Spring 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Tatyana Cooper wears bodycon dress pattern V1674 on the cover of the Spring 2020 Vogue Patterns lookbook — Vogue Patterns lookbook for Spring 2020. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

It’s nearly the equinox: time for my Spring patterns report. As I mentioned back in December, I’ve been busy with other projects. I’m happy to share that my campaign to save Hanrahan’s, a historic Hamilton hotel turned tavern, was successful! (Read my latest op-ed | front page news | local news coverage.)

Huge thanks to now-retired columnist Paul Wilson, who first got the word out about this fascinating Edwardian hotel.

Recently, there’s also been some major pattern industry news. More on that in a moment — but first, a look at the first patterns of the decade.

Vogue’s second pattern by Richard René, the new designer for Laroche, is an oversized, colour-blocked pantsuit from the Spring 2019 collection.

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019 collection — Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.

Guy Laroche colour block pantsuit pattern by Richard René - Vogue 1687 — Vogue 1687 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Last June, British Vogue’s Venetia Scott paired the Laroche jacket with trousers by Issey Miyake.

Rianne van Rompaey in Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake, photographed by Theo Sion & styled by Venetia Scott, British Vogue, June 2019 — Pieces by Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake in British *Vogue*, June 2019. Model: Rianne van Rompaey. Photo: Theo Sion. Editor: Venetia Scott. Image: Vogue UK.

From Rachel Comey, the Agave pantsuit, as worn for the Spring 2019 lookbook by Guinevere van Seenus.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019 – Agave jacket and Divide pant. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.

Rachel Comey Agave jacket and Divide trousers pattern V1688 as worn by Amber Mitchell — Vogue 1688 by Rachel Comey (2020) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The Divide pant also comes in cropped and colour-blocked versions, or embellished with sequins:

Rachel Comey Divide pant in black and white wool. Image: The Dresslyn.

Rachel Comey Divide pant in red wool with sequin embellishment. — Rachel Comey Divide pant in crimson red wool with sequin embellishment. Image: Moda Operandi.

Comey’s licensing with Vogue Patterns began in Spring, 2010. A decade later, the company finally gave the popular designer a catalogue cover.

V1688 by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Spring 2020. Model: Amber Mitchell. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

Last fall, Zandra Rhodes celebrated her jubilee with a retrospective and catalogue from Yale University Press, Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion.

Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion by Dennis Nothdruft with Zandra Rhodes and Iris Apfel, Yale 2019 — Dennis Nothdruft, *Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion* (Yale University Press 2019) Image: Zandra Rhodes.

The new Zandra Rhodes pattern is a boho bias dress with contrast sleeve and hem flounces. Fine finishing details include narrow hems and a bias-bound neckline.

Zandra Rhodes dress pattern V1676 — Vogue 1676 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

McCall’s has a fresh new logo for 2020, when the company celebrates its 150th anniversary. But thus far, no new designer patterns.

M8049 — McCall’s Early Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

M8089 — McCall’s Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: McCall’s.

And this month, Britain’s IG Design Group Plc completed its acquisition of CSS Industries, the parent company of McCall’s and Simplicity. (Details at Design Group’s site and Business Wire.) CSS acquired The McCall Pattern Company in 2016 and Simplicity Creative Group in 2017.

Will Design Group revive Vogue Patterns Magazine, a storied publication that dates back a century, or divest the pattern side of the business entirely? Stay tuned for more coverage of McCall’s 150th and other milestones for 2020!

Guy Laroche Spring 2019 in Schön! magazine. Model: Tetiuksha. Photo: Dylan Perlot. Editors: Sofia Giordano and Hugo Asensio. Image: Instagram.

9 thoughts on “Spring 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights”

I can’t help thinking that the age of designer sewing pattern collaborations is coming to an end, but I really hope I’m wrong.

Susan says:

March 16, 2020 at 8:33 am

I would love to see Vogue Patterns magazine revived. It was my favorite fashion magazine and I miss it.

Reply

Here in the UK, the Big4 patterns are sold by Sew Direct who publish a magazine 10/12 times a year under that title which provides the same material as that contained in Vogue Pattern Magazine. When I came back to sewing about six years ago was puzzled that I could no longer find Vogue Pattern Magazine, now I know. Perhaps Sew Direct will be available elsewhere in future. The Big4 patterns are available from other outlets, of course.

As a guy who sews and have been sewing most of my life, today’s big 4 sewing patterns are extremely unattractive. I use to purchase vogue, butterick mccalls, (mainly vogue) patterns back in the early 90’s there was more designer content, my favorites were dkny/donna karan, issey miyake, anne klein, montana, and vogue’s individualist patterns. Today most of the vogue designer patterns are just awful. There are very few things i would make. Given that i have moved to using some simplicity patterns and stylearc from australia. i also use burda patterns since these patterns are well drafted. The big 4 use to have more men’s patterns, but sadly, these have either gone or all they have is pajamas and costumes. Very Sad