Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis: Vogue Patterns, Part 1

April 5, 2013 § 5 Comments

Michaela Bercu wears Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs, Vogue, November 1989

Michaela Bercu wears Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs, Vogue, November 1989. Image via the Fashion Model Directory.

Can you believe the early-nineties revival in fashion right now? We remember Marc Jacobs’ ‘grunge’ collection for Perry Ellis as a turning point in ’90s fashion. It’s easy to forget that Jacobs had been designing for Perry Ellis since the late 1980s. It was Perry Ellis who persuaded Jacobs to enrol at Parsons and, before his death, Ellis had said he wanted Jacobs and his business partner, Robert Duffy, to join his company. Jacobs and Duffy were hired in 1988, and Jacobs presented his first collection for Perry Ellis, for Fall 1989, at the Puck Building in Soho.

Vogue Patterns’ licensing agreement with Perry Ellis lasted into the 1990s: the company’s Perry Ellis patterns from the 1990s represent some of Marc Jacobs’ earlier work. Here’s a selection of Perry Ellis patterns by Marc Jacobs from the early ’90s.

A dress from Marc Jacobs’ 1989 Resort collection for Perry Ellis made the cover of Vogue magazine (see above). Vogue 2475 has the same yellow and white stripes (is that Carla Bruni?):

1990s Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis pattern - Vogue 2475

Vogue 2475 Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis (1990) Image via eBay.

The March/April 1990 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine included an interview introducing Marc Jacobs, accompanied by an editorial shoot showing two Perry Ellis patterns, Vogue 2474 and 2475:

VoguePatternsMarApr1990_Ellis2

Marc Jacobs in Vogue Patterns magazine, March/April 1990. Image via eBay.

Vogue Patterns MarApr1990 Ellis1

Vogue 2475 and 2474 in Vogue Patterns magazine, March/April 1990. Image via eBay.

Update: the young Marc Jacobs could also be seen in the counter catalogue:

"American Originals" - Marc Jacobs with model in Vogue patterns 2474 and 2475, ca 1990

Marc Jacobs with model in Vogue 2474 and 2475, Vogue Patterns catalogue, June 1990. Image: Karsten Moran for the New York Times.

These two patterns from 1991 also have a ‘resort’ feel:

1990s Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis pattern - Vogue 2665

Vogue 2665 by Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis (1991) Image via patronescostura on Etsy.

1990s Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis pattern - Vogue 2666

Vogue 2666 by Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis (1991) Image via patronescostura on Etsy.

Vogue 2475’s yellow stripes were also seen in the Spring 1991 collection, and stripes made a reappearance the following spring. Here are collection images for Marc Jacobs’ Spring 1991 and 1992 collections for Perry Ellis (presented in 1990 and 1991):

Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis, SS 1991 - L'Officiel 1000 modèles no. 4, 2012

Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis, Spring/Summer 1991. Image via jalougallery.com.

L'Officiel 1000 modèles no. 4, 2012 Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs SS 1992

Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis, Spring/Summer 1992. Image via jalougallery.com.

This pattern for daywear separates with colour blocking looks more like a Fall/Winter design (the companion pattern was Vogue 2759):

1990s Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis pattern - Vogue 2760

Vogue 2760 by Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis (1991) Image via Amazon.

Here’s the collection image for Marc Jacobs’ Fall 1990 collection for Perry Ellis:

LOfficiel 1000modeles no4 2012 Ellis Jacobs FW 1990

Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis, Fall/Winter 1990. Image via jalougallery.com.

(A free knitting pattern is available for the New York skyline sweater at VogueKnitting.com.)

In retrospect, the headline for Vogue Patterns’ 1990 interview—“Marc Jacobs: Doing it his way”—is ironic considering the circumstances of the designer’s firing after his Spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellis. You can see more early Marc Jacobs designs for Perry Ellis in L’Officiel 1000 modèles’ 2012 hors-série issue devoted to Marc Jacobs.

Next: Marc Jacobs’ ‘grunge’ collection for Perry Ellis.

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§ 5 Responses to Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis: Vogue Patterns, Part 1

  • Pixie says:

    So much pretty here, more than I expected for a late 80s/early 90s post! I die for that jumper with the words about success and giving up. I would buy that right now, I want it a lot!

    I also have a real soft spot for those little 80s sundresses with the nice fitted trapezoidal shapes coming up to the straps. They’re a bit of an antidote for all the lab coat shaped jackets from that period.

    • PatternVault says:

      Thanks, glad I could surprise you! There’s at least one other Perry Ellis Spring 1991 sweater with text – it was modelled by Anh Duong, and says “Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.” You can see it here.
      If you knit, it looks like Vogue Knitting had Perry Ellis patterns ca. 1990; I’ve updated the post with a link.

  • I agree with Pixie, there was a lot there that I liked. I vaguely remember the nineties and what I do remember is plaid, flannel and black boots worn with dresses. Shudder. And, look at Marc! He looks so freshly scrubbed and collegiate.

  • […] fresh. He is a fantastic designer, and later patterns into the 1990s were created by Marc Jacobs. Sarah Sheehan has written some interesting articles on the fashion house. Most of the patterns I show below are available at relatively low prices as […]

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