Fall 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr. Image: Vogue Runway.

This season, Vogue patterns have a new format. For Fall 2019, illustrations are out, and photography is in, even for the company’s house line. Also consolidated is the line branding and numbering, which used to differ between licensed and internal designs. Paris Originals, Designer Originals, even Vogue designer knockoffs — they all have the same new look.

Vogue Patterns Fall 2019 lookbook cover with V1633 dress
Vogue Patterns Fall 2019 lookbook. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: Issuu.

Autumn means outerwear, and Laroche comes through with a chic trench coat with interesting details: a storm flap, arm band, and oversized belt carriers.

Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche FW 2017 trench coat pattern V1650
Vogue 1650 by Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche (2019) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The coat is a design from Fall 2017, Adam Andrascik’s last collection for Laroche. The original also sports a collar hook and jumbo belt buckle.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue noted the alternate version in tobacco leather — also seen in the Swiss magazine, Annabelle, which has a nice view of the shoulder dart.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.
Guy Laroche leather coat in Annabelle, October 2017. Image: Guy Laroche.

From the late Paco Peralta, a cropped jumpsuit with Custom Fit sizing (for multiple cup sizes). The contrast insets are a signature touch, also seen on the bestselling V1550.

Paco Peralta jumpsuit pattern V1647
Vogue 1647 by Paco Peralta (2019) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

There are two new patterns by Rachel Comey. First, the coat ensemble at the top of this post: a collarless, raglan-sleeved coat and the Oscillate skirt, a gored, high-waisted skirt with notched waistband detail.

Rachel Comey coat and skirt pattern V1646
Vogue 1646 by Rachel Comey (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

Comey’s Fall 2018 collection was modelled by Guinevere van Seenus, in a lookbook shot by Annie Powers and styled by Vanity Fair’s Samira Nasr.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018
Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Model: Guinevere van Seenus. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr. Image: Vogue Runway.

The second Rachel Comey is the Steadfast jumpsuit, a cropped-leg style with square armholes and wrap overlay.

Rachel Comey Steadfast jumpsuit pattern V1645
Vogue 1645 by Rachel Comey (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

For Pre-Fall 2017, the designer showed it layered, jumper-style, with a blouse.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2017 Steadfast jumpsuit blouse look
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

As worn in white by the editor Giannie Couji:

Giannie Couji wears Rachel Comey's Steadfast jumpsuit in white
Steadfast jumpsuit in white Italian Foam. Model: Giannie Couji. Image: Rachel Comey.

Vogue’s latest Gucci adaptation includes a jacket, dress, and pleated skirt. (Also sized for petites.)

Gucci knockoff pattern V1643
Vogue 1643 after Gucci (2019) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

Some will recognize the long, tan Gucci jacket from Peter Schlesinger’s photobook for Pre-Fall 2018 (last seen in my Summer post). Pair with a print dress and coronet for the full maximalist effect.

Unia Pakhomova photographed by Peter Schlesinger in Gucci Pre-Fall 2018
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Model: Unia Pakhomova. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

Gucci’s red, cardigan-style jacket and pleated skirt were a key look for Spring 2018.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele red jacket and white, pleated skirt, Spring 2018
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Spring 2018. Model: Sarah Wilson. Image: Vogue Runway.

As seen in the brand’s digitally painted Spring ’18 ad campaign:

Gucci Spring 2018 campaign illustration by Ignasi Monreal
Gucci Spring 2018 campaign. Illustration: Ignasi Monreal. Image: Gucci.

Vogue’s other Custom Fit design for Fall is a version of Roland Mouret’s Royston dress.

Roland Mouret Royston dress knockoff pattern V1631
Vogue 1631 after Roland Mouret (2019) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

First presented for Resort ’18, the Royston is an update of the hit Galaxy dress. For an even more faithful copy, serge the sleeve edge and add an exposed zipper. The dress is currently available in navy, white, and red through Roland Mouret’s webstore, or at Selfridges in new-season pink:

Roland Mouret’s Royston dress in new-season pink, 2019. Image: Selfridges.

The Royston dress is also the basis for Mouret’s Clovelly bridal gown.

And rounding out the Fall collection, a version of an Alexander McQueen coat reminiscent of Spring ’99 Givenchy. (Includes petite sizing.)

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton blanket coat knockoff pattern V1649
Vogue 1649 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

Metamorphosis was the theme of Sarah Burton’s Fall 2018 collection for McQueen. Military touches in red and black referenced the Household Cavalry, the Queen’s bodyguard. Exhibit A: Burton’s asymmetrical blanket coat, as worn on the runway by Stella Tennant.

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018. Model: Stella Tennant. Image: Vogue Runway.

A closer look at the fringed edge reveals a meticulous finish on the reverse:

Detail, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018
Detail, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

Those military colours are also seen in this season’s ad campaign featuring Kate Moss. McQueen Fall 2019 was inspired by the textile mills of Northern England, where Burton grew up.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Kate Moss. Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth. Art direction: M/M (Paris). Image: Alexander McQueen.

VISIBLE feat. Paco Peralta

Sketch for V1602 by Paco Peralta ©2017. Courtesy Paco Peralta.

This month in Galicia, the late Paco Peralta is among the artists whose work is on view in Visible (Visibility), a Pride Month exhibit curated by the photographer Daniel Agra.

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Este año se cumplen los 50 años de lucha por los derechos LGBTQ + . Desde spazo y CPSspazo queremos hacer desde el arte nuestro particular homenaje este mes de Junio, con nuestra mini colectiva “Visible” en las que participan artistas y defensores de los derechos LGBTQ +. Todo empezó el 28 de junio de 1969 en la ciudad de Nueva York, con el allanamiento por parte de la policía del Stonewall Inn, uno de los bares frecuentados por la comunidad LGBTQ +, que lejos de rendirse, un grupo de personas valientes se puso de pie. Esto generó cinco noches de protestas por los derechos LGBTQ +, fue la chispa que puso en marcha estos 50 años de Orgullo. Después de esto incidentes, las organizaciones de derechos LGBTQ + comenzaron a surgir en los Estados Unidos y en todo el mundo. El 27 y 28 de junio de 1970 en Nueva York, Los Ángeles, San Francisco y Chicago, fueron los primeros desfiles del Orgullo que conmemoraban a Stonewall Inn. En estos 50 años del movimiento de derechos LGBTQ +, ha habido muchos éxitos, pero queda mucho camino por recorrer, pero el legado de Stonewall vive cada día del año y en especial en cada marcha del Orgullo. . A Flaira [] A Coruña [] Pintora Multidisciplinar Paco Peralta [] Barcelona [] Modista Alta Costura – Designer Vogue Patterns De Rey [] A Coruña [] Escritor – Poeta Mabi Cerdán [] Navarra [] Pintora y Activista Pro Derechos Chelo Facal [] A Coruña [] Pintora y Escultora Lázaro Louzao [] A Coruña [] Director de Cine – Fotógrafo Javi Pita [] A Coruña [] Artista Multidisciplinar Martínez [] A Coruña [] Pintora – Restauradora – Encuadernadora – Técnico en Dorado Clara Lelarge [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafa Ana Soto [] A Coruña [] Ilustradora – Pintora Daniel Agra [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafo Estáis invitados… Os esperamos el Viernes día 7 a las 20.00 !!! . #espacio #spazovisible #setumismo #setumisma #talycomoeres #expositivo #expresiones #lenguajes #pensamientos #artgallery #artecontemporaneo #contemporaryart #contemporaryartist #coleccionistasdearte #artcollector #exhibition #exposicion #galeria #arte #coruna #coruña #acoruña #galicia #galiza #spazospazo

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Agra was a close friend of Paco Peralta. For the exhibit, he has included the designer’s original sample garments for Vogue 1602, a sculpted top and skirt in sequinned tweed. Peralta’s originals were worn by Nadja Giramata for last year’s Winter/Holiday release.

Nadja Giramata in an ensemble by Paco Peralta on view at CPS Spazo gallery, Galicia. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

Behind the scenes note: makeup was by Joseph Boggess / YSL Beauty. Peralta was a great collector of Yves Saint Laurent.

A Vogue pattern by Paco Peralta will remain on permanent exhibit at the Galician gallery.

Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Update: Paco’s friend Tany has also posted about the exhibit.

Visible is at A Coruña’s CPS spazo gallery through the month of June.

Visible, Friday, June 7th to Friday, June 28th, 2019

CPS spazo, Avda Mallos, 1, 15007 A Coruña, Galicia, Spain

http://www.spazo.es/