Summer 2020 Designer Pattern Highlights

Sasha Belyaeva photographed by William Eadon in Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019
Detail, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Have you seen the new summer patterns?

For Summer, 2020, Rachel Comey covers the Vogue Patterns lookbook for the second season in a row.

Rachel Comey top and pants (V1704) on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020
V1704 by Rachel Comey. Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2020. Image: Issuu.

Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.

Guinevere van Seenus photographed by Annie Powers in Rachel Comey Spring 2019
Guinevere van Seenus in Rachel Comey Spring 2019. Photo: Annie Powers. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020)
Vogue 1704 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.

Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018 photographed by Gus Powell
Rachel Comey Pre-Fall 2018. Photo: Gus Powell. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey
Vogue 1710 by Rachel Comey (2020) Image: McCall’s.

The new Guy Laroche is from Fall 2018, the same collection as Winter’s V1666 pantsuit. The runway version better shows the seaming detail:

Guy Laroche by Richard René, Fall 2018 collection. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1709 by Guy Laroche (2020)
Vogue 1709 by Richard René for Guy Laroche (2020) Image: McCall’s.

From Badgley Mischka, a pattern for the Belcanto dress. The duo’s Spring 2018 collection was inspired by Capri.

Badgley Mischka Spring 2018
Badgley Mischka Spring 2018. Image: Vogue Runway.
Badgley Mischka lace-up broderie anglaise gown
Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.

Triple-tiered tassels not included.

Tassel detail, Badgley Mischka Belcanto lace-up broderie anglaise gown. Image: The Outnet.
Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020)
Vogue 1693 by Badgley Mischka (2020) Belcanto dress. Image: McCall’s.

In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.

The Row Abel blouse
The Row Abel blouse in white cotton. Image: Farfetch.

A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.

Saskia de Brauw in the opening look for The Row Spring 2019. Image: Vogue Runway.
Vogue 1701 after The Row's Abel blouse
Vogue 1701 after The Row (2020) Image: McCall’s.

For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Image: Vogue Runway.
Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020 blue moiré faille jumpsuit
Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit in blue moiré faille. Images: Moda Operandi.
Vogue 1708 jumpsuit or romper pattern after Oscar de la Renta (2020)
Vogue 1708 after Oscar de la Renta (2020) Image: McCall’s.

It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)

A black jumpsuit in Cynthia Rowley's Spring 2020 collection
The Devin jumpsuit, Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020. Image: Vogue Runway.
Black D-ring Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit pattern S9151
Simplicity 9151 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Devin jumpsuit and romper. Image: Simplicity.

Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Cynthia Rowley dress in silk-viscose. Image: Cynthia Rowley.
Simplicity 9098 by Cynthia Rowley (2020) Tinley dress.

For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.
Marquette sequin applique dress, Cynthia Rowley Resort 2019. Model: Sasha Belyaeva. Photo: William Eadon. Editor: Kit Keenan. Image: Vogue Runway.

Selvedge 95 / #McCalls150

Joy Ossai photographed by Reze Bonna in Marianne Fassler Spring/Summer 2018-19 on the cover of Selvedge Issue 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020)
Joy Ossai in Marianne Fassler, Selvedge Issue 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020) Photo: Reze Bonna. Image: Selvedge.

I’m pleased to announce that I’m among the contributors to the upcoming Heritage issue of Selvedge Magazine. My piece is called “Maison McCall,” and it’s about McCall’s interwar couturier patterns.

Sarah Sheehan, "Maison McCall" with McCall 8524 dinner dress in Selvedge magazine 95 (July/August 2020)
“Maison McCall” in Selvedge 95 – Heritage (July/August 2020)

Did you know McCall’s shares its founding year with the Metropolitan Museum of Art? Both are celebrating their 150th anniversaries in 2020.

McCall Building, ca. 1905. Image: Museum of the City of New York.
Selvedge has both print and digital editions. Due to the coronavirus, this issue won’t be on newsstands, but it is available for pre-order. (Preview the Heritage issue here.) Selvedge 95 is out June 15th from selvedge.org.

Hope you enjoy the article!