Patterns in Vogue: The Leather Forecast

Linda Evangelista photographed in V1175 at Stansted airport by Nick Knight, 1994. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
Linda Evangelista at Stansted Airport, 1994. Photo: Nick Knight. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

Nick Knight once photographed Linda Evangelista at London’s Stansted Airport in a Vogue minidress.

The pattern is Vogue 1175, a 5 Easy Pieces pattern, cut from white leather from Mystic Leather, NYC.

White looks right against a steely sky or industrial machinery…

Long synonymous with rough and rugged images, leather is being transformed into sleek, sexy shapes with a body-conscious fit (Left: Vogue Patterns; right: Marc Jacobs for Birger Christensen.) Vogue, October 1994 Photo: Nick Knight.
Linda Evangelista in “The Leather Forecast,” Vogue, October 1994. Photo: Nick Knight. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

Patterns in Vogue: Courrèges Edge

Kate Moss in "Courrèges Edge" by Nick Knight, 1995.
Kate Moss in “Courrèges Edge.” Photo: Nick Knight, 1995.

Today we’re used to a firm division between fashion magazines and sewing magazines. But for several decades after Condé Nast sold Vogue Patterns, editorials featuring sewing patterns could still be seen in Vogue magazine—editorials with the same models, photographers, and fashion editors as Vogue’s high fashion shoots. This post is the first in an occasional series on these editorials.

Launching the series is “Courrèges Edge,” a 1995 editorial photographed by Nick Knight and showing Kate Moss in clothes made using patterns from Vogue and Butterick. The shoot covers the Sixties trend with all-white, Courrèges-style looks while playing with the theme of surveillance.

Update: Nick Knight used video footage from the shoot—his first with Kate Moss—in his second fashion film, The More Visible They Make Me, The More Invisible I Become:

Here, Kate Moss’ leather jacket is Vogue 9076; the nylon dress on the right is Butterick 4048:

Vogue, August 1995. Photos: Nick Knight. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
Vogue, August 1995. Photos: Nick Knight. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

Below, Vogue 9170, a coat dress pattern, is shown made up in white leather, and Butterick 3999, sold as a top, is made in silk and worn as a mini dress:

Vogue, August 1995. Photos: Nick Knight. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
Vogue, August 1995. Photos: Nick Knight. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

In the back of the magazine, readers could find technical drawings and further details on the patterns used, all “edited by Vogue”:

In This Issue, Vogue, August 1995.
In This Issue, Vogue, August 1995.

Free Designer Pattern: Stephen Jones Hat

Erin O'Connor in a Stephen Jones hat photographed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio
Erin O’Connor in a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

Royal Ascot begins tomorrow. What better way to celebrate than with a free designer millinery pattern, for a Stephen Jones hat called “Nice Package”?

The hat pattern Stephen Jones recently shared with SHOWstudio was released in early 2012, on the last day of the Paris couture calendar. An exaggerated beret inspired by his lilac hatboxes, the original hat is lilac moiré with a sparkle-embellished, pink satin bow. Here’s a colour photo:

Stephen Jones hat photographed by Peter Ashworth
Photo: Peter Ashworth. Image: Stephen Jones.

The design was drawn from Stephen Jones’ Fall/Winter 2011 collection, Topsy Turvy, which also included a stiletto take on Schiaparelli’s shoe hat. Here is a collection image from the milliner’s website:

Stephen Jones AW2011
Stephen Jones Fall/Winter 2011. Image: Stephen Jones.

SHOWstudio’s image gallery gives “aesthetic hints” on the assembly (click for more):

Erin O'Connor in a Stephen Jones hat photographed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio
Erin O’Connor in a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.
Erin O'Connor in a Stephen Jones hat photographed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio
Erin O’Connor in a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.
Stephen Jones hat pattern at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the hat pattern

Recommended fabrics: For hat: crisp fabrics with body and a slight stiffness such as faille, taffeta, gazar, or firm velvet. For lining: softer fabrics.

Notions: 0.4 m ( about 16″) of 5 cm (2″) satin ribbon; #5 (2.5cm) petersham ribbon; elastic (optional).

Trimming: 0.65 m (about 26″) of 5 cm (2″) ribbon; small sequins, sugar beads, and diamantés for bow embellishment.

U.K. milliner Sharon Bainbridge has made a version of the SHOWstudio hat; read her process post here.

Free Designer Pattern: Junya Watanabe Dress

Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, photographed by Nick Knight
Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, 2005. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

To celebrate this week’s opening of PUNK: Chaos to Couture at the Costume Institute in New York, I’ll be posting about two free patterns for punk-inspired designs. (Kristen McMenamy called last night’s Met gala “a costume party for punk”; see Vogue’s red carpet coverage here.) First up is an example of Junya Watanabe’s “heavy-duty couture”: the dress pattern he shared with SHOWstudio.

Gemma Ward photographed by Nick Knight in Junya Watanabe
Back view, Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, 2005. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

The Watanabe Design Download was part of SHOWstudio’s Dress Me Up, Dress Me Down project, which saw model Liberty Ross being dressed for a live photo shoot by an online audience. The project—whose name refers to the English title of Pedro Almodóvar’s Átame, Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down! (1990)—was inspired by pornographic video chats and had the goal of “exploring the idea of control in fashion image-making.” As well as images and video, the project also had a discussion component, with interviews and short essays on fashion and pornography, including an Andrea Dworkin excerpt. In its appropriation of pornographic conventions, the SHOWstudio project can be linked to punk fashion and art like that of Throbbing Gristle’s Cosey Fanni Tutti (recently seen in Pop Life: Art in a Material World).

The Watanabe design was chosen by Liberty Ross from stylist Jonathan Kaye’s draft selection for the June 2005 SHOWstudio event. The dress is from Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2005 women’s collection—the coming season at the time of the project. The original dress was made in red mohair plaid with a PVC bodice:

Junya Watanabe dress in red PVC and mohair plaid
Junya Watanabe Fall 2005. Model: Cristina Carey. Image: vogue.com.

Watanabe also showed a black version of the dress:

Junya Watanabe dress in black wool and PVC, Fall 2005 women's collection
Junya Watanabe Fall 2005. Model: Ira. Image: vogue.com.

These dresses’ play with textural contrasts carried through the Fall/Winter 2005 Junya Watanabe women’s collection, which paired cotton and textured woolens with synthetics like nylon and PVC. The models wore full-skirted dresses, the skirts sometimes bunched up with ripcords, white shirts with exaggerated collars and ruffles, and coats and jackets made with tweed fused with synthetics. Watanabe referred to the clothes as “hard-core couture.” (See Cathy Horyn, “In Paris, Tweed Tangles With Tulle.”) Here’s the collection image from L’Officiel 1000 modèles:

Junya Watanabe FW 2005 women's RTW - L'Officiel 1000 modèles
Junya Watanabe Fall 2005 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.com.
Junya Watanabe pattern piece at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the dress pattern

Fabric requirements: for skirt, approx. 2 yards of 50″ fabric*

Notions: #10 Vislon zipper, 3mm and 5mm sealing tape

* source: Craftster sewalong post

Free Designer Pattern: Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket

SHOWstudio Alexander McQueen kimono jacket photographed by Nick Knight
Alexander McQueen Scanners kimono jacket. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

Alexander McQueen would have been 44 today. On the occasion of his birthday, here’s a look back at the free pattern McQueen shared with SHOWstudio: the Scanners kimono jacket.

The original kimono jacket was made of black silk, and was shown on the runway with a matching pencil skirt and long gloves (worn by a pre-Outlander Caitriona Balfe):

Caitriona Balfe models the Alexander McQueen kimono jacket available from SHOWstudio
Caitriona Balfe in Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2003 runway show. Image: firstVIEW.

The kimono jacket is drawn from Scanners, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2003 collection. (The invitation to the show was printed with brain scans—CAT scans of the designer’s brain.) This was the year McQueen received his CBE from Queen Elizabeth II, as well as the CFDA’s International Award and his fourth British Fashion Designer of the Year. The models walked across a snowy tundra and along a raised wind tunnel; the design references represented a journey eastward through Siberia, Tibet, and Japan, mixed with geometric prints and McQueen’s signature tailoring. (See Suzy Menkes, “The Collections / Paris: A stellar McQueen; elegance at Viktor & Rolf.”)

Here are the collection images from L’Officiel 1000 modèles (click to enlarge):

LOfficielno33_2003_ScannersA
Alexander McQueen Fall 2003 collection (Scanners). Image: jalougallery.
LOfficielno33_2003_ScannersB
Alexander McQueen Fall 2003 collection (Scanners). Image: jalougallery.

Watch the runway video (kimono jacket at about 6:10):

Kimono-inspired designs are a thread running through McQueen’s work. Here are a few more kimono looks by Alexander McQueen, from Eclect Dissect—Givenchy couture, Fall 1997 (as on the McQueen / Nick Knight album cover for Björk’s Homogenic); La Dame Bleue, in memory of Isabella Blow; and the posthumous Fall 2010 collection:

McQueen kimonos: Eclect Dissect Givenchy Couture FW 1997, La dame bleue McQueen SS 2008, McQueen FW 2010
Kimono-inspired looks from Eclect Dissect, Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 1997; La Dame Bleue, Alexander McQueen Spring 2008, and Alexander McQueen Fall 2010. Images: L’Officiel 1000 modèles and style.com.
Alexander McQueen kimono jacket pieces at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the kimono jacket pattern

Size: US size 6 / UK size 8 approx. (bust 32″ – waist 24″) *

Fabric requirements: approx. 1.75 metres (about 2 yards) of 60″ fabric / over 3 metres (about 3.25 yards) of 39″ fabric *

See the SHOWstudio submissions gallery here. Toronto’s Mel of inside out inside has made an adapted version in Lida Baday fabric. Blithe of blithe stitches has a post on her metallic Hablon version and also a detailed tutorial.

Update: Useful for comparison: the photos of this gold brocade version of the McQueen kimono jacket on 1stdibs:

Back view, Alexander McQueen gold brocade silk blend kimono jacket, 2003
Alexander McQueen silk blend kimono jacket, 2003. Image: 1stdibs.

* Sizes and yardages are approximate and are drawn from Mel and Blithe’s notes on their versions of the kimono jacket.

Free Designer Pattern: Giles Deacon Dress

SHOWstudio image of Giles Deacon's 'Troubadour' dress, modelled by Ranya Mordanova
Giles Deacon’s ‘Troubadour’ dress. Video: Nick Knight. Model: Ranya Mordanova. Image: SHOWstudio.

The latest project in SHOWstudio’s Design Download series is a dress by Giles Deacon. The Design Download project aims to “demystify the fashion process by offering prestigious designer garment patterns for download via the Internet.”

Past Design Downloads have had an interactive component, with people submitting their versions for inclusion in a gallery on the SHOWstudio website. This time it’s a contest, and the winning dress—to be chosen by Giles Deacon and Nick Knight—will be featured in a special SHOWstudio fashion film.

The free pattern design, called the ‘Troubadour’ dress, is drawn from the Fall/Winter 2007 Giles collection. The original was made in green double-faced silk duchesse satin. Here’s the dress on the runway (the late Anna Piaggi is visible in the audience):

Green Troubadour dress modelled on the runway by Lara Stone - Giles Deacon FW 2007
Giles Fall 2007. Model: Lara Stone. Image: vogue.com.

The collection also included a similar dress in orange satin:

Orange Troubadour dress modelled on the runway by Daiane Conterato - Giles FW 2007
Giles Fall 2007. Model: Daiane Conterato. Image: vogue.com.

The Fall/Winter 2007 Giles collection was inspired by savage nature, with lots of feathers, leather, and pops of tropical colour. Deacon said his conceptual starting point was “Google Earth—and then I went off on so many tangents.” (See Suzy Menkes, “School’s Out for Saint Martin’s Master Class.”) Here’s the collection image from L’Officiel 1000 modèles (click to enlarge). The headpieces are by Stephen Jones:

London: Giles FW 2007 rtw in L'Officiel 1000 modeles no. 74
Giles Fall 2007 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.com.

Update: Hywel Davies chose the orange Troubadour dress as the Bath Fashion Museum’s Dress of the Year:

Giles 2007 orange giant knit scarf and silk satin dress (Gina shoes)
Giles: Orange giant knit scarf and silk satin dress, shoes by Gina. Image: The Fashion Museum, Bath.
Giles pattern pieces at SHOWstudio.
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the ‘Troubadour’ dress pattern

Size: UK size 10 (standard measurements: bust 34″ – waist 26″ – hip 37″)

Recommended fabrics: heavy silk, denim, leather, and other fabrics with a good amount of body

There’s still time to enter: the deadline for submissions is Friday, March 15th, 2013 at midnight GMT. (See the SHOWstudio site for submission details.) Will you be entering the contest?