A Fourth Givenchy Pattern by Galliano

Givenchy by John Galliano ad campaign Fall 1996
Detail, Givenchy Fall 1996 advertising campaign. Image: eBay.

Thanks to a runway video posted by blogger Fubuki, I’ve been able to identify a fourth Givenchy pattern designed by John Galliano. (See my post on the other patterns here.)

For a while I’d wondered about Vogue 1887, a tailored, mock wrap jumpsuit. Caveat emptor: an unscrupulous online dealer has been selling V1887 as Alexander McQueen, but the pattern appears in Vogue Patterns magazine prior to McQueen’s first Givenchy show in January 1997. My copy is copyright 1996 and, although the fabric requirements weren’t yet available, Vogue 1887 was first shown in the November/December 1996 issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine, in a trends forecast on jumpsuits. By the January/February 1997 issue it’s featured in an editorial.

John Galliano for Givenchy tailored pinstriped jumpsuit pattern, Vogue 1887 (1996)
Vogue 1887 by John Galliano for Givenchy (1996) Jumpsuit.
Technical drawing for Vogue 1887 jumpsuit
Technical drawing for Vogue 1887 jumpsuit

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ jumpsuit. Loose-fitting, straight-legged, cuffed, mock wrap, partially lined jumpsuit has self or contrast collar, shoulder pads, upper welt, flap, lower welt pocket, side seam pockets, concealed front pleat/zipper and long, two-piece sleeves.

Fubuki’s runway video of Galliano’s Fall 1996 prêt-à-porter collection for Givenchy shows two versions of the mock-wrap jumpsuit. (For a review of the collection see Suzy Menkes, “A Neat, Cool Take on Couture for Fall.”) The Vogue 1887 version is worn under a long, white jacket; the second version has a front drape and is shown with a single, embellished gold epaulette:

runway video still, Givenchy by John Galliano FW 1996 ready-to-wear flannel jumpsuits
Flannel jumpsuits, Givenchy by Galliano Fall 1996 RTW.

This matador look gives a better view of the epaulettes:

runway video still, Givenchy by John Galliano FW1996 ready-to-wear grey suit with black montera and gold matador epaulettes
Nadja Auermann in John Galliano’s suit (and black montera) for Givenchy Fall 1996 RTW.

Here’s an editorial photo of another jumpsuit from the same collection, from L’Officiel’s ready-to-wear special issue. The runway version was modelled by Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin:

Givenchy bustier jumpsuit by John Galliano in L'Officiel no. 807, August 1996.
“All in one, a bustier jumpsuit in white-striped grey tennis flannel. To be worn with an ivory silk cape, Givenchy.” L’Officiel no. 807, August 1996. Photo: Bruno Bisang. Image: jalougallery.

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