Our Man in Leather: Bobby Breslau for Vogue Patterns
June 18, 2017 § 1 Comment
Bobby Breslau in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979. Photo: Charles Tracy.
“Our Man in Leather”: Vogue Patterns introduced Bobby Breslau, one of the company’s rare designers of accessories, with a winking acknowledgement of the gay community.
Bobby Breslau biographical note, Vogue 2184 (1979). Image: Etsy.
Bobby Breslau (ca. 1943-1987) was a friend of Halston, Stephen Burrows, and Keith Haring; photographer Charles Tracy, who took Breslau’s portrait, was a member of the same social circle. Breslau’s training was in the garment industry, but a toy commission from Halston set him on the path of accessory and furniture design. His tactile, unstructured style of bag showed a sculptor’s eye for colour and texture; the New York Times called it “the handbag of the 1970’s.” (See Robin Givhan’s The Battle of Versailles and Suzanne Slesin, “Beyond the Fringe: A Designer’s Zany World in Leather.”) Breslau was the manager of Keith Haring’s Pop Shop until his death from complications of AIDS in early 1987.
Breslau bag for Halston in Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (1999) Image: Behind the Seams.
In 1979, Breslau licensed two bag patterns with Vogue. Each design could be made in three sizes. Vogue 2153 is a “draw-stringer and scarf tie-up”:
Vogue 2153 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 2184 is a saddlebag and roll pouch:
Vogue 2184 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Just as Breslau’s unconstructed bag is back, so too are the brights of ’79. As Hannah Marriott writes, a trend for Lego colours is predicted for spring 2019…
Model with Breslau bag, Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979.
Taste the Infinite
June 11, 2017 § 5 Comments
Eight ways to wear an infinite dress. Sketch by Lydia Silvestry in Vogue, October 1976.
Summer means weddings and infinity dresses—or, if a couple is particularly on-trend, infinity bridesmaid jumpsuits.
TwoBirds bridesmaid jumpsuits, 2016. Image: Instagram.
China Machado’s summer 1973 resort set was a precursor to the infinity garments of the mid-1970s. Like the infinity dress and its cousins, Machado’s pieces call for two-way stretch knits; but Grace Mirabella’s Vogue featured the design in muslin, as worn by Beverly Johnson:
Very Easy Vogue 2881 by China Machado (1973) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Beverly Johnson in Vogue, May 1973. Photos: Kourken Pakchanian. Image: Youthquakers.
Lydia Silvestry trademarked “The Infinite Dress” and licensed it with McCall’s in 1976. As the pattern envelope says, “One size dress can be worn an infinite number of ways. See enclosed guide sheet illustrating 13 ways dress can be worn, or try creating your personal version.” (See Carmen Bouchard / Carmencita B’s posts about this pattern here.)
McCall’s 5360 by Lydia Silvestry (1976) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Silvestry also licensed her infinite jumpsuit as a pattern featuring Maud Adams. I think this pattern has my favourite fabric note: For best results use a Lightweight, Non-cling Stretchable Jersey-type Knit Fabric such as Rosewood Fabric’s LA GRAND QUE of 100% QIANA, Burlington’s AMBROSIA of 100% Dacron Polyester, Millikin’s SURE THING of 100% Dacron Polyester. (Click to view in the shop.)
McCall’s 5529 by Lydia Silvestry (1977) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
From Carol Horn, this dress has strapless and colour blocking options:
Vogue 1573 by Carol Horn (ca. 1977) Image: Etsy.
Also one-size, the Seven Way Wonder Dress seems to have been Butterick’s answer to the Infinite Dress. A winter retail catalogue shows the Wonder Dress as black tie wear:
Butterick 5230 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
The Wonder Dress – Wear It 7 Smashing Ways! Back cover of the Butterick retail catalogue, February 1977. Image: eBay.
Meanwhile, Simplicity had the Wonder Wrap Jiffy Jumpsuit and Jiffy Multi-Wrap Dress:
Simplicity 7957 (1976) Image: Etsy.
Simplicity 8086 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue released two Very Easy infinite dress patterns in spring, 1977:
Vogue 1640 (1977) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Vogue 1641 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 1641 is seldom seen, despite being illustrated by Antonio and photographed in Antigua for Vogue Patterns magazine:
Vogue 1641, Very Easy Vogue Patterns, May 1977. Illustration: Antonio. Image: Patterns from the Past.
Vogue 1641 in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1977. Model: Clotilde. Photo: Albert Watson. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Is that Patti Hansen modelling the Glamour Plus Dress?
Butterick 5683 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Fast forward to 2000, when McCall’s released an infinite dress by Debra Moises (Debra and Moises Diaz). The envelope shows 5 variations:
McCall’s 2781 by Debra Moises (2000) Image: eBay.
In early 2011, the New York Times ran a story about the trend for convertible garments (see Ruth La Ferla, “Convertible Clothing Is a New Twist for the Cost-Conscious“). Butterick featured an infinite dress (now out of print) on the cover of that year’s Spring catalogue:
Butterick 5606 on the cover of the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Butterick 5606 in the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Last summer, as part of their Archive Collection, McCall’s reissued their 1970s-era infinite dress and jumpsuit as a single pattern (still in print). These patterns are usually adapted somewhat from the vintage originals:
’70s Chic with Infinite Looks: M7384 in McCall’s lookbook, Early Summer 2016. Image: Issuu.
It’s easy to see why infinity dresses remain popular, with their carefree resort vibe and minimal fitting requirements. And on the pattern envelopes, the hall of mirrors effect never gets old, does it?
For more discussion and links, see Michelle Lee’s post.
Donna Karan’s jersey Infinity dress, 2011. Image: New York Times.
Motherhood, 1971
May 14, 2017 § 3 Comments
Vogue 7952 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.
In honour of Mother’s Day, some maternity images from an early ’70s Vogue Pattern Book.
That’s Vogue 7952 by the red Volkswagen bug. (Shoes: Charles Jourdan.) The other maternity patterns are Vogue 7382 and Vogue 8079.
Happy Mother’s Day!
Vogue 7382 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.
Vogue 8079 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.
“Motherhood” in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photos: Art Barclay.
Marisa Berenson
February 15, 2017 § Leave a comment
Marisa Berenson on the cover of Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Marisa Berenson (b. 1947) turns 70 today. Though best known for her work as a film actor in movies like Visconti’s Death in Venice (1971), Cabaret (1972), and Barry Lyndon (1975), Berenson grew up wanting to be a fashion model. Her career was launched when she met Diana Vreeland at a society ball, and she became one of the most successful models of the ’60s and ’70s. For more, see the visual biography Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures (Rizzoli, 2011).
Marisa Berenson as the Countess of Lyndon on the cover of Andy Warhol’s Interview, January 1975. Image: eBay.
As far as I know, Berenson appears on only one pattern envelope: Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta. Taken in a New York interior, the photo was also published in a 1970 Vogue Pattern Book feature on the designer:
Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta (1970) Image: Etsy.
Berenson can also be seen in Vreeland-era pattern editorials in Vogue magazine, like this shoot by Guy Bourdin (see my earlier post):
Marisa Berenson in Vogue, August 15, 1966. Photos: Guy Bourdin.
Irving Penn’s “Look Marvellous” editorial, showcasing clothes in American fabrics, included Berenson in Vogue 7017 and Vogue 7022 (via Youthquakers):
“Look Marvellous”: Marisa Berenson in Vogue, January 15, 1967. Photos: Irving Penn. Image: Youthquakers.
This Gianni Penati editorial shows two Vogue Paris Originals by Marc Bohan for Dior, Vogue 1787 and Vogue 1792:
“Hit Knits: the geometric jerseys.” Marisa Berenson in Vogue, June 1967. Photos: Gianni Penati.
The issue of Vogue Pattern Book with the Berenson cover (shown above) includes more of her editorial work. In “New Evening Splendour,” she wears the cover look, caftan Vogue 7827, as well as Vogue 7834 and Vogue 7836:
Vogue 7836 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Vogue 7827 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Vogue 7834 poncho and pants, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Berenson also models some jumpsuits in a summer portfolio—Vogue 7697 in a groovy print:
Vogue 7697 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.
High-waisted jumpsuit Vogue 7818:
Vogue 7818 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.
And short jumpsuit and wrap skirt Vogue 7812:
Vogue 7812 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.
Happy birthday, Ms. Berenson!
Marisa Berenson on the runway for Tom Ford’s Spring 2011 collection. Photo: Terry Richardson. Image: Harper’s Bazaar.
Patterns in Vogue: The Insiders (Galentine’s Day Edition)
February 13, 2017 § Leave a comment
Detail, Vogue, November 1974. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Galentine’s Day calls for slumber party-worthy loungewear. “The Insiders,” a mid-1970s Chris von Wangenheim editorial photographed in interior designer Angelo Donghia’s New York townhouse, includes three Vogue patterns made up in gleaming satin.
“The insiders… make their own gleam”: loungewear patterns in Vogue, November 1974. Photos: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.
On the left, Regina Jaffrey wears robe Vogue 8888 and trousers Vogue 1127; the model on the right is wearing jacket and drawstring pants Vogue 8855. Both ensembles were made in Qiana nylon, from American Silk Mills and Jules Moskowitz. (Hair by Maury Hopson; jewels: Van Cleef & Arpels.)
Detail, Vogue, November 1974. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.
See Sighs and Whispers’ repost for the full editorial.
Pattern images: Roma’s Maison, Vintage Pattern Wiki.
China Machado for Vogue Patterns
December 28, 2016 § 2 Comments
China Machado in Vogue Patterns, 1973. Photos: Bill King.
China Machado, the first mixed-race supermodel, has died. She was 86.
China Machado in Harper’s Bazaar, February 1959. Photos: Richard Avedon. Image: Emily Wardwell.
Born in Shanghai to Chinese and Portuguese parents, China Machado (1929-2016) was famous for working with Richard Avedon and Hubert de Givenchy. Later, she became a different kind of pioneer, as a model-turned-editor, when she succeeded Diana Vreeland as fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar.
China Machado on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, April 1971. Photo: Bill King. Image: eBay.
According to a 2010 profile, Machado made most of her own clothes, having learned to sew from her aunts in Shanghai. She returned to modelling in her eighties.
China Machado on the cover of New York magazine, August 2011. Photo: Brigitte Lacombe. Image: Cover Junkie.
In the ’70s, China Machado designed a Very Easy Vogue pattern for stretch knits, dubbed “The Shortcuts.” The collaboration was the subject of a four-page feature in Vogue Patterns magazine (click to enlarge):
China Machado: The Shortcuts. Vogue Patterns, June/July 1973. Photos: Bill King.
The Shortcuts – Vogue 2881 in Vogue Patterns, June/July 1973. Photos: Horn/Griner.
The wardrobe pattern of “nine easy pieces” for resort and lounge wear included a bikini, cover-ups, a skirt and pantskirt, and even a one-shouldered toga ensemble:
Vogue 2881 – The Shortcuts by China Machado (1973) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Another modelling pioneer, Beverly Johnson, wore Machado’s designs in Vogue magazine:
Beverly Johnson in Vogue pattern 2881, by China Machado, and caftan Vogue 8587 in Vogue, May 1973. Photos: Kourken Pakchanian. Image: Youthquakers.
For more on China Machado, see Vanessa Friedman’s obituary or Bridget Foley’s 2010 profile for W.
With thanks to my mother and Nadia at Sew Exciting Needleworks.
China Machado in Derek Lam, Barney’s Fall 2011 ad campaign. Photo: Mario Sorrenti. Editor: Carine Roitfeld. Image: Pop Sugar.
James Galanos: Vogue Patterns
December 16, 2016 § 3 Comments
Silk burnooses by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, October 1966. Photo: James Moore. Image: eBay.
This week, a look at the late James Galanos’ licensed Vogue patterns. (See my McCall’s post here.)
James Galanos Vogue pattern envelope flap. Image: eBay.
1960s
Maud Adams wears Vogue 1854 by James Galanos on the cover of the Vogue Patterns catalogue, January 1968. Image: eBay.
Vogue Patterns introduced James Galanos patterns in late 1967, with two dress designs modelled by Maud Adams and Lauren Hutton. The counter catalogue promotes Galanos’ “masterful touch” with an alternate shot of Vogue 1854, an A-line dress with side pleats at right front and left back:
Vogue 1854 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Maud Adams. Image: Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Lauren Hutton models Vogue 1855, a coat dress with double inverted pleats in the back:
Vogue 1855 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Lauren Hutton. Image: eBay.
This short, wrap-effect evening dress has square armholes and front pleats concealing pockets:
Vogue 2071 by James Galanos (1969) Image: Etsy.
1970s
Later Galanos patterns were photographed on location in New York, where the designer showed his collections. This dress goes one further than Vogue 1855 and has double inverted pleats in both front and back:
Vogue 2269 by James Galanos (1970) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Jumpsuit Vogue 2524 features a shoulder yoke, pintucks, and wide, corded belt:
Vogue 2524 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
The latest Galanos pattern I’ve seen is Vogue 2639, a long-sleeved evening dress with front slit and waistline smocking detail:
Vogue 2639 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
A dreamy illustration made the cover of the news leaflet:
Vogue 2639 by James Galanos on the cover of Vogue Pattern Fashion News, January 1972. Illustration: Ron Becker. Image: eBay.
For more on James Galanos, see Hamish Bowles’ obituary for Vogue or watch LACMA’s 1996 documentary, Galanos on Galanos (with thanks to Jen O of the Pintucks blog).
Feather-trimmed sheath in silk ottoman cloqué by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, November 1963. Photo: Melvin Sokolsky. Model: Donna Mitchell. Image: Paper Pursuits.
