Category: 2000s

1990s, 2000s, Current trends

Wings Not Included: Faerie Costuming

by Sarah Sheehan4 Comments on Wings Not Included: Faerie Costuming
Detail, Simplicity 8629 by Firefly Path. Image: Simplicity.

This Halloween, a look at faerie costumes.

Jareth’s fairy ball in Labyrinth (1986) Costume design: Ellis Flyte and Brian Froud. Image: The Atlantic / TriStar Pictures.

Part Tinkerbell, part Titania, today’s fairy look can be traced back to Brian Froud and Alan Lee’s 1978 book, Faeries. Froud collaborated on the costumes for Jim Henson’s cult fantasy, Labyrinth (1986), while Lee became best known for his conceptual design work on the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

The year before Labyrinth, Ridley Scott’s Legend (1985) introduced the Tinkerbell-like Oona. Costume designer Charles Knode had previously worked with Scott on Blade Runner.

Annabelle Lanyon as Oona in LEGEND (1985)
Oona (Annabelle Lanyon) in Legend (1985) Costume design: Charles Knode. Image: Pinterest.

The ’90s soon brought Steven Spielberg’s Hook (1991), with Julia Roberts as Tinkerbell. In this Dream-inspired couture editorial by Koto Bolofo, the opening image channels Peter Pan — or is it Puck, with a McQueen-clad Titania?

At the Jardins de Giverny in Atelier Versace and Givenchy haute couture by Alexander McQueen, L’Officiel, September 1998. Photo: Koto Bolofo. Editor: Guylaine Tilleau. Image: jalougallery.

At the end of the decade, Michael Hoffman’s big-screen version of A Midsummer Night’s Dream (1999) — the first in over sixty years — featured costumes by the award-winning Gabriella Pescucci (The Adventures of Baron Munchausen, The Age of Innocence).

Michelle Pfeiffer as Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream (1999) Costume design: Gabriella Pescucci. Image: IMDb.

Froud and Lee’s Faeries was reissued for its 25th anniversary in 2002, the same year as Koto Bolofo’s “Tinker Belle’s Forest” editorial in Vogue Nippon.

“Tinker Belle’s Forest,” Vogue Nippon, March 2002. Photo: Koto Bolofo. Editor: Nikki Brewster.
Vogue Nippon, March 2002. Photo: Koto Bolofo. Editor: Nikki Brewster.

Founded in 2005, Faerie Magazine recently featured Los Angeles’ Firefly Path on the cover. (Free download here.)

Faerie Magazine issue 39 - summer 2017
Firefly Path with Fancy Fairy Wings on the cover of Faerie Magazine, Summer 2017. Photo: Ether and Smith (Ellen McGowan). Image: Enchanted Living.

In the new millennium, fairies became an otherworldly ingredient in the urban fantasy subgenre. Holly Black’s children’s series saw a film adaptation as The Spiderwick Chronicles (2008). HBO’s True Blood introduced “the Fae” a few seasons into the show, with costume designer Audrey Fisher dressing her fairies — Claudine, Maurella, even Queen Mab — in ethereal pieces from designers like LA’s Sue Wong and Marianna Harutunian.

A glimpse of Claudine (Lara Pulver) in True Blood, season 3 (2010) Costume design: Audrey Fisher. Image: HBO.
s3 e12
Lara Pulver as Claudine in True Blood, season 3 (2010) Costume design: Audrey Fisher. Image: IMDb.
"Soul of Fire" (s4 e11, 2011)
Maurella (Kristina Anapau) wears Sue Wong and Marianna Harutunian in True Blood, season 4 (2011) Costume design: Audrey Fisher. Image: Marianna Harutunian on Etsy.

In 2015, the New York Times’ T magazine featured Faerie Magazine in its Holiday issue:

"The Faerie Fantasy," T magazine, Holiday 2015
“The Faerie Fantasy,” T magazine, Holiday 2015. Photos: Marko Metzinger, Lynn Theisen. Image: The New York Times.

The next spring saw a new BBC production of Shakespeare’s Dream, adapted by Russell T Davies and with costumes by Ray Holman (Torchwood, Fleabag).

Maxine Peake as Titania in A Midsummer Night's Dream
Maxine Peake as Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream (2016) Costume design: Ray Holman. Image: BBC.

And now the Seelies, as the Fair Folk are known in Shadowhunters, have their own spinoff trilogy.

The Fair Folk (season 2 e14)
Lola Flanery as the Seelie Queen in Shadowhunters, season 2 (2017) Costume design: Shelley Mansell. Image: fandom.

Fairies have long been a fancy-dress standby, but a more recent trend is fairy costume patterns for adults. This empire maxi dress from Andrea Schewe adds wings, cape, and a crown for tissue lamé.

Simplicity 9454 by Andrea Schewe (2000) Image: Etsy.

Disco fairy rings are in store with this Simplicity design from the mid-aughts. From Elaine Heigl Designs, it has a ruffled skirt, corset, and top for sheer knits. Wings not included.

Simplicity 4902 by Elaine Heigl Designs (2004) Image: Etsy.

Also from Elaine Heigl, this fairy costume has several variations, including trousers. (“Purchased Wings.”)

Simplicity 3632 by Elaine Heigl Designs (2007) Image: Etsy.

In the teens, Cosplay by McCall’s released patterns for a horned headdress, and DIY fairy wings with matching hat and stockings — this last by cosplayer Becka Noel.

M2101 Hornery (2017) Image: Cosplay by McCall’s.
Cosplay by McCall's M2104 - Ala Glow by Becka Noel (2017)
M2104 Ala Glow by Becka Noel (2017) Image: Cosplay by McCall’s.

Simplicity has licensed several Firefly Path designs, including this highly detailed fairy princess ensemble. For your faerie wedding, designer JoEllen Elam Conway also sells Firefly Path bridal gowns and capes in her Etsy shop.

Firefly Path pattern Simplicity 8629 (2017)
Simplicity 8629 by Firefly Path (2017) Image: Simplicity.

How on-trend is faerie dressing? Out this month, Vogue’s latest book is Fantasy & Fashion.

Happy Halloween!

Saoirse Ronan in Chanel bridal couture by Karl Lagerfeld, photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue, December 2011
Saoirse Ronan wears Chanel couture on the cover of Vogue: Fantasy & Fashion (Abrams 2020). Photo: Steven Meisel. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue.com.
2000s, The pattern business

Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

by Sarah Sheehan5 Comments on Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights
Detail, Badgley Mischka Fall 2019 runway presentation. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.

The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.

Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)

Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.

Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.

Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Guy Laroche FW19 campaign
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.
Vogue 1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020)
V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.

A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.

The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.

Jaunt coat
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.
Rachel Comey Jaunt coat pattern Vogue 1711 (2020)
V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.
Rachel Comey Alter pants pattern Vogue 1729 (2020)
V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.

One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.

A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.
Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.
Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1717 after Gucci (2020)
V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)

Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty fragrance campaign, 2019
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.
Navy belted wool and silk blend cady jumpsuit
Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Ecru belted wool and silk-blend cady playsuit
Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1719 jumpsuit pattern after Gucci (2020)
V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.

A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.
Veronika Kunz by fashion photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
Isabel Marant Resort 2020
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.

LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.
A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.
V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.

This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.

Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.
V1725 (2020)
V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020)
V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.

Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.