A Fourth Givenchy Pattern by Galliano

Thanks to a runway video posted by blogger Fubuki, I’ve been able to identify a fourth Givenchy pattern designed by John Galliano. (See my post on the other patterns here.)

For a while I’d wondered about Vogue 1887, a tailored, mock wrap jumpsuit. Caveat emptor: an unscrupulous online dealer has been selling V1887 as Alexander McQueen, but the pattern appears in Vogue Patterns magazine prior to McQueen’s first Givenchy show in January 1997. My copy is copyright 1996 and, although the fabric requirements weren’t yet available, Vogue 1887 was first shown in the November/December 1996 issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine, in a trends forecast on jumpsuits. By the January/February 1997 issue it’s featured in an editorial.

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ jumpsuit. Loose-fitting, straight-legged, cuffed, mock wrap, partially lined jumpsuit has self or contrast collar, shoulder pads, upper welt, flap, lower welt pocket, side seam pockets, concealed front pleat/zipper and long, two-piece sleeves.

Fubuki’s runway video of Galliano’s Fall 1996 prêt-à-porter collection for Givenchy shows two versions of the mock-wrap jumpsuit. (For a review of the collection see Suzy Menkes, “A Neat, Cool Take on Couture for Fall.”) The Vogue 1887 version is worn under a long, white jacket; the second version has a front drape and is shown with a single, embellished gold epaulette:

This matador look gives a better view of the epaulettes:

Here’s an editorial photo of another jumpsuit from the same collection, from L’Officiel’s ready-to-wear special issue. The runway version was modelled by Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin: