photo: Karl Lagerfeld. Image: jalougallery.

Farewell to Karl Lagerfeld. Prolific, influential, and above all, iconic, the designer — who had a lifetime contract with Chanel — was working to the last.

Read the couturier’s Vogue obituary. (Tim Blanks; German Vogue.)

Free Designer Pattern: Iris van Herpen Dress

Hacking Infity - Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Photo: Frederik Heyman
Hacking Infinity – Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Model: Iekeliene Stange. Photo: Frederik Heyman. Image: Iris van Herpen.

SHOWstudio’s latest Design Download is a dress by Dutch wunderkind Iris van Herpen.

Iris van Herpen dress photographed by Thomas Alexander for SHOWstudio, 2018
Iris van Herpen’s Hacking Infinity dress. Model: Bethany Sophara Robbins. Photo: Thomas Alexander. Image: SHOWstudio.
Iris van Herpen dress photographed by Thomas Alexander for SHOWstudio, 2018
Iris van Herpen dress, FW15 rtw. Model: Bethany Sophara Robbins. Photo: Thomas Alexander. Image: SHOWstudio.

The sheath dress is from Hacking Infinity, Iris van Herpen’s Fall 2015 ready-to-wear collection, which explored the idea of terraforming. (Read more at the designer’s site, or see Suzy Menkes on her 2015 studio visit.) The collection’s leather and 3D-printed shoes are by Noritaka Tatehana.

Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 rtw look 12 - SHOWstudio design download
Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Photo: Kim Weston Arnold. Image: Vogue Runway.
Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 ready-to-wear. Image: firstVIEW.

Science, technology, and science fiction are strong influences for Van Herpen, and Vogue’s reviewer cited Paul Verhoeven’s Total Recall as an intro to the terraforming concept. Several looks referenced the stillsuits from David Lynch’s Dune.

Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW
Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Photos: Team Peter Stigter. Images: Iris van Herpen.
Hacking Infity - Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Photo: Frederik Heyman
Hacking Infinity – Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Model: Iekeliene Stange. Photo: Frederik Heyman. Image: Iris van Herpen.
Chani (Sean Young) in David Lynch’s Dune (1984) Costume design: Bob Ringwood. Image: Pinterest.

The plissé material, seen in the SHOWstudio piece, appeared both as one element in a mix, and for entire garments in black and bronze.

Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Images: firstVIEW.

For Fall 2015, Van Herpen developed a fine, metallic fabric woven from silk and stainless steel. The translucent silver material was coaxed into “a sheen of nebula-like colors” with heat and hand-burnishing. Plisséed and pleated into circular forms, it evoked planetary bodies and infinity.

Detail backstage at Iris van Herpen's Fall 2015 show
Detail backstage at Iris van Herpen’s Fall 2015 show. Photo: Morgan O’Donovan. Image: Facebook.
Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW
Iris van Herpen Fall 2015 RTW. Photos: Team Peter Stigter. Images: Iris van Herpen.
Hacking Infinity FW15 Iris van Herpen dress photographed by Juergen Teller
Iris van Herpen dress in T Magazine, April 2015. Photo: Juergen Teller. Image: Iris van Herpen.

The pattern download comes in A4 sheets, with a test line to check the scale.

Iris van Herpen SHOWstudio dress pattern diagram
Iris van Herpen dress pattern diagram. Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the dress pattern (34 pieces)

Size: 38

Notes: Prints on 100 A4 sheets. Plissé panels are hand-sewn to base dress.

Fabric recommendations: Plissé panels: plissé or printed fabric on a cotton base fabric. Stretch fabric is recommended for the skirt. Straps & facings: silk, non-stretch fusible interfacing. Lining: silk or cupro.

Notions: Back zipper.

The competition is still open. Will you be entering?

Grunge Again

Lady Gaga photographed by Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin (Lobster Eye) in Marc Jacobs' grunge reissue, Elle, November 2018. Stylist: Nicola Formichetti.
Lady Gaga in Marc Jacobs’ grunge reissue, Elle, November 2018. Photo: Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin. Editor: Nicola Formichetti. Image: Marc Jacobs via Twitter.

Grunge is back. Marc Jacobs has reissued looks from his Spring 1993 “grunge” collection for Perry Ellis as Redux Grunge.

Grunge Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs - Gladys Perint Palmer illustration in L'Officiel, February 1993
Illustration by Gladys Perint Palmer in L’Officiel, February 1993. Image: editionsjalou.com.

Juergen Teller’s ad campaign shows Jacobs’ iconic grunge pieces, resurrected from vintage and available exclusively from the designer’s website.

Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge advertising campaign by Juergen Teller
Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge campaign by Juergen Teller. Image: Marc Jacobs.

I wrote about Vogue’s two grunge Perry Ellis patterns back in 2013, as part of my series on early Marc Jacobs.

Grunge - Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis - two vintage '90s sewing patterns + runway photos

Now that Vogue has posted the entire collection online, we can ID the other dress. The button-front slip dress was originally worn layered, Seattle-style.

look 4 Nadja Auermann in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs
Nadja Auermann in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.
Naomi Campbell in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs look 5
Naomi Campbell in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.

None of the three pattern looks is part of the reissue, but the short version of the maxi dress—worn by Carla Bruni in 1992—can be seen on Lili Sumner in Teller’s campaign. (There’s also a new, flower chain print version of the ’90s floral dress.) As the web store notes, the dress was inspired by 1930s nightgowns. Just shorten V1304 to sew the look.

Carla Bruni in Perry Ellis Spring 1993 by Marc Jacobs. Image: Vogue Runway.
Lili Sumner in Marc Jacob's Redux Grunge collection
Lili Sumner in Marc Jacob’s Redux Grunge collection. Photo: Juergen Teller. Image: Marc Jacobs via Twitter.