Françoise Rubartelli in Vogue, January 1965. Photo: Franco Rubartelli. Image: Vogue Archive.
From Diana Vreeland’s Vogue, a mid-1960s Franco Rubartelli editorial featuring Françoise Rubartelli in two white jumpsuits made with Vogue patterns — or as Vogue puts it, “Two jumpsuit patterns with lean moon-shot lines, cut for action in pale moon-coloured jersey.”
I previously featured this Young Fashionables hooded jumpsuit in my Jill Kennington post, but American Vogue made it first, in Heller double-knit Celanese acetate:
Jumpsuit Vogue 6376 in Vogue, January 1965. (Jantzen sandals.) Model: Françoise Rubartelli. Photo: Franco Rubartelli. Image: Vogue Archive.
The Courrèges-inspired two-piece jumpsuit uses two patterns for a tunic and custom-fit pants, both made up in Wamsutta Orlon double-knit jersey.
Françoise Rubartelli in Vogue 6438 tunic and Vogue 6427 pants. (Doro scarf; Cobblers sandals.) Vogue, January 1965. Photo: Franco Rubartelli. Image: Vogue Archive.
Inaugural issue of Vogue Paris, June 15, 1920. Illustration: Helen Dryden. Image: Gallica / BnF.
Today is the 100th anniversary of Vogue Paris. To celebrate, here’s a decade-by-decade look at Paris and patterns from the 1920s to now. (Click the images for more.)
In the 1920s, designs by Chanel and other Paris couturiers were available from the McCall Pattern Company. (See my article in the new issue of Selvedge.)
McCall 4464 by Chanel (1926) Evening dress.
In the 1930s, the Authentic Paris Pattern company sold French designs exclusively, like this ensemble by Schiaparelli.
Paris Pattern 1647 by Schiaparelli (ca. 1931)
Vogue joined the party with its Paris Originals in 1949.
Vogue 1078 by Marie-Blanche de Polignac for Lanvin (1949) Image: eBay.
In the 1950s, the company released its first Dior patterns, by the young Yves Saint Laurent.
Vogue 1470 by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior (1959) Model: Isabella Albonico. Photos: Leombruno-Bodi.
The couture of André Courrèges caused a sensation in the 1960s. Courrèges didn’t license patterns, but that didn’t stop the American pattern companies from producing a wealth of knockoffs.
McCall’s 7923 after Courrèges (with Marcel Barbeau painting) in a Crompton Corduroy ad, 1965.
In the early 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent shook up the Paris couture with his ’40s-inspired Libération collection.
Vogue 2598 by Yves Saint Laurent (1971) Image courtesy of Paco Peralta.
In the late 1980s, when Christian Lacroix left Patou for the prêt-à-porter, his Vogue patterns were conspicuously photographed in Paris.
Vogue 2176 by Christian Lacroix (1988)
John Galliano’s mid-1990s tenure at Givenchy signalled a massive shift for the Paris couture. This ready-to-wear design was available from Vogue Patterns.
John Galliano for Givenchy advertising campaign, Summer 1997. Image: styleregistry.
Guy Laroche was the last, and longest running, label with Vogue Paris Originals. This suit from the aughts was designed by the late Hervé L. Leroux, formerly Hervé Léger.
Vogue 2937 by Hervé L. Leroux (Hervé Léger) for Guy Laroche (2006)
Today, Vogue Paris Originals are no more, and you’re more likely to see versions of styles shown on the Paris runway, like this coat adapted from Sarah Burton for McQueen.
Vogue 1649 after Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton (2019) Model: Tatyana Cooper. Image: McCall’s.
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