Red Carpet Fashion: Evening Pantsuits
February 23, 2016 § 6 Comments
Amy Poehler in Stella McCartney at the Golden Globes, January 2013. Image via bustle.com.
Will you be watching the Oscars on Sunday? In past years I’ve posted about goddess gowns and caftans. This year, a look at red carpet-worthy pantsuits.
Milena Canonero at the 87th Academy Awards, February 2015. Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty.
The Best Actress winners who have accepted their award in trousers can be counted on one hand: Barbra Streisand (1969, in Arnold Scaasi); Jane Fonda (1972, in Yves Saint Laurent); Sissy Spacek (1981); Jessica Tandy (1990, in Armani); and Jodie Foster (1992, also in Armani). But then, Katharine Hepburn never attended.
Jane Fonda in Yves Saint Laurent at the 44th Academy Awards, April 1972. Image via tumblr.
Celebrity style icons Gwyneth Paltrow, Angelina Jolie, and Kate Moss started appearing on the red carpet in pantsuits in the 1990s and early 2000s.
Gwyneth Paltrow in Gucci by Tom Ford at the MTV Video Music Awards, September 1996. Photo: Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic, Inc.
Angelina Jolie in Dolce & Gabbana at the 73rd Academy Awards, March 2001. Image via Glamour.
Kate Moss, in Burberry, with Mario Testino at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Benefit Gala, May 2006. Photo: Peter Kramer/Getty.
Recently, more and more female celebrities have been choosing tuxedos and jumpsuits for formal events.
Kirsten Dunst in Patrik Ervell, CFDA awards, June 2011. Image via elle.com.
Lupita Nyong’o in Veronica Beard at the Toronto International Film Festival, September 2013. Image via Fashion Bomb Daily.
Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt in Saint Laurent at the EE British Academy Film Awards, February 2014. Photo: Karwai Tang/WireImage.
Anna Kendrick in Band of Outsiders at the Grammy Awards, February 2015. Image via elle.com.
Here are some patterns—now available in the shop—that would be perfect for your next gala appearance.
The year Jane Fonda won an Oscar for her performance in Klute, Vogue Patterns released this Valentino design for an evening jumpsuit and jacket:
Vogue 2775 by Valentino (1972) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
Calvin Klein had the Annie Hall look nailed before Woody Allen’s movie started filming (in spring, 1976). Vogue 1369, a designer wardrobe pattern, highlights the three-piece pantsuit:
Vogue 1369 by Calvin Klein (1976) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
Fast forward to 1999, when Alexander McQueen presented a futuristic millennium collection for Givenchy (Fall 1999 prêt-à-porter; post here). The long, detailed jacket was designed for shimmery fabric:
Vogue 2478 by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy (2000) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
This tunic and pants ensemble is from Donna Karan’s Fall 2007 collection (as worn by Jessica Stam on the runway). The strapless tunic has outside darts, pockets, and foundation with padded bra and boning:
Vogue 1076 by Donna Karan (2008) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
For more red-carpet pantsuits, see Elle magazine’s slideshow here or this People article. Or see that handy viral infographic here.
Vintage Jumpsuit Patterns
July 25, 2014 § 10 Comments
Vogue 8331 (1972) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Versatile and contemporary, jumpsuits and their cousins, playsuits and rompers, have become increasingly popular in the last few years. Jumpsuits—or all-in-ones, if you’re British—seem poised to move beyond a trend this summer.
The modern women’s jumpsuit has origins in two different garments: beach pajamas and the boiler suit. These twin origins mean jumpsuit styles range from fluid loungewear to utility-inspired or tailored designs. (See Vogue Italia for a short history of the jumpsuit.) Here are some favourite all-in-one patterns from the 1930s to the 1990s.
1930s–1940s
Beach pajamas, often worn with a matching bolero, had become one-piece by the early 1930s. This McCall’s design combines flowing trousers with geometric seaming details in the bodice and hip yoke. A reproduction is available from the Model A Ford Club of America:
McCall 6432 (1931) Image via the Model A Ford Club of America.
(See my earlier beachwear post here; for more on beach pajamas, see the FIDM Museum blog and Amber Butchart’s essay for British Pathé.)
The boiler suits of wartime utility wear are said to have made bifurcated clothing more acceptable for women. This Vogue pattern from ca. 1940 includes both a hooded mechanic suit with cuffed trousers and a more casual, short-sleeved version shown in a dotted print:
Vogue 8852 (1940) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
This early 1940s pajama ensemble with T-back halter bodice was not just for the beach—the envelope says it’s for “beach, dinner or evening”:
McCall 4075 (1941) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
1950s
In the postwar period, more tailored jumpsuits emerged as a choice for casual sportswear. This early 1950s pedal-pusher coverall has cuffed sleeves and pants and a front zipper closure:
McCall’s 8520 (1951) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
From the late 1950s, this trim, one-piece slack suit from Vogue came in two lengths and with a matching overskirt:
Vogue 9898 (1959) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
1960s
The jumpsuit—sometimes called a culotte or pantdress—truly comes into its own in the later 1960s. Here Birgitta af Klercker models Vogue 2249, a loungewear design by Emilio Pucci (previously featured in my goddess gown post):
Vogue 2249 by Pucci (1969) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
In this late 1960s Butterick Young Designers pattern, Mary Quant combines a trim, zip-front jumpsuit with a low-waisted miniskirt for a sleek, futuristic look:
Butterick 5404 by Mary Quant (1969) Image via Etsy.
1970s
Both pajama and menswear-inspired styles continue into the 1970s. Famous for her palazzo pajamas, Galitzine designed this bi-coloured lounge pantdress with criss-cross halter bodice:
Vogue 2731 by Galitzine (1972) Image via the Blue Gardenia.
From Calvin Klein, Vogue 1453 marks a return to the boiler suit style. With cargo pockets, self belt, and wide, notched collar, the jumpsuit could be made long or short, with long or short sleeves:
Vogue 1453 by Calvin Klein (1976) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
1980s
This Bob Mackie disco jumpsuit or evening dress pattern for stretch knits dates to 1980. (See my earlier Bob Mackie post here.) The jumpsuit has a plunging neckline, waistline pleats, and tapered, bias pants designed to crush at the ankles:
McCall’s 7134 by Bob Mackie (1980)
An instance of the late 1980s jumpsuit trend, this shirtdress-style jumpsuit by Donna Karan has a notched collar, welt pockets, and cuffed or seven-eighths length kimono sleeves:
Vogue 2284 by Donna Karan (1989) Image via eBay.
1990s
Also by Donna Karan, Vogue 2609, ca. 1990, is a long-sleeved, tapered jumpsuit for stretch knits with neckline variations, front pleats, and stirrups. View C has a contrast bodice with self-lined hood:
Vogue 2609 by Donna Karan (1990) Image via the Blue Gardenia.
From 1996, Vogue 1821 by DKNY is almost vintage. It’s a novel suit consisting of a single-breasted jacket and wide-legged, halter jumpsuit:
Vogue 1821 by DKNY (1996) Image via eBay.
Finally, this pattern is not yet vintage, but a jumpsuit collection would be incomplete without Vogue 2343, Alexander McQueen’s tailored, tuxedo jumpsuit for Givenchy haute couture Spring/Summer 1998 (earlier post here):
Vogue 2343 by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy (1999) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
With their demanding fit, jumpsuits are ideal for home sewers. And they’re not just for the tall and leggy: many of the later jumpsuit patterns are marked as suitable for petites.
If you’d like to try your hand at an early all-in-one, Wearing History has a repro pattern for 1930s beach pajamas, and Simplicity 9978 includes a 1940s boiler suit.
Vintage Designer Menswear: Vogue Patterns
June 15, 2014 § 5 Comments
Vogue 2917 by Bill Blass (1973) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
It’s been some time since Vogue offered designer menswear patterns. In the 1970s and 1980s, home sewers could choose from licensed designs for everything from men’s shirts to outerwear and three-piece suits. In celebration of Father’s Day, here’s a selection of vintage menswear patterns from Vogue Patterns.
1970s
Vogue introduced designer menswear patterns in the early 1970s with designs by Bill Blass and Pierre Cardin. From Cardin, Vogue 2918 is a double-breasted coat in two lengths:
Vogue 2918 by Pierre Cardin (1973) Image via Etsy.
1975 saw the release of some his-and-hers Valentino patterns. Vogue 1180, a men’s jacket and pants pattern, was photographed with a women’s Valentino ensemble, Vogue 1178:
Vogue 1180 by Valentino (1975) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Polo by Ralph Lauren was introduced to Vogue customers in the summer of 1975. The safari-style Vogue 1237 and 1238 were photographed in India:
Vogue 1237 and 1238 by Polo Ralph Lauren in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1975. Photos: Steve Horn. Image via Make Mine Vogue.
Also by Polo Ralph Lauren, Vogue 1581 is a double-breasted trench coat with detachable lining:
Vogue 1581 by Polo by Ralph Lauren (c. 1977)
This Christian Dior shirt-jacket and pants is the only men’s Dior pattern I’ve seen:
Vogue 1609 by Christian Dior (ca. 1977) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
This snappy three-piece suit is by Bill Blass:
Vogue 1620 by Bill Blass (1977) Image via patronescostura on Etsy.
There were two menswear patterns by Yves Saint Laurent: safari suits photographed by Chris von Wangenheim (see Paco’s related post here):
Vogue 1645 and 1644 by Yves Saint Laurent in Vogue Patterns, March/April 1977. Photos: Chris von Wangenheim. Image via Paco Peralta.
Givenchy licensed a trim three-piece suit, Vogue 2112:
Vogue 2112 by Givenchy (1979) Image via PatternVault on Etsy.
In 1979 the company released a trio of menswear patterns by Calvin Klein—separate patterns for a shirt, jacket, and pants. Vogue 2256 is a pattern for slim, tapered men’s pants; view B is low-rise and flat-front:
Vogue 2256 by Calvin Klein (1979) Image via Etsy.
1980s
The menswear releases tapered off in the 1980s. 1980 saw the release of two Bill Blass men’s patterns, for a three-piece suit and close-fitting shirt:
Vogue 2586 by Bill Blass (1980) Image via Etsy.
In 1988 Vogue released three menswear patterns by Perry Ellis, for a jacket, shirt, and pants. Vogue 2207 is a loose-fitting jacket:
Vogue 2207 by Perry Ellis (1988) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Just for fun, I’ll close with this Pierre Cardin robe and pajamas, which included a logo appliqué:
Vogue 2798 by Pierre Cardin (c. 1972) Image via Etsy.
With menswear sales catching up with womenswear, perhaps Vogue Patterns will capitalize on this trend by restoring menswear to its designer licensing. I’d be first in line for a Saint Laurent pattern…
Happy Father’s Day!
Patterns in Vogue: Clean Cuts
March 17, 2014 § 3 Comments
Guinevere Van Seenus in Vogue, November 1997. Photo: Mario Testino.
This week, the second post in my occasional series on Vogue’s pattern editorials. (See the first post here.)
“Clean Cuts,” from the November 1997 issue, seems to have been Vogue’s last editorial to feature sewing patterns. Mario Testino photographed Guinevere Van Seenus and Amber Valetta in ’90s minimalist style in the season’s body-conscious basics—“the edgier side of Vogue Patterns,” as the headline says.
Here Guinevere Van Seenus models a white tank top made using Vogue 8062; on the right, her hooded red dress is Butterick 5088, lengthened, made sleeveless, and with an altered neckline:
Vogue, November 1997. Photos: Mario Testino. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
The hoodie pattern, Butterick 5088, reappears on Amber Valetta, this time as a zip-up top in black Lurex. Her white silk shirt is Vogue 9501, while the red leather pants are Vogue 1982 by DKNY:
Vogue, November 1997. Photos: Mario Testino. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
Here Van Seenus models the Vogue 9501 shirt in silk jersey with the Vogue 1982 DKNY pants in black, while Valetta wears the Vogue 8062 tank with a red leather skirt, Vogue 7074:
Vogue, November 1997. Photos: Mario Testino. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
Butterick 5088 appears once again as a jacket in sequinned jersey with a silver lining (the tank is Butterick 8062); Valetta’s black leather tank dress is Vogue 1725 by Calvin Klein:
Vogue, November 1997. Photos: Mario Testino. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
As always, in the back of the magazine readers could find the details of the patterns used in the shoot:
In This Issue, Vogue, November 1997.
It’s curious that the text doesn’t mention the designers behind Vogue 1982 and 1725; Donna Karan and Calvin Klein would have been major advertisers. Most interestingly, in showing patterns’ potential through fabric choice and alterations, the editorial reveals Vogue editors thinking like dressmakers.
Year of the Horse: Vintage Equestrian Patterns
January 31, 2014 § 7 Comments
Busvine sidesaddle ensemble in Vogue, 1927. Illustration: Guillermo Bolin. Image: Man and the Horse.
Happy Chinese new year! In honour of the Year of the Horse, here’s a selection of equestrian sewing patterns from the 1920s to the 1990s.
Like tennis wear, modern equestrian wear begins in the 1920s. Before the First World War, women generally rode sidesaddle; equestriennes wore fashionably voluminous riding skirts designed to fall flatteringly on horseback, with breeches underneath. In addition to 19th-century Harper’s Bazaar patterns for riding habits, the Commercial Pattern Archive’s “Riding” category reveals a 1909 pattern for ladies’ riding breeches (Butterick 3313), and two divided equestrian skirts from the early teens (Butterick 5792 and Pictorial Review 5003).
By 1920 the major American pattern companies were producing commercial patterns for women’s jodhpurs—often called riding breeches. As the illustration at the top of this post shows, some women continued to ride sidesaddle, even into the 1930s, but I haven’t found any modern patterns for sidesaddle riding habits.
Illustration from a Saks Fifth Avenue advertisement, spring 1925.
1920s
Butterick 2255, circa 1920, is a pattern for a riding coat and breeches worthy of Lady Mary. The envelope specifies that the design is for cross saddle riding:
Butterick 2255 (1920) Image via the Commercial Pattern Archive, Kevin L. Seligman collection. For research purposes only.
This 1920 McCall pattern for riding breeches shows the pattern diagram and instructions on the envelope (click to enlarge):
McCall 9536 (1920) Ladies’ riding breeches. Image via eBay.
I have this 1923 jodhpurs pattern in my collection—for when I learn to ride, of course:
McCall 3214 (1923) Ladies’ riding breeches.
This McCall’s illustration of a riding coat and breeches is from the same year, but it shows a different breeches pattern, as well as a more streamlined riding coat than a few years previous:
McCall Quarterly, Fall 1923. Image via eBay.
For more on 1920s equestrian wear see Unsung Sewing Patterns‘ posts on Butterick 4147, a pair of riding knickers, and Pictorial Review 1435 and 1438, a riding jacket and breeches.
1930s
Jodhpurs were not just for equestrian sports: they were the “trousers of adventure,” worn for activities like driving, hiking and camping, safaris, and aviation. This early ’30s illustration from Pictorial Review shows the latest sports styles, including beach pajamas and clothes for tennis and golf. The riding habit includes a sleeveless jacket or waistcoat (click to enlarge):
Sports fashions in Pictorial Review Fashion Book, Summer 1931. Image via eBay.
Butterick 5647 is a pattern for cuffed, fall-front jodhpurs with notched back waist and side and back pockets. Nabby at This Old Life made these for her vintage aviatrix costume (click image for post):
Butterick 5647 (c. 1934) Image via This Old Life.
McCall 9412, from September 1937, looks to be a rare early pattern for western-style riding pants, with reinforced seat and inner leg. I’d love to see a better-quality image; this one was found in a lot on eBay:
McCall 9412 (1937) Image via eBay.
Also from the late 1930s, Pictorial Review 9337 is a pattern for a tailored shirt and sleek pair of riding trousers:
Pictorial Review 9337 (c. 1938) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
1970s
Apart from children’s equestrian patterns, I couldn’t find any patterns from the major pattern companies that were specifically for riding until the 1970s, when western-style riding wear was in fashion. McCall’s 4870 includes riding pants and a shirt-jacket with contrast, embroidered yoke and cuffs. The model is Angeleen Gagliano, who was a horsewoman in real life:
McCall’s 4870 (1975) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
This Butterick pattern by Jane Tise shows the vogue for western shirts:
Butterick 5629 by Jane Tise (1970s) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Vogue even had a his-and-hers western shirt pattern, Vogue 8973/8976 (the ’70s-averse are advised not to click the links).
The influence of the western shirt is evident in this Halston dress with scalloped yoke:
McCall 6841 by Halston (1979) Image via Betsy Vintage.
1980s
Many of you will remember the 1980s jodhpurs trend, when you could dress for English-style riding far from any stable. Exhibit A is New Look 6013:
New Look 6013 (1980s) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
There were also faux jodhpurs—pleated, tapered pants like those in Burda 5332 or McCall’s 2077.
Gianni Versace and Claude Montana both showed jodhpurs in the ’80s, but unfortunately Vogue Patterns doesn’t seem to have released any patterns for them. Just for fun, here’s a Lord Snowdon photo of aristocrat Angela Rawlinson in a jacket and tweed jodhpurs by John McIntyre:
John McIntyre jacket and jodhpurs, Vogue, July 1985. Photo: Lord Snowdon. Model: Angela Rawlinson.
1990s
Little Vogue 7876, with its young model leaning on a stone balustrade, is interesting for showing the social ambition associated with horseback riding. The jodhpurs are a little loose for actual riding (the similarly styled Vogue 7842 also has a looser fit):
Little Vogue 7876 (1990) Image via Etsy.
With the advent of stretch fabrics, riding pants no longer needed lots of room in the upper leg. These jodhpurs by Calvin Klein have a sleeker fit that’s more in line with late 20th-century equestrian wear. They come with detachable stirrups, and may be made in synthetic suede:
Vogue 2513 by Calvin Klein (1990) Image via Etsy.
McCall’s 6737’s riding pants are for stretch fabrics, reinforced with leather or ultrasuede in the seat and inner leg. The pattern also marks a return to the waistcoat:
McCall’s 6737 by NY/NY (1993) Image via Etsy.
Vogue 1655 by DKNY brings us full circle: the riding-style jacket was photographed in traditional scarlet at a country estate:
Vogue 1655 by DKNY (1995) Image via Etsy.
For more on the history of women’s equestrian wear see Mackay-Smith, Druesedow, and Ryder’s Man and the Horse: An Illustrated History of Equestrian Apparel (Simon and Schuster, 1984), which was published to accompany the Polo/Ralph Lauren-sponsored Costume Institute exhibit held from December, 1984 to September, 1985.
If you’d like to sew your own sidesaddle riding habit, reproductions of early French magazine patterns for costumes d’amazone (women’s riding habits) are available from eBay shop Au fil du temps. For a modern equestrian look, Folkwear’s Equestriennes pattern, Folkwear 506, includes a riding jacket, waistcoat, and jodhpurs based on garments in the collection of the Costume Institute.
Special thanks to Naomi for acting as my in-house equestrianism consultant.
Angeleen
October 26, 2012 § 8 Comments
Angeleen on the cover of British Vogue, February 1974. Photo: Norman Parkinson. Image via Alice Mary Barnes.
Southern beauty queen and model Angeleen (1950-2009) is a familiar face to vintage pattern aficionados. Born Angelina Marie Gagliano, she was also a keen equestrian—she is the model in Chris von Wangenheim’s circa 1975 series Untitled (Woman with horse). (It’s her horse. See prints at Christie’s and Staley-Wise Gallery.) Her son, Jason Storch, has posted a short bio here.
Angeleen did a lot of work for Simplicity, McCall’s, and especially Vogue Patterns in the mid-1970s. Here she is on the cover of a Very Easy Vogue catalogue:
Very Easy Vogue Patterns catalogue, March 1976. Image via eBay.
Angeleen can be seen on some of the earliest Vogue patterns from Sonia Rykiel, Chloé, and Calvin Klein:
Vogue 1379 by Sonia Rykiel (1976) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Vogue 1424 by Chloé (1976)
Vogue 1369 by Calvin Klein (1976) Image via Etsy.
Here she models Halston’s spiral-cut dress for McCall’s (see Dustin’s recent post on this pattern here):
McCall’s 5103 by Halston (1976) Image via Make Mine Vogue.
My personal favourite patterns featuring Angeleen are the ones for ’70s evening wear, like these designs from Balmain and Lanvin:
Vogue 1218 by Pierre Balmain (1975) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Vogue 1147 by Lanvin (1975) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
See youthquaker’s blog and facebook for more photos of Angeleen from British Vogue. Thanks to Jason Storch for his assistance.
Gia Carangi
July 9, 2012 § 7 Comments
Gia Carangi in Vogue 2060 and 7248, Vogue, November 1978. Photo: Andrea Blanch. Image: giacarangi.org.
One of the fun aspects of vintage patterns is that they sometimes show famous models, familiar to us from the pages of major fashion publications and the work of top photographers. This is the first in an occasional series on prominent models and commercial sewing patterns.
Gia Carangi (1960-1986) is sometimes called the first supermodel. (Cindy Crawford was nicknamed ‘Baby Gia’ when she first moved to New York.) There’s even a blog devoted to her editorials. Starting in 1978, the year of her first major fashion shoot—the Chris von Wangenheim chain link fence shoot dramatized in the HBO movie Gia—Carangi also did some work for Vogue Patterns.
The November/December 1978 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine has a few pages featuring Gia Carangi, including an Arthur Elgort portfolio showing Vogue 2008 by Bill Blass. In most cases, Carangi was photographed for editorials only, but she can be seen on a few Vogue patterns:
Vogue 2023 by Christian Dior (1978) Image: eBay.
Vogue 2014 by Givenchy (1978) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Vogue 2010 by Stan Herman (1978) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.
Carangi also shot some Vogue Patterns editorials with Andrea Blanch which appeared in Vogue magazine in 1978 and 1979. Here are some of her editorial images promoting designer patterns—two Calvin Klein patterns, Vogue 1878 and Vogue 2027, and Vogue 1988 by Yves Saint Laurent. The Vogue 2027 coat was shortened for the photo shoot:
Gia Carangi in Vogue 2027 (Calvin Klein) and 1988 (YSL), Vogue, October 1978. Photo: Andrea Blanch. Image: giacarangi.org.
Gia Carangi in Vogue 1878 (Calvin Klein) and 1988 (YSL), Vogue, October 1978. Photo: Andrea Blanch. Image: giacarangi.org.
Gia Carangi in Vogue 1988 (YSL) and 2027 (Calvin Klein), Vogue, October 1978. Photo: Andrea Blanch. Image: giacarangi.org.
This May 1979 editorial image shows Vogue 2040, a tunic by Edith Head, made up in sheer black silk marquisette:
Gia Carangi in Vogue 2040 by Edith Head, Vogue, May 1979. Photo: Andrea Blanch. Image: giacarangi.org.
The famous “Dead” photo was also part of a Vogue Patterns editorial (in the same issue as the Dalmatian photo shown above; the latter shows Vogue 2060, a top by Yves Saint Laurent). The patterns are two Calvin Klein designs: Vogue 1990, a wrap dress, and the pants from Vogue 2027:
Gia Carangi in Vogue 1990 and 2027 by Calvin Klein, Vogue, November 1978. Photo: Andrea Blanch. Image: giacarangi.org.
Click the images to see more Gia Carangi/Vogue Patterns editorial photos.
