’90s OMG! (Oh My Goth)

Danielle Z Ellen von Unwerth French Quarter Jill Stuart sequined sheer camisole Karl Lagerfeld black viscose pants Krizia lace gloves Prada leather pumps
W magazine, June 1997. Model: Danielle Z. Photographed in New Orleans by Ellen von Unwerth.

Setting aside the corsets, Morticia costumes* and Ren fair looks that may come up in a “goth pattern” search, this is the only pattern I’ve seen that truly testifies to that time in the ’90s when goth was trendy:

Vogue 2072 Anna Sui 1990s gothic dress top fingerless gloves Vogue Attitudes 1997
Vogue Attitudes 2072 by Anna Sui (1997) Dress, top and fingerless gloves.
Technical drawing for Vogue 2072
Technical drawing for Vogue 2072

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ dress, top & gloves. Lined dress, above mid-knee, has close-fitting bodice variations, dirndl skirt, attached petticoat with yokes/ruffles and back zipper. A: elasticized gathers below waist. B: boned bodice with princess seams and purchased trim. close-fitting, pullover top has neck binding, stitched hems and long sleeves. Close-fitting gloves have narrow hem.

What I find delightful about Vogue 2072 (in addition to from the fact that it enables you to make your own stretch mesh top and fingerless gloves) is the variety of fabrics required for its frilly goth-out: double edged scalloped lace for the dress, organza for the lining and underlining of yoke and bodice, chiffon for the skirt lining, and tulle for the petticoat, as well as velvet ribbon and pre-gathered lace trim.

Vogue 1290 is a close second. I was surprised to see it’s still in print (now out of print).

Vogue 1290 1990s gothic jacket dress top pants Vogue pattern
Vogue 1290 (ca. 1994) Jacket, dress, top and pants. Image: Out of the Ashes Collectibles.

Full disclosure: During the ’90s I actually had the first two patterns** linked above made up. As well as view C of Vogue 1290.

Happy Hallowe’en everyone!

* It must be admitted that the children’s version of the 1992 Addams Family costumes, Simplicity 7991 / 0630, is unforgivably cute.

** Vogue 1605 by Bellville Sassoon and Simplicity 7990 / 0629.

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