Patterns in Vogue: Peggy Dillard

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Black and white Vogue editorial photo of a smiling Black model in a belted shirt dress with the headline, "The first thing you're going to want is... a Dress."
Peggy Dillard in a shirt dress made from a pattern by Christian Aujard (Bagatelle knit tie, Rafael serape, Mulberry Company belt), Vogue, August 1977. Photo: Bob Richardson. Image: Vogue Archive.

In 1977, Peggy Dillard became the second Black woman to make the cover of U.S. Vogue. Born in Greenville, South Carolina, Dillard (b. 1956) went on to become an artist and entrepreneur; she started modelling when she was a fashion student. Inside her first cover issue, she also appears in a Bob Richardson pattern editorial.

The patterns are two Vogue French Boutique designs by Christian Aujard, Vogue 1687 and Vogue 1685, both edited by Vogue to show the trend for cozy, oversized dresses. (“If you sew, here’s how to get ahead of the game.”) The shirt dress is a rhubarb pinwale Crompton cotton corduroy, while the wrap dress is a beige cashmere/silk knit from Sewing Associates.

Black and white Vogue editorial photo of a Black model in a wrap dress accessorized with a textured scarf and belt
Peggy Dillard wears a dress made from a blouse pattern by Christian Aujard (Sirius serape; Rosemary Peck belt), Vogue, August 1977. Photo: Bob Richardson. Image: Vogue Archive.

In the back of the magazine, readers could find the details on how to sew Vogue’s versions:

The pullover shirt to make as a dress. Vogue Pattern 1687 … For size 10 (50 1/2” dress-length, measured in back from base of neck): 3 3/8 yds. 44/45” fabric. … Pattern note: we eliminated pockets and sleeve tabs, and added side slits.

The shirt to make as a dress and wrap. Vogue Pattern 1685 … For size 10 (same length as above): 3 yds. 58/60” fabric. Pattern note: we left off buttons and buttonholes.

Dillard can also be seen on a handful of Vogue Patterns circa 1979, as well as a Scott Barrie feature in Vogue Patterns magazine. Click the cover image below to view the issue:

1970s U.S. Vogue cover with a smiling Black model wearing a rust-coloured scarf and striped top (text: super! ... soft sexy sportswear, etc.)
Peggy Dillard in Stephen Burrows on the cover of American Vogue, August 1977. Photo: Albert Watson. Image: Vogue Archive.

4 responses to “Patterns in Vogue: Peggy Dillard”

  1. Susan Avatar

    Interesting. This is the first time I have seen Vogue patterns with the French Boutique banner. Was that only used for a short time?

    1. Sarah Sheehan Avatar

      Thanks, Susan. Good guess. The Vogue French Boutique line seems to have lasted for 4 years or so, starting in 1976. I’m planning a series on short-lived pattern lines, so thanks for jogging my memory on this one!

      1. Susan Avatar

        Looking forward to that.

  2. Tee Avatar

    Love this🩷

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