Free Designer Pattern: McQueen Dress

Akuac Thiep photographed by Nick Knight in Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton
Akuac Thiep in Alexander McQueen SS 2020 by Sarah Burton. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

In memory of Paco Peralta.

SHOWstudio’s latest Design Download is an Alexander McQueen dress.

Back view: Akuac Thiep photographed by Nick Knight in Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton
Akuac Thiep in Alexander McQueen SS 2020 by Sarah Burton. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

A current-season design, it was the opening look in Sarah Burton’s Spring 2020 collection for McQueen.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Vilma Sjoberg. Image: Vogue Runway.
Detail, Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton
Detail, Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Image: Vogue Runway.

This romantic collection drew comparisons with the couture, featuring reworked old patterns and past-season fabrics, as well as Irish linens, damask or beetled, fine wool suiting from the north of England, and hand embroidery worked by the entire McQueen studio.

“I love the idea of people having the time to make things together, the time to meet and talk together, the time to reconnect to the world.” – Sarah Burton

The dress re-envisions its show-opening counterpart in Alexander McQueen’s Eshu, named for the Yoruba trickster god and presented 20 years ago in a disused Hitchcock studio. (See Suzy Menkes, “London Crowns Its Fashion Kings,” and Savage Beauty.) As SHOWstudio notes, Burton’s “articulated puff-sleeve dress [is] a reimagining of the Autumn/Winter 2000 Eshu dress, originally crafted in calico with a focus on the silhouette.”

Alexander McQueen Fall 2000 - Eshu
Alexander McQueen Fall 2000 (Eshu). Image: Vogue Runway.

Steven Klein photographed Björk in a denim variation for Vogue’s September issue:

"A Brave New Björk," Vogue September issue 2000
Björk in a distressed denim dress from Eshu, Alexander McQueen FW 2000, Vogue, September 2000. Photo: Steven Klein. Editor: Phyllis Posnick. Image: bjork.fr.

In the same issue, the designer portfolio opens with a group portrait of McQueen and his team for Eshu, including model Liberty Ross, Isabella Blow, jeweller Shaun Leane, and the young Sarah Burton.

"How Many People Does It Take to Design a Dress?" Alexander McQueen and team, with Sarah Burton, near right, and Liberty Ross and Isabella Blow in looks from the Eshu collection, photographed by Annie Leibovitz. Vogue, September 2000
Alexander McQueen and team, with Sarah Burton at near right, Vogue, September 2000. Photo: Annie Leibovitz. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue Archive.

Burton’s dress makes repeated appearances in the Spring 2020 campaign:

Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 ad campaign. Model: Felice Noordhoff. Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth. Art direction: M/M (Paris). Image: Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 ad campaign. Model: Vivien Solari. Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth. Art direction: M/M (Paris). Image: Alexander McQueen.

Also worn by Imaan Hammam in Masha Vasyukova’s campaign video (music by Isobel Waller-Bridge):

The pattern download comes in A4 sheets, with a test line to check the scale.

Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the dress pattern (18 pieces)

Size: Sample size. Update: Model Akuac Thiep is wearing the sample size. She is 5’10” and wears a size 8/36. (34″ bust | 25″ waist | 35″ hip) Source: Nevs Models.

Notes: Prints on 220 A4 sheets.

Notions: Back zipper.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 campaign
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 ad campaign. Model: Vivien Solari. Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth. Art direction: M/M (Paris). Image: Alexander McQueen.
With thanks to Emily Knight.

Fall 2019 Postscript (after Balenciaga)

Fall 2018 Balenciaga campaign image by Charlie White
Fall 2018 Balenciaga campaign image by Charlie White. Models: Eliza Douglas and Martina Almquist. Image: Fashion Gone Rogue.

Last week, it was announced that Demna Gvasalia is leaving Vetements, the label he founded in 2014. Vetements will continue under his brother, CEO Guram Gvasalia; the Georgian designer remains creative director of Balenciaga.

Martina Almquist in Balenciaga's Pre-Fall 2018 ad campaign photographed by Ilya Lipkin
Martina Almquist in Balenciaga’s Pre-Fall 2018 ad campaign. Photo: Ilya Lipkin. Editor: Lotta Volkova. Image: Balenciaga.

Left out of my Fall Vogues report were two Balenciaga adaptations.

Vogue 1638 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia (2019)
Vogue 1638 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia (2019) Image: McCall’s.

The godet draped skirt is a permanent design, seen variously in different wool checks with a partial raw edge, and in current-season stretch wool twill.

Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia. Image: Vogue Runway.

As the check reveals, the godet is true bias at the inner edges. (Also at Farfetch.)

Balenciaga asymmetric check skirt by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga asymmetric check skirt by Demna Gvasalia. Image: net-a-porter.
Balenciaga asymmetric Prince of Wales check skirt by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga asymmetric Prince of Wales check skirt by Demna Gvasalia. Image: Matches Fashion.

Here’s a fuchsia version from Pre-Fall 2019:

Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2019 by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2019 by Demna Gvasalia. Image: Vogue Runway.

The stretch wool iteration was shown with a fluid silk blouse. (Also at Farfetch and net-a-porter.)

Balenciaga Godet Draped Skirt in rose bubble gum twill
Balenciaga Vareuse logo blouse and godet draped skirt in rose bubble gum twill. Image: Balenciaga.

Vogue’s second Balenciaga-inspired design can be shortened from dress to top. (View A, not photographed.)

Vogue 1632 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia
Vogue 1632 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia (2019) Image: McCall’s.

This one’s adapted from Balenciaga Fall 2018.

Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia - draped top in stretch crushed velvet
Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia. Model: Amanda Hermansson. Image: Vogue Runway.
Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia - draped mini dress in stretch velvet
Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia. Model: Sunniva Vaatevik. Image: Vogue Runway.

According to the Balenciaga webstore, the original was inspired by ice-skating. For knit fabrics with a lot of stretch.

Draped velvet dress by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga
Draped velvet dress by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. Image: Browns.

Couturissime: The Mugler Connection

Alan Strutt, Yasmin Le Bon On Stage at the London Palladium, London, 1997; Evening Standard, October 31, 1997. Ensemble: Thierry Mugler, Chimera collection, haute couture fall/winter 1997-1998. Long sheath gown with scale-look body, feathers and horsehair embroidered with rhinestones, articulated golden bodice created in collaboration with Jean‑Jacques Urcun and Mr. Pearl.
Yasmin Le Bon in Mugler Fall 1997 couture. Photo © Alan Strutt. Image: Musée des beaux-arts de Montréal.

On now at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts: Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, another blockbuster curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the force behind the museum’s 2011 Gaultier show. (A previous Mugler show wrapped at FIDM last year. For more see Suzy Menkes’ interview.) The catalogue design is by Paprika, who also designed the Gaultier catalogue.

Thierry-Maxime Loriot, ed. Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 2019
Thierry-Maxime Loriot, ed., Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 2019) Design: Paprika. Image: Phaidon.

Mugler himself never signed with Paris Originals, but there are still some Vogue patterns with a connection to the designer. The Dutch-born Mei Xiao Zhou (who, like Mugler, is a former ballet dancer) was hired by Laroche after six years as Mugler’s assistant in the 1990s.

Karen Mulder wears Mugler Spring 1997 couture on the cover of George magazine, February 1997. Photo: Jean-Baptiste Mondino. Image: eBay.

Zhou designed two collections for Laroche in the early aughts, resulting in a handful of Vogue patterns, circa 2002. Even if the pattern envelopes downplay it, his designs for Laroche have a vampy futurism that gives them a Mugler-esque edge. For more see my post.

Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway. Images: firstVIEW.
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway. Images: firstVIEW.
Guy Laroche advertising campaign, Fall 2001.
Guy Laroche advertising campaign (Mei Xiao Zhou for Laroche), Fall 2001. Image: jalougallery.com.

VISIBLE feat. Paco Peralta

Sketch for V1602 by Paco Peralta ©2017. Courtesy Paco Peralta.

This month in Galicia, the late Paco Peralta is among the artists whose work is on view in Visible (Visibility), a Pride Month exhibit curated by the photographer Daniel Agra.

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Este año se cumplen los 50 años de lucha por los derechos LGBTQ + . Desde spazo y CPSspazo queremos hacer desde el arte nuestro particular homenaje este mes de Junio, con nuestra mini colectiva “Visible” en las que participan artistas y defensores de los derechos LGBTQ +. Todo empezó el 28 de junio de 1969 en la ciudad de Nueva York, con el allanamiento por parte de la policía del Stonewall Inn, uno de los bares frecuentados por la comunidad LGBTQ +, que lejos de rendirse, un grupo de personas valientes se puso de pie. Esto generó cinco noches de protestas por los derechos LGBTQ +, fue la chispa que puso en marcha estos 50 años de Orgullo. Después de esto incidentes, las organizaciones de derechos LGBTQ + comenzaron a surgir en los Estados Unidos y en todo el mundo. El 27 y 28 de junio de 1970 en Nueva York, Los Ángeles, San Francisco y Chicago, fueron los primeros desfiles del Orgullo que conmemoraban a Stonewall Inn. En estos 50 años del movimiento de derechos LGBTQ +, ha habido muchos éxitos, pero queda mucho camino por recorrer, pero el legado de Stonewall vive cada día del año y en especial en cada marcha del Orgullo. . A Flaira [] A Coruña [] Pintora Multidisciplinar Paco Peralta [] Barcelona [] Modista Alta Costura – Designer Vogue Patterns De Rey [] A Coruña [] Escritor – Poeta Mabi Cerdán [] Navarra [] Pintora y Activista Pro Derechos Chelo Facal [] A Coruña [] Pintora y Escultora Lázaro Louzao [] A Coruña [] Director de Cine – Fotógrafo Javi Pita [] A Coruña [] Artista Multidisciplinar Martínez [] A Coruña [] Pintora – Restauradora – Encuadernadora – Técnico en Dorado Clara Lelarge [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafa Ana Soto [] A Coruña [] Ilustradora – Pintora Daniel Agra [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafo Estáis invitados… Os esperamos el Viernes día 7 a las 20.00 !!! . #espacio #spazovisible #setumismo #setumisma #talycomoeres #expositivo #expresiones #lenguajes #pensamientos #artgallery #artecontemporaneo #contemporaryart #contemporaryartist #coleccionistasdearte #artcollector #exhibition #exposicion #galeria #arte #coruna #coruña #acoruña #galicia #galiza #spazospazo

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Agra was a close friend of Paco Peralta. For the exhibit, he has included the designer’s original sample garments for Vogue 1602, a sculpted top and skirt in sequinned tweed. Peralta’s originals were worn by Nadja Giramata for last year’s Winter/Holiday release.

Nadja Giramata in an ensemble by Paco Peralta on view at CPS Spazo gallery, Galicia. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

Behind the scenes note: makeup was by Joseph Boggess / YSL Beauty. Peralta was a great collector of Yves Saint Laurent.

A Vogue pattern by Paco Peralta will remain on permanent exhibit at the Galician gallery.

Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Update: Paco’s friend Tany has also posted about the exhibit.

Visible is at A Coruña’s CPS spazo gallery through the month of June.

Visible, Friday, June 7th to Friday, June 28th, 2019

CPS spazo, Avda Mallos, 1, 15007 A Coruña, Galicia, Spain

http://www.spazo.es/

Alexander McQueen 50

Vanitas Skull by Gary James McQueen poster for the 2018 McQueen documentary - "The fearless, rebellious and extraordinary life of Alexander McQueen"
Poster for Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui’s McQueen (2018) Vanitas Skull by Gary James McQueen. Photo: Dan Tobin Smith ©Lionsgate.

Alexander McQueen would have been 50 today.

As many of you know, I started this blog with posts on Alexander McQueen, as a way to commemorate his work. His birthday is a natural time to revisit and reflect on his legacy. Since my last roundup in 2015, for the London version of Savage Beauty, I’ve posted about the designer’s 1998 Blade Runner collection. You’ll also find extensive updates to my inaugural McQueen for Givenchy series: as part of my recent blog redesign, I added additional and improved images from runway, advertising, and editorial.

In memoriam: Karl Lagerfeld

Esther de Jong in Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld, Fall 1997. Photo: Karl Lagerfeld. Editor: Amanda Harlech?
Esther de Jong in Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld, Fall 1997. Photo: Karl Lagerfeld. Image: jalougallery.

Farewell to Karl Lagerfeld. Prolific, influential, and above all, iconic, the designer — who had a lifetime contract with Chanel — was working to the last.

Read the couturier’s Vogue obituary. (Tim Blanks; German Vogue.)