Zandra Rhodes – PatternVault

Rachel Comey yellow taffeta puff-sleeve dress, Resort 2020 — Detail, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.

As Vogue Patterns was settling in under its new, British ownership, two seasons have gone by without my usual pattern report. I’ve been busy with the campaign to save the beautiful, historic St. Giles church here in Hamilton, Ontario. (If you want to help, please sign the petition here!)

Vogue 1777 Tempo dress pattern by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021 — V1777 by Rachel Comey, Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021. Image: Issuu.

V1813, Vogue Patterns lookbook Summer 2021. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s spring cover look is a Rachel Comey dress from the Fall 2019 collection.

Rachel Comey Tempo dress on the Fall 2019 runway — Tempo dress, Rachel Comey Fall 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.

A loose midi dress with front pleats, the Tempo dress was shown in stretch poly-rayon suiting and a silk scarf print.

Samya is 5’9.5” (176 cm) and wears a size 4 A sister to the Ardent Jumpsuit, the Tempo Dress is a waisted pleat front dress with midi length. It has a slightly loose, off the body fit which allows the pleats to move and for the whole style to drape around the neckline. Innsbruck is one of our favorite suiting fabrics; it holds structure while having enough stretch to provide flexibility and comfort. — Rachel Comey’s Tempo dress in Pink New Innsbruck. Image: Rachel Comey.

Nora is 5’10.5” (179 cm) and wears a size 4 The pine cone, a new motif in our PF20 collection, has long been associated with enlightenment and intuition. Based on archival artwork from a historic Italian mill and inspired by vintage scarves, the print placement of Pine Cone Foulard is unique to each silhouette. The Tempo Dress is a waisted, pleat-front dress with midi length. It has a slightly loose, off the body fit suited to natural movement. — Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2020: Tempo dress in a silk scarf print. Image: Rachel Comey.

V1777 Tempo dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021) — V1777 by Rachel Comey (2021) Tempo dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

For summer, there were two more Rachel Comey dresses, both from Resort 2020. The Lurie dress is silk-blend taffeta with metal mesh trim, in black or Citron:

Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black taffeta — Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black. Image: Shopbop.

Rachel Comey Resort 2020 lookbook: Lurie dress in Citron taffeta — Lurie dress in Citron, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.

V1798 Lurie dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021) — V1798 by Rachel Comey (2021) Lurie dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

The New Cardiff dress is a longer, topstitched version of the Cardiff dress, which features unfinished hems:

Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal. Image: Pinterest.

Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal: detail showing raw sleeve edge with stay stitching — Rachel Comey Cardiff dress detail. Image: Lyst.

The long, denim New Cardiff dress made quarantine-dressing trend lists early in the pandemic. As seen in Sky or Sherbert denim:

Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Refinery 29.

V1799 Cardiff dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021) — V1799 by Rachel Comey (2021) Cardiff dress in Sherbert denim. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

From Guy Laroche by Richard René, a one-sleeved jumpsuit with attached half-jacket from the Spring 2020 collection. If I’ve translated my Russian right, it is cotton:

Guy Laroche white jumpsuit on the Spring 2020 runway — Guy Laroche by Richard René Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.

комбинезон из хлопка - jumpsuit of cotton, Guy Laroche — Guy Laroche jumpsuit, *Elle Russia*, June 2020. Model: Catherine McNeil. Photo: Gilles Bensimon. Editor: Vadim Galaganov. Image: Elle.ru.

V1790 jumpsuit pattern by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021) — V1790 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Playing with grain and stripes is the focus of two recent Zandra Rhodes patterns. For summer, a dress with bell-flounce sleeves and handkerchief hem:

V1796 pink striped handkerchief dress pattern by Zandra Rhodes (2021) — V1796 by Zandra Rhodes (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

From the Winter release, there was this long-sleeved maxi dress from Rhodes’ Victoriana-inspired Fall 2019 collection, entitled The Golden Hour and exclusive to Liberty.

Zandra Rhodes long-sleeved maxi dress, Fall 2019 — Zandra Rhodes Fall 2019. Photo: Richard Dowker. Image: WWD.

Vogue 1762 dress pattern by Zandra Rhodes (2020) — Vogue 1762 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Vogue has gone silent on their #SewTheLook designer adaptations. But in the Spring-Summer patterns, one inspiration is very recognizable — from SHOWstudio’s Spring 2020 free McQueen pattern.

Vilma Sjöberg on the Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 runway — Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Vilma Sjöberg. Image: Vogue Runway.

V1782 dress after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021) — V1782 after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Finally, could the new Vintage Vogue be a Schiaparelli knockoff?

Caroline Mathis in Vintage Vogue top V1809, ca. 1947 — V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue top, ca. 1947. Model: Caroline Mathis. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

V1809 (2021) Reissue circa 1947 design. — V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue reissue from ca. 1947. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Vogue 6036 (1947) ROund dropped-shoulder yoke with deep lapped-seam finish, front and back. Gathers below yoke in front. — Vogue 6036 (1947) Image: eBay.

Add a high collar and lace trim, and you have a New Look-era Schiaparelli blouse, as seen in Vogue.

Schiaparelli blouse and hat, *Vogue*, April 1, 1947. Photo: Serge Balkin. Image: Vogue Archive.

Tatyana Cooper wears bodycon dress pattern V1674 on the cover of the Spring 2020 Vogue Patterns lookbook — Vogue Patterns lookbook for Spring 2020. Model: Tatyana Cooper. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

It’s nearly the equinox: time for my Spring patterns report. As I mentioned back in December, I’ve been busy with other projects. I’m happy to share that my campaign to save Hanrahan’s, a historic Hamilton hotel turned tavern, was successful! (Read my latest op-ed | front page news | local news coverage.)

Huge thanks to now-retired columnist Paul Wilson, who first got the word out about this fascinating Edwardian hotel.

Recently, there’s also been some major pattern industry news. More on that in a moment — but first, a look at the first patterns of the decade.

Vogue’s second pattern by Richard René, the new designer for Laroche, is an oversized, colour-blocked pantsuit from the Spring 2019 collection.

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019 collection — Guy Laroche by Richard René, Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.

Guy Laroche colour block pantsuit pattern by Richard René - Vogue 1687 — Vogue 1687 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Last June, British Vogue’s Venetia Scott paired the Laroche jacket with trousers by Issey Miyake.

Rianne van Rompaey in Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake, photographed by Theo Sion & styled by Venetia Scott, British Vogue, June 2019 — Pieces by Guy Laroche and Issey Miyake in British *Vogue*, June 2019. Model: Rianne van Rompaey. Photo: Theo Sion. Editor: Venetia Scott. Image: Vogue UK.

From Rachel Comey, the Agave pantsuit, as worn for the Spring 2019 lookbook by Guinevere van Seenus.

Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019 – Agave jacket and Divide pant. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.

Rachel Comey Agave jacket and Divide trousers pattern V1688 as worn by Amber Mitchell — Vogue 1688 by Rachel Comey (2020) Model: Amber Mitchell. Image: McCall’s.

The Divide pant also comes in cropped and colour-blocked versions, or embellished with sequins:

Rachel Comey Divide pant in black and white wool. Image: The Dresslyn.

Rachel Comey Divide pant in red wool with sequin embellishment. — Rachel Comey Divide pant in crimson red wool with sequin embellishment. Image: Moda Operandi.

Comey’s licensing with Vogue Patterns began in Spring, 2010. A decade later, the company finally gave the popular designer a catalogue cover.

V1688 by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Spring 2020. Model: Amber Mitchell. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: Issuu.

Last fall, Zandra Rhodes celebrated her jubilee with a retrospective and catalogue from Yale University Press, Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion.

Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion by Dennis Nothdruft with Zandra Rhodes and Iris Apfel, Yale 2019 — Dennis Nothdruft, *Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion* (Yale University Press 2019) Image: Zandra Rhodes.

The new Zandra Rhodes pattern is a boho bias dress with contrast sleeve and hem flounces. Fine finishing details include narrow hems and a bias-bound neckline.

Zandra Rhodes dress pattern V1676 — Vogue 1676 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.

McCall’s has a fresh new logo for 2020, when the company celebrates its 150th anniversary. But thus far, no new designer patterns.

M8049 — McCall’s Early Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

M8089 — McCall’s Spring 2020 lookbook. Image: McCall’s.

And this month, Britain’s IG Design Group Plc completed its acquisition of CSS Industries, the parent company of McCall’s and Simplicity. (Details at Design Group’s site and Business Wire.) CSS acquired The McCall Pattern Company in 2016 and Simplicity Creative Group in 2017.

Will Design Group revive Vogue Patterns Magazine, a storied publication that dates back a century, or divest the pattern side of the business entirely? Stay tuned for more coverage of McCall’s 150th and other milestones for 2020!