Lanvin at the Cinémathèque

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With the 78th edition of the Festival de Cannes starting today, here’s a look at a couture pattern with a fun cinematic connection.

When Vogue’s Clifford Coffin photographed the first batch of Paris Originals on location in Paris, circa 1949, he shot the Lanvin design in a museum setting, beside a fantastical red figure that’s mostly out of the frame.

Lanvin dress in Vogue, March 1, 1949. Photo: Clifford Coffin. Image: Vogue Archive.
Detail, Lanvin dress in Vogue, March 1, 1949. Photo: Clifford Coffin. Image: Vogue Archive.

It’s the Selenite from Georges Méliès’ Voyage dans la Lune (1902) — revealing the location as the Musée de la Cinémathèque, in its old digs at the Palais de Chaillot on the Trocadéro. The model of the moon-dweller in Méliès’ landmark film was recreated for the museum ca. 1947, not long before Vogue’s photo shoot.

Later sculpture of a Selenite from Voyage dans la Lune (1902), recreated by Félix Labisse after Georges Méliès, 1960. Photo: Stéphane Dabrowski © Cinémathèque française
“Les Sélénites” drawing by Georges Méliès © Cinémathèque française

Vogue’s suggested fabrics match the colours in Coffin’s photograph: grey wool jersey like the couture original, and “flame Foreman silk Shantung” like the red of Méliès’ lunar being.

By Lanvin – Vogue, March 1, 1949. Photo: Clifford Coffin. Image: Vogue Archive.
Early Vogue Paris Original pattern 1052 envelope with drawings of a model in a Lanvin dress and handwritten text: "one-piece dress — waist coat look"
Vogue 1052 by Marie-Blanche de Polignac for Lanvin (1949) Image: eBay.

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