Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.
The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.
In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.
The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.
A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.
Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.
For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.
It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)
The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.
Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.
For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.
My Winter patterns report comes a little late: I’ve been busy working to save a historic hotel-turned-tavern here in Hamilton. (Read my op-ed | #SaveHanrahans) Without further ado, here’s a look at the last patterns of the decade.
Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook with V1656 by Badgley Mischka. Image: Issuu.
Vogue’s cover look is a white jersey gown from Badgley Mischka. As worn on the pattern envelope by new model Shaya Ali:
The new Guy Laroche — a minimalist pantsuit with contrast trim — is the company’s first by Richard René.
Vogue 1666 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2019) Image: McCall’s.
René’s second collection for Laroche was inspired by art brut and the graphic potential of a blank sheet of paper. According to Vogue, he showed structured pieces for strong personalities, with details like “stand-up edging that adds a cape-like extra inch or two to the shoulders.”
Guy Laroche Fall 2018 by Richard René. Image: Vogue Runway.
From Cynthia Rowley, a pattern for the Eden dress and top.
Simplicity 9012 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.
The original Eden dress in polished cotton. (The top version is a lightweight printed cotton: webstore | Rent the Runway.)
Cynthia Rowley’s Eden dress in polished cotton. Image: Cynthia Rowley / Pinterest.
This flounced dress by Cynthia Rowley is seen variously in the designer’s Inverness Fish print and bias-cut silk lamé.
Simplicity 9013 by Cynthia Rowley (2019) Image: Simplicity.
Rowley’s longtime collaborator William Eadon photographed the lookbook in her hometown of Barrington, Illinois. The lookbook was styled by her daughter, Kit Keenan.
For a subtle variation, close the front bodice seam.
Inverness Fish mini dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
These pleated trousers are adapted from Celine by Hedi Slimane.
Vogue 1661 after Celine by Hedi Slimane (2019) Image: McCall’s.Hedi Slimane for Celine Fall 2019 Model: Marland Backus. Image: Vogue Runway.
McCall’s chic cover look is a version of Max Mara’s hooded cape coat.
McCall’s lookbook, Winter 2019. Image: Issuu.McCall’s 8029 after Max Mara (2019)
Here’s the Max Mara original in cashmere twill:
Max Mara Pugnale cape in blush cashmere. Image: Matches Fashion.
Vogue Couturier patterns are the original Vogue designer knockoffs. The new Vintage Vogue is a Couturier coat from 1949:
Vogue 490 (1949) Image: eBay.“Fashions for the life she leads” – Vogue, September 1949. Illustrations: Dagmar Freuchen-Gale.Vogue 1669 (2019) Image: McCall’s.Vintage Vogue 1669 on the cover of the Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday 2019 lookbook. Image: Issuu.
The new Custom Fit patterns are also designer adaptations. View A of V1654 is after Gucci.
Vogue 1654 after Gucci (2019) Image: McCall’s.Gucci grosgrain-trimmed stretch-ponte mini dress. Image: net-a-porter.
And V1667 is a version of Prabal Gurung’s tulip sleeve jacket. (Trousers not included.)
Vogue 1667 after Prabal Gurung (2019) Image: McCall’s.
The tulip-sleeve suit comes in many variations, such as zebra print, sequins, and an ecru check. The latter is a very fine houndstooth in stretch poly-viscose.
PatternVault 