Grace Coddington at 80

Detail, “Brief Encounter,” Vogue, December 1991. Photo: Helmut Newton. Editor: Grace Coddinton. Image: Vogue Archive.

Last month, the inimitable Grace Coddington turned 80. (Read her reminiscence in British Vogue here.) To celebrate, here is a selection of Coddington images featuring Vogue patterns, created in collaboration with Peter Lindbergh, Ellen von Unwerth, and Helmut Newton.

"Seeing Spots" 7054 Women's robe and shorts (1987) "Additional information: shorten shorts."
Naomi Campbell in V7054 in “Seeing Spots,” Vogue, June 1990. Photo: Peter Lindbergh. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue Archive.
Christy Turlington in V2478 by Donna Karan, “Jean Seberg,” Vogue, October 1990. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue Archive.
Helena Christensen in V7960 with Cindy Crawford in Saint-Tropez in “Brief Encounter,” Vogue, December 1991. Photo: Helmut Newton. Editor: Grace Coddinton. Image: Vogue Archive.

Happy belated birthday, Ms. Coddington!

Grace Coddington models Hayfield 495: Hayfield Bri-Nylon Patterns Designed by Vogue Knitting (1966) Image: Knitting Now and Then.

Libération at 50

Yves Saint Laurent smoking and shorts, Libération (SS 1971 couture) "Les nouvelles vamps" photographed by Dominique Laporte, L'Officiel March 1971
Yves Saint Laurent smoking and shorts, Spring 1971 haute couture (Libération). “Les nouvelles vamps,” L’Officiel no. 583 (March 1971). Photo: Dominique Laporte. Image: jalougallery.com.

Yves Saint Laurent’s landmark Spring 1971 haute couture collection, Libération, is 50. For more on the designer’s Libération collection, see my 2015 post here.

Yves Saint Laurent 1971: la collection du scandale. Exposition du 19 mars au 19 juillet 2015 - Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent 1971: la collection du scandale. Model: Willy Van Rooy. Photo: Hans Feurer.
John Cowan, Yves Saint Laurent Libération collection opening the Paris report in Vogue, March 15, 1971
Yves Saint Laurent Libération collection in Vogue, March 15, 1971. Photo: John Cowan. Image: Vogue Archive.

Saint Laurent unveiled the collection in Paris on January 29, 1971. Licensed Libération patterns were available from Vogue the next season, photographed by the late Frank Horvat.

1970s Yves Saint Laurent dress pattern - Vogue 2571
Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.
1970s Yves Saint Laurent three-piece suit pattern - Vogue 2598
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.

The Libération dress pattern was also seen in this textiles ad:

Knit-Away: Your Personal Knitter. Polyester double-knit advertisement with Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971
Knit-Away ad featuring Vogue 2571 by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971.

But the most popular of the two designs was the signature suit. Gianni Penati photographed the pantsuit, made up in black velvet, at the Richard Feigen Gallery in New York.

Gianni Penati, Vogue 2598 velvet pantsuit by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971. Now you can have black velvet from one end of the day to the other.... A perfect pants tailleur, with a trim little blazer and cuffed legs, turned out today with a white turtleneck sweater (tonight, tomorrow—white silk shirt and tie, black satin ribbon in your hair.)... " Both velvets of Acele acetate and Enka rayon by Martin Fabrics. (Trifari earrings; sweater by Korrigan for Jax; shoulderbag by Bill Smith for Mark Cross; Yves Saint Laurent shoes.)
Black velvet for day: Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent, Vogue, August 15, 1971. Photo: Gianni Penati. Model: Lynn Woodruff. Image: Vogue Archive.

Saint Laurent’s smoking, reenvisioned as as an embroidered evening jacket, even made the cover of Vogue.

 Vogue purple logo; Model Lynn Woodruff wearing a Vogue Pattern embroidered fabric jacket with red ruffle rose; Max Factor make-up and hair by Arthur of Kenneth
Yves Saint Laurent evening jacket V2598 on the cover of Vogue, January 15, 1972. Photo: Gianni Penati. Model: Lynn Woodruff. Image: Vogue Archive.
Gianni Penati, Vogue 2598 jacket by Yves Saint Laurent, 1972.  KJL earrings, Echo Designs scarf; flower by Dulken and Derrick; Golo shoes. Roman Stripe tights.
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (Rive Gauche pants), Vogue, January 15, 1972. Photo: Gianni Penati. Model: Lynn Woodruff. Image: Vogue Archive.
John Cowan, Editha Dussler in Paris, Yves Saint Laurent Libération pantsuit, 1971.
Yves Saint Laurent Libération pantsuit in Vogue, March 15, 1971. Photo: John Cowan. Model: Editha Dussler. Image: Vogue Archive.