Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Detail, Badgley Mischka Fall 2019 runway presentation. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.

The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.

Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)

Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.

Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.

Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Guy Laroche FW19 campaign
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.
Vogue 1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020)
V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.

A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.

The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.

Jaunt coat
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.
Rachel Comey Jaunt coat pattern Vogue 1711 (2020)
V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.
Rachel Comey Alter pants pattern Vogue 1729 (2020)
V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.

One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.

A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.
Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.
Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1717 after Gucci (2020)
V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)

Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty fragrance campaign, 2019
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.
Navy belted wool and silk blend cady jumpsuit
Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Ecru belted wool and silk-blend cady playsuit
Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1719 jumpsuit pattern after Gucci (2020)
V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.

A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.
Veronika Kunz by fashion photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
Isabel Marant Resort 2020
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.

LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.
A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.
V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.

This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.

Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.
V1725 (2020)
V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020)
V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.

Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.

About Time: Fashion and Duration

Iris van Herpen (Dutch, born 1984). Dress, fall/winter 2012–13 haute couture. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Iris van Herpen, in honor of Harold Koda, 2016 (2016.185). Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978). Ball Gown, 1951. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Coulson, 1964 (2009.300.1311). Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
Dresses by Iris van Herpen and Charles James, 2012 and 1951. Photos © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Costume Institute.

The PatternVault blog turns nine today! It’s been a pleasure writing about vintage fashion for you, for almost a decade.

Speaking of the passage of time, this year’s major Costume Institute show, About Time: Fashion and Duration, also considers questions of style and temporality.

Planned to mark the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 150th anniversary, the spring-summer exhibit has been postponed to open on October 29, 2020 (closing February 7, 2021). Luckily, thanks to Yale University Press, the exhibition catalogue is available to purchase, or preview online.

Book cover for About Time: Fashion & Duration by Andrew Bolton, 2020
Andrew Bolton, About Time: Fashion & Duration (Metropolitan Museum of Art 2020) Design: Joseph Logan and Anamaria Morris. Image: Yale / Google Books.

The preview — and exquisite black-and-white photography by Nicholas Alan Cope — gives a taste of the garments selected for the now-postponed exhibition. Curator Andrew Bolton pairs Drecoll with Rick Owens, and a WW1 Red Cross uniform with current-season Margiela by Galliano.

Dinner dress by Christoph Drecoll, ca. 1912. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
Dinner dress by Christoph Drecoll, ca. 1912. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Yale / Google Books.
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2007-8. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2007-8. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Yale / Google Books.
American Red Cross uniform, 1918. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
American Red Cross uniform, 1918. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Yale / Google Books.
John Galliano for Martin Margiela Spring 2020. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
John Galliano for Martin Margiela Spring 2020. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Yale / Google Books.

As I noted on Twitter, About Time also includes a look at the McQueen dress that is SHOWstudio’s latest Design Download.

Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2020. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2020. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Yale / Google Books.
Detail, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2020. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope
Detail, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2020. Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope. Image: Yale / Google Books.

Happy blogiversary to me, and happy sesquicentennial to the Met!