Gnyuki Torimaru (Yuki): Style Patterns

May 19, 2018 § Leave a comment

Diana, Princess of Wales, wears Yuki to a banquet hosted by Emperor Hirohito in May, 1986

Diana, Princess of Wales, wears Yuki to a banquet hosted by Emperor Hirohito in May, 1986. Image: Pinterest.

Gnyuki Torimaru, or Yuki, is most famous for dressing Princess Diana on her 1986 state visit to Japan. But his licensed sewing patterns date to the year before.

Born in Miyazaki Prefecture, Japan, Gnyuki Torimaru (b. 1937) studied architecture in Chicago before settling in London, where he attended the London College of Fashion. He launched his own label, Yuki, in 1972, after stints at Norman Hartnell in London and Pierre Cardin in Paris. (For more, see Suzanne Kampner, “Out Goes Majolica, In Goes Nothing.”)

Yuki London label ca. 1986

Image: Vintage Fashion Guild.

Visitors to the Boston Museum of Fine Art can see his blue, pleated gown and other designs in the museum’s extensive Yuki collection.

Blue gown with beaded panels by Gnyuki Torimaru (Yuki)

Gown by Gnyuki Torimaru. Image: Boston Museum of Fine Art.

Torimaru made his name in the 1970s with his draped jersey gowns. Jerry Hall’s cream Yuki gown, seen on the cover of British Vogue and in Barry Lategan’s editorial, “Dare the Ritz,” has a hem that doubles back as a hood. The Boston Museum of Fine Art has a silk version; model-turned-actor Gayle Hunnicutt donated her carnation version to the V&A.

Jerry Hall wears Yuki on the cover of British Vogue, July 1976. Photo: Barry Lategan

Jerry Hall wears Yuki on the cover of British Vogue, July 1976. Photo: Barry Lategan. Image: Pinterest.

Hunnicutt wore two Yuki pieces in her 1973 British Vogue editorial. The second, low-backed gown is carnation jersey, cut in one piece. She later wore it to a ball at Windsor Castle.

Gayle Hunnicutt in Yuki, British Vogue, October 1973. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: Pinterest.

VogueUK 1Oct 1973Yuki

Gayle Hunnicutt in Yuki, British Vogue, October 1973. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: Youthquakers.

Yuki also designed the costumes for Frank D. Gilroy’s romantic comedy Once in Paris… (1978), which starred his client, Hunnicutt.

Embed from Getty Images

Style Patterns’ earliest designer series includes two Yuki designs. Both dresses, one a voluminous one size fits all, showcase his trademark draping.

1980s Yuki dress pattern Style 4489

Style 4489 by Yuki (1985)

Misses’ Dress in Two Lengths: Dress is gathered from yoke. Draped sleeves are raglan. Opening is button loops. All edges are topstitched. Suggested fabrics—Fine silk or synthetic jersey, lightweight silk types, lightweight crepe types, crepe de chine, georgette. One size.

1980s Yuki dress pattern Style 4490

Style 4490 by Yuki (1985)

Misses’ Dress in Two Lengths: Dress has fitted under-bodice with draped front and back, which is gathered on padded shoulder and forms fluted sleeve. Skirt is slim with centre back split on full length version. Suggested fabrics—Fine silk or synthetic jersey, lightweight silk types, crepe types, crepe de chine.

Click the Style Patterns tag for more British designer patterns.

Yuki gown featured in Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950

Yuki gown featured in Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 (V&A, 2012) Photo: David Hughes. Image: The Cut.

Summer 2018 Designer Pattern Highlights

April 15, 2018 § 11 Comments

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Spring 2017

A look from Guy Laroche Spring 2017. Image: vogue.com.

The new designer patterns for Summer 2018 play with texture and special fabrics. Lace, seersucker, matelassé, waffle georgette, even a laser-cut textile makes an appearance.

Vogue’s summer cover look is by Nicola Finetti.

Nicola Finetti dress V1587 on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2018

Vogue 1587 by Nicola Finetti, Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2018. Image: McCall’s.

The matelassé cocktail dress with shaped hemline and flounce sleeves is from Nicola Finetti Fall 2016.

Nicola Finetti dress pattern Vogue 1587

Vogue 1587 by Nicola Finetti (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Finetti also showed a longer, front-zip version of V1587. Just trim down the A-line skirt and add a midriff panel:

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016. Images: Not Just A Label.

This season’s backless showpiece is by Adam Andrascik for Laroche: a long-sleeved dress with front bodice drape and slim, layered skirt. Use a semi-sheer fabric for the full effect.

Guy Laroche dress pattern by Adam Andrascik Vogue 1589

Vogue 1589 by Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The original is textured silk georgette in a chartreuse-tinged shade of La La Land yellow.

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik Spring 2017 V1589

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Spring 2017. Image: vogue.com.

Andrascik showed two takes on the backless V1589 dress. (A famously backless, ’70s Guy Laroche gown is a perennial inspiration for today’s Laroche designers. French actor Mireille Darc’s gown, worn in the 1972 comedy Le grand blond avec une chaussure noire, also informed Hilary Swank’s Oscar dress.) Here, the V1589 dress is seen backstage:

Backstage at Guy Laroche Spring 2017

Backstage at Guy Laroche Spring 2017. Image: Guy Laroche/Instagram.

On a black, sleeveless version, bead chains dangled from silver appliques:

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik Spring 2017

Guy Laroche by Adam Andrascik, Spring 2017. Image: vogue.com.

Judging from the pattern number, the second Laroche may have been delayed from Vogue’s spring release. From Marcel Marongiu, it’s a long-sleeved dress with contrast collar, cuffs, and curved contrast panels in front and back.

Marcel Marongiu for Guy Laroche dress pattern Vogue 1577

Vogue 1577 by Marcel Marongiu for Guy Laroche (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Revered American designer Claire McCardell was the inspiration for Marongiu’s last collection for Laroche. The V1577 dress was shown both long-sleeved and sleeveless:

Guy Laroche dress by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015

Guy Laroche by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015. Image: Guy Laroche.

Guy Laroche dress by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015

Guy Laroche by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015. Image: Guy Laroche.

As a grey and white coat dress, it swaps the button placket for jumbo exposed zippers:

Guy Laroche coatdress by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015

Guy Laroche by Marcel Marongiu, Spring 2015. Image: Guy Laroche.

Marongiu’s shift dress version, with giant paillettes, was featured in the Laroche advertising campaign by Steve Hiett. Hiett also photographed the V1589 dress for Spring ’17:

Guy Laroche Spring 2015 giant pailette shift dresses by Marcel Marongiu

Guy Laroche Spring 2015 by Marcel Marongiu. Images: Guy Laroche.

Guy Laroche Spring 2015 ad campaign photographed by Steve Hiett

New from Rachel Comey: the Popcorn dress. The Comey staple is shown in Spring 2017’s seersucker.

Rachel Comey's Popcorn dress pattern, Vogue 1585

Vogue 1585 by Rachel Comey (2018) Popcorn dress. Image: McCall’s.

The pullover dress works for both solids and prints—even print-mixing with contrast skirt inserts. The current version is black rayon.

Rachel Comey's Popcorn dress in black rayon, 2017

Rachel Comey’s Popcorn dress, 2017. Image: Rachel Comey.

In her Spring 2007 collection, presented at the Altman building during New York Fashion Week, Comey showed the dress both loose and belted.

Rachel Comey Spring 2007

Rachel Comey Spring 2007. Images: ELLE.

Rachel Comey SS 2007 backstage

Backstage at Rachel Comey Spring 2007. Photos: Randy Brooke/WireImage.

A closer look reveals the print-mixing. There are only two prints here, with one, reminiscent of Biba’s famous banana print, in three colourways:

Rachel Comey Spring 2007

Rachel Comey Spring 2007. Images: firstVIEW.

The Summer patterns include two lace looks from Rebecca Vallance: a cutout dress and the Dolce Vita jumpsuit. (There’s one dress left at the Outnet.) The Dolce Vita is a cropped, wide-leg jumpsuit tied with grosgrain ribbon:

Rebecca Vallance Dolce Vita jumpsuit pattern Vogue 1591

Vogue 1591 by Rebecca Vallance (2018) Image: McCall’s.

The jumpsuit is from Rebecca Vallance Summer 2016.

Rebecca Vallance Summer 2016

Rebecca Vallance Summer 2016. Image: Rebecca Vallance/Instagram.

Simplicity’s latest from Cynthia Rowley is a flounce-sleeved lace dress with two neckline variations. Choose from off the shoulder or scoop neck.

Cynthia Rowley ruffle sleeve lace dress pattern Simplicity 8599

Simplicity 8599 by Cynthia Rowley (2018) Image: Simplicity.

Rowley presented her Spring 2017 collection in a “feathered snow globe” at her West Village townhouse. (See WWD.) As photographed by frequent collaborator William Eadon, the S8599 dress is layered, maximalist-style, under an appliquéd satin smock:

CynthiaRowleySpring2017_5 William Eadon

Cynthia Rowley Spring 2017. Photo: William Eadon. Image: vogue.com.

The original dress had a contrast back bodice:

Cynthia Rowley red lace ruffle sleeve dress SS 2017Cynthia Rowley red lace ruffle sleeve dress back SS 2017

Seeing designers’ alternate looks for the Spring/Summer pattern designs, it’s striking how Vogue no longer provides variant views in their designer line, whereas for Simplicity, it’s built in to the business. But armed with reference photos, it’s easy to transform a design.

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016 photographed by Marissa Alden

Nicola Finetti Fall 2016. Photo: Marissa Alden. Model: Morven MacSween. Image: Nicola Finetti/Instagram.

The Gathering of the Clans

April 6, 2018 § 1 Comment

The Gathering of the Clans, vintage tartan girl's dress pattern McCall's 2083 by illustrator Sydelle Hall

The Gathering of the Clans, McCall’s Pattern Book, Fall 1956. Illustration: Sydelle Hall.

In honour of Tartan Day, a mid-century schoolgirl in the Royal Stewart tartan.

Pattern: McCall’s 2083.

In memoriam: Hubert de Givenchy

March 12, 2018 § 3 Comments

"Couture in Colour": Shalom Harlow in a velvet and organza gown from Hubert de Givenchy's final couture collection (FW 1995)

Shalom Harlow in a gown from Hubert de Givenchy’s final couture collection, British Vogue, October 1995. Photo: Nick Knight. Editor: Lucinda Chambers. Image: TFS.

Farewell to Hubert de Givenchy, truly one of the greats.

Read the couturier’s Vogue Paris obituary.

Mirella Petteni

February 13, 2018 § 3 Comments

Mirella Petteni photographed by Helmut Newton in Venice, 1966

Mirella Petteni in Venice, 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Tumblr.

Happy Mardi Gras! To celebrate the last day of Carnival, here’s a look at the star of Helmut Newton’s 1966 Venetian shoot: Italian model and socialite Mirella Petteni Haggiag.

Born in Bergamo, Mirella Petteni moved to Milan to work as a model. As the wife of film producer Robert Haggiag, Petteni was also a society figure with residences in Venice, Tuscany, New York, and Rome’s Palazzo Mengarini. (See T magazine.) She retired from modelling to become an editor at Vogue Italia.

Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Sweet Jane.

Petteni can be seen on many Vogue Couturier Designs by Italian designers.

Mirella Petteni in Pucci

Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

Vogue 1397 by Pucci, March 1965 retail catalogue

Vogue 1397 by Pucci, March 1965 retail catalogue. Image: Pinterest.

Petteni also appears in a Vogue holiday editorial that includes two Vogue Special designs (Vogue 6084 and 6054):

Vogue 6084 and 6054

In Vogue 6084 and 6054, Vogue, December 1963. Photos: Irving Penn? Image: Youthquakers.

Here she wears Galitzine’s halter and culotte:

Vogue 1393 by Galitzine (1964) Image: Etsy.

Here, in Pucci’s bestselling cape-jacket ensemble, Petteni’s aspirational hair is an added bonus:

1960s Pucci pink ensemble pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1394

Vogue 1394 by Pucci (1964) Image: Etsy.

Image: Etsy.

In white dresses from Fabiani and Forquet:

1960s Forquet 2-piece dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1402

Vogue 1402 by Federico Forquet (1964). Image: Create-Everyday.

1960s Fabiani dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1866

Vogue 1866 by Fabiani (1967) Image: Etsy.

1960s Fabiani dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1899

Vogue 1899 by Fabiani (1968) Image: Etsy.

Sorbet colour-blocking from Pucci:

1960s Pucci culotte pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1865

Vogue 1865 by Pucci (1967) Image: Etsy.

1960s Pucci dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1955

Vogue 1955 by Pucci (1968) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

In Forquet’s short, half-bias evening dress:

1960s Forquet dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1957

Vogue 1957 by Federico Forquet (1968) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Here she poses with Benedetta Barzini in early Valentino:

Benedetta Barzini and Mirella Petteni in Valentino, at Agnese Bruguier's apartment in the Palazzo Borghese, Rome, 1968

Benedetta Barzini and Mirella Petteni in Valentino, at Agnese Bruguier’s apartment in the Palazzo Borghese, Rome, Vogue, September 1968. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: tumblr.

Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: tumblr.

Spring 2018 Designer Highlights

January 25, 2018 § Leave a comment

Catherine Nako wears a Tracy Reese dress at Red’s Jazz Shoe Shine Parlor, Detroit. Photo: Ray Rushing. Image: Instagram.

Have you seen the new designer patterns for Spring 2018?

Badgley Mischka are celebrating their fifth wedding anniversary this March, so it’s a treat to see their work on the cover of Vogue’s Spring lookbook. (Click their portrait for my 2013 Just Married post.)

Badgley Mischka Key Lime cape dress V1579 - Vogue Patterns Spring 2018 lookbook

Badgley Mischka dress V1579 on the cover of the Vogue Patterns Spring 2018 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

1990s Badgley Mischka photo

The Spring collection also marks the return of Tracy Reese. (The Detroit native was last seen in Vogue Patterns in 2016.) The new Reese design is a dress with contrast yoke and sleeves—great for those matching sheer/opaque print combos:

Vogue 1578 by Tracy Reese

Vogue 1578 by Tracy Reese (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Sew Today’s latest issue tipped us off to Reese’s comeback:

Tracy Reese dress on the cover of Sew Today, February 2018. Image: sewdirect.

The dark floral was a signature print in her Fall 2016 collection, where it could be seen on dresses, sheer blouses, and a long, cuffed skirt:

Tracy Reese Fall 2016 collection

Tracy Reese Fall 2016 collection. Image: Vogue.com

Tracy Reese Fall 2016 collection

Tracy Reese Fall 2016 collection. Image: Vogue.com.

Reese was inspired by Detroit for this collection, and she opened her presentation with a short film starring local model Catherine Nako:

The film stills are by Detroit-based cinematographer Ray Rushing.

Catherine Nako in Tracy Reese Fall 2016. Photo: Ray Rushing. Image: Instagram.

Bonus: I published my Winter/Holiday post before the McCall’s Winter release, which included two Nicole Miller patterns. This asymmetrical top and flared trousers look to be from the Spring 2017 collection:

2017 Nicole Miller top and pants pattern McCall's 7692

McCall’s 7692 by Nicole Miller (2017) Image: McCall’s.

Nicole Miller Spring 2017 collection

Nicole Miller Spring 2017 collection. Image: Vogue UK.

Miller’s Gladiator gown uses contrast binding to punctuate the classic goddess dress. (Still available in white from the designer’s retail site.)

2017 Nicole Miller Gladiator goddess dress pattern McCall's 7685

McCall’s 7685 by Nicole Miller (2017) Image: McCall’s.

The original was silk chiffon.

Nicole Miller's Gladiator gown in orange silk chiffon with pink trim

Nicole Miller’s Gladiator gown. Image: Rent the Runway.

See you in the arena!

Free Designer Pattern: Alyx Pleat Dress

January 21, 2018 § 1 Comment

At the V&A in the Alyx pleat dress. Photo: Britt Lloyd. Model: Jazzelle Zanaughtti

At the V&A in the Alyx pleat dress. Photo: Britt Lloyd. Model: Jazzelle Zanaughtti. Image: SHOWstudio.

The new Design Download from SHOWstudio is an Alyx shirtdress. Alyx was founded in 2015 by Matthew M. Williams, a well-connected American designer now based in Ferrara, Italy. (For more, see Emilia Petrarca, “Kanye West and LVMH-Approved: Meet Designer Matthew Williams” and Matthew Schneier, “Matthew Williams, Renaissance Man.”)

For the Alyx Fall 2017 collection, Williams was inspired by Berlin fetish clubs. The pleat dress was shown in two versions—black leopard print:

Model: Siouxsie Leenaars. Image: vogue.com.

And silver lamé:

Model: Siouxsie Leenaars. Image: vogue.com.

For more views see the Alyx retail site (silver | black).

Watch a video of Williams discussing a piece from the Alyx Spring ’18 menswear collection:

This year’s competition prize is an Alyx catalogue shot by Nick Knight. (Season unspecified.)

Alyx Natural Order catalogue (Fall 2016) photographed by Nick Knight

Alyx Natural Order catalogue (Fall 2016) photographed by Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

As before, the pattern download comes in a choice of A4 or A1 sheets, each with a test line to check the scale.

Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the dress pattern (22 pieces)

Size: M

Notes: The original was silk. Skirt has bagged lining. Calls for fusible interfacing for the collar, cuffs, etc.

Notions: 3 small buttons, 7 smaller buttons + additional for concealed skirt closure; contrasting thread for edge stitching, bar tacks, piping, and belt loops.

Stay tuned for the submissions gallery: the contest closes March 30th, 2018. (Deadline updated.)

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