Silk burnooses by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, October 1966. Photo: James Moore. Image: eBay.
This week, a look at the late James Galanos’ licensed Vogue patterns. (See my McCall’s post here.)
James Galanos Vogue pattern envelope flap. Image: eBay.
1960s
Maud Adams wears Vogue 1854 by James Galanos on the cover of the Vogue Patterns catalogue, January 1968. Image: eBay.
Vogue Patterns introduced James Galanos patterns in late 1967, with two dress designs modelled by Maud Adams and Lauren Hutton. The counter catalogue promotes Galanos’ “masterful touch” with an alternate shot of Vogue 1854, an A-line dress with side pleats at right front and left back:
Vogue 1854 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Maud Adams. Image: Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Lauren Hutton models Vogue 1855, a coat dress with double inverted pleats in the back:
Vogue 1855 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Lauren Hutton. Image: eBay.
This short, wrap-effect evening dress has square armholes and front pleats concealing pockets:
Vogue 2071 by James Galanos (1969) Image: Etsy.
1970s
Later Galanos patterns were photographed on location in New York, where the designer showed his collections. This dress goes one further than Vogue 1855 and has double inverted pleats in both front and back:
Vogue 2269 by James Galanos (1970) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
Jumpsuit Vogue 2524 features a shoulder yoke, pintucks, and wide, corded belt:
Vogue 2524 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
The latest Galanos pattern I’ve seen is Vogue 2639, a long-sleeved evening dress with front slit and waistline smocking detail:
Vogue 2639 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.
A dreamy illustration made the cover of the news leaflet:
Vogue 2639 by James Galanos on the cover of Vogue Pattern Fashion News, January 1972. Illustration: Ron Becker. Image: Etsy.
Feather-trimmed sheath in silk ottoman cloqué by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, November 1963. Photo: Melvin Sokolsky. Model: Donna Mitchell. Image: Paper Pursuits.
Metallic evening gown by James Galanos photographed at the Costume Institute, 1954. Image: Bettmann / Getty.
James Galanos died last month. He was 92. According to his obituary in the New York Times, Galanos authorized only two licenses: furs and fragrance. But he also licensed commercial sewing patterns—first with McCall’s, and later with Vogue Patterns. This post looks at Galanos’ 1950s patterns with McCall’s.
Jean Patchett in Galanos, Life magazine, February 23, 1959. Photo: Nina Leen. Image: LIFE archive.
Born in Philadelphia to Greek parents, James Galanos (1924-2016) was a graduate of the Traphagen School of Fashion. He worked with Hattie Carnegie, Hollywood costume designer Jean Louis, and Robert Piguet before founding his own, LA-based label in 1951. He retired in 1998, the year after LACMA mounted a retrospective of his work. Galanos won the devotion of celebrities and socialites with his virtuoso technique and flawless craftsmanship.
Image: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
1950s
McCall’s introduced designer exclusives by “James Galanos, brilliant young star of American fashion” with two patterns for winter 1956-57. The Galanos designs—full-skirted formal gowns in two lengths—were prominently featured in the holiday issues of McCall’s Pattern Book and the company’s monthly news leaflet.
McCall’s 3895 by Galanos on the cover of McCall’s Pattern Book, Winter 1956-57. Image: eBay.“Holiday news: Galanos designs for McCall’s.” McCall’s news leaflet, December 1956.
According to the news leaflet, McCall’s 3894 is “a fabulous ball gown to make in brocade.” The molded bodice is a trademark Galanos touch:
McCall’s 3894 by Galanos (1956) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.McCall’s 3894 by Galanos in McCall’s Pattern Book, Winter 1956-57. Image: eBay.
McCall’s 3895 is a bow-trimmed evening gown. As the leaflet notes, “Beautifully low-cut in back, it can be cocktail length.” Recommended fabrics included heavy satin, peau de soie, brocade, and taffeta:
McCall’s 3895 by Galanos (1956) Image: eBay.A Galanos design in the McCall’s catalogue, February 1957. Image: Etsy.
In spring, 1957, McCall’s released two more Galanos patterns: the lavishly full-skirted McCall’s 4045 and 4046.
McCall’s 4045 by Galanos (1957) Image: eBay.
Here, the back bodice extends into a front yoke. The skirt and petticoat were to be made in organdy, nylon, or silk organza:
McCalls 4046 by Galanos (1957) Image: eBay.
The new Galanos patterns were promoted in the March issue of McCall’s magazine (“Galanos designs: Black-and-white for summer evenings”) and in the company’s “Make the Clothes that Make the Woman” advertising campaign.
“Make the Clothes that Make the Woman” advertisement featuring McCall’s 4046 by Galanos, spring 1957.
In the Summer 1957 pattern book, the designs are illustrated in green linen and flower-embroidered organdy:
James Galanos patterns illustrated in McCall’s Pattern Book, Summer 1957.
Today, Galanos’ McCall’s patterns are quite scarce. Perhaps customers balked at the extravagant yardage: the skirt for one dress took over 20 yards of narrow fabric. Galanos’ work with sheer layers continued into the following decade, as seen in this 1961 editorial by Gordon Parks:
Gloria Vanderbilt in a chiffon evening dress by Galanos, Life magazine, April 14, 1961. Photo: Gordon Parks. Image: Shrimpton Couture.
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