John Galliano Patterns: Roundup

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2015 couture by John Galliano
The closing look from John Galliano’s Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2015 couture collection. Image: Vogue Runway.

Today John Galliano presented his first collection as creative director at Maison Martin Margiela: the Spring/Summer 2015 couture. It was the first time Margiela showed in London; the collection will also be viewable by appointment during Paris couture week. (See Suzy Menkes, “Galliano for Maison Martin Margiela” and Melanie Rickie, “John Galliano: penitent return of an enfant terrible.”)

A toile shown in the postscript to Galliano's Spring 2015 Margiela couture collection
A toile shown in the postscript to Galliano’s Margiela couture collection, Spring 2015. Image: Business of Fashion / Twitter.

The show comes four years after Galliano’s last runway presentation. It’s been nineteen years since his first couture collection, for the house of Givenchy in January, 1996.

vogue paris mars 1996
Shalom Harlow in Givenchy Haute Couture by John Galliano, Vogue Paris, March 1996. Photo: Mario Testino. Image: Vogue Paris.

To celebrate the designer’s return, here’s a roundup of my posts on sewing patterns by John Galliano, both for Givenchy and his own label:

1990s Vogue Patterns by John Galliano for Givenchy: 1887, 1889, 1978, 2061

Galliano FW2001 look35 Galliano SHOWstudio FW2001

For a retrospective look at Galliano’s career, see this Vanity Fair slideshow or British Vogue’s editorial gallery.

Free Designer Pattern: J.W.Anderson Top and Skirt

Alexandra O'Connor in J.W.Anderson, photographed by Jon Emmony - SHOWstudio's 2013 Design Download
JW Anderson Fall 2013. Model: Alexandra O’Connor. Photo: Jon Emmony. Image: SHOWstudio via Twitter.

SHOWstudio’s latest Design Download is a free pattern for a top and balloon skirt by JW Anderson. Anderson, who is creative director at Loewe as well as for his own label, was just named the BFA’s New Establishment Designer for 2013. (For more on Anderson see Susannah Frankel’s recent profile for W magazine, “The New Guard: J.W. Anderson.”)

As with last year’s Design Download, there’s an interactive component and also a contest. Those making up the ensemble are invited to submit photos for inclusion in a gallery on the SHOWstudio website, and J.W. Anderson and Nick Knight will choose one version to star in a special fashion film.

The asymmetrical top and skirt are from the current, Fall/Winter 2013 collection, which drew acclaim for its sculptural, experimental pieces in subdued neutrals enlivened by the odd splash of colour and comic-book prints. (See Suzy Menkes, “Maximalist Versus Minimalist“; full collection on vogue.com.) Here is SHOWstudio’s slate leather version on the runway:

Marine Deleeuw in J.W.Anderson FW 2013 leather top and skirt
J.W.Anderson FW 2013. Model: Marine Deleeuw. Image: vogue.com.

The ensemble was also shown in midnight blue and white:

Daiane Conterato and Vik Kukandina in JW Anderson FW2013
J.W.Anderson FW 2013. Models: Daiane Conterato and Vik Kukandina. Images: vogue.com.

The look also made the fall advertising campaign—twice:

J.W.Anderson Fall 2013 advertising campaign
J.W.Anderson Fall 2013 advertising campaign. Model: Lucan Gillespie. Image: J.W.Anderson.

The pattern download comes in a choice of A4 or A1 sheets with a test line for checking the scale.

J.W.Anderson FW 2013 pattern pieces
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the top and skirt pattern (9 pieces: 4 for top, 5 for skirt)

Size: UK size 6

Recommended fabrics: leather, thick duffle wool, and other fray-resistant fabrics

Tools and notions: 20cm (8″) invisible zipper, hook and eye, seam binding or bondaweb. A rotary cutter is recommended for cutting the unfinished edges.

The deadline for contest submissions is Friday, March 31st, 2014 at midnight GMT. (See the SHOWstudio site for submission details.) Or if you’d rather snag the original, the midnight blue version of the top is on sale at net-a-porter.

Free Designer Pattern: Antony Price Evening Dress

1980s orange taffeta 'Macaw' dress by Antony Price
Antony Price’s Macaw dress. Image: SHOWstudio.

Just in time for the recent Eighties revival, SHOWstudio’s 2009 instalment in its Design Download series was an evening dress by Antony Price. Short, boned, and ruched, with asymmetrical ‘feathers’ in two shades of taffeta, the Macaw dress exemplifies the glamour and dazzling construction of Price’s evening wear. The free pattern was part of the SHOWstudio project, Antony Price: For Your Pleasure. (For more on the designer see Chrissy Iley, “Return of the Dandy,” and the Antony Price press archive.)

The designer is best known for his work for performers like the Rolling Stones, David Bowie, Duran Duran, and especially Roxy Music. This sketch shows Price’s costume design for the cover of “Siren,” Roxy Music’s 1975 album:

Antony Price sketch for Jerry Hall's "Siren" costume
Antony Price sketch for Jerry Hall’s “Siren” costume, 1975. Image: SHOWstudio.

An earlier ornithologically-inspired Antony Price dress, “Bird’s Wing,” is part of the collection of the V&A, and was included in their exhibition, The Cutting Edge: Fifty Years of British Fashion, 1947–1997.

Bird's Wing, evening dress in white silk taffeta by Antony Price
Bird’s Wing, evening dress in silk taffeta by Antony Price, FW 1986. Image: V&A.

And Tilda Swinton recently wore Antony Price on the cover of Candy magazine (click the image for back view):

Xevi Muntané photo of Tilda Swinton in a gold evening gown by Antony Price, Candy magazine, Summer 2012
Tilda Swinton in Antony Price, Candy magazine, Summer 2012. Photo: Xevi Muntané. Image: Luis Venegas.

Antony Price’s Spring/Summer 1989 collection was shown at the Fashion Theatre, Kensington Olympia, to a soundtrack that included Phillip Glass, Duran Duran, and Peter and the Wolf. The Macaw dress opened a bird-themed segment of the show: after the Macaw there was the ‘Pheasant,’ the ‘Chicken,’ and finally the stunning ‘Bird of Paradise.’

Runway photos from the Spring 1989 collection may be seen in Maria Lexton’s 1991 profile of the designer. The final image (bottom right) shows the ‘Bird of Paradise’ dress:

Runway photos from Antony Price's Spring 1989 collection
Antony Price Spring 1989. Image: Antony Price.
Runway photos from Antony Price's Spring 1989 collection
Antony Price Spring 1989. Image: Antony Price.
Runway photos from Antony Price's Spring 1989 collection
Antony Price Spring 1989. Image: Antony Price.

You can watch a video of the collection here (dress at 22:00). SHOWstudio has more ’80s Antony Price runway videos here; more on Antony Price’s YouTube channel.

Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the Macaw dress pattern

Fabric requirements: taffeta (with additional shade for contrast); lining; Stayflex fusible cotton interfacing

Notions: plastic boning, zipper

Notes/caveats: The pattern has 20 pieces, in 15 PDFs. Because the sheet dimensions are irregular, copy shop printing is recommended.

‘Feathers’ and main ruched piece are cut on the bias. The designer recommends binding boning into ‘quills’ for best results.

See the SHOWstudio submissions gallery here.

Free Designer Pattern: Stephen Jones Hat

Erin O'Connor in a Stephen Jones hat photographed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio
Erin O’Connor in a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

Royal Ascot begins tomorrow. What better way to celebrate than with a free designer millinery pattern, for a Stephen Jones hat called “Nice Package”?

The hat pattern Stephen Jones recently shared with SHOWstudio was released in early 2012, on the last day of the Paris couture calendar. An exaggerated beret inspired by his lilac hatboxes, the original hat is lilac moiré with a sparkle-embellished, pink satin bow. Here’s a colour photo:

Stephen Jones hat photographed by Peter Ashworth
Photo: Peter Ashworth. Image: Stephen Jones.

The design was drawn from Stephen Jones’ Fall/Winter 2011 collection, Topsy Turvy, which also included a stiletto take on Schiaparelli’s shoe hat. Here is a collection image from the milliner’s website:

Stephen Jones AW2011
Stephen Jones Fall/Winter 2011. Image: Stephen Jones.

SHOWstudio’s image gallery gives “aesthetic hints” on the assembly (click for more):

Erin O'Connor in a Stephen Jones hat photographed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio
Erin O’Connor in a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.
Erin O'Connor in a Stephen Jones hat photographed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio
Erin O’Connor in a Stephen Jones hat. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.
Stephen Jones hat pattern at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the hat pattern

Recommended fabrics: For hat: crisp fabrics with body and a slight stiffness such as faille, taffeta, gazar, or firm velvet. For lining: softer fabrics.

Notions: 0.4 m ( about 16″) of 5 cm (2″) satin ribbon; #5 (2.5cm) petersham ribbon; elastic (optional).

Trimming: 0.65 m (about 26″) of 5 cm (2″) ribbon; small sequins, sugar beads, and diamantés for bow embellishment.

U.K. milliner Sharon Bainbridge has made a version of the SHOWstudio hat; read her process post here.

Free Designer Pattern: John Galliano Jacket

Louise Pedersen models the John Galliano 'Pirate' jacket, photographed by Craig McDean
Louise Pederson in John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket. Photo: Craig McDean. Image: SHOWstudio.

This week’s second punk-inspired pattern puts the ‘couture’ in Chaos to Couture. (The first punk-inspired pattern was by Junya Watanabe—see my post here.) John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket is the most challenging of SHOWstudio’s Design Downloads, with 63 pattern pieces, all hand-labelled in French. But not to worry: 11 are guide pieces, and most of the French is translated.

Here are side and back views of the jacket:

Louise Pedersen models the John Galliano 'Pirate' jacket - side view
Side view of John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket. Photo: Craig McDean. Model: Louise Pederson. Image: SHOWstudio.
Louise Pedersen models the John Galliano 'Pirate' jacket - back view
Back view of John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket. Photo: Craig McDean. Image: SHOWstudio.

The ‘Pirate’ jacket is from John Galliano’s Fall/Winter 2001 collection, entitled Techno Romance. Here it is on the runway:

Angela Lindvall models the John Galliano Techno Romance / SHOWstudio jacket, 2001
Angela Lindvall in Galliano Fall 2001. Image: Vogue Runway.

The collection mixed glossy synthetics (techno) with delicate sheers and florals (romance): jaunty double-breasted jackets and long coats worn with sailor trousers, and long skirts and dresses, many with the same romantically skewed, off-the-shoulder, one-sleeved bodices as the SHOWstudio jacket. (See Suzy Menkes, “Techno Romance.”) In her short essay to accompany the Design Download, Jane Audas conjures an imaginary history for the SHOWstudio version of the jacket—a story of rebellion in which it was fashioned from the Union Jack, “the flag torn off a captured ship and hijacked as clothing, held together with sail rivets and ties.”

Here are the collection images from L’Officiel 1000 modèles (click to enlarge):

John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear - Techno-Romance
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear - Techno Romance
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.

Fashion Channel has posted runway video of the collection on YouTube in three parts (jacket at 3:50 of part 2):

John Galliano Techno Romance pattern at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the ‘Pirate’ jacket pattern

Fabrics requirements: approx. 3 yards of 60″ fabric and 3 yards of lining; interfacing.

Notions: grosgrain ribbon, D-rings, large metal stud, press studs, 2 buckles, eyelets, snaps, cord, elastic, 53 cm (21″) separating zipper.

See the SHOWstudio submissions gallery here. Carolyn E. Moore made the jacket twice. Weatherpixie has posted process photos of her red, white, and blue version on Flickr.

Free Designer Pattern: Junya Watanabe Dress

Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, photographed by Nick Knight
Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, 2005. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

To celebrate this week’s opening of PUNK: Chaos to Couture at the Costume Institute in New York, I’ll be posting about two free patterns for punk-inspired designs. (Kristen McMenamy called last night’s Met gala “a costume party for punk”; see Vogue’s red carpet coverage here.) First up is an example of Junya Watanabe’s “heavy-duty couture”: the dress pattern he shared with SHOWstudio.

Gemma Ward photographed by Nick Knight in Junya Watanabe
Back view, Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, 2005. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

The Watanabe Design Download was part of SHOWstudio’s Dress Me Up, Dress Me Down project, which saw model Liberty Ross being dressed for a live photo shoot by an online audience. The project—whose name refers to the English title of Pedro Almodóvar’s Átame, Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down! (1990)—was inspired by pornographic video chats and had the goal of “exploring the idea of control in fashion image-making.” As well as images and video, the project also had a discussion component, with interviews and short essays on fashion and pornography, including an Andrea Dworkin excerpt. In its appropriation of pornographic conventions, the SHOWstudio project can be linked to punk fashion and art like that of Throbbing Gristle’s Cosey Fanni Tutti (recently seen in Pop Life: Art in a Material World).

The Watanabe design was chosen by Liberty Ross from stylist Jonathan Kaye’s draft selection for the June 2005 SHOWstudio event. The dress is from Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2005 women’s collection—the coming season at the time of the project. The original dress was made in red mohair plaid with a PVC bodice:

Junya Watanabe dress in red PVC and mohair plaid
Junya Watanabe Fall 2005. Model: Cristina Carey. Image: vogue.com.

Watanabe also showed a black version of the dress:

Junya Watanabe dress in black wool and PVC, Fall 2005 women's collection
Junya Watanabe Fall 2005. Model: Ira. Image: vogue.com.

These dresses’ play with textural contrasts carried through the Fall/Winter 2005 Junya Watanabe women’s collection, which paired cotton and textured woolens with synthetics like nylon and PVC. The models wore full-skirted dresses, the skirts sometimes bunched up with ripcords, white shirts with exaggerated collars and ruffles, and coats and jackets made with tweed fused with synthetics. Watanabe referred to the clothes as “hard-core couture.” (See Cathy Horyn, “In Paris, Tweed Tangles With Tulle.”) Here’s the collection image from L’Officiel 1000 modèles:

Junya Watanabe FW 2005 women's RTW - L'Officiel 1000 modèles
Junya Watanabe Fall 2005 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.com.
Junya Watanabe dress pattern at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the dress pattern

Fabric requirements: for skirt, approx. 2 yards of 50″ fabric*

Notions: #10 Vislon zipper, 3mm and 5mm sealing tape

* source: Craftster sewalong post

Free Designer Pattern: Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket

SHOWstudio Alexander McQueen kimono jacket photographed by Nick Knight
Alexander McQueen Scanners kimono jacket. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.

Alexander McQueen would have been 44 today. On the occasion of his birthday, here’s a look back at the free pattern McQueen shared with SHOWstudio: the Scanners kimono jacket.

The original kimono jacket was made of black silk, and was shown on the runway with a matching pencil skirt and long gloves (worn by a pre-Outlander Caitriona Balfe):

Caitriona Balfe models the Alexander McQueen kimono jacket available from SHOWstudio
Caitriona Balfe in Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2003 runway show. Image: firstVIEW.

The kimono jacket is drawn from Scanners, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2003 collection. (The invitation to the show was printed with brain scans—CAT scans of the designer’s brain.) This was the year McQueen received his CBE from Queen Elizabeth II, as well as the CFDA’s International Award and his fourth British Fashion Designer of the Year. The models walked across a snowy tundra and along a raised wind tunnel; the design references represented a journey eastward through Siberia, Tibet, and Japan, mixed with geometric prints and McQueen’s signature tailoring. (See Suzy Menkes, “The Collections / Paris: A stellar McQueen; elegance at Viktor & Rolf.”)

Here are the collection images from L’Officiel 1000 modèles (click to enlarge):

LOfficielno33_2003_ScannersA
Alexander McQueen Fall 2003 collection (Scanners). Image: jalougallery.
LOfficielno33_2003_ScannersB
Alexander McQueen Fall 2003 collection (Scanners). Image: jalougallery.

Watch the runway video (kimono jacket at about 6:10):

Kimono-inspired designs are a thread running through McQueen’s work. Here are a few more kimono looks by Alexander McQueen, from Eclect Dissect—Givenchy couture, Fall 1997 (as on the McQueen / Nick Knight album cover for Björk’s Homogenic); La Dame Bleue, in memory of Isabella Blow; and the posthumous Fall 2010 collection:

McQueen kimonos: Eclect Dissect Givenchy Couture FW 1997, La dame bleue McQueen SS 2008, McQueen FW 2010
Kimono-inspired looks from Eclect Dissect, Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 1997; La Dame Bleue, Alexander McQueen Spring 2008, and Alexander McQueen Fall 2010. Images: L’Officiel 1000 modèles and style.com.
Alexander McQueen kimono jacket pieces at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the kimono jacket pattern

Size: US size 6 / UK size 8 approx. (bust 32″ – waist 24″) *

Fabric requirements: approx. 1.75 metres (about 2 yards) of 60″ fabric / over 3 metres (about 3.25 yards) of 39″ fabric *

See the SHOWstudio submissions gallery here. Toronto’s Mel of inside out inside has made an adapted version in Lida Baday fabric. Blithe of blithe stitches has a post on her metallic Hablon version and also a detailed tutorial.

Update: Useful for comparison: the photos of this gold brocade version of the McQueen kimono jacket on 1stdibs:

Back view, Alexander McQueen gold brocade silk blend kimono jacket, 2003
Alexander McQueen silk blend kimono jacket, 2003. Image: 1stdibs.

* Sizes and yardages are approximate and are drawn from Mel and Blithe’s notes on their versions of the kimono jacket.