This week, part 2 of my look at patterns by Richard Tyler for Anne Klein.
2. Anne Klein Fall/Winter 1994–95
For his well-received Fall 1994 Anne Klein collection, Tyler was inspired by the Bloomsbury Group, plus sixties-era San Francisco and New York — complete with earth tones, embroidery, and hot pants.
WWD called the collection brilliant, writing, “Tyler cuts the best jackets in New York, and he does it with uncanny diversity — short, long, shaped, cardigan-style. But it was his exquisite fabrics and impeccable detailing that turned basic shapes into knockouts.” (See WWD, “Anne Klein: Tyler Takes Control” and Bernadine Morris, “Virginia Woolf, Meet Anne Klein.”)
“Tyler cuts the best jackets in New York.”
— WWD
Colour runway photos and video for this collection are scarce online, but Bloomsbury’s Fashion Central archive has this description (video is available for institutional access only):
Outerwear was the focus of the collection, coming in a variety of fabrics, lengths, and for numerous occasions. Black and gray coats were transformed for the evening with the addition of fur or feather collars and cuffs, as well as embroidery. Suit jackets were paired with miniskirts or hot pants, while shirts had exaggerated lapels and elongated sleeves. Cardigans and waistcoats also appeared, whilst eveningwear consisted of silk or velvet pants and cocktail dresses trimmed with feathers in rich browns, greens, and golds. The models wore diamond earrings and hats with ear flaps. Over-the-knee socks, dark pantyhose, fur, leather, or shearling-lined boots, brogues, and strappy heels were worn throughout. Hair was twisted in a messy bun and lips were dark red.
Anne Klein devoted $2-million to its Fall 1994 ad campaign— a campaign that marked a major shift for the brand. Tyler chose Steven Meisel to photograph the ads: fourteen images shot in New York and featuring supermodels Nadja Auermann, Shalom Harlow, and Kirsty Hume with a DeLorean. Meisel’s multi-page portfolios for Anne Klein debuted in Vanity Fair, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar.
For more on Anne Klein’s Fall 1994 campaign, see Lisa Lockwood, “Anne Klein Gets Edgy.”
It seems Vogue Patterns made only one selection from this collection: Vogue 1658, a long, double-breasted jacket and high-waisted skirt with back belt. The company styled the suit with one of the collection’s distinctive satin shirts. (See Nordstrom ad below.)
The V1658 jacket was featured in Steven Meisel’s ad campaign, as worn by Shalom Harlow. On the runway, it was shown over one of the collection’s dark chocolate-coloured mini dresses.
Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ Jacket & Skirt. Loose-fitting, fully interfaced, lined, below hip, A-line, double-breasted jacket has notched collar, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads, flaps, welt pockets, back vent and long, two-piece sleeves with button vent. Semi-fitted, tapered, lined skirt, above mid-knee, has raised waist with back belt, side slits and side zipper. Purchased top. (Featured in Vogue Patterns, November/December 1995.)
Just for fun, here are some editorial images from the Fall 1994 collection:
Next: Richard Tyler’s final collection for Anne Klein.
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