Fall 2019 Postscript (after Balenciaga)

Fall 2018 Balenciaga campaign image by Charlie White
Fall 2018 Balenciaga campaign image by Charlie White. Models: Eliza Douglas and Martina Almquist. Image: Fashion Gone Rogue.

Last week, it was announced that Demna Gvasalia is leaving Vetements, the label he founded in 2014. Vetements will continue under his brother, CEO Guram Gvasalia; the Georgian designer remains creative director of Balenciaga.

Martina Almquist in Balenciaga's Pre-Fall 2018 ad campaign photographed by Ilya Lipkin
Martina Almquist in Balenciaga’s Pre-Fall 2018 ad campaign. Photo: Ilya Lipkin. Editor: Lotta Volkova. Image: Balenciaga.

Left out of my Fall Vogues report were two Balenciaga adaptations.

Vogue 1638 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia (2019)
Vogue 1638 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia (2019) Image: McCall’s.

The godet draped skirt is a permanent design, seen variously in different wool checks with a partial raw edge, and in current-season stretch wool twill.

Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia. Image: Vogue Runway.

As the check reveals, the godet is true bias at the inner edges. (Also at Farfetch.)

Balenciaga asymmetric check skirt by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga asymmetric check skirt by Demna Gvasalia. Image: net-a-porter.
Balenciaga asymmetric Prince of Wales check skirt by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga asymmetric Prince of Wales check skirt by Demna Gvasalia. Image: Matches Fashion.

Here’s a fuchsia version from Pre-Fall 2019:

Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2019 by Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2019 by Demna Gvasalia. Image: Vogue Runway.

The stretch wool iteration was shown with a fluid silk blouse. (Also at Farfetch and net-a-porter.)

Balenciaga Godet Draped Skirt in rose bubble gum twill
Balenciaga Vareuse logo blouse and godet draped skirt in rose bubble gum twill. Image: Balenciaga.

Vogue’s second Balenciaga-inspired design can be shortened from dress to top. (View A, not photographed.)

Vogue 1632 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia
Vogue 1632 after Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia (2019) Image: McCall’s.

This one’s adapted from Balenciaga Fall 2018.

Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia - draped top in stretch crushed velvet
Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia. Model: Amanda Hermansson. Image: Vogue Runway.
Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia - draped mini dress in stretch velvet
Balenciaga Fall 2018 by Demna Gvasalia. Model: Sunniva Vaatevik. Image: Vogue Runway.

According to the Balenciaga webstore, the original was inspired by ice-skating. For knit fabrics with a lot of stretch.

Draped velvet dress by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga
Draped velvet dress by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. Image: Browns.

Couturissime: The Mugler Connection

Alan Strutt, Yasmin Le Bon On Stage at the London Palladium, London, 1997; Evening Standard, October 31, 1997. Ensemble: Thierry Mugler, Chimera collection, haute couture fall/winter 1997-1998. Long sheath gown with scale-look body, feathers and horsehair embroidered with rhinestones, articulated golden bodice created in collaboration with Jean‑Jacques Urcun and Mr. Pearl.
Yasmin Le Bon in Mugler Fall 1997 couture. Photo © Alan Strutt. Image: Musée des beaux-arts de Montréal.

On now at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts: Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, another blockbuster curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the force behind the museum’s 2011 Gaultier show. (A previous Mugler show wrapped at FIDM last year. For more see Suzy Menkes’ interview.) The catalogue design is by Paprika, who also designed the Gaultier catalogue.

Thierry-Maxime Loriot, ed. Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 2019
Thierry-Maxime Loriot, ed., Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 2019) Design: Paprika. Image: Phaidon.

Mugler himself never signed with Paris Originals, but there are still some Vogue patterns with a connection to the designer. The Dutch-born Mei Xiao Zhou (who, like Mugler, is a former ballet dancer) was hired by Laroche after six years as Mugler’s assistant in the 1990s.

Karen Mulder wears Mugler Spring 1997 couture on the cover of George magazine, February 1997. Photo: Jean-Baptiste Mondino. Image: eBay.

Zhou designed two collections for Laroche in the early aughts, resulting in a handful of Vogue patterns, circa 2002. Even if the pattern envelopes downplay it, his designs for Laroche have a vampy futurism that gives them a Mugler-esque edge. For more see my post.

Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway. Images: firstVIEW.
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway
Mei Xiao Zhou for Guy Laroche Fall 2001 runway. Images: firstVIEW.
Guy Laroche advertising campaign, Fall 2001.
Guy Laroche advertising campaign (Mei Xiao Zhou for Laroche), Fall 2001. Image: jalougallery.com.