Spring/Summer 2021 Designer Pattern Highlights

Rachel Comey yellow taffeta puff-sleeve dress, Resort 2020
Detail, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.

As Vogue Patterns was settling in under its new, British ownership, two seasons have gone by without my usual pattern report. I’ve been busy with the campaign to save the beautiful, historic St. Giles church here in Hamilton, Ontario. (If you want to help, please sign the petition here!)

Vogue 1777 Tempo dress pattern by Rachel Comey on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021
V1777 by Rachel Comey, Vogue Patterns lookbook Spring 2021. Image: Issuu.
V1813, Vogue Patterns lookbook Summer 2021. Image: Issuu.

Vogue’s spring cover look is a Rachel Comey dress from the Fall 2019 collection.

Rachel Comey Tempo dress on the Fall 2019 runway
Tempo dress, Rachel Comey Fall 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.

A loose midi dress with front pleats, the Tempo dress was shown in stretch poly-rayon suiting and a silk scarf print.

 Samya is 5’9.5” (176 cm) and wears a size 4 A sister to the Ardent Jumpsuit, the Tempo Dress is a waisted pleat front dress with midi length. It has a slightly loose, off the body fit which allows the pleats to move and for the whole style to drape around the neckline. Innsbruck is one of our favorite suiting fabrics; it holds structure while having enough stretch to provide flexibility and comfort.
Rachel Comey’s Tempo dress in Pink New Innsbruck. Image: Rachel Comey.
 Nora is 5’10.5” (179 cm) and wears a size 4 The pine cone, a new motif in our PF20 collection, has long been associated with enlightenment and intuition. Based on archival artwork from a historic Italian mill and inspired by vintage scarves, the print placement of Pine Cone Foulard is unique to each silhouette. The Tempo Dress is a waisted, pleat-front dress with midi length. It has a slightly loose, off the body fit suited to natural movement.
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2020: Tempo dress in a silk scarf print. Image: Rachel Comey.
V1777 Tempo dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021)
V1777 by Rachel Comey (2021) Tempo dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

For summer, there were two more Rachel Comey dresses, both from Resort 2020. The Lurie dress is silk-blend taffeta with metal mesh trim, in black or Citron:

Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black taffeta
Rachel Comey Lurie dress in black. Image: Shopbop.
Rachel Comey Resort 2020 lookbook: Lurie dress in Citron taffeta
Lurie dress in Citron, Rachel Comey Resort 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
V1798 Lurie dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021)
V1798 by Rachel Comey (2021) Lurie dress. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

The New Cardiff dress is a longer, topstitched version of the Cardiff dress, which features unfinished hems:

Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal
Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal. Image: Pinterest.
Rachel Comey Cardiff dress in Teal: detail showing raw sleeve edge with stay stitching
Rachel Comey Cardiff dress detail. Image: Lyst.

The long, denim New Cardiff dress made quarantine-dressing trend lists early in the pandemic. As seen in Sky or Sherbert denim:

Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Refinery 29.
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim
Rachel Comey New Cardiff dress in Sky denim. Image: Garmentory.
V1799 Cardiff dress pattern by Rachel Comey (2021)
V1799 by Rachel Comey (2021) Cardiff dress in Sherbert denim. Image: IG Design Group Americas.

From Guy Laroche by Richard René, a one-sleeved jumpsuit with attached half-jacket from the Spring 2020 collection. If I’ve translated my Russian right, it is cotton:

Guy Laroche white jumpsuit on the Spring 2020 runway
Guy Laroche by Richard René Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
комбинезон из хлопка - jumpsuit of cotton, Guy Laroche
Guy Laroche jumpsuit, Elle Russia, June 2020. Model: Catherine McNeil. Photo: Gilles Bensimon. Editor: Vadim Galaganov. Image: Elle.ru.
V1790 jumpsuit pattern by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021)
V1790 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Playing with grain and stripes is the focus of two recent Zandra Rhodes patterns. For summer, a dress with bell-flounce sleeves and handkerchief hem:

V1796 pink striped handkerchief dress pattern by Zandra Rhodes (2021)
V1796 by Zandra Rhodes (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

From the Winter release, there was this long-sleeved maxi dress from Rhodes’ Victoriana-inspired Fall 2019 collection, entitled The Golden Hour and exclusive to Liberty.

Zandra Rhodes long-sleeved maxi dress, Fall 2019
Zandra Rhodes Fall 2019. Photo: Richard Dowker. Image: WWD.
Vogue 1762 dress pattern by Zandra Rhodes (2020)
Vogue 1762 by Zandra Rhodes (2020) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Vogue has gone silent on their #SewTheLook designer adaptations. But in the Spring-Summer patterns, one inspiration is very recognizable — from SHOWstudio’s Spring 2020 free McQueen pattern.

Vilma Sjöberg on the Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 runway
Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Vilma Sjöberg. Image: Vogue Runway.
V1782 dress after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021)
V1782 after Sarah Burton for McQueen (2021) Image: IG Design Group Americas.

Finally, could the new Vintage Vogue be a Schiaparelli knockoff?

Caroline Mathis in Vintage Vogue top V1809, ca. 1947
V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue top, ca. 1947. Model: Caroline Mathis. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
V1809 (2021) Reissue circa 1947 design.
V1809 (2021) Vintage Vogue reissue from ca. 1947. Image: IG Design Group Americas.
Vogue 6036 (1947) ROund dropped-shoulder yoke with deep lapped-seam finish, front and back. Gathers below yoke in front.
Vogue 6036 (1947) Image: eBay.

Add a high collar and lace trim, and you have a New Look-era Schiaparelli blouse, as seen in Vogue.

Schiaparelli blouse and hat, Vogue, April 1, 1947. Photo: Serge Balkin. Image: Vogue Archive.

Fall 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Detail, Badgley Mischka Fall 2019 runway presentation. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.

The new Vogue patterns for fall 2020 play with drape and texture for dropping temperatures. Plus, for those who like a challenge, there’s outerwear in luxe synthetics.

Both of Vogue’s cover looks are designer adaptations. (More on those later.)

Lauren Buys in V1714 moto jacket in vegan leather, Vogue Fall 2020 lookbook. Image: Issuu.

The new Badgley Mischka was Fall 2019’s opening look, as worn by South-Sudanese model Ajak Deng. The sequinned pantsuit comes with a matching tie belt.

Badgley Mischka Fall 2019. Model: Ajak Deng. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
V1716 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

For his Fall 2019 collection, Laroche designer Richard René was inspired by the founder’s black marble tomb. The Guy Laroche ad campaign also featured Vogue’s selection: a high-necked dress for stretch knits.

Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Detail, Guy Laroche Fall 2019 by Richard René. Image: Vogue.com.
Guy Laroche FW19 campaign
Guy Laroche Fall 2019 ad campaign. Model: Vera von Bürhen. Photos: Tania et Vincent. Images: Guy Laroche.
Vogue 1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020)
V1721 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Model: Lauren Buys. Image: McCall’s.

The new Rachel Comey designs were shown together on the Fall ’19 runway. But Comey had sent out the Alter pants for Spring ’18, as part of a black suit.

A look from Rachel Comey Spring 2018. Image: Vogue.com.

The original Jaunt coat is turmeric solaric (a crinkle patent) with shearling collar and rib-knit cuffs.

Jaunt coat
Rachel Comey’s Jaunt coat and Alter pants on the Fall 2019 runway. Image: Vogue.com.
Rachel Comey Jaunt coat pattern Vogue 1711 (2020)
V1711 by Rachel Comey (2020) Jaunt coat. Image: McCall’s.
Rachel Comey Alter pants pattern Vogue 1729 (2020)
V1729 by Rachel Comey (2020) Alter pants. Image: McCall’s.

One of Fall’s cover looks, V1717, is adapted from Gucci by Alessandro Michele. That season, the Gucci ad campaign highlighted a traditional garment district.

A look from Gucci Fall 2019 by Alessandro Michele. Image: Vogue.com.
Gucci Fall 2019 ad campaign. Photo: Glen Luchford. Art direction: Christopher Simmonds. Image: Gucci / Fashionista.
Gucci Fall ’19, wool blend with velvet trim. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1717 after Gucci (2020)
V1717 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Instead of a Vintage Vogue, there’s a ’70s-style jumpsuit, also adapted from Gucci. Lana Del Rey wore a green version in the brand’s fragrance campaign for Cruise 2019. Michele used a wool-silk cady for both the original jumpsuit and playsuit variation. (View on the Gucci website: Navy jumpsuit | Gardenia playsuit.)

Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto in the Gucci Guilty fragrance campaign, 2019
Gucci Guilty campaign with Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto, 2019. Photo: Glen Luchford. Image: Fashionista.
Navy belted wool and silk blend cady jumpsuit
Gucci belted wool-silk cady jumpsuit. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Ecru belted wool and silk-blend cady playsuit
Gucci wool-silk cady playsuit in Gardenia. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Vogue 1719 jumpsuit pattern after Gucci (2020)
V1719 after Gucci (2020) Image: McCall’s.

There are also tops adapted from Isabel Marant and LaPointe. Marant’s striped Bianca blouse, with bias cowl and shoulder flanges, made its first appearance in the cult designer’s very ’80s-inspired Fall ’19 collection. In a metallic stripe, it becomes the Ramone.

A look from Isabel Marant Fall 2019. Image: Vogue.com.
Veronika Kunz by fashion photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
Isabel Marant Resort 2020
Isabel Marant Resort 2020. Model: Veronika Kunz. Photo: Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. Image: Vogue.com.
V1726 after Isabel Marant (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The LaPointe was shown in sweater and blouse variations, made in cashmere, viscose-polyester knit, and striped satin. Vogue adds a bias cut for drape.

LaPointe scarf-neck sweaters in mint cashmere and gold viscose-polyester. Images: LaPointe.
A look from LaPointe Pre-Fall 2020. Images: LaPointe.
V1727 after LaPointe (2020) Image: McCall’s.

This sleeveless McQueen midi dress dates to circa Fall 2015. Vogue’s version cuts the bodice, and optional sleeves, on the bias.

Alexander McQueen asymmetric-hem midi dress in emerald-green stretch wool blend. Image: Matches Fashion.
V1725 (2020)
V1725 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Vogue’s moto jacket cover look is also adapted from McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton first showed her extra-generous peplums in Spring ’18; her peplum biker jackets are belted, embroidered, or even made with a contrast drape.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue Runway.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2019. Model: Selena Forrest. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Image: Vogue.com.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Vogue.com.
Vogue 1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020)
V1714 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2020) Image: McCall’s.

Burton introduced the shorter version, in black or ivory, for Fall ’19. (There’s one left at Alexander McQueen online, or try Bergdorf’s.) Just add hardware.

Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in black leather. Image: Net-a-Porter.
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather
Alexander McQueen peplum biker jacket in ivory leather. Image: Alexander McQueen.
Shanelle Nyasiase photographed by Chloé Le Drezen in a black leather jacket and skirt - Alexander McQueen Resort 2020
Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 by Sarah Burton. Model: Shanelle Nyasiase. Photo: Chloé Le Drezen. Editor: Camilla Nickerson. Image: Anne of Carversville.