Winter 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Guy Laroche FW 2018 by Richard René - V1666
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.

My Winter patterns report comes a little late: I’ve been busy working to save a historic hotel-turned-tavern here in Hamilton. (Read my op-ed | #SaveHanrahans) Without further ado, here’s a look at the last patterns of the decade.

Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 gown by Badgley Mischka
Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 by Badgley Mischka. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s cover look is a white jersey gown from Badgley Mischka. As worn on the pattern envelope by new model Shaya Ali:

Vogue 1656 by Badgley Mischka (2019)
Vogue 1656 by Badgley Mischka (2019) Model: Shaya Ali. Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche — a minimalist pantsuit with contrast trim — is the company’s first by Richard René.

Vogue 1666 by Guy Laroche
Vogue 1666 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2019) Image: McCall’s.

René’s second collection for Laroche was inspired by art brut and the graphic potential of a blank sheet of paper. According to Vogue, he showed structured pieces for strong personalities, with details like “stand-up edging that adds a cape-like extra inch or two to the shoulders.”

Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.

From Cynthia Rowley, a pattern for the Eden dress and top.

Simplicity 9012 (2019)
Simplicity 9012 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.

The original Eden dress in polished cotton. (The top version is a lightweight printed cotton: webstore | Rent the Runway.)

Cynthia Rowley’s Eden dress in polished cotton. Image: Cynthia Rowley / Pinterest.

This flounced dress by Cynthia Rowley is seen variously in the designer’s Inverness Fish print and bias-cut silk lamé.

Cynthia Rowley Sea Breeze dress pattern - Simplicity 9013
Simplicity 9013 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.

Rowley’s longtime collaborator William Eadon photographed the lookbook in her hometown of Barrington, Illinois. The lookbook was styled by her daughter, Kit Keenan.

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Silver Lake bias silk dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

For a subtle variation, close the front bodice seam.

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Inverness Fish mini dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

These pleated trousers are adapted from Celine by Hedi Slimane.

Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane
Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Hedi Slimane for Celine Fall 2019 Model: Marland Backus. Image: Vogue Runway.

McCall’s chic cover look is a version of Max Mara’s hooded cape coat.

McCall's lookbook, Winter 2019
McCall’s lookbook, Winter 2019. Image: Issuu.
McCall’s 8029 after Max Mara (2019)

Here’s the Max Mara original in cashmere twill:

Max Mara Pugnale cape in blush cashmere. Image: Matches Fashion.

Vogue Couturier patterns are the original Vogue designer knockoffs. The new Vintage Vogue is a Couturier coat from 1949:

Vogue 490 (1949)
Vogue 490 (1949) Image: eBay.
“Fashions for the life she leads” – Vogue, September 1949. Illustrations: Dagmar Freuchen-Gale.
Vogue 1669 (2019)
Vogue 1669 (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Vintage Vogue 1669 on the cover of the Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Custom Fit patterns are also designer adaptations. View A of V1654 is after Gucci.

Vogue 1654 after Gucci
Vogue 1654 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Gucci grosgrain-trimmed stretch-ponte mini dress. Image: net-a-porter.

And V1667 is a version of Prabal Gurung’s tulip sleeve jacket. (Trousers not included.)

Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019)
Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue noted Gurung’s “sharp-yet-curvy, cherry-red pantsuit.”

Prabal Gurung Resort 2018
Prabal Gurung Resort 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

The tulip-sleeve suit comes in many variations, such as zebra print, sequins, and an ecru check. The latter is a very fine houndstooth in stretch poly-viscose.

Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018
Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Prabal Gurung ecru check tulip sleeve jacket. Images: Moda Operandi.

With a few tweaks you can sew the look, as worn by Beyoncé.

Beyoncé in Prabal Gurung, October 2018. Image: Twitter.

Fall 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr. Image: Vogue Runway.

This season, Vogue patterns have a new format. For Fall 2019, illustrations are out, and photography is in, even for the company’s house line. Also consolidated is the line branding and numbering, which used to differ between licensed and internal designs. Paris Originals, Designer Originals, even Vogue designer knockoffs — they all have the same new look.

Vogue Patterns Fall 2019 lookbook cover with V1633 dress
Vogue Patterns Fall 2019 lookbook. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: Issuu.

Autumn means outerwear, and Laroche comes through with a chic trench coat with interesting details: a storm flap, arm band, and oversized belt carriers.

Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche FW 2017 trench coat pattern V1650
Vogue 1650 by Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche (2019) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The coat is a design from Fall 2017, Adam Andrascik’s last collection for Laroche. The original also sports a collar hook and jumbo belt buckle.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

Vogue noted the alternate version in tobacco leather — also seen in the Swiss magazine, Annabelle, which has a nice view of the shoulder dart.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.
Guy Laroche leather coat in Annabelle, October 2017. Image: Guy Laroche.

From the late Paco Peralta, a cropped jumpsuit with Custom Fit sizing (for multiple cup sizes). The contrast insets are a signature touch, also seen on the bestselling V1550.

Paco Peralta jumpsuit pattern V1647
Vogue 1647 by Paco Peralta (2019) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

There are two new patterns by Rachel Comey. First, the coat ensemble at the top of this post: a collarless, raglan-sleeved coat and the Oscillate skirt, a gored, high-waisted skirt with notched waistband detail.

Rachel Comey coat and skirt pattern V1646
Vogue 1646 by Rachel Comey (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

Comey’s Fall 2018 collection was modelled by Guinevere van Seenus, in a lookbook shot by Annie Powers and styled by Vanity Fair’s Samira Nasr.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Fall 2018
Rachel Comey Fall 2018. Model: Guinevere van Seenus. Photo: Annie Powers. Editor: Samira Nasr. Image: Vogue Runway.

The second Rachel Comey is the Steadfast jumpsuit, a cropped-leg style with square armholes and wrap overlay.

Rachel Comey Steadfast jumpsuit pattern V1645
Vogue 1645 by Rachel Comey (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

For Pre-Fall 2017, the designer showed it layered, jumper-style, with a blouse.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2017 Steadfast jumpsuit blouse look
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.

As worn in white by the editor Giannie Couji:

Giannie Couji wears Rachel Comey's Steadfast jumpsuit in white
Steadfast jumpsuit in white Italian Foam. Model: Giannie Couji. Image: Rachel Comey.

Vogue’s latest Gucci adaptation includes a jacket, dress, and pleated skirt. (Also sized for petites.)

Gucci knockoff pattern V1643
Vogue 1643 after Gucci (2019) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

Some will recognize the long, tan Gucci jacket from Peter Schlesinger’s photobook for Pre-Fall 2018 (last seen in my Summer post). Pair with a print dress and coronet for the full maximalist effect.

Unia Pakhomova photographed by Peter Schlesinger in Gucci Pre-Fall 2018
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Model: Unia Pakhomova. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

Gucci’s red, cardigan-style jacket and pleated skirt were a key look for Spring 2018.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele red jacket and white, pleated skirt, Spring 2018
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Spring 2018. Model: Sarah Wilson. Image: Vogue Runway.

As seen in the brand’s digitally painted Spring ’18 ad campaign:

Gucci Spring 2018 campaign illustration by Ignasi Monreal
Gucci Spring 2018 campaign. Illustration: Ignasi Monreal. Image: Gucci.

Vogue’s other Custom Fit design for Fall is a version of Roland Mouret’s Royston dress.

Roland Mouret Royston dress knockoff pattern V1631
Vogue 1631 after Roland Mouret (2019) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

First presented for Resort ’18, the Royston is an update of the hit Galaxy dress. For an even more faithful copy, serge the sleeve edge and add an exposed zipper. The dress is currently available in navy, white, and red through Roland Mouret’s webstore, or at Selfridges in new-season pink:

Roland Mouret’s Royston dress in new-season pink, 2019. Image: Selfridges.

The Royston dress is also the basis for Mouret’s Clovelly bridal gown.

And rounding out the Fall collection, a version of an Alexander McQueen coat reminiscent of Spring ’99 Givenchy. (Includes petite sizing.)

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton blanket coat knockoff pattern V1649
Vogue 1649 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

Metamorphosis was the theme of Sarah Burton’s Fall 2018 collection for McQueen. Military touches in red and black referenced the Household Cavalry, the Queen’s bodyguard. Exhibit A: Burton’s asymmetrical blanket coat, as worn on the runway by Stella Tennant.

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018. Model: Stella Tennant. Image: Vogue Runway.

A closer look at the fringed edge reveals a meticulous finish on the reverse:

Detail, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018
Detail, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Fall 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

Those military colours are also seen in this season’s ad campaign featuring Kate Moss. McQueen Fall 2019 was inspired by the textile mills of Northern England, where Burton grew up.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Kate Moss. Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth. Art direction: M/M (Paris). Image: Alexander McQueen.

Summer 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Zandra Rhodes 1973 Field of Lilies / Summer gown photographed by Claire Rothstein
Pat and Anna Cleveland, both in Zandra Rhodes’ Summer gown. Photo: Claire Rothstein. Image: Instagram.

Have you seen the new summer patterns?

Cover look V1627 is an archival design by Zandra Rhodes, as worn by the Latvian-American model Ana Kondratjeva.

Zandra Rhodes pattern V1627 as worn by Ana Kondratjeva on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2019
Zandra Rhodes dress pattern V1627 as worn by Ana Kondratjeva on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2019. Image: Issuu.

Rhodes reissued her 1973 Field of Lilies dress — renamed the Summer, in memory of Donna Summer — for Matches Fashion’s recent 30th anniversary. The designer commissioned Claire Rothstein to take the mother-and-daughter portrait at the top of this post, in which Pat Cleveland and her daughter, Anna, both model the dress. The original is printed silk chiffon.

Vogue 1627 by Zandra Rhodes
Vogue 1627 by Zandra Rhodes (2019) Model: Ana Kondratjeva. Image: McCall’s.
Matches Fashion 30th anniversary illustration by Zandra Rhodes, 2017
Matches Fashion 30th anniversary illustration by Zandra Rhodes, 2017. Image: Instagram.

Inspired by Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, the new Very Easy Vogue pyjama is illustrated with ribbon trim, and in a version of the Gucci Flora print.

V9375
Vogue 9375 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.

For Gucci Pre-Fall 2018, in place of a more conventional lookbook, American artist Peter Schlesinger shot a photobook on location in Rome. Called Disturbia, it was inspired by the films of Dario Argento, the director behind the original Suspiria.

Inside Disturbia – Gucci Pre-Fall 2018 by Alessandro Michele. Photos: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Another Man.

A variation of the Gucci Flora pyjamas in printed silk twill.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

Michele paired a full-length version of the trousers, trimmed in the distinctive Gucci ribbon, with a faux-fur coat.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Peter Schlesinger. Image: Vogue Runway.

The Pre-Fall 2019 ad campaign features another version of the Gucci Flora pyjama, as seen in the ancient ruins of Selinunte, Sicily. Vogue’s reference kimono top and pant (on pre-order at Neiman Marcus) is silk georgette.

Gucci PreFall 2019
Gucci Pre-Fall 2019, with members of Brooklyn punk band Surfbort. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Instagram.

The new Tracy Reese sundress has a cowl neckline, criss-cross back, and midriff that extends into waist ties. (See WWD for recent news.)

V1625 by Tracy Reese
Vogue 1625 by Tracy Reese (2019) Model: Ana Kondratjeva. Image: McCall’s.

Martha Graham was the inspiration for Reese’s Spring 2015 collection, where the dress was shown with a kimono jacket in the same botanical print.

Tracy Reese Spring 2015
Tracy Reese Spring 2015. Photo: Alessandro Garofalo. Image: Vogue Runway.

There are two patterns from Rachel Comey. The first: the Willow peasant top and Basin pant with grosgrain waistband. Judging from the pattern number, it may have been delayed from the Spring release. Hopefully this doesn’t signal the wrapping up of the designer’s contract. (See: Laroche?)

Vogue 1618 by Rachel Comey
Vogue 1618 by Rachel Comey (2019) Willow top, Basin pant. Model: Heather Aboff. Image: McCall’s.

Both pieces made their début in Comey’s country-and-western themed Pre-Fall 2016 collection, shot by New York street photographer Gus Powell. The original Willow top (right) is rayon gauze.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2016
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2016. Photo: Gus Powell. Image: Vogue Runway.

For Fall 2016, Comey showed the top in a cute print. Later, it could even be seen in a lace and gingham combo.

Rachel Comey Fall 2016
Rachel Comey Fall 2016. Image: Vogue Runway.

The second Rachel Comey is a pair of unisex shirts. The unisex / menswear angle is welcome, since Comey made her name with men’s shirts. (See my earlier post.)

V1622 Rachel Comey unisex shirt pattern
Vogue 1622 by Rachel Comey (2019) Tre and Selleck unisex shirts. Image: McCall’s.

The Selleck shirt is short-sleeved, with seam interest, while the Tre shirt is a long-sleeved button-down. Both were shown in Comey’s Spring 2017 15th anniversary collection, which saw the launch of her unisex line.

Rachel Comey’s Selleck shirt, 2017. Image: Uncover LA.
Rachel Comey Spring 2017. Image: Vogue Runway.
Detail, Tre shirt by Rachel Comey in printed charmeuse, 2017. Image: Lyst / Farfetch.

After a decade of licensing, Simplicity has released a swimwear design by Cynthia Rowley. The colour-blocked one-piece is called the Heather, and retails in Rowley’s signature neoprene.

Simplicity 8928 by Cynthia Rowley (2019)
Simplicity 8928 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.
Cynthia Rowley’s Heather one-piece in colour-blocked neoprene. Image: Cynthia Rowley.

The new pattern also includes a button-front maxi dress with ruffle sleeves. Add bodice tucks and you have the Nairobi kaftan — Rowley’s opening look for Spring 2017. The original caftan dress is 100% cotton.

Cynthia Rowley Spring 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: Vogue Runway.

Finally, a stealth bridal pattern: Very Easy Vogue V9373, a version of a Stella McCartney gown that was the first change of a newly minted duchess. (More at Vogue.)

V9373
Vogue 9373 after Stella McCartney (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Meghan Markle in Stella McCartney bridal, with Prince Harry, Windsor Castle, May 2018
The newly married Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, and Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex, leave Windsor Castle to attend an evening reception at Frogmore House, May 2018. Photo: Steve Parsons. Image: AFP/Getty via Vogue.

The bride’s silk crepe, open-backed gown was an advance look at the Stella McCartney Made With Love collection, which launched in autumn, 2018.

McCartneyBridal1
Stella McCartney Made With Love bridal collection. Images: Stella McCartney.

Make in cruelty-free, sustainable fabrics for the authentic Stella McCartney touch.

McCartney-bridal2
Stella McCartney Made With Love bridal collection. Images: Stella McCartney.

Famke Janssen

Famke Janssen photographed by Francis Giacobetti for the cover of Elle, September 1985
Famke Janssen on the cover of Elle, September 1985. Photo: Francis Giacobetti. Image: Pinterest.

This week’s post-Comic-Con models post looks at Dutch model-turned-actor Famke Janssen.

Famke Janssen on the cover of Elle Spain, March 1989
Famke Janssen on the cover of Spanish Elle, March 1989. Image: Fashion Model Directory.

Born in Amstelveen, Famke Janssen (b. 1964) studied economics at the University of Amsterdam before moving to the United States to pursue a modelling career. She signed with Elite in 1984. Returning to university in the early 1990s, Janssen gravitated toward drama; she went on to win starring roles in Star Trek: The Next Generation, GoldenEye (1995), and the X-Men franchise.

Famke Janssen in "The Perfect Mate" on Star Trek: The Next Generation, Season 5 episode 21
Famke Janssen and Mickey Cottrell in “The Perfect Mate,” Star Trek: The Next Generation, Season 5 (1992) Image: Star Trek Blog.
Famke Janssen as Jean Grey on the cover of TV Guide magazine, July 2000
Famke Janssen as Jean Grey, TV Guide, July 15-21, 2000. Image: TV Guide.

Janssen did some modelling work for Butterick in the late 1980s: bridal and designer suits and formal wear by Ronnie Heller, Nicole Miller, and Morton Myles.

1980s bridal pattern "Enchanting hats and bows" - Butterick 3573
Butterick 3573 (1989) Image: Etsy.
1980s Robbie Heller MJ skirt suit pattern Butterick 4374
Butterick 4374 by Ronnie Heller (1989) Image: Etsy.
1980s Nicole Miller evening dress pattern feat. Famke Janssen - Butterick 4376
Butterick 4376 by Nicole Miller (1989) Image: Artfire.
1980s Morton Myles for the Warrens dress pattern feat. Famke Janssen, Butterick 4375
Butterick 4375 by Morton Myles for the Warrens (1989) Image: All the Precious Things.

Just for fun, here’s an ’80s editorial image featuring Janssen:

Famke Janssen photographed by Hans Feurer in red Rocco Barocco for Vogue Italia, December 1986
Famke Janssen in Rocco Barocco, Vogue Italia, December 1986. Photo: Hans Feurer. Image: tumblr.

Halston of Bergdorf Goodman – Vogue 7082

Detail, Vogue 7082 by Halston of Bergdorf Goodman

Royal Ascot begins today. Here’s a look at an Ascot-worthy Halston pattern.

Halston licensed millinery designs with Vogue Patterns during his time as Chief Milliner at Bergdorf Goodman. (See my earlier Mad Men-era millinery post.) Vogue 7082 is a petal headpiece with optional veil:

1960s Halston of Bergdorf Goodman bridal headpiece pattern - Vogue 7082
Vogue 7082 by Halston of Bergdorf Goodman (ca. 1967)

Here’s the envelope description: Bridal headpiece. Large or small petal headpiece with or without long or short veil is secured to hair with comb; optional ribbon bow. Recommended fabrics: organdy, organza, lace, point d’esprit. Veil: net, tulle. Notions: comb, millinery wire, 2 1/4″ ribbon.

The Halston headpiece was cross-promoted on two bridal patterns, Vogue 1744 and Vogue 1745, as an option for both brides and bridesmaids. Or as a contemporary catalogue has it, “Enchanting bouquet of graduated petals… crowning touch for any member of the bridal party by Halston of Bergdorf Goodman.”

1960s bride's or bridesmaid's dress pattern Vogue Special Design 1745
Vogue 1745 (ca. 1967) Image: eBay.

Worn with a matching suit, wouldn’t it be perfect for a day at the races?

1960s dress and jacket pattern Vogue Special Design 7061
Vogue 7061 (ca. 1967) Image: Etsy.

Zandra Rhodes: Style Patterns

Zandra Rhodes and Rembrandt's portrait of Catrina Hooghsaet, 2014
Zandra Rhodes and Rembrandt’s portrait of Catrina Hooghsaet, 2014. Image: National Gallery.

Last week, Zandra Rhodes returned to London Fashion Week for her Spring 2016 collection. Famous for her colourful, hand-drawn prints, the bohemian cult favourite is also new to Vogue Patterns for Winter/Holiday 2015: Vogue 1472 is the first new Zandra Rhodes sewing pattern in thirty years.

Update: read a profile in Vogue Patterns magazine:

VPMDecJan15-16-Rhodes
Zandra Rhodes in Vogue Patterns Magazine, December/January 2015-16. Image: Issuu.

For knitters, the current issue of Rowan Knitting & Crochet has a Zandra Rhodes jacket pattern available as a free download.

Zandra Rhodes sketch with yarn charts and sample garment - Rowan 58 (Winter 2015)
Zandra Rhodes sketch with yarn charts and sample garment in Katy Bevan, “Dame Zandra’s Knitting Circle,” Rowan Knitting & Crochet 58 (Winter 2015). Image: Rowan.

Born in Chatham, Kent, Zandra Rhodes (b. 1940) trained as a textile designer at Medway College of Art, where her mother was a lecturer, and London’s Royal College of Art. Rhodes founded her own label in order to build garments around her prints. Her first, 1969 collection, Knitted Circle, was famously worn by Natalie Wood in Vogue magazine; the evening coat is now in the collection of the V&A:

Forecast: the London bit - Natalie Wood in hand-screened prints by Zandra Rhodes - Gianni Penati, ca. 1969
Natalie Wood wears a screen-printed felt evening coat and silk chiffon dress, both by Zandra Rhodes. Vogue, January 1970. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.

Rhodes became known as the Princess of Punk following her Spring 1977 torn and safety-pinned Conceptual Chic collection, which was partly inspired by Schiaparelli’s Tears dress.

Wedding dress and dress from Zandra Rhodes' Spring 1977 collection
A wedding dress and dress from Zandra Rhodes’ Spring 1977 collection at the PUNK: Chaos to Couture exhibit, 2014. Image: Metropolitan Museum of Art.

By the 1980s Rhodes was designing for Princess Diana. The princess wore this pink chiffon dress, embellished with crystal beads and pearl droplets, during her 1986 state visit to Japan (now in the collection of Historic Royal Palaces):

Zandra Rhodes sketch for Princes Diana. Image: SDNews.

In 1985, Style Patterns released a handful of Zandra Rhodes sewing patterns. Rhodes was among the first designers to be included in the company’s short-lived designer line. (See my earlier posts on Bruce Oldfield and Frederick Fox.)

Update: I found a fourth Style pattern by Zandra Rhodes, Style 4398:

1980s Zandra Rhodes dress pattern Style 4389
Style 4389 by Zandra Rhodes (1985)

Style 4399 is a pattern for a wedding or evening dress in two lengths with characteristic serated frill:

1980s Zandra Rhodes formal dress pattern - Style 4399
Style 4399 by Zandra Rhodes (1985) Image: Etsy.
Style 4399 schematic
Back view for Style 4399 (1985)

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ Lined Wedding Dress or Evening Dress in Two Lengths — Dress has shoulder yoke with serrated frill and pointed cape effect on bodice. Skirt has elasticated waistline. Model 1 bead trim is used on yoke and neck tie. Suggested fabrics: Lightweight silk types, crepe de chine, chiffon, shantung, lace, voile, batiste, organza. Lining: Jap silk, crepe de chine. Trim: wide ribbon and pearl beading or narrow ribbon.

Style 4400 is an off-the-shoulder wedding or bridesmaid’s dress with separate petticoat:

1980s Zandra Rhodes formal dress pattern - Style 4400
Style 4400 by Zandra Rhodes (1985)
Style 4400 schematic
Technical drawing for Style 4400 (1985)

The envelope description reads: Misses’ Half-Lined Wedding Dress or Bridesmaid’s Dress and Petticoat — Dress has flounced bodice with elasticated waist. Skirt has layered net frills, with gathered net and ribbon trim. Bride and bridesmaid’s dress has petticoat in fabric and net. Suggested fabrics: Dress, Models 1 and 2: Organza, voile, silk or synthetic sheers, lightweight lace. Lining: silk types, taffeta, satin (nap irrelevant). Net or tulle: silk, nylon. Trim: wide ribbon, sequin trim, narrow ribbon.

The third dress design, Style 4400, has a low back décolletage and multi-tiered skirt:

1980s Zandra Rhodes dress pattern - Style 4495
Style 4495 by Zandra Rhodes (1985)
Style 4495 schematic
Technical drawing for Style 4495 (1985)

You can see the same pattern with updated envelope here.

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ Dress in Two Lengths — Dress has fitted bodice with elasticated waistline. Models 1 and 3 have bodice frill to waistline. Model 2 has shorter bodice frill. Models 1 and 2 have four-tiered skirt flounce. Model 3 has three-tiered skirt flounce. Suggested fabrics: Chiffon, georgette, voile, silk or synthetic sheers, organza. Also: lightweight lining fabric. Trim: wide ribbon; pearl trim (views 1 and 2).

The designs seem to be from Rhodes’ Spring 1985 collection, Images of Woman:

Zandra Rhodes SS1985 a
Zandra Rhodes Spring/Summer 1985 collection. Image: UCA Library.
Zandra Rhodes SS1985 b
Zandra Rhodes Spring/Summer 1985 collection. Image: UCA Library.

The trim and fabric specifications are catalogues of girliness: lightweight, floaty fabrics to be trimmed with the ribbon, sequins, and pearls. I love how Style 4495 suggests lining fabric as an alternative—perhaps with a budget-conscious youth market in mind.

For more on Zandra Rhodes, see the V&A’s article.

The Smartest Move You Can Make

Vogue ad April 1957 detail

Now that wedding season is upon us, I wanted to share this bridal-themed ad for Vogue Patterns from spring, 1957. The pattern is a Vogue Special Design, Vogue S-4765 (click to enlarge):

1950s Vogue Patterns advertisement showing Vogue S-4765
The smartest move you can make… Vogue Printed and Perforated Patterns advertisement, April 1957.

The company had a series of these ads, each showing the model bursting out of a bunch of printed and perforated pattern pieces. (Vogue patterns were unprinted until the mid-1950s.) I love how the slogan, “The smartest move you can make,” blurs the distinction between a life decision such as marriage and the choice of pattern brand.