Happy Birthday, Pucci! 75th Anniversary & Pucci Patterns in DRESS

Simone D’Aillencourt in a Pucci shirt in three colors of cotton satin, British Vogue, April 1956. Photo: Norman Parkinson. Image: Iconic Images / Condé Nast / DRESS.

Did you know the house of Pucci is celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2022?

Today is also Emilio Pucci’s birthday, so to celebrate, I’m sharing some publication news:

I’m pleased to announce that I’m among the contributors to the Spring 2022 issue of DRESS: The Journal of the Costume Society of America. My piece is called “Pucci (Paper) Patterns, 1956–73,” and it’s about Pucci’s licensed couturier patterns for Vogue and McCall’s.

 

Men’s costume illustration on the cover of DRESS: The Journal of the Costume Society of America Vol. 48, No. 1 (Spring 2022). Image: Routledge / Taylor & Francis.

DRESS has both print and digital editions. (Preview the Spring issue here.) DRESS 48.1 is out now and available to order from Routledge / Taylor & Francis.

Happy reading — and happy birthday, Pucci!

Mirella Petteni

Mirella Petteni photographed by Helmut Newton in Venice, 1966
Mirella Petteni in Venice, 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Tumblr.

Happy Mardi Gras! To celebrate the last day of Carnival, here’s a look at the star of Helmut Newton’s 1966 Venetian shoot: Italian model and socialite Mirella Petteni Haggiag.

Born in Bergamo, Mirella Petteni moved to Milan to work as a model. As the wife of film producer Robert Haggiag, Petteni was also a society figure with residences in Venice, Tuscany, New York, and Rome’s Palazzo Mengarini. (See T magazine.) She retired from modelling to become an editor at Vogue Italia.

Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: Sweet Jane.

Petteni can be seen on many Vogue Couturier Designs by Italian designers.

Mirella Petteni in Pucci
Image: PatternVault shop.
Vogue 1397 by Pucci, March 1965 retail catalogue
Vogue 1397 by Pucci, March 1965 retail catalogue. Image: Pinterest.

Petteni also appears in a Vogue holiday editorial that includes two Vogue Special designs (Vogue 6084 and 6054):

Vogue 6084 and 6054 as worn by Mirella Petteni in Vogue, 1963
In Vogue 6084 and 6054, Vogue, December 1963. Photos: Irving Penn? Image: Youthquakers.

Here she wears Galitzine’s halter and culotte:

Mirella Petteni in Vogue 1393 by Galitzine
Vogue 1393 by Galitzine (1964) Image: Etsy.

Here, in Pucci’s bestselling cape-jacket ensemble, Petteni’s aspirational hair is an added bonus:

1960s Pucci pink ensemble pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1394
Vogue 1394 by Pucci (1964) Image: Etsy.
Image: Etsy.

In white dresses from Fabiani and Forquet:

1960s Forquet 2-piece dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1402
Vogue 1402 by Federico Forquet (1964). Image: Etsy.
1960s Fabiani dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1866
Vogue 1866 by Fabiani (1967) Image: Etsy.
1960s Fabiani dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1899
Vogue 1899 by Fabiani (1968) Image: Etsy.

Sorbet colour-blocking from Pucci:

1960s Pucci culotte pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1865
Vogue 1865 by Pucci (1967) Image: Etsy.
1960s Pucci dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1955
Vogue 1955 by Pucci (1968) Image: PatternVault shop.

In Forquet’s short, half-bias evening dress:

1960s Forquet dress pattern feat. Mirella Petteni Haggiag - Vogue Couturier Design 1957
Vogue 1957 by Federico Forquet (1968) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Here she poses with Benedetta Barzini in early Valentino:

Benedetta Barzini and Mirella Petteni in Valentino, at Agnese Bruguier's apartment in the Palazzo Borghese, Rome, 1968
Benedetta Barzini and Mirella Petteni in Valentino, at Agnese Bruguier’s apartment in the Palazzo Borghese, Rome, Vogue, September 1968. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image: tumblr.
Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton
Mirella Petteni in Queen, August 1966. Photo: Helmut Newton. Image: tumblr.