Mirella Petteni

February 13, 2018 § 3 Comments

Mirella Petteni photographed by Helmut Newton in Venice, 1966

Mirella Petteni in Venice, 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Tumblr.

Happy Mardi Gras! To celebrate the last day of Carnival, here’s a look at the star of Helmut Newton’s 1966 Venetian shoot: Italian model and socialite Mirella Petteni Haggiag.

Born in Bergamo, Mirella Petteni moved to Milan to work as a model. As the wife of film producer Robert Haggiag, Petteni was also a society figure with residences in Venice, Tuscany, New York, and Rome’s Palazzo Mengarini. (See T magazine.) She retired from modelling to become an editor at Vogue Italia.

Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Sweet Jane.

Petteni can be seen on many Vogue Couturier Designs by Italian designers.

Mirella Petteni in Pucci

Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

Vogue 1397 by Pucci, March 1965 retail catalogue

Vogue 1397 by Pucci, March 1965 retail catalogue. Image: Pinterest.

Petteni also appears in a Vogue holiday editorial that includes two Vogue Special designs (Vogue 6084 and 6054):

Vogue 6084 and 6054

In Vogue 6084 and 6054, Vogue, December 1963. Photos: Irving Penn? Image: Youthquakers.

Here she wears Galitzine’s halter and culotte:

Vogue 1393 by Galitzine (1964) Image: Etsy.

Here, in Pucci’s bestselling cape-jacket ensemble, Petteni’s aspirational hair is an added bonus:

1960s Pucci pink ensemble pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1394

Vogue 1394 by Pucci (1964) Image: Etsy.

Image: Etsy.

In white dresses from Fabiani and Forquet:

1960s Forquet 2-piece dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1402

Vogue 1402 by Federico Forquet (1964). Image: Create-Everyday.

1960s Fabiani dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1866

Vogue 1866 by Fabiani (1967) Image: Etsy.

1960s Fabiani dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1899

Vogue 1899 by Fabiani (1968) Image: Etsy.

Sorbet colour-blocking from Pucci:

1960s Pucci culotte pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1865

Vogue 1865 by Pucci (1967) Image: Etsy.

1960s Pucci dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1955

Vogue 1955 by Pucci (1968) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

In Forquet’s short, half-bias evening dress:

1960s Forquet dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1957

Vogue 1957 by Federico Forquet (1968) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Here she poses with Benedetta Barzini in early Valentino:

Benedetta Barzini and Mirella Petteni in Valentino, at Agnese Bruguier's apartment in the Palazzo Borghese, Rome, 1968

Benedetta Barzini and Mirella Petteni in Valentino, at Agnese Bruguier’s apartment in the Palazzo Borghese, Rome, Vogue, September 1968. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: tumblr.

Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: tumblr.

Jill Kennington

January 2, 2018 § Leave a comment

Winter Looks: Jill Kennington in Vogue 1676 by Elio Berhanyer, Vogue Pattern Book International Winter 1966

Jill Kennington in Vogue 1676 by Elio Berhanyer, Vogue Pattern Book International, Winter 1966. Image: eBay.

British model-turned-photographer Jill Kennington turns 75 today.

Born and raised in Lincolnshire, Jill Kennington (b. 1943) moved to London at 18, working at Harrods and staying with her aunt, who was a buyer there. Scouted by Michael Whittaker, the founder of the Whittaker Enterprises agency, she was hired as a house model at Norman Hartnell before she could finish the agency course.

Vogue Pattern Book, UK edition, Summer 1966

Vogue Pattern Book International, Summer 1966. Image: Vintage Chic.

Kennington was one of two models in John Cowan’s famous shoot in the Canadian Arctic. (See the full editorial at vogue.com.) You might recognize her from Michelangelo Antonioni’s Blow-Up. (Read her reminiscences in Vanity Fair.)

"The Girl who went out in the cold" editorial - Georges Kaplan ostrich feather coat; Halston hat.

At Resolute Bay, Vogue, November 1964. Photo: John Cowan. Image: Pleasure Photo.

Jill Kennington (left) with Peggy Moffitt and other London models in Michelangelo Antonioni's Blow-Up

Jill Kennington (left) in Blow-Up (1966) Image: Vanity Fair.

That’s Kennington in Emmanuelle Khanh’s dress pattern in Queen magazine. (Previously seen in my Butterick Young Designers post.)

Butterick Emmanuelle Khanhdress_pressphoto1965

Butterick 3718 by Emmanuelle Khanh, Queen, August 11, 1965. Image: Amazon.

Here she models some mod knitwear by Mary Quant:

Patons 101 Courtelle Double Knitting no. 9702 by Mary Quant (ca. 1966) - price 9d

Patons no. 9702 by Mary Quant (ca. 1966)

Kennington can be seen on some of Vogue’s earliest Givenchy patterns. This evening dress was also featured on the cover of the February retail catalogue:

1960s Givenchy evening dress pattern feat. Jill Kennington - Vogue Paris Original 1698

Vogue 1698 by Givenchy (1967)

In Vogue 1707 by Fabiani:

Jill Kennington in Vogue 1707 by Fabiani on the cover of the Vogue retail catalogue, April 1967

FABIANI 1707: Vogue Patterns catalogue, April 1967. Image: Etsy.

More Vogue Paris Originals and Couturier patterns featuring Kennington:

1960s Marc Bohan for Dior cerise dress suit pattern Vogue Paris Original 1725

Vogue 1725 by Marc Bohan for Christian Dior (1967) Image: eBay.

1960s Laroche dress and coat pattern Vogue Paris Original 1737

Vogue 1737 by Laroche (1967) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

1960s Simonetta dress pattern Vogue Couturier Design 1746

Vogue 1746 by Simonetta (1967) Image: Blue Gardenia.

1960s Lanvin dress pattern Vogue Paris Original 1747

Vogue 1747 by Lanvin (1967) Image: eBay.

In a flight-themed British Vogue editorial, wearing Young Fashionables hooded jumpsuit Vogue 6376:

"Out of the Blue," Vogue UK Feb 1967 Traeger

Vogue 6376 in British Vogue, February 1967. Photo: Ronald Traeger. Image: Youthquakers.

Happy birthday, Ms. Kennington!

Jill Kennington photographed by Lichfield, 1964 - NPG London

Jill Kennington, 1964. Photo: Lichfield. Image: National Portrait Gallery.

Jill Kennington photographed by William Klein in Pierre Cardin, Weekend Telegraph, fall 1965

Is Paris dead? Jill Kennington in Pierre Cardin, Weekend Telegraph, September 3, 1965. Photo: William Klein. Image: eBay.

Jill Kennington photographed by Helmut Newton for Queen magazine, January 1966

Jill Kennington in Queen, January 5, 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Pinterest.

1960s Queen Christmas cover featuring Jill Kennington photographed by David Montgomery

Jill Kennington on the cover of Queen‘s Christmas issue. Photo: David Montgomery. Image: eBay.

Patterns in Vogue: Making Up a Legend

July 20, 2017 § Leave a comment

Celia Hammond photographed by David Bailey for British Vogue, fall 1968

Celia Hammond in British Vogue, October 1968. Photo: David Bailey.

A late ’60s loungewear pattern is the star of “Making Up a Legend,” photographed for British Vogue by David Bailey.

Celia Hammond wears Vogue 7430, made up in wave-patterned Schwarzenbach brocade in green and gold Lurex, with gold Mary Quant tights pulled up to cover the bare midriff. The gold belt is by the late, great Kenneth Jay Lane.

Celia Hammond in Vogue 7430 loungewear, Kenneth Jay Lane belt, and Mary Quant tights, photographed by David Bailey, 1968

Vogue 7430 in British Vogue, October 1968. Photo: David Bailey. Model: Celia Hammond. Image: Youthquakers.

(See Youthquakers for more from this issue.)

Late 1960s two-piece loungewear and sash pattern Vogue 7430

Vogue 7430 (1968) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Tania Mallet

June 6, 2017 § 1 Comment

Tania Mallet photographed by Brian Duffy for British Vogue, 1963

Tania Mallet wears Mary Quant and James Wedge on the cover of British Vogue, October 1, 1963. Photo: Brian Duffy. Image: eBay.

Model and Bond girl Tania Mallet (b. 1941) was born in Blackpool to English and Russian-English parents. (Her mother, Olga Mironoff, was Helen Mirren’s paternal aunt.) She began working as a model in the late 1950s after taking a course at the Lucie Clayton Charm Academy. You may recognize her from her role as Tilly Masterson in Goldfinger (1964).

Tania Mallet as Tilly Masterson in Goldfinger (1964). IMDb image ©Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios Inc.

Mallet’s modelling work in the 1960s included editorials for Vogue patterns and Vogue Knitting Book.

Tania Mallet in Vogue Knitting Book no. 60 (Jubilee edition), 1962

Tania Mallet in Vogue Knitting Book no. 60 (Jubilee edition), 1962. Image: Etsy.

The earliest patterns I’ve found featuring Mallet are by French and Italian designers—Jacques Heim and Simonetta:

1960s Jacques Heim suit pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Paris Original 1258

Vogue 1258 by Jacques Heim (1963) Image: Pinterest.

1960s Simonetta dress and coat pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1265

Vogue 1265 by Simonetta (1963) Image: eBay.

Later patterns are by London designers like Ronald Paterson and Jo Mattli:

1960s Ronald Paterson dress pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1391

Vogue 1391 by Ronald Paterson (1964) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

1960s Jo Mattli dress and coat pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1407

Vogue 1407 by Jo Mattli (1964) Image: Etsy.

1960s Jo Mattli two-piece dress pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1661

Vogue 1661 by Jo Mattli (ca. 1967) Image: Etsy.

This daffodil evening ensemble was featured in my Bellville Sassoon post:

1960s Belinda Bellville evening ensemble pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1677

Vogue 1677 by Belinda Bellville (ca. 1966) Image: Etsy.

Here Mallet wears a goddess gown by John Cavanagh:

1960s John Cavanagh evening gown pattern feat. Tania Mallet, Vogue Couturier Design 1687

Vogue 1687 by John Cavanagh (ca. 1966) Image: eBay.

In this ad for Sekers Fabrics, she wears Forquet gown Vogue 1693 in striped ‘Hero’ lurex:

Tania Mallet wears Vogue 1693 by Federico Forquet in striped lurex (with Vogue 1758 by Ronald Paterson and Vogue 7158)

Tania Mallet wears Vogue 1693 by Federico Forquet (with Vogue 1758 by Ronald Paterson and Vogue 7158). Sekers Fabrics advertisement, 1967.

Full marks for hats and coiffure, don’t you think?

Tania Mallet photographed by Eugene Vernier for the cover of British Vogue, 1961

Tania Mallet in Pucci on the cover of British Vogue, July 1961. Photo: Eugene Vernier. Image: Vogue UK.

Tania Mallet photographed by Harry Meerson forthe cover of Jardin des Modes, 1962

Tania Mallet in Pierre Cardin on the cover of Jardin des Modes, March 1962. Photo: Harry Meerson. Image: Jardin des Modes Covers.

Tania Mallet photographed by Henry Clarke for the cover of British Vogue, 1962 (Brania earrings)

Tania Mallet on the cover of British Vogue, July 1962. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: eBay.

Marisa Berenson

February 15, 2017 § Leave a comment

Marisa Berenson in Vogue 7827 on the cover of Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970

Marisa Berenson on the cover of Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Marisa Berenson (b. 1947) turns 70 today. Though best known for her work as a film actor in movies like Visconti’s Death in Venice (1971), Cabaret (1972), and Barry Lyndon (1975), Berenson grew up wanting to be a fashion model. Her career was launched when she met Diana Vreeland at a society ball, and she became one of the most successful models of the ’60s and ’70s. For more, see the visual biography Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures (Rizzoli, 2011).

Marisa Berenson promoting Kubrick's Barry Lyndon on the cover of Interview, Jan. 1975

Marisa Berenson as the Countess of Lyndon on the cover of Andy Warhol’s Interview, January 1975. Image: eBay.

As far as I know, Berenson appears on only one pattern envelope: Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta. Taken in a New York interior, the photo was also published in a 1970 Vogue Pattern Book feature on the designer:

1970s Oscar de la Renta dress pattern feat. Marisa Berenson, Vogue 2369

Vogue 2369 by Oscar de la Renta (1970) Image: Etsy.

Berenson can also be seen in Vreeland-era pattern editorials in Vogue magazine, like this shoot by Guy Bourdin (see my earlier post):

Marisa Berenson photographed by Guy Bourdin in Vogue pattern 6916

Marisa Berenson in Vogue, August 15, 1966. Photos: Guy Bourdin.

Irving Penn’s “Look Marvellous” editorial, showcasing clothes in American fabrics, included Berenson in Vogue 7017 and Vogue 7022 (via Youthquakers):

Marisa Berenson photographed by Irving Penn in Vogue 7017 and 7022, shown in Forstmann and Anglo wool

“Look Marvellous”: Marisa Berenson in Vogue, January 15, 1967. Photos: Irving Penn. Image: Youthquakers.

This Gianni Penati editorial shows two Vogue Paris Originals by Marc Bohan for Dior, Vogue 1787 and Vogue 1792:

Marisa Berenson photographed by Gianni Penati in Dior patterns 1787 and 1792

“Hit Knits: the geometric jerseys.” Marisa Berenson in Vogue, June 1967. Photos: Gianni Penati.

The issue of Vogue Pattern Book with the Berenson cover (shown above) includes more of her editorial work. In “New Evening Splendour,” she wears the cover look, caftan Vogue 7827, as well as Vogue 7834 and Vogue 7836:

vpb junjul 1970 7836

Vogue 7836 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7827 caftan in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7827 caftan, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7834 Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Vogue 7834 poncho and pants, Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970. Photo: Otto Storch.

Berenson also models some jumpsuits in a summer portfolio—Vogue 7697 in a groovy print:

7697 Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970

Vogue 7697 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

High-waisted jumpsuit Vogue 7818:

7818 Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

Vogue 7818 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

And short jumpsuit and wrap skirt Vogue 7812:

Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970

Vogue 7812 in Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1970.

Happy birthday, Ms. Berenson!

Marisa Berenson on the Tom Ford Spring 2011 runway

Marisa Berenson on the runway for Tom Ford’s Spring 2011 collection. Photo: Terry Richardson. Image: Harper’s Bazaar.

Patterns in Vogue: The Silky Way

December 31, 2016 § Leave a comment

Brigitte Bauer photographed in Vogue pattern no. 6596 by Gordon Parks for British Vogue, 1965

Brigitte Bauer in British Vogue, November 1965. Photo: Gordon Parks. Image: Youthquakers.

A Gordon Parks editorial for British Vogue features Brigitte Bauer in NYE-worthy evening patterns.

Brigitte Bauer photographed by Gordon Parks in cocktail dress and toga gown made from Vogue patterns 6628 and 6596, November 1965

Vogue 6628 and 6596, British Vogue, November 1965. Photo: Gordon Parks. Model: Brigitte Bauer. Image: Youthquakers.

The patterns are Vogue 6628 and Vogue 6596, both Vogue Special designs. The cocktail sheath was made up in pale apple green wild silk from Dickins & Jones, the one-shouldered gown in light almond green Abraham silk crepe from Allan’s of Duke Street.

See Youthquakers for more of the November issue.

Happy New Year, all the best for 2017!

James Galanos: Vogue Patterns

December 16, 2016 § 3 Comments

Silk burnooses by Galanos photographed by James Moore for the cover of Harper's Bazaar, October 1966

Silk burnooses by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, October 1966. Photo: James Moore. Image: eBay.

This week, a look at the late James Galanos’ licensed Vogue patterns. (See my McCall’s post here.)

James Galanos Vogue pattern envelope flap with biographical note

James Galanos Vogue pattern envelope flap. Image: eBay.

1960s

"Vogue Americana presents The Masterful Touch of James Galanos": Maud Adams wears V1854 by Galanos

Maud Adams wears Vogue 1854 by James Galanos on the cover of the Vogue Patterns catalogue, January 1968. Image: eBay.

Vogue Patterns introduced James Galanos patterns in late 1967, with two dress designs modelled by Maud Adams and Lauren Hutton. The counter catalogue promotes Galanos’ “masterful touch” with an alternate shot of Vogue 1854, an A-line dress with side pleats at right front and left back:

1960s James Galanos dress pattern - Vogue Americana 1854

Vogue 1854 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Maud Adams. Image: Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Lauren Hutton models Vogue 1855, a coat dress with double inverted pleats in the back:

1960s James Galanos coat dress pattern feat. Lauren Hutton - Vogue 1855

Vogue 1855 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Lauren Hutton. Image: eBay.

This short, wrap-effect evening dress has square armholes and front pleats concealing pockets:

1960s James Galanos evening dress pattern - Vogue 2071

Vogue 2071 by James Galanos (1969) Image: Etsy.

1970s

Later Galanos patterns were photographed on location in New York, where the designer showed his collections. This dress goes one further than Vogue 1855 and has double inverted pleats in both front and back:

1970s James Galanos dress pattern - Vogue 2269

Vogue 2269 by James Galanos (1970) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Jumpsuit Vogue 2524 features a shoulder yoke, pintucks, and wide, corded belt:

1970s James Galanos jumpsuit pattern - Vogue 2524

Vogue 2524 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

The latest Galanos pattern I’ve seen is Vogue 2639, a long-sleeved evening dress with front slit and waistline smocking detail:

1970s James Galanos evening dress pattern - Vogue 2639

Vogue 2639 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

A dreamy illustration made the cover of the news leaflet:

1970s Galanos evening dress Vogue 2639 illustrated by Ron Becker for Vogue Pattern Fashion News

Vogue 2639 by James Galanos on the cover of Vogue Pattern Fashion News, January 1972. Illustration: Ron Becker. Image: eBay.

For more on James Galanos, see Hamish Bowles’ obituary for Vogue or watch LACMA’s 1996 documentary, Galanos on Galanos (with thanks to Jen O of the Pintucks blog).

Donna Mitchell, "Black silk ottoman cloqué sheath wreathed in feathers by Galanos" photographed by Melvin Sokolsky for Bazaar, fall 1963

Feather-trimmed sheath in silk ottoman cloqué by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, November 1963. Photo: Melvin Sokolsky. Model: Donna Mitchell. Image: Paper Pursuits.

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