This week, the second part of my series on commercial sewing patterns by Elsa Schiaparelli. (See Part 1 here.)
Schiaparelli was one of the eight couturiers who licensed designs for the first Vogue Paris Originals in 1949. Vogue’s first Schiaparelli pattern was a skirt suit with double pockets and one-sleeved blouse, Vogue 1051:
The suit was photographed in Paris by Clifford Coffin:
The photo that opens this post shows Vogue 1074, a Schiaparelli dress and shortcoat from Vogue’s fourth series of Paris Originals. The original coat was lined with astrakhan. (The suit on the right is Vogue 1076 by Jacques Heim.)
New Look curves characterize this Schiaparelli suit pattern from spring, 1950, which was photographed in Paris by Norman Parkinson. The short-sleeved jacket has rounded, stiffened hips, while the kimono-sleeved blouse buttons its curved fronts to one side. Vogue recommends making the blouse from the suit’s lining fabric:
Vogue 1133 is a vampy, short-sleeved dress with hip-enhancing pocket flaps and convertible collar at both front and back:
Arik Nepo’s photograph plays up the dress’ severity:
Vogue 1142 is a faux suit, an asymmetrical dress with a skirt front extension that creates the illusion of a jacket on one side. (Much like Galliano’s Givenchy jumpsuit, Vogue 1887.) The shaped projections of the big, rounded collar, skirt extension, and off-kilter double-breasted closure playfully destabilize the garment:
This Schiaparelli evening dress pattern, Vogue 1144, includes a petticoat and diaphanous kerchief. Look closely, and you can see that the oversized, decorative pockets extend almost the length of the skirt:
Here’s a closer look at Henry Clarke’s photo:
In 1952 Schiaparelli showed inverted heart necklines for spring; with its pointed, stand-away neckline and narrow shawl collar, Vogue 1179 allowed the home dressmaker to be right up to date. The cocktail dress closes with not one but two side zippers:
Vogue magazine showed an alternate photo by Robert Randall:
Frances McLaughlin photographed Bettina in Vogue 1198, a short evening dress with what Vogue called “a big pleated bandage—like an outside order ribbon” wrapping over one shoulder and around the waist. The original was made in black silk brocade:
Here’s a catalogue page for Vogue 1198, with illustration and alternate photo:
Vogue 1231 is a day dress with a single patch pocket and bloused bodice gathered to a dramatic convertible collar:
The dress was photographed in Paris by Robert Randall:
Finally, Vogue 1245 is a long evening dress with an attached stole that passes through the bodice front:
The stunning gown was photographed by Roger Prigent:
If you don’t have the budget for an original Schiaparelli pattern, a reproduction of the one-sleeved stole from Vogue 1068 is available from Decades of Style:
14 thoughts on “Schiaparelli Patterns, Part 2”
thanks for such an interesting read! The innovative design in Schiaparelli patterns is such a delight. Love the single sleeve stole as well as Vogue 1144 with the extended pockets.
Oooh, pattern porn!! Thank you for sharing! Now why can’t Vogue come up with something as fabulous as this for their new designs?! – these look like a great challenge with an incredible dress/suit as the reward at the end.
Yes! It would be fantastic if Vogue Patterns licensed designs from the Schiaparellis of today..
Wonderful designs. Thank you for sharing.
What a super post. These designs are incredibly wearable despite the cleverest cutting. Thank you.
Thanks for a wonderful post. I especially like the evening dress with pockets. I happened to be watching this year’s Oscars when Ellen de Generes asked if somone in the audience could pay for the (not very funny) pizza delivery — of course not. No pockets in their evening gowns!
Thanks! The pockets are so witty, aren’t they?
So lovely! Some of the necklines are amazing! I love the shortcoat- Vogue 1074- I could easily wear that now! Thank you for sharing these!
Such beautiful clothes. Thanks for the very interesting read – one of my favourite designers. Do you think vogue will reprint some of these?
Thanks, Ruth. Vogue Patterns has said they can’t reissue their old designer patterns (I wrote to them and asked). But one can’t help wishing they’d renegotiate their agreements with the couture houses!
Another great post. Your research is excellent, and your descriptions of the patterns and your fashion commentary are much appreciated.
Another great picture of Vogue 1245: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/381328293421940309/ and thank you so much for this post!
Thanks, Cecile, this is fantastic!