Horn/Griner, 1972 + Labour Day Sale
August 30, 2017 § 1 Comment
Vogue 8206 and 8204 in Vogue Pattern Book, 1972. Photo: Horn/Griner.
Horn/Griner photographed this military-inspired ensemble for an early ’70s issue of Vogue Pattern Book: the shirt, Vogue 8206, in camo voile and the pleated skirt, Vogue 8204, in khaki gabardine. The vest was available as a knitting pattern in the magazine. (Printed voile by Aquarius Fabrics; Rosewood Fabrics double woven polyester gabardine.) The scene captures the late-summer mood.
This Labour Day weekend, from Thursday, August 31st through Monday, September 4th, customers will receive 15% off everything in the PatternVault shop as part of Etsy’s first Labour Day sale. No coupon required—the new system will show the discounted price. And if you’re new to Etsy, you can use the new guest checkout.
Happy Labour Day, everyone. See you in September.
Betsey Johnson: Butterick Patterns
August 10, 2017 § Leave a comment
Betsey Johnson sketch for Paraphernalia, 1965. Image: CFDA / Pinterest.
Betsey Johnson turns 75 today. Four decades on, the designer’s 1970s Butterick patterns are still very popular. Here’s a look at Johnson’s early work, with an emphasis on more seldom seen archival images.
Betsey Johnson (b. 1942) has made a career of creating irreverent, youth-oriented clothes that stand a bit outside the mainstream. She learned sewing and pattern drafting while running a dance school as a teen, but got her official start in the business designing for Youthquake boutique Paraphernalia. By 1970 she was the designer for Alley Cat, a junior sportswear label. (For more see Vogue.com and Anne-Marie Schiro, “Betsey Johnson: Honor for a Life of Celebrating Youth.”)
Models wear Betsey Johnson neon satin dresses in Piper’s Alley, Chicago. Life magazine, November 11, 1966. Photo: Howell Conant. Image: LIFE archive.
Juggling in a Betsey Johnson mini dress in front of Steel Pier’s mystery ride, Atlantic City. Life magazine, May 24, 1968. Photo: Richard Davis. Image: LIFE archive.
In 1971, Johnson won a Coty Award for her work at Alley Cat (see the New York Times notice). The following year, Butterick launched its Betsey Johnson patterns in the Spring 1972 catalogue. The designs were also cross-promoted (along with Cyrus Clark cotton chintz) with a Barbara Bordnick editorial in Seventeen magazine.
Butterick 6530 by Betsey Johnson of Alley Cat, Butterick Home Catalog, Spring 1972. Model: Sunny Redmond.
Butterick 6533 by Betsey Johnson in “The Betsey Girl,” Seventeen, January 1972. Photo: Barbara Bordnick. Image: Gold Country Girls.
Butterick 6530 by Betsey Johnson in Seventeen, January 1972. Photo: Barbara Bordnick. Image: Gold Country Girls.
Butterick 6535 by Betsey Johnson in Seventeen, January 1972. Photo: Barbara Bordnick. Image: Gold Country Girls.
Butterick 6532 by Betsey Johnson in Seventeen, January 1972. Photo: Barbara Bordnick. Image: Gold Country Girls.
The earliest of Johnson’s Butterick Young Designer patterns refer to her as Betsey Johnson of Alley Cat, and most seem to predate the founding of her company in 1978. Here’s Butterick 6979 on the cover of the March 1973 issue of Butterick’s news leaflet:
Butterick 6979 by Betsey Johnson of Alley Cat, Butterick Fashion News, March 1973. Image: eBay.
The young Patti Hansen in Alley Cat:
Patti Hansen in Alley Cat by Betsey Johnson, Glamour, December 1973. Photo: Rico Puhlmann. Image: Getty.
One of the first items I sold on Etsy was this 1975 issue of Butterick Fashion News with a Betsey Johnson cover. (Click to see inside.) The same embroidered pinafore was featured on the home catalogue cover:
The Romantic Pinafore: Butterick 4090 by Betsey Johnson of Alley Cat, Butterick Fashion News, March 1975. Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Butterick 4090 by Betsey Johnson of Alley Cat, Butterick Home Catalog, Spring 1975. Image: eBay.
The pinafore also appears in this cute advertisement with Butterick 4088:
Butterick Betsey Johnson ad in Seventeen, February 1975. Image: Carmen and Ginger.
This Butterick ad shows three Betsey Johnson designs that came with transfers for DIY embellishment (dress Butterick 4679, knit tops Butterick 4676, and skirt/pants Butterick 4678):
Butterick ad for Betsey Johnson patterns in Seventeen, 1976. Image: Gold County Girls.
The Spring 1976 catalogue used illustrated photographs to present this DIY series, which also included a hat and shoes (1st page, Butterick 4680; 3rd page Butterick 4681, with Joyce Walker on the right):
Butterick 4680 by Betsey Johnson, Butterick Home Catalog, Spring 1976.
Betsey Johnson patterns in the Butterick Home Catalog, Spring 1976.
Another 1976 Butterick ad shows a Betsey Johnson jumper (Butterick 4956) with deep ribbon trim—perfect for a late-summer Cape Cod getaway:
Butterick ad for Betsey Johnson patterns in Seventeen, August 1976. Image: Pinterest.
Happy birthday, Betsey Johnson!
Cotton ad featuring Alley Cat by Betsey Johnson in Seventeen, August 1973. Models: Sunny Redmond, Betsey Johnson. Image: FinnFemme.
With thanks to Heidi at Gold Country Girls.
You and Me and Rainbows
June 23, 2017 § 3 Comments
Simplicity 9376 (1971) Image: Etsy.
Happy Pride! This year you can celebrate all summer with 2017’s rainbow trend. (See Lauren Cochrane, “The rainbow’s not over – it’s the style symbol of the season.”) It’s a vintage motif with roots in the ’70s and ’80s.
The ’70s rainbow trend was well underway before Gilbert Baker created the rainbow flag in 1978. (Read MoMA’s interview.) The groovy teens’ pattern shown above came with rainbow appliqués. Maija Isola’s Sateenkaari (Rainbow) print for Marimekko appeared the same year as Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon:
Maija Isola Sateenkaari printed fabric for Marimekko, 1973. Image: Etsy.
As did this Time-Life sewing book entitled Shortcuts to Elegance:
Shortcuts to Elegance: The Art of Sewing (1973) Image: Etsy.
From McCall’s Carefree line, this iron-on alphabet transfer pattern lets you spell whatever you like in rainbow caps:
McCall’s 5567 (1977) Set of full colour iron-on transfers.
Meredith Gladstone’s circa 1980 children’s décor pattern, “Cloud Room,” includes a rainbow pillowcase and rainbow-lined sleeping bag:
Vogue 2360 by Meredith Gladstone (ca. 1980) Cloud Room. Image: Etsy.
With the right print, home dressmakers could sew everything from rainbow dresses to coverups:
Butterick 3767 (1981) Image: Etsy.
Butterick 3902 (1981) Image: Etsy.
For those making their own Cheer Bear Care Bear, Butterick’s envelope explained the rainbow’s significance as a “traditional symbol of hope,” as well as “a cheerful reminder that things are getting better and even bad times can bring something beautiful”:
Butterick 6230 (1983) Cheer Bear. Image: Etsy.
Envelope back, Butterick 6230 (1983). Image: Etsy.
Hallmark’s Rainbow Brite licensing with McCall’s included a children’s costume, Rainbow Brite and Twink toys, and a set of mobiles.
Rainbow Brite patterns on the cover of McCall’s Crafts catalogue, ca. 1984.
With a Rainbow Brite doll—share in the power of the rainbow. McCall’s 9238 (1984) Image: Etsy.
With a Twink doll—create some color of your own. McCall’s 9231 (1984) Image: Etsy.
McCall’s 9254 (1984) Rainbow Brite costume. Image: ecrater.
A rainbow for your own—McCall’s 9523 / 769 (1985) Image: Etsy.
Of course, there’s no need to find the perfect rainbow fabric. All it takes is the right array of colours…
Alexander McQueen dress (Irere, SS 2003), Vogue Italia supplement, February 2003. Photo: Steven Meisel. Model: Eugenia Volodina. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Our Man in Leather: Bobby Breslau for Vogue Patterns
June 18, 2017 § 1 Comment
Bobby Breslau in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979. Photo: Charles Tracy.
“Our Man in Leather”: Vogue Patterns introduced Bobby Breslau, one of the company’s rare designers of accessories, with a winking acknowledgement of the gay community.
Bobby Breslau biographical note, Vogue 2184 (1979). Image: Etsy.
Bobby Breslau (ca. 1943-1987) was a friend of Halston, Stephen Burrows, and Keith Haring; photographer Charles Tracy, who took Breslau’s portrait, was a member of the same social circle. Breslau’s training was in the garment industry, but a toy commission from Halston set him on the path of accessory and furniture design. His tactile, unstructured style of bag showed a sculptor’s eye for colour and texture; the New York Times called it “the handbag of the 1970’s.” (See Robin Givhan’s The Battle of Versailles and Suzanne Slesin, “Beyond the Fringe: A Designer’s Zany World in Leather.”) Breslau was the manager of Keith Haring’s Pop Shop until his death from complications of AIDS in early 1987.
Breslau bag for Halston in Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (1999) Image: Behind the Seams.
In 1979, Breslau licensed two bag patterns with Vogue. Each design could be made in three sizes. Vogue 2153 is a “draw-stringer and scarf tie-up”:
Vogue 2153 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 2184 is a saddlebag and roll pouch:
Vogue 2184 by Bobby Breslau (1979) Image: Etsy.
Just as Breslau’s unconstructed bag is back, so too are the brights of ’79. As Hannah Marriott writes, a trend for Lego colours is predicted for spring 2019…
Model with Breslau bag, Vogue Patterns, May/June 1979.
Taste the Infinite
June 11, 2017 § 5 Comments
Eight ways to wear an infinite dress. Sketch by Lydia Silvestry in Vogue, October 1976.
Summer means weddings and infinity dresses—or, if a couple is particularly on-trend, infinity bridesmaid jumpsuits.
TwoBirds bridesmaid jumpsuits, 2016. Image: Instagram.
China Machado’s summer 1973 resort set was a precursor to the infinity garments of the mid-1970s. Like the infinity dress and its cousins, Machado’s pieces call for two-way stretch knits; but Grace Mirabella’s Vogue featured the design in muslin, as worn by Beverly Johnson:
Very Easy Vogue 2881 by China Machado (1973) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Beverly Johnson in Vogue, May 1973. Photos: Kourken Pakchanian. Image: Youthquakers.
Lydia Silvestry trademarked “The Infinite Dress” and licensed it with McCall’s in 1976. As the pattern envelope says, “One size dress can be worn an infinite number of ways. See enclosed guide sheet illustrating 13 ways dress can be worn, or try creating your personal version.” (See Carmen Bouchard / Carmencita B’s posts about this pattern here.)
McCall’s 5360 by Lydia Silvestry (1976) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Silvestry also licensed her infinite jumpsuit as a pattern featuring Maud Adams. I think this pattern has my favourite fabric note: For best results use a Lightweight, Non-cling Stretchable Jersey-type Knit Fabric such as Rosewood Fabric’s LA GRAND QUE of 100% QIANA, Burlington’s AMBROSIA of 100% Dacron Polyester, Millikin’s SURE THING of 100% Dacron Polyester. (Click to view in the shop.)
McCall’s 5529 by Lydia Silvestry (1977) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
From Carol Horn, this dress has strapless and colour blocking options:
Vogue 1573 by Carol Horn (ca. 1977) Image: Etsy.
Also one-size, the Seven Way Wonder Dress seems to have been Butterick’s answer to the Infinite Dress. A winter retail catalogue shows the Wonder Dress as black tie wear:
Butterick 5230 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
The Wonder Dress – Wear It 7 Smashing Ways! Back cover of the Butterick retail catalogue, February 1977. Image: eBay.
Meanwhile, Simplicity had the Wonder Wrap Jiffy Jumpsuit and Jiffy Multi-Wrap Dress:
Simplicity 7957 (1976) Image: Etsy.
Simplicity 8086 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue released two Very Easy infinite dress patterns in spring, 1977:
Vogue 1640 (1977) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.
Vogue 1641 (1977) Image: Etsy.
Vogue 1641 is seldom seen, despite being illustrated by Antonio and photographed in Antigua for Vogue Patterns magazine:
Vogue 1641, Very Easy Vogue Patterns, May 1977. Illustration: Antonio. Image: Patterns from the Past.
Vogue 1641 in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1977. Model: Clotilde. Photo: Albert Watson. Image: The Fashion Spot.
Is that Patti Hansen modelling the Glamour Plus Dress?
Butterick 5683 (ca. 1977) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Fast forward to 2000, when McCall’s released an infinite dress by Debra Moises (Debra and Moises Diaz). The envelope shows 5 variations:
McCall’s 2781 by Debra Moises (2000) Image: eBay.
In early 2011, the New York Times ran a story about the trend for convertible garments (see Ruth La Ferla, “Convertible Clothing Is a New Twist for the Cost-Conscious“). Butterick featured an infinite dress (now out of print) on the cover of that year’s Spring catalogue:
Butterick 5606 on the cover of the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Butterick 5606 in the Butterick catalogue, Spring 2011. Image: Issuu.
Last summer, as part of their Archive Collection, McCall’s reissued their 1970s-era infinite dress and jumpsuit as a single pattern (still in print). These patterns are usually adapted somewhat from the vintage originals:
’70s Chic with Infinite Looks: M7384 in McCall’s lookbook, Early Summer 2016. Image: Issuu.
It’s easy to see why infinity dresses remain popular, with their carefree resort vibe and minimal fitting requirements. And on the pattern envelopes, the hall of mirrors effect never gets old, does it?
For more discussion and links, see Michelle Lee’s post.
Donna Karan’s jersey Infinity dress, 2011. Image: New York Times.
Motherhood, 1971
May 14, 2017 § 3 Comments
Vogue 7952 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.
In honour of Mother’s Day, some maternity images from an early ’70s Vogue Pattern Book.
That’s Vogue 7952 by the red Volkswagen bug. (Shoes: Charles Jourdan.) The other maternity patterns are Vogue 7382 and Vogue 8079.
Happy Mother’s Day!
Vogue 7382 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.
Vogue 8079 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.
“Motherhood” in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photos: Art Barclay.
Marisa Berenson
February 15, 2017 § Leave a comment
Marisa Berenson on the cover of Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Marisa Berenson (b. 1947) turns 70 today. Though best known for her work as a film actor in movies like Visconti’s Death in Venice (1971), Cabaret (1972), and Barry Lyndon (1975), Berenson grew up wanting to be a fashion model. Her career was launched when she met Diana Vreeland at a society ball, and she became one of the most successful models of the ’60s and ’70s. For more, see the visual biography Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures (Rizzoli, 2011).
Marisa Berenson as the Countess of Lyndon on the cover of Andy Warhol’s Interview, January 1975. Image: eBay.
As far as I know, Berenson appears on only one pattern envelope: Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta. Taken in a New York interior, the photo was also published in a 1970 Vogue Pattern Book feature on the designer:
Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta (1970) Image: Etsy.
Berenson can also be seen in Vreeland-era pattern editorials in Vogue magazine, like this shoot by Guy Bourdin (see my earlier post):
Marisa Berenson in Vogue, August 15, 1966. Photos: Guy Bourdin.
Irving Penn’s “Look Marvellous” editorial, showcasing clothes in American fabrics, included Berenson in Vogue 7017 and Vogue 7022 (via Youthquakers):
“Look Marvellous”: Marisa Berenson in Vogue, January 15, 1967. Photos: Irving Penn. Image: Youthquakers.
This Gianni Penati editorial shows two Vogue Paris Originals by Marc Bohan for Dior, Vogue 1787 and Vogue 1792:
“Hit Knits: the geometric jerseys.” Marisa Berenson in Vogue, June 1967. Photos: Gianni Penati.
The issue of Vogue Pattern Book with the Berenson cover (shown above) includes more of her editorial work. In “New Evening Splendour,” she wears the cover look, caftan Vogue 7827, as well as Vogue 7834 and Vogue 7836:
Vogue 7836 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Vogue 7827 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Vogue 7834 poncho and pants, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.
Berenson also models some jumpsuits in a summer portfolio—Vogue 7697 in a groovy print:
Vogue 7697 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.
High-waisted jumpsuit Vogue 7818:
Vogue 7818 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.
And short jumpsuit and wrap skirt Vogue 7812:
Vogue 7812 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.
Happy birthday, Ms. Berenson!
Marisa Berenson on the runway for Tom Ford’s Spring 2011 collection. Photo: Terry Richardson. Image: Harper’s Bazaar.
