PatternVault

Happy Pride! Continuing PatternVault’s Pride Month celebrations, this post is devoted to a free Atsuko Kudo pattern.

In 2023, as part of SHOWstudio’s Design Download series, Atsuko Kudo shared a partial pattern for the Restricted trench coat. The couture latex designer’s work has been worn by performers like Gillian Anderson and queer icon Lady Gaga.

From the designer’s website:

“From Tokyo’s underground clubs to the world’s fashion capitals, Atsuko Kudo — a visionary Japanese-born designer based in London — has transformed latex from a niche fetish material into a medium for self-expression and political statement. Known for her exquisite couture, made-to-measure latex creations worn by icons from Beyoncé to Rihanna, Madonna, and Lady Gaga — including Gaga’s iconic red latex gown for meeting the Queen — Atsuko Kudo talks about latex as liberation.”

The Restricted trench was part of the Restricted Love collection, inspired by Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love (2000) and created by Atsuko Kudo as a fundraiser held as part of Lingerie London 2012.

Atsuko Kudo’s calf-length Restricted trench coat is now a perennial design at the couture latex label, available in different prints and in all the colours of the rainbow. (See the Atsuko Kudo / SHOWstudio semi-transparent version here.)

From the SHOWstudio Design Download:

“As Atsuko Kudo designs and produces garments solely from latex material our version of the trench coat is defined very much by the material we use but also by Atsuko’s penchant for beautiful, precise tailoring.

Though the trench coat style is quite traditional, latex is quite new compared to many other materials. We find that the mixture of old and new is interesting. Perhaps you may find other fabrics from which to construct your trench which may have an equally interesting tension.”

This Design Download has a greater than usual interactive component, since the designer left the pattern deliberately incomplete.

At the same time, instructions are provided to help those who are new to the challenges of working with latex. The pattern can also be adapted from a glued to a sewn design.

The concept of the design (and partial pattern) is based on levels of translucence, with pattern pieces provided for the more opaque, layered sections of the coat. The front, back, and sleeves are to be drafted according to your own interpretation of the classic trench.

“Latex has quite a strong association with punk and the DIY spirit, so that may be a great inspiration, as it always is for us.”

— Atsuko Kudo

The pattern download comes in A4 sheets.

Download the trench coat pattern (19 pieces)

Recommended fabrics: Semi-transparent latex, opaque latex, other newer material; reinforcement fabric (for buttons)

Size: As shown: Petite / sample size. (Nausicaa Yami identifies as a petite model.) However, the partial pattern makes the size DIY.

Notes: Prints on 25 A4 sheets, including instructions and primer on working with latex.

Notions, tools, supplies: Belt buckle, larger buttons, smaller buttons, plus:

• latex glue and/or white glue such as Copydex
• latex cleaner
• sharp scissors
• rotary cutter
• cutting ruler
• pressure roller
• cutting mat
• gel pens
• J cloths
• nitrile gloves
• latex polish