Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Detail, Badgley Mischka Fall 2019 runway presentation. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.

The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.

Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)

Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.

Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.

Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Guy Laroche FW19 campaign
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.
Vogue 1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020)
V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.

A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.

The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.

Jaunt coat
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.
Rachel Comey Jaunt coat pattern Vogue 1711 (2020)
V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.
Rachel Comey Alter pants pattern Vogue 1729 (2020)
V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.

One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.

A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.
Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.
Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1717 after Gucci (2020)
V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)

Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty fragrance campaign, 2019
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.
Navy belted wool and silk blend cady jumpsuit
Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Ecru belted wool and silk-blend cady playsuit
Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1719 jumpsuit pattern after Gucci (2020)
V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.

A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.
Veronika Kunz by fashion photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
Isabel Marant Resort 2020
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.

LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.
A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.
V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.

This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.

Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.
V1725 (2020)
V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020)
V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.

Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.

Winter 2019 Designer Pattern Highlights

Guy Laroche FW 2018 by Richard René - V1666
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.

My Winter patterns report comes a little late: I’ve been busy working to save a historic hotel-turned-tavern here in Hamilton. (Read my op-ed | #SaveHanrahans) Without further ado, here’s a look at the last patterns of the decade.

Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 gown by Badgley Mischka
Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 by Badgley Mischka. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s cover look is a white jersey gown from Badgley Mischka. As worn on the pattern envelope by new model Shaya Ali:

Vogue 1656 by Badgley Mischka (2019)
Vogue 1656 by Badgley Mischka (2019) Model: Shaya Ali. Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche — a minimalist pantsuit with contrast trim — is the company’s first by Richard René.

Vogue 1666 by Guy Laroche
Vogue 1666 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2019) Image: McCall’s.

René’s second collection for Laroche was inspired by art brut and the graphic potential of a blank sheet of paper. According to Vogue, he showed structured pieces for strong personalities, with details like “stand-up edging that adds a cape-like extra inch or two to the shoulders.”

Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.

From Cynthia Rowley, a pattern for the Eden dress and top.

Simplicity 9012 (2019)
Simplicity 9012 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.

The original Eden dress in polished cotton. (The top version is a lightweight printed cotton: webstore | Rent the Runway.)

Cynthia Rowley’s Eden dress in polished cotton. Image: Cynthia Rowley / Pinterest.

This flounced dress by Cynthia Rowley is seen variously in the designer’s Inverness Fish print and bias-cut silk lamé.

Cynthia Rowley Sea Breeze dress pattern - Simplicity 9013
Simplicity 9013 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.

Rowley’s longtime collaborator William Eadon photographed the lookbook in her hometown of Barrington, Illinois. The lookbook was styled by her daughter, Kit Keenan.

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Silver Lake bias silk dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

For a subtle variation, close the front bodice seam.

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Inverness Fish mini dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

These pleated trousers are adapted from Celine by Hedi Slimane.

Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane
Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Hedi Slimane for Celine Fall 2019 Model: Marland Backus. Image: Vogue Runway.

McCall’s chic cover look is a version of Max Mara’s hooded cape coat.

McCall's lookbook, Winter 2019
McCall’s lookbook, Winter 2019. Image: Issuu.
McCall’s 8029 after Max Mara (2019)

Here’s the Max Mara original in cashmere twill:

Max Mara Pugnale cape in blush cashmere. Image: Matches Fashion.

Vogue Couturier patterns are the original Vogue designer knockoffs. The new Vintage Vogue is a Couturier coat from 1949:

Vogue 490 (1949)
Vogue 490 (1949) Image: eBay.
“Fashions for the life she leads” – Vogue, September 1949. Illustrations: Dagmar Freuchen-Gale.
Vogue 1669 (2019)
Vogue 1669 (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Vintage Vogue 1669 on the cover of the Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Custom Fit patterns are also designer adaptations. View A of V1654 is after Gucci.

Vogue 1654 after Gucci
Vogue 1654 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.
Gucci grosgrain-trimmed stretch-ponte mini dress. Image: net-a-porter.

And V1667 is a version of Prabal Gurung’s tulip sleeve jacket. (Trousers not included.)

Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019)
Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue noted Gurung’s “sharp-yet-curvy, cherry-red pantsuit.”

Prabal Gurung Resort 2018
Prabal Gurung Resort 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.

The tulip-sleeve suit comes in many variations, such as zebra print, sequins, and an ecru check. The latter is a very fine houndstooth in stretch poly-viscose.

Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018
Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Prabal Gurung ecru check tulip sleeve jacket. Images: Moda Operandi.

With a few tweaks you can sew the look, as worn by Beyoncé.

Beyoncé in Prabal Gurung, October 2018. Image: Twitter.