McCall’s – PatternVault

Neo-Egyptian cover of *Needlecraft,* June 1929. Illustration: Reginald P. Ward. Image: eBay.

The tomb of Tutankhamun was rediscovered in November, 1922, making 2022 the centennial of all things King Tut. Yet as an early McCall transfer pattern shows, Neo-Egyptomania was already underway:

4 long wing motifs 1 1/2 x 9 1/4 inches2 scarab motifs 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 inches, 16 scarab motifs 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches 4 yds. of 3/4-inch double banding (given in a double strip) 4 scarab and scroll motifs 2 3/4 x 6 inches 4 large motifs 8 x 14 inches — McCall 1039 (1920) Kaumagraph Transfer Pattern – Egyptian Design for Dress Trimming. Image: eBay.

McCall 1039 in *McCall’s* magazine, June 1920. Image: archive.org.

“Egyptian Design for Dress Trimming” (McCall 1039) dates to spring 1920, but was still being advertised three years later, explicitly referencing the King Tut trend.

Update: This design was in fact reissued in 1923 in the company’s new format. A note on the back reads, “These motifs are decidedly smart for embroidering dresses, blouses, panels of skirts, pockets, belts, hats, etc. The Egyptian colorings of royal blue, henna, green, gold and silver are the leading style.”

McCall 1039 (1923 reissue) Kaumagraph Transfer Pattern – Egyptian Design for Dress Trimming. Image: YeHouseOfStuff on Etsy.

In summer 1923, Anne Rittenhouse wrote, “Ancient Rome as well as ancient India supplies inspiration for the figurations you should put on your clothes. The famous mosaic design found on marble tables and on floors in Italy has crept upward to our gowns. Straight bands of it are used in what is known as spinal decoration, also for skirt hems and sleeves. If you do not like to omit Egyptian embroidery, which appears to be the Twentieth Amendment to the Fashion Constitution, use the lotus flower rather than Tut’s guardians of the tomb…” (“Embroidery Everywhere,” McCall News, Aug. 1923)

“Embroidery On Spring Frocks Shows The Egyptian Influence,” *McCall’s* magazine, May 1923. Image: archive.org.

Egyptian transfer - Pittsburgh Press 13 May 1923 p150 — “Designs of Tut-Ankh-Amen”: Kaufmann’s ad featuring McCall 1039, *The Pittsburgh Press*, May 13, 1923. Image: Google books.

Contemporary fans of Egyptian embellishment can find a reproduction of the 1920s transfer on Etsy. Happy New Year!

With thanks to Susan Ward.

Image: Vintage Pattern Lending Library on Etsy.

Egyptian backdrop on the cover of *McCall Quarterly*, Summer 1923. Image: Etsy.

Howard Carter and A.C. Mace, *The Tomb of Tut-Ankh-Amen*. Image: Weiser Antiquarian Books.

Targaryen view of McCall’s 8335. Image: Issuu.

The Saturnalia begins today. Since ancient Rome was one of George R.R. Martin’s inspirations for Old Valyria, the Targaryen homeland, here’s a costume pattern inspired by House of the Dragon.

Costumes for HBO’s big-budget Game of Thrones spinoff were designed by French costume designer Jany Temime. An early collaborator of Alfonso Cuarón’s, Temime is best known for her work on the Harry Potter and James Bond films.

McCall’s dragon appliqué is a hint that its 2022 cape costume pattern is inspired by Rhaenyra Targaryen (ancestor of Daenerys).