January 12, 2017 § 1 Comment
A 1959 Eastman Fibers ad brings a note of intrigue to McCall’s patterns by photographing them in a nightlife setting, on a pair of vampy women.
Chromspun is the trademark for Eastman colour-locked acetate yarn from Eastman Chemical Products Inc., then a subsidiary of Eastman Kodak—in those days headquartered on Madison Avenue.
December 31, 2016 § Leave a comment
A Gordon Parks editorial for British Vogue features Brigitte Bauer in NYE-worthy evening patterns.
The patterns are Vogue 6628 and Vogue 6596, both Vogue Special designs. The cocktail sheath was made up in pale apple green wild silk from Dickins & Jones, the one-shouldered gown in light almond green Abraham silk crepe from Allan’s of Duke Street.
See Youthquakers for more of the November issue.
Happy New Year, all the best for 2017!
December 28, 2016 § 1 Comment
China Machado, the first mixed-race supermodel, has died. She was 86.
Born in Shanghai to Chinese and Portuguese parents, China Machado (1929-2016) was famous for working with Richard Avedon and Hubert de Givenchy. Later, she became a different kind of pioneer, as a model-turned-editor, when she succeeded Diana Vreeland as fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar.
According to a 2010 profile, Machado made most of her own clothes, having learned to sew from her aunts in Shanghai. She returned to modelling in her eighties.
In the ’70s, China Machado designed a Very Easy Vogue pattern for stretch knits, dubbed “The Shortcuts.” The collaboration was the subject of a four-page feature in Vogue Patterns magazine (click to enlarge):
The wardrobe pattern of “nine easy pieces” for resort and lounge wear included a bikini, cover-ups, a skirt and pantskirt, and even a one-shouldered toga ensemble:
Another modelling pioneer, Beverly Johnson, wore Machado’s designs in Vogue magazine:
With thanks to my mother and Nadia at Sew Exciting Needleworks.
December 21, 2016 § 2 Comments
A Celanese advertising insert from the late 1950s shows McCall’s festive styles in the latest synthetic silks—top models and more than one tiara from the multinational chemical company that brought you cellulose acetate.
The booklet frames small, full-length photos of McCall’s designs with close-ups showing off the “brilliant” textiles. Here, McCall’s 4999 is shown in Belding Corticelli’s rayon-acetate matelassé, with McCall’s 5057 in Cohama’s Arnel triacetate faille. The model on the right is Simone D’Aillencourt:
Here, Dovima wears a shimmering gold version of McCall’s 4425 in Lawrence and Klauber printed crepe satin acetate, while McCall’s 4870 evokes Princess Grace in aqua acetate satin from William Skinner and Sons:
Dovima closes the booklet in McCall’s 5012, an at-home trouser ensemble shown in orange and tangerine Celaperm acetate satin peau from Wedgwood Fabrics.
For more on the history of Celanese (est. 1918), see the company website.
Happy holidays, everyone!
December 16, 2016 § 3 Comments
This week, a look at the late James Galanos’ licensed Vogue patterns. (See my McCall’s post here.)
Vogue Patterns introduced James Galanos patterns in late 1967, with two dress designs modelled by Maud Adams and Lauren Hutton. The counter catalogue promotes Galanos’ “masterful touch” with an alternate shot of Vogue 1854, an A-line dress with side pleats at right front and left back:
Lauren Hutton models Vogue 1855, a coat dress with double inverted pleats in the back:
This short, wrap-effect evening dress has square armholes and front pleats concealing pockets:
Later Galanos patterns were photographed on location in New York, where the designer showed his collections. This dress goes one further than Vogue 1855 and has double inverted pleats in both front and back:
Jumpsuit Vogue 2524 features a shoulder yoke, pintucks, and wide, corded belt:
The latest Galanos pattern I’ve seen is Vogue 2639, a long-sleeved evening dress with front slit and waistline smocking detail:
A dreamy illustration made the cover of the news leaflet:
December 11, 2016 § Leave a comment
We finally got some snow in Toronto. Here’s a winter-themed cover from the mid-1930s.
The pattern is McCall 8038, a suit consisting of a high-waisted skirt and tunic-length wrap coat with fur-trimmed collar.
(The NRA eagle logo shows compliance with the National Recovery Administration. For more on this Depression-era US policy, see Rebecca Onion for Slate.)
November 28, 2016 § Leave a comment
Today marks the 50th anniversary of Truman Capote’s legendary Black and White Ball. (Read Amy Fine Collins’ article for the 30th.)
To mark the occasion, I’m having a flash sale in the PatternVault Etsy shop.
The sale runs through today only—20% off with coupon code CAPOTE. Your purchase helps support the research on this blog.