Summer 2018 Designer Pattern Highlights

April 15, 2018 § 12 Comments

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Spring 2017

A look from Guy Laroche Spring 2017. Image: vogue.com.

The new designer patterns for Summer 2018 play with texture and special fabrics. Lace, seersucker, matelassé, waffle georgette, even a laser-cut textile makes an appearance.

Vogue’s summer cover look is by Nicola Finetti.

Nicola Finetti dress V1587 on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2018

Vogue 1587 by Nicola Finetti, Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2018. Image: McCall’s.

The matelassé cocktail dress with shaped hemline and flounce sleeves is from Nicola Finetti Fall 2016.

Nicola Finetti dress pattern Vogue 1587

Vogue 1587 by Nicola Finetti (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Finetti also showed a longer, front-zip version of V1587. Just trim down the A-line skirt and add a midriff panel:

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016. Images: Not Just A Label.

This season’s backless showpiece is by Adam Andrascik for Laroche: a long-sleeved dress with front bodice drape and slim, layered skirt. Use a semi-sheer fabric for the full effect.

Guy Laroche dress pattern by Adam Andrascik Vogue 1589

Vogue 1589 by Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The original is textured silk georgette in a chartreuse-tinged shade of La La Land yellow.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik Spring 2017 V1589

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Spring 2017. Image: vogue.com.

Andrascik showed two takes on the backless V1589 dress. (A famously backless, ’70s Guy Laroche gown is a perennial inspiration for today’s Laroche designers. French actor Mireille Darc’s gown, worn in the 1972 comedy Le grand blond avec une chaussure noire, also informed Hilary Swank’s Oscar dress.) Here, the V1589 dress is seen backstage:

Backstage at Guy Laroche Spring 2017

Backstage at Guy Laroche Spring 2017. Image: Guy Laroche/Instagram.

On a black, sleeveless version, bead chains dangled from silver appliques:

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik Spring 2017

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Spring 2017. Image: vogue.com.

Judging from the pattern number, the second Laroche may have been delayed from Vogue’s spring release. From Marcel Marongiu, it’s a long-sleeved dress with contrast collar, cuffs, and curved contrast panels in front and back.

Marcel Marongiu for Guy Laroche dress pattern Vogue 1577

Vogue 1577 by Marcel Marongiu for Guy Laroche (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Revered American designer Claire McCardell was the inspiration for Marongiu’s last collection for Laroche. The V1577 dress was shown both long-sleeved and sleeveless:

Guy Laroche dress by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015

Guy Laroche by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015. Image: Guy Laroche.

Guy Laroche dress by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015

Guy Laroche by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015. Image: Guy Laroche.

As a grey and white coat dress, it swaps the button placket for jumbo exposed zippers:

Guy Laroche coatdress by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015

Guy Laroche by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015. Image: Guy Laroche.

Marongiu’s shift dress version, with giant paillettes, was featured in the Laroche advertising campaign by Steve Hiett. Hiett also photographed the V1589 dress for Spring ’17:

Guy Laroche Spring 2015 giant pailette shift dresses by Marcel Marongiu

Guy Laroche Spring 2015 by Marcel Marongiu. Images: Guy Laroche.

Guy Laroche Spring 2015 ad campaign photographed by Steve Hiett

New from Rachel Comey: the Popcorn dress. The Comey staple is shown in Spring 2017’s seersucker.

Rachel Comey's Popcorn dress pattern, Vogue 1585

Vogue 1585 by Rachel Comey (2018) Popcorn dress. Image: McCall’s.

The pullover dress works for both solids and prints—even print-mixing with contrast skirt inserts. The current version is black rayon.

Rachel Comey's Popcorn dress in black rayon, 2017

Rachel Comey’s Popcorn dress, 2017. Image: Rachel Comey.

In her Spring 2007 collection, presented at the Altman building during New York Fashion Week, Comey showed the dress both loose and belted.

Rachel Comey Spring 2007

Rachel Comey Spring 2007. Images: ELLE.

Rachel Comey SS 2007 backstage

Backstage at Rachel Comey Spring 2007. Photos: Randy Brooke/WireImage.

A closer look reveals the print-mixing. There are only two prints here, with one, reminiscent of Biba’s famous banana print, in three colourways:

Rachel Comey Spring 2007

Rachel Comey Spring 2007. Images: firstVIEW.

The Summer patterns include two lace looks from Rebecca Vallance: a cutout dress and the Dolce Vita jumpsuit. (There’s one dress left at the Outnet.) The Dolce Vita is a cropped, wide-leg jumpsuit tied with grosgrain ribbon:

Rebecca Vallance Dolce Vita jumpsuit pattern Vogue 1591

Vogue 1591 by Rebecca Vallance (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The jumpsuit is from Rebecca Vallance Summer 2016.

Rebecca Vallance Summer 2016

Rebecca Vallance Summer 2016. Image: Rebecca Vallance/Instagram.

Simplicity’s latest from Cynthia Rowley is a flounce-sleeved lace dress with two neckline variations. Choose from off the shoulder or scoop neck.

Cynthia Rowley ruffle sleeve lace dress pattern Simplicity 8599

Simplicity 8599 by Cynthia Rowley (2018) Image: Simplicity.

Rowley presented her Spring 2017 collection in a “feathered snow globe” at her West Village townhouse. (See WWD.) As photographed by frequent collaborator William Eadon, the S8599 dress is layered, maximalist-style, under an appliquéd satin smock:

CynthiaRowleySpring2017_5 William Eadon

Cynthia Rowley Spring 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: vogue.com.

The original dress had a contrast back bodice:

Cynthia Rowley red lace ruffle sleeve dress SS 2017Cynthia Rowley red lace ruffle sleeve dress back SS 2017

Seeing designers’ alternate looks for the Spring/Summer pattern designs, it’s striking how Vogue no longer provides variant views in their designer line, whereas for Simplicity, it’s built in to the business. But armed with reference photos, it’s easy to transform a design.

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016 photographed by Marissa Alden

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016. Photo: Marissa Alden. Model: Morven MacSween. Image: Nicola Finetti/Instagram.

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§ 12 Responses to Summer 2018 Designer Pattern Highlights

  • I like the grey and white coat dress, and the black and print colour blocked one. A lovely design!

  • jay says:

    Thanks for this review, I enjoyed seeing the patterns in the context of the runway garments. For me, there’s nothing as each one crashes into one or other of my ‘can’t wear’ inhibitions, but as always, someone will pull them off and make a great version. The only one I might purchase would be the Cynthia Rowley dress, which would suit one of my daughters, but it’s such an easy draft. Vogues are expensive here, I look for much bang for buck. If I can draft it in half an hour myself it stays on the shelf.

  • sewruth says:

    Thanks for your insight and knowledge – always a fascinating read.

  • Thanks for this really interesting post. Knowing a bit about the context of the designs gives me a new appreciation of several of them.

    What’s bugging me right now is that the blue and white Guy Laroche coatdress has very similar lines to an amazing coatdress worn by the character Liz Shaw in 70s Doctor Who and now I can’t find a good picture of the Doctor Who costume. The centre panels were done in vacuum formed plastic. Back to google 🙂

    • erniek3 says:

      Your memory is delightful! If you search on the title “Spearhead from Space” and look at the images, Ms Shaw’s coat is an inverse of this design (and now I need to make one). This style has been roaming around for some time (the ByHand free pattern Polly top has the same design), but I think I like LIz’s coat best.

  • Cassandra Phillips says:

    Wonderful review as always!

  • Liz Haywood says:

    Enjoyed this review and the different versions of each garment. Many thanks.

  • Chris T says:

    Thank you, such an interesting and insightful post.

  • Erica Bunker says:

    I’m so glad you showed the runway version of the Nicola Finetti. Some were absolutely outraged on social media with the short version of the dress. As if you aren’t sewing the darn thing yourself. Lengthen it!

  • Christine Taylor says:

    Hi Sarah

    I know it is late but I wanted to thank you for producing this blog, this one in particular is so interesting and informative. It’s good to know that Vogue patterns are fairly up to date.

    Regards

    Christine Taylor

    Sent from my iPad

  • Petite Main says:

    it is so interesting, thank you. Vogue patterns should enroll you!

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