As Vogue Patterns was settling in under its new, British ownership, two seasons have gone by without my usual pattern report. I’ve been busy with the campaign to save the beautiful, historic St. Giles church here in Hamilton, Ontario. (If you want to help, please sign the petition here!)
V1777 by Rachel Comey, Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021. Image: Issuu.V1813, Vogue Patterns lookbook Summer 2021. Image: Issuu.
Vogue’s spring cover look is a Rachel Comey dress from the Fall 2019 collection.
Tempo dress, Rachel Comey Fall 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
A loose midi dress with front pleats, the Tempo dress was shown in stretch poly-rayon suiting and a silk scarf print.
Rachel Comey’s Tempo dress in Pink New Innsbruck. Image: Rachel Comey.Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2020: Tempo dress in a silk scarf print. Image: Rachel Comey.V1777 by Rachel Comey (2021) Tempo dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
For summer, there were two more Rachel Comey dresses, both from Resort 2020. The Lurie dress is silk-blend taffeta with metal mesh trim, in black or Citron:
Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black. Image: Shopbop.Lurie dress in Citron, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.V1798 by Rachel Comey (2021) Lurie dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
The New Cardiff dress is a longer, topstitched version of the Cardiff dress, which features unfinished hems:
The long, denim New Cardiff dress made quarantine-dressing trend lists early in the pandemic. As seen in Sky or Sherbert denim:
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Refinery 29.Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Garmentory.V1799 by Rachel Comey (2021) Cardiff dress in Sherbert denim. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
From Guy Laroche by Richard René, a one-sleeved jumpsuit with attached half-jacket from the Spring 2020 collection. If I’ve translated my Russian right, it is cotton:
Guy Laroche by Richard René Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.Guy Laroche jumpsuit, Elle Russia, June 2020. Model: Catherine McNeil. Photo: Gilles Bensimon. Editor: Vadim Galaganov. Image: Elle.ru.V1790 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Playing with grain and stripes is the focus of two recent Zandra Rhodes patterns. For summer, a dress with bell-flounce sleeves and handkerchief hem:
V1796 by Zandra Rhodes (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
From the Winter release, there was this long-sleeved maxi dress from Rhodes’ Victoriana-inspired Fall 2019 collection, entitled The Golden Hour and exclusive to Liberty.
Zandra Rhodes Fall 2019. Photo: Richard Dowker. Image: WWD.Vogue 1762 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Vogue has gone silent on their #SewTheLook designer adaptations. But in the Spring-Summer patterns, one inspiration is very recognizable — from SHOWstudio’s Spring 2020 free McQueen pattern.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Vilma Sjöberg. Image: Vogue Runway.V1782 after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Finally, could the new Vintage Vogue be a Schiaparelli knockoff?
V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue top, ca. 1947. Model: Caroline Mathis. Image: IG Design Group Americas.V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue reissue from ca. 1947. Image: IG Design Group Americas.Vogue 6036 (1947) Image: eBay.
Add a high collar and lace trim, and you have a New Look-era Schiaparelli blouse, as seen in Vogue.
Schiaparelli blouse and hat, Vogue, April 1, 1947. Photo: Serge Balkin. Image: Vogue Archive.
Isn’t it? Yes, the magazine mentions a cummerbund: “Boned chin-high. Gibson Girl shirtwaist with flat, boned cummerbund. Eyelet blouse and horsehair hat by Schiaparelli”
Your blog is fabulous, a really enjoyable journey into Fashion History, love the historical Costume references and the in-depth background on Designers you share with us.
One thing puzzling me now re Vogue Patterns & their relationship to Designers – why do Vogue credit & name check some designers on the face of their patterns ie Rachel Comey, Zandra Rhodes etc but not others?
Like for Fall 2020, you shown us the direct pattern copy for the Gucci V1717 & V1719 & Isobel Marant V1726 designs, here for Summer 2021, the Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton V1782 & the Ralph Lauren for V9266, but no mention of these Designers on the face of the Vogue Pattern? Even Carlos Correa on his Instagram page references these designers directly, but not Vogue itself?
PatternVault 
Oh my the Schiaparelli blouse is marvellous. Do you think the model is wearing a cummerbund or is the lower section integral?
Isn’t it? Yes, the magazine mentions a cummerbund: “Boned chin-high. Gibson Girl shirtwaist with flat, boned cummerbund. Eyelet blouse and horsehair hat by Schiaparelli”
Sarah,
Your blog is fabulous, a really enjoyable journey into Fashion History, love the historical Costume references and the in-depth background on Designers you share with us.
One thing puzzling me now re Vogue Patterns & their relationship to Designers – why do Vogue credit & name check some designers on the face of their patterns ie Rachel Comey, Zandra Rhodes etc but not others?
Like for Fall 2020, you shown us the direct pattern copy for the Gucci V1717 & V1719 & Isobel Marant V1726 designs, here for Summer 2021, the Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton V1782 & the Ralph Lauren for V9266, but no mention of these Designers on the face of the Vogue Pattern? Even Carlos Correa on his Instagram page references these designers directly, but not Vogue itself?
Your blog is such a light in these time,
Warm Regards
Karen, Sydney, Australia