Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Detail, Badgley Mischka Fall 2019 runway presentation. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.

The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.

Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)

Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.

Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.

Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Guy Laroche FW19 campaign
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.
Vogue 1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020)
V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.

A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.

The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.

Jaunt coat
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.
Rachel Comey Jaunt coat pattern Vogue 1711 (2020)
V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.
Rachel Comey Alter pants pattern Vogue 1729 (2020)
V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.

One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.

A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.
Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.
Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1717 after Gucci (2020)
V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)

Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty fragrance campaign, 2019
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.
Navy belted wool and silk blend cady jumpsuit
Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Ecru belted wool and silk-blend cady playsuit
Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1719 jumpsuit pattern after Gucci (2020)
V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.

A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.
Veronika Kunz by fashion photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
Isabel Marant Resort 2020
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.

LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.
A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.
V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.

This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.

Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.
V1725 (2020)
V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020)
V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.

Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.

Vogue Paris 100

Vogue Paris, vol. 1 no. 1, 15 juin 1920 - Gallica.bnf.fr / Bibliothèque nationale de France
Inaugural issue of Vogue Paris, June 15, 1920. Illustration: Helen Dryden. Image: Gallica / BnF.

Today is the 100th anniversary of Vogue Paris. To celebrate, here’s a decade-by-decade look at Paris and patterns from the 1920s to now. (Click the images for more.)

In the 1920s, designs by Chanel and other Paris couturiers were available from the McCall Pattern Company. (See my article in the new issue of Selvedge.)

1920s Chanel pattern McCall 4464 - Ladies' and Misses' Evening Dress, "Original Creation by Chanel, Paris"
McCall 4464 by Chanel (1926) Evening dress.

In the 1930s, the Authentic Paris Pattern company sold French designs exclusively, like this ensemble by Schiaparelli.

Authentic Paris Pattern 1647 - schiaparelli, 4 rue de la paix, paris
Paris Pattern 1647 by Schiaparelli (ca. 1931)

Vogue joined the party with its Paris Originals in 1949.

Vogue 1078 by Marie-Blanche de Polignac for Lanvin (1949) Image: eBay.

In the 1950s, the company released its first Dior patterns, by the young Yves Saint Laurent.

1950s Yves Saint Laurent for Dior dress and jacket pattern Vogue 1470
Vogue 1470 by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior (1959) Model: Isabella Albonico. Photos: Leombruno-Bodi.

The couture of André Courrèges caused a sensation in the 1960s. Courrèges didn’t license patterns, but that didn’t stop the American pattern companies from producing a wealth of knockoffs.

McCall's 7923 after Courrèges in McCall's Pattern Fashions, Fall-Winter 1965-66.
McCall’s 7923 after Courrèges (with Marcel Barbeau painting) in a Crompton Corduroy ad, 1965.

In the early 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent shook up the Paris couture with his ’40s-inspired Libération collection.

Vogue 2598
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.

In the late 1980s, when Christian Lacroix left Patou for the prêt-à-porter, his Vogue patterns were conspicuously photographed in Paris.

Vogue 2176 by Christian Lacroix (1988)

John Galliano’s mid-1990s tenure at Givenchy signalled a massive shift for the Paris couture. This ready-to-wear design was available from Vogue Patterns.

John Galliano for Givenchy advertising campaign, Summer 1997. Image: styleregistry.

Guy Laroche was the last, and longest running, label with Vogue Paris Originals. This suit from the aughts was designed by the late Hervé L. Leroux, formerly Hervé Léger.

Guy Laroche Vogue Paris Original V2937 by Hervé L. Leroux ©2006 - Backless jacket and pants pattern
Vogue 2937 by Hervé L. Leroux (Hervé Léger) for Guy Laroche (2006)

Today, Vogue Paris Originals are no more, and you’re more likely to see versions of styles shown on the Paris runway, like this coat adapted from Sarah Burton for McQueen.

Tatyana Cooper in Vogue 1649 coat pattern after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (Fall 2018)
Vogue 1649 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.