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Free Designer Pattern: Mugler Spiral Denim

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David Epstein in Mugler by Casey Cadwallader. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

To celebrate Pride Month, I’ll be adding two more designs to my free designer pattern series. First up is a free Mugler pattern by Casey Cadwallader.

With Thierry Mugler: Couturissime then finishing its tour at the Brooklyn Museum, it was fitting that SHOWstudio’s 2022 Design Download was a pair of Mugler spiral jeans.

David Epstein in Mugler by Casey Cadwallader. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.
David Epstein in Mugler by Casey Cadwallader. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

Inclusive casting and design were hallmarks of Casey Cadwallader’s time at Mugler. His spiral cut is said to flatter a range of body types. According to SHOWstudio:

“As seen on Bella Hadid and the crème de la crème of street style stars alike, the Mugler Spiral construction lends itself to all body shapes and sizes, in keeping with Cadwallader’s desire to create a democratic fantasy where Mugler exists both on the street and the red carpet.”

A perennial design, the spiral-cut jeans were shown as part of an all-denim look in the Spring 2021 Mugler collection.

A denim look from Mugler Spring 2021 by Casey Cadwallader. Image: Vogue.com.

The next season, black light highlighted the spiral seaming detail on the runway:

Mugler Fall 2021 by Casey Cadwallader. Image: Dazed Digital.

Emilia Clarke wore a high waisted version of the Mugler spiral jeans on the cover of Wonderland magazine:

Emilia Clarke in a Mugler Resort 2020 satin bustier and Mugler high waisted spiral jeans, Wonderland magazine, Winter 2019/20. Photo: Christian Oita. Editor: Toni Blaze. Image: Mugler.

This edition of SHOWstudio’s free pattern series also had an augmented reality component. The Mugler Design Download competition saw a trio of digital fashion submissions “turned into AR fashion wearables by DRESSX, the largest metafashion retailer, and uploaded for the public to try on via their app.”

Three views of the Mugler Spiral Denim jeans with QR code for trying them on in AR via the DRESSX app. Image: SHOWstudio.

The pattern download comes in A4 sheets. A large-format copy-shop version is also included.

Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the jeans pattern (30 pieces)

Size: French 36 | Italian 40 | UK 4 | US 8 | standard Small. Waist 66cm (26″), hips 93cm (36.6″), thigh 52cm (20.5″), knee 35cm (13.8″). Equivalent jeans size 27/28. Equivalent [French] men’s size 46. (Source: Mugler size guide and archived size guide.)

Recommended fabrics: 3.5m heavy denim, 0.2m light cotton.

Notes: Prints on 48 A4 sheets. Includes instructions. Full pattern image also included.

Notions: 2cm jean button, 6 10mm rivets, 16cm metal zipper, 1 spool each topstitching and overlock thread. Optional: leather tag, brand label.

From the SHOWstudio Design Download:

The intellectual property rights in this pattern are owned by MUGLER and the pattern is provided solely for personal, non-commercial use. The pattern must not be used to make products which are offered for sale.

Emilia Clarke in Mugler bustier and spiral jeans, Wonderland magazine, Winter 2019/20. Photo: Christian Oita. Editor: Toni Blaze. Image: Mugler.

3 responses to “Free Designer Pattern: Mugler Spiral Denim”

  1. Rebekka Avatar
    Rebekka

    These look very exciting! Could you give more information about the pattern and the size? Is it a mens cut or womens? Straight legs or tapered? Low waist or high waist? Size 36 – 36 inches waist or European 36 for women (which would be a small). If I am going to cut out and sew 30 pieces for a pantcut would be great to know what the changes are that they are going to fit me. Thank you!

    1. Sarah Sheehan Avatar

      Hi Rebekka, Thanks for your question. I had meant to add more detail to the sizing notes — they’re updated now, based on the understanding that it’s a Mugler, so French, size 36.

      So yes, a French / Mugler 36 is a women’s size Small. The image with the QR code gives an idea of the cut / fit. The AR, virtual fitting room app might still work, I’m not sure. Best of luck!

      1. Rebekka Avatar
        Rebekka

        Thank you for adding the sizing details! I feared that they were going to be model sized and they are. Still interesting to see the pattern pieces.

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