Tania Mallet

June 6, 2017 § 1 Comment

Tania Mallet photographed by Brian Duffy for British Vogue, 1963

Tania Mallet wears Mary Quant and James Wedge on the cover of British Vogue, October 1, 1963. Photo: Brian Duffy. Image: eBay.

Model and Bond girl Tania Mallet (b. 1941) was born in Blackpool to English and Russian-English parents. (Her mother, Olga Mironoff, was Helen Mirren’s paternal aunt.) She began working as a model in the late 1950s after taking a course at the Lucie Clayton Charm Academy. You may recognize her from her role as Tilly Masterson in Goldfinger (1964).

Tania Mallet as Tilly Masterson in Goldfinger (1964). IMDb image ©Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios Inc.

Mallet’s modelling work in the 1960s included editorials for Vogue patterns and Vogue Knitting Book.

Tania Mallet in Vogue Knitting Book no. 60 (Jubilee edition), 1962

Tania Mallet in Vogue Knitting Book no. 60 (Jubilee edition), 1962. Image: Etsy.

The earliest patterns I’ve found featuring Mallet are by French and Italian designers—Jacques Heim and Simonetta:

1960s Jacques Heim suit pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Paris Original 1258

Vogue 1258 by Jacques Heim (1963) Image: Pinterest.

1960s Simonetta dress and coat pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1265

Vogue 1265 by Simonetta (1963) Image: eBay.

Later patterns are by London designers like Ronald Paterson and Jo Mattli:

1960s Ronald Paterson dress pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1391

Vogue 1391 by Ronald Paterson (1964) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

1960s Jo Mattli dress and coat pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1407

Vogue 1407 by Jo Mattli (1964) Image: Etsy.

1960s Jo Mattli two-piece dress pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1661

Vogue 1661 by Jo Mattli (ca. 1967) Image: Etsy.

This daffodil evening ensemble was featured in my Bellville Sassoon post:

1960s Belinda Bellville evening ensemble pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1677

Vogue 1677 by Belinda Bellville (ca. 1966) Image: Etsy.

Here Mallet wears a goddess gown by John Cavanagh:

1960s John Cavanagh evening gown pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1687

Vogue 1687 by John Cavanagh (ca. 1966) Image: eBay.

In this ad for Sekers Fabrics, she wears Forquet gown Vogue 1693 in striped ‘Hero’ lurex:

Tania Mallet wears Vogue 1693 by Federico Forquet in striped lurex (with Vogue 1758 by Ronald Paterson and Vogue 7158)

Tania Mallet wears Vogue 1693 by Federico Forquet (with Vogue 1758 by Ronald Paterson and Vogue 7158). Sekers Fabrics advertisement, 1967.

Full marks for hats and coiffure, don’t you think?

Tania Mallet photographed by Eugene Vernier for the cover of British Vogue, 1961

Tania Mallet in Pucci on the cover of British Vogue, July 1961. Photo: Eugene Vernier. Image: Vogue UK.

Tania Mallet photographed by Harry Meerson forthe cover of Jardin des Modes, 1962

Tania Mallet in Pierre Cardin on the cover of Jardin des Modes, March 1962. Photo: Harry Meerson. Image: Jardin des Modes Covers.

Tania Mallet photographed by Henry Clarke for the cover of British Vogue, 1962 (Brania earrings)

Tania Mallet on the cover of British Vogue, July 1962. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: eBay.

Motherhood, 1971

May 14, 2017 § 3 Comments

Maternity dress pattern Vogue 7952 photographed by Art Barclay, 1971

Vogue 7952 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.

In honour of Mother’s Day, some maternity images from an early ’70s Vogue Pattern Book.

That’s Vogue 7952 by the red Volkswagen bug. (Shoes: Charles Jourdan.) The other maternity patterns are Vogue 7382 and Vogue 8079.

Happy Mother’s Day!

Maternity dress pattern Vogue 7382 photographed by Art Barclay, 1971

Vogue 7382 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.

Maternity top and pants pattern Vogue 8079 photographed by Art Barclay, 1971

Vogue 8079 in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photo: Art Barclay.

1970s family road trip maternity editorial with VW beetle - Vogue Pattern Book, Aug/Sept 1971

“Motherhood” in Vogue Pattern Book, August/September 1971. Photos: Art Barclay.

Pucci 70th Anniversary

May 4, 2017 § Leave a comment

McCall's 3980 by Emilio of Capri photographed on the beach by Howell Conant, McCall's Pattern Book, Spring 1957

A dress by Emilio of Capri in McCall’s Pattern Book, Spring 1957. Photo: Howell Conant.

Pucci has been in the news this week with the announcement that Josephus Thimister will consult on the next collection, following the departure in April of head designer Massimo Giorgetti. (See WWD.) The house of Pucci is also celebrating its 70th anniversary this year.

Before becoming a Vogue Couturier in the 1960s, Emilio Pucci designed exclusive patterns for McCall’s. Howell Conant photographed Pucci’s earliest pattern designs, including the harlequin dress above, for McCall’s Pattern Book. For more on Pucci see my Mad Men-era series post, The Europeans.

Happy 70th anniversary, Pucci!

1960s Pucci Vogue Couturier sewing pattern Vogue 1351

Vogue 1351 by Pucci (1964) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

Patterns in Vogue: Winona Ryder by Ellen von Unwerth

April 17, 2017 § 1 Comment

Ellen von Unwerth – Heimat at the Taschen Gallery, Los Angeles, 2017. Image: Taschen.

If you’re in LA this month, you can catch Ellen von Unwerth’s new show, Heimat, at the Taschen Gallery (to May 1st, 2017). A catalogue is available in two limited editions.

Ellen von Unwerth, Heimat - Bavarian show catalogue, 2017

Ellen von Unwerth, Heimat (Taschen, 2017) Image: Taschen.

In 1993, von Unwerth photographed Winona Ryder for a Vogue cover feature showcasing the season’s silver trend. One of the silver looks—shown twice—was made using a Vogue pattern.

"Riding High" Winona Ryder Vogue feature photographed by Ellen von Unwerth, 1993. "After three intense, adult dramas and the breakup of one romance and the start of another, Winona Ryder celebrates her twenty-second birthday this month with a stellar performance in The Age of Innocence. She tells David Handelman about her cheery new outlook on life and models this season's silver for Ellen Von Unwerth"

Winona Ryder in Vogue, October 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

"Riding High" - Winona Ryder Vogue feature photographed by Ellen von Unwerth, 1993

Winona Ryder in V1446 silver leather coat, Vogue, October 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

"Riding High" - Winona Ryder Vogue feature photographed by Ellen von Unwerth, 1993

Winona Ryder in a Betsey Johnson silver lamé suit and Converse sneakers. Vogue, October 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

"Riding High" - Winona Ryder Vogue feature photographed by Ellen von Unwerth, 1993

Winona Ryder wears a silver leather coat made using Vogue 1446. Vogue, October 1993. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.

Ryder’s duster is the long, view D version of Vogue 1446, made up in silver leather from Libra Leather.

Vogue 1446 (ca. 1984)

Vogue 1446 (ca. 1984) Image: Sew Exciting Needleworks.

Patterns in Vogue: The Insiders (Galentine’s Day Edition)

February 13, 2017 § Leave a comment

Detail - Regina Jaffrey photographed in Vogue 8888 by Chris von Wangenheim, 1974

Detail, Vogue, November 1974. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.

Galentine’s Day calls for slumber party-worthy loungewear. “The Insiders,” a mid-1970s Chris von Wangenheim editorial photographed in interior designer Angelo Donghia’s New York townhouse, includes three Vogue patterns made up in gleaming satin.

"The Insiders" - Regina Jaffrey and unknown model in Vogue 8888, 1127, and 8855 photographed by Chris von Wangenheim, 1974

“The insiders… make their own gleam”: loungewear patterns in Vogue, November 1974. Photos: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.

On the left, Regina Jaffrey wears robe Vogue 8888 and trousers Vogue 1127; the model on the right is wearing jacket and drawstring pants Vogue 8855. Both ensembles were made in Qiana nylon, from American Silk Mills and Jules Moskowitz. (Hair by Maury Hopson; jewels: Van Cleef & Arpels.)

Detail - model photographed in Vogue 8855 by Chris von Wangenheim, 1974

Detail, Vogue, November 1974. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim. Image: The Fashion Spot.

See Sighs and Whispers’ repost for the full editorial.

1970s patterns Vogue 8888, Vogue 1127, and Vogue 8855

Pattern images: Roma’s Maison, Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Patterns in Vogue: On the Move

January 19, 2017 § 1 Comment

1980s Geoffrey Beene dress pattern Vogue 1771 photographed for Vogue by Denis Piel

Detail, Vogue, August 1986. Photo: Denis Piel.

“On the move” is the concept for a mid-’80s Denis Piel pattern editorial featuring designs from Geoffrey Beene’s career line.

Here, Vogue 1770, Beene’s wrap jacket and skirt, is shown in wool jersey from Jasco Fabrics, with dress Vogue 1771 in Horikoshi silk crepe (Bally briefcase; Donna Karan bags; Omega belt; bracelets by Eric Beamon):

Vogue 1770 and 1771 by Geoffrey Beene, photographed for Vogue by Denis Piel

Vogue 1770 and 1771 by Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, August 1986. Photos: Denis Piel.

On the left, Vogue 1771’s jacket is made reversible in red and black wool coating, with wool gabardine trousers and a silk charmeuse tank made using Vogue 1773 (wool from Anglo Fabrics; silk from Hi Fashion Fabrics). At right, Vogue 1773’s coat becomes a raincoat in cotton back polyurethane from Waldon Textiles, with a cotton corduroy contrast from Majestic Mills (Omega belt; bags, Maud Frizon and Prada):

Vogue 1771 and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene, photographed for Vogue by Denis Piel.

Vogue 1771 and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, August 1986. Photos: Denis Piel.

In the back of the magazine, readers could find sewing tips for making the jacket reversible and giving the coat a contrast collar:

Details on Vogue 1770, 1771, and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene

Details on Vogue 1770, 1771, and 1773 by Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, August 1986.

Vogue 1770, 1771, 1773 by Geoffrey Beene

Pattern images: Vintage Pattern Wiki, Design Rewind Fashions.

Patterns in Vogue: How to Make the Most of a Beautiful Print

September 18, 2016 § 2 Comments

Ann Schaufuss photographed by Clive Arrowsmith for British Vogue, autumn 1970

Detail, British Vogue, October 1, 1970. Photo: Clive Arrowsmith. Model: Ann Schaufuss. Image: Youthquakers.

How to make the most of a beautiful print? As an early ’70s British Vogue editorial puts it, “Cape it… blouse it… kilt it.”

The Clive Arrowsmith editorial features Ann Schaufuss in three Vogue patterns that present the silhouettes of fall 1970 in glowing, ink-coloured prints. From Nina Ricci, Vogue 2406 is an “enveloping berber cape” and sleeveless dress made from two Staron fabrics in the same “glass-flower” print: a luxurious wool-viscose-polyamide for the cape and panne velvet for the dress, available at Harrods and Gasmey, London.

Ann Schaufuss in Vogue Paris Original 2406 by Nina Ricci, photographed by Clive Arrowsmith, 1970

Vogue 2406 by Nina Ricci, British Vogue, October 1, 1970. Photo: Clive Arrowsmith. Model: Ann Schaufuss. Image: Youthquakers.

The second look pairs a yoked, full-sleeved blouse, Vogue 7538, and long Miss Vogue kilt Vogue 7889. The blouse is turquoise silk crepe de chine from Gasmey, while the kilt is Bombyx rayon panne velvet in a green and jewel-toned print, available at Liberty (boots to order at The Chelsea Cobbler):

Ann Schaufuss wears blouse Vogue 7538 and skirt Miss Vogue 7889, photographed for Vogue UK by Clive Arrowsmith

Vogue 7538 and 7889 in British Vogue, October 1, 1970. Photo: Clive Arrowsmith. Model: Ann Schaufuss. Image: Youthquakers.

The boho Baba Yaga look may not be to everyone’s taste, but velvet and early ’70s style are trends for fall 2016… Time to dig out some vintage prints?

(See Youthquakers for more of the October issue.)

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