Patterns in Vogue: Hutton Meets Warhol

Model reclines on a large Andy Warhol silver helium-filled pillow wearing a Vogue Pattern 6928 dress
Lauren Hutton with Warhol pillows. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: flickr.

A Vreeland-era Vogue Patterns editorial shows Lauren Hutton with silver, helium-filled pillows by Andy Warhol, who would have been 90 this year.

Andy Warhol photographed by Stephen Shore at Silver Clouds, Leo Castelli Gallery, 1966
Andy Warhol at the Leo Castelli Gallery, 1966. Photo: Stephen Shore. Image: Phaidon.

The Mylar pillows were the stars of Warhol’s Silver Clouds show at the Leo Castelli Gallery in New York. (More here.) The patterns are Vogue 6733 and Vogue 6928, both “Easy to Make.” Shown in silver cloqué, the short dress was adapted as a dancing dress; the long dress was designed as a nightgown. (Regina Novelty earrings; Bernardo sandals. Hair by Marc Sinclaire.)

Happy New Year, everyone! All the best for 2019.

Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966 Photo: Gianni Penati.
Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.
Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966. Photo: Gianni Penati. Image: Youthquakers.

Vogue 6733 and Vogue 6928: 2 patterns worn by Lauren Hutton in Vogue, July 1966

Pattern images: Mrs. Wooster, Vintage Pattern Wiki.

McCall’s Pattern Fashions, Summer 1971

Lauren Hutton in two-piece bathing suit McCall's 9704 - McCall's Pattern Fashions, Summer 1971
Lauren Hutton on the cover of McCall’s Pattern Fashions, Summer 1971. Photo: Myron Miller.

Lauren Hutton frolics in Martinique for McCall’s seasonal pattern book. Hutton wears two-piece swimsuit McCall’s 9704 in orange cotton velour.

More beachwear: Heat Wave! and vintage designer swimwear.

James Galanos: Vogue Patterns

Silk burnooses by Galanos photographed by James Moore for the cover of Harper's Bazaar, October 1966
Silk burnooses by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, October 1966. Photo: James Moore. Image: eBay.

This week, a look at the late James Galanos’ licensed Vogue patterns. (See my McCall’s post here.)

James Galanos Vogue pattern envelope flap with biographical note
James Galanos Vogue pattern envelope flap. Image: eBay.

1960s

"Vogue Americana presents The Masterful Touch of James Galanos": Maud Adams wears V1854 by Galanos
Maud Adams wears Vogue 1854 by James Galanos on the cover of the Vogue Patterns catalogue, January 1968. Image: eBay.

Vogue Patterns introduced James Galanos patterns in late 1967, with two dress designs modelled by Maud Adams and Lauren Hutton. The counter catalogue promotes Galanos’ “masterful touch” with an alternate shot of Vogue 1854, an A-line dress with side pleats at right front and left back:

1960s James Galanos dress pattern - Vogue Americana 1854
Vogue 1854 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Maud Adams. Image: Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Lauren Hutton models Vogue 1855, a coat dress with double inverted pleats in the back:

1960s James Galanos coat dress pattern feat. Lauren Hutton - Vogue 1855
Vogue 1855 by James Galanos (1967) Model: Lauren Hutton. Image: eBay.

This short, wrap-effect evening dress has square armholes and front pleats concealing pockets:

1960s James Galanos evening dress pattern - Vogue 2071
Vogue 2071 by James Galanos (1969) Image: Etsy.

1970s

Later Galanos patterns were photographed on location in New York, where the designer showed his collections. This dress goes one further than Vogue 1855 and has double inverted pleats in both front and back:

1970s James Galanos dress pattern - Vogue 2269
Vogue 2269 by James Galanos (1970) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Jumpsuit Vogue 2524 features a shoulder yoke, pintucks, and wide, corded belt:

1970s James Galanos jumpsuit pattern - Vogue 2524
Vogue 2524 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

The latest Galanos pattern I’ve seen is Vogue 2639, a long-sleeved evening dress with front slit and waistline smocking detail:

1970s James Galanos evening dress pattern - Vogue 2639
Vogue 2639 by James Galanos (1971) Image: Vintage Pattern Wiki.

A dreamy illustration made the cover of the news leaflet:

1970s Galanos evening dress Vogue 2639 illustrated by Ron Becker for Vogue Pattern Fashion News
Vogue 2639 by James Galanos on the cover of Vogue Pattern Fashion News, January 1972. Illustration: Ron Becker. Image: eBay.

For more on James Galanos, see Hamish Bowles’ obituary for Vogue or watch LACMA’s 1996 documentary, Galanos on Galanos (with thanks to Jen O of the Pintucks blog).

Donna Mitchell, "Black silk ottoman cloqué sheath wreathed in feathers by Galanos" photographed by Melvin Sokolsky for Bazaar, fall 1963
Feather-trimmed sheath in silk ottoman cloqué by Galanos on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, November 1963. Photo: Melvin Sokolsky. Model: Donna Mitchell. Image: Paper Pursuits.

Oscar de la Renta: Vogue Patterns, Part 1

OscardelaRenta

There’s only one day left to see Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective, curated by André Leon Talley for the de Young Museum in San Francisco. (Show ends May 30, 2016). If you won’t be able to make it, an exhibition catalogue is available in three formats, including a floral print-bound limited edition. For more on the show see Maghan McDowell, “First Look: Five Decades of Oscar de la Renta.”

de Young Oscar de la Renta exibition catalogue cover
Jennifer Park, Molly Sorkin, and André Leon Talley, Oscar de la Renta (Prestel, 2016) Image: Prestel.

Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) was born Óscar Aristides Ortiz de la Renta Fiallo in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, the only boy in a family of seven. After moving to Spain to study art at Madrid’s Real Academía de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, in 1954 he began work as a sketcher at Balenciaga; by 1959 he was assisting Antonio del Castillo at Lanvin-Castillo in Paris.

LIFE 9 Jul 1956 p118
De la Renta fitting debutante Beatrice Cabot Lodge, Life, July 9, 1956. Photo: Nina Leen. Image: Google books.

In 1963 de la Renta moved to New York to pursue a career in ready-to-wear. He was soon hired as designer for Elizabeth Arden and, in 1965, became a partner at Jane Derby, the house he would take over for his own label. (For more see official site or The New York Times’ timeline.)

House photograph of an evening dress of gold and pink silk damask, Elizabeth Arden by Oscar de la Renta, autumn/winter 1963.
Elizabeth Arden by Oscar de la Renta evening dress in gold and pink silk damask, Fall-Winter 1963. Model: Isabella Albonico. Image: Oscar de la Renta via the de Young Museum.

De la Renta licensed his designs with Vogue Patterns from the 1960s to the 2000s. This week, a look at Oscar de la Renta patterns from the ’60s to the ’80s.

Oscar de la Renta photo + bio on a 1980s Vogue Patterns envelope flap

1960s

Oscar de la Renta dress photographed for Vogue by Henry Clarke at Villa Boscogrande
Oscar de la Renta dress photographed at Villa Boscogrande, Sicily, Vogue, December 1967. Photo: Henry Clarke. Image via Youthquakers.

Oscar de la Renta was among the designers included in Vogue-Butterick’s new Vogue Americana line, which was launched in 1967. From 1968, Vogue 1909 is a short-sleeved evening dress with standing collar and front-dart pockets:

1960s Oscar de la Renta dress pattern Vogue 1909
Vogue 1909 by Oscar de la Renta (1968) Image via the Vintage Pattern Wiki.

This short evening dress has contrast bias cuffs and collar—flexible jewel trim optional:

1960s Oscar de la Renta dress pattern Vogue 2101
Vogue 2101 by Oscar de la Renta (1969) Image via the Vintage Pattern Wiki.

Vogue 2219, an evening dress in two lengths, includes a wide, contrast cummerbund and pockets in the inverted side pleats:

1960s Oscar de la Renta evening dress pattern Vogue 2219
Vogue 2219 by Oscar de la Renta (1969) Image via the Vintage Pattern Wiki.

1970s

Shown in a rich, metallic brocade, Vogue 2280 is a short, high-waisted evening dress accented with a jewel-trimmed belt (as seen in Vogue Pattern Book here):

Vogue 2280
Vogue 2280 by Oscar de la Renta (1970) Image: eBay.

A 1972 editorial by Helmut Newton shows Lauren Hutton in an early Oscar de la Renta caftan:

"Adventures in Yellow": Lauren Hutton with stuntman Lance Rimmer photographed for Vogue by Helmut Newton, 1972
Oscar de la Renta caftan, Vogue, June 1972. Photo: Helmut Newton. Model: Lauren Hutton. Image via Youthquakers.

From 1973—the year of the ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show—this ruffled evening dress was shown in both solid colours and a floral border print:

1970s ruffled Oscar de la Renta dress pattern Vogue 2879
Vogue 2879 by Oscar de la Renta (1973) Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

Christie Brinkley models Vogue 1667, a blouse for two layers of sheer fabric and dirndl maxi skirt with deep hemline ruffle:

Christie Brinkley in 1970s Oscar de la Renta pattern Vogue 1667
Vogue 1667 by Oscar de la Renta in Vogue Patterns, May/June 1977. Model: Christie Brinkley. Image: Vintage Goodness.

Peasant blouse-and-skirt ensemble Vogue 1776 was featured on this winter catalogue cover:

1970s Vogue Patterns catalogue cover featuring Vogue 1776 by Oscar de la Renta
Vogue 1776 by Oscar de la Renta on the cover of Vogue Patterns catalogue, February 1978. Image: eBay.

In this photo by Deborah Turbeville—previously seen in a Patterns in Vogue post—the gold-pistachio lamé evening separates at far right were made using Oscar de la Renta pattern Vogue 2182:

Vogue Nov1979 Turbeville
From “Striking Gold,” Vogue, November 1979. Photo: Deborah Turbeville.

1980s

Vogue 1027’s caftan (previously seen in my caftans post) is featured in the San Francisco exhibit. The original is hand-painted silk crêpe de chine:

1980s Oscar de la Renta caftan pattern Vogue 1027
Vogue 1027 by Oscar de la Renta (ca. 1983) Model: Alva Chinn.
Oscar de la Renta caftan, spring 1982. Hand-painted silk crepe de chine. Kent State University Museum, Silverman/Rodgers Collection. Photo courtesy of the Kent State University Museum, photography by Erin Burns
Oscar de la Renta caftan, Spring 1982. Photo: Erin Burns. Image: Kent State University Museum via the de Young Museum.

Vogue 1644 is a wrap-bodice dress with bias bands defining the waist:

1980s Oscar de la Renta dress pattern Vogue 1644
Vogue 1644 by Oscar de la Renta (1985) Image via Etsy.

These fashion photos by Steven Meisel and Patrick Demarchelier show how well de la Renta was suited to the Eighties aesthetic:

Michelle Eabry wears Oscar de la Renta, photographed for Vogue by Steven Meisel
Oscar de la Renta dress, Vogue, May 1986. Photo: Steven Meisel. Model: Michelle Eabry. Image via The Fashion Spot.
Cindy Crawfrod wears Oscar de la Renta on the cover of British Vogue, spring 1987
Cindy Crawford wears Oscar de la Renta on the cover of British Vogue, April 1987. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier. Image: Vogue UK.

Here, radiating pleats and a bias front godet add volume and interest:

1980s Oscar de la Renta dress pattern Vogue 1997
Vogue 1997 by Oscar de la Renta (1987). Image: Etsy.

Don’t Vogue 2185’s ruffles take the cake?

Vogue 2185 by Oscar de la Renta (1988) Model: Alexandra Aubin. Image: PatternVault on Etsy.

Next: Oscar de la Renta patterns from the 1990s and 2000s.

Lauren Hutton

Lauren Hutton with horse, Vogue Pattern Book Winter 1968
Lauren Hutton in Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968. Photo: Ray Solowinski.

This week my new series on fashion models and sewing patterns continues with the great American model, Lauren Hutton. (See the first instalment, on Gia Carangi, here.)

World traveller, former Playboy Bunny, and daredevil Lauren Hutton (b. 1943) is an iconic figure in late Sixties and Seventies fashion. (Read Voguepedia’s bio here.) She was also a pioneer in transforming modelling into a lucrative career, signing the first exclusive, six-figure, annual cosmetics contract (with Revlon) in 1973. Hutton returned to modelling in her forties, so hers is still a familiar face, even for those who weren’t around for her early work. Recently she has been coming up as a forerunner for the current trend for gap-toothed models.

In the late 1960s, around the time her modelling career was taking off, Hutton did some work for McCall’s and Vogue Patterns. She posed for a few McCall’s New York Designers patterns that were released in 1967, including these designs by Larry Aldrich and Jacques Tiffeau:

McCall's 1018 by Larry Aldrich
McCall’s 1018 by Larry Aldrich (1967) Image via Etsy.
McCall's 1021 by Jacques Tiffeau
McCall’s 1021 by Jacques Tiffeau (1967) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

In the same year Hutton also modelled for Vogue patterns. Here she opens a two-page feature introducing Bill Blass to the new Vogue Americana line:

VPB Intl Winter 1967
An Introduction to Bill Blass: Lauren Hutton models Vogue 1830 in Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1967. Photo: Marc Slade.

Hutton appears on two more Bill Blass designs released in early 1969:

Vogue 2099 by Bill Blass
Vogue 2099 by Bill Blass (1969) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.
Vogue 2100 by Bill Blass
Vogue 2100 by Bill Blass (1969) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

I also found two editorials featuring Hutton in a 1968 issue of Vogue Pattern Book. (My copy is the oversize international edition, so the scans are slightly cropped.) Both editorials promote non-designer patterns, so Hutton doesn’t appear on the pattern envelopes.

The first editorial shows the new wrap look. Here Hutton wears a wool fleece wrap coat, Vogue 7448:

Lauren Hutton models a 1960s coat pattern, Vogue 7448, in Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968.
“Fashion-Right Wraps,” Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968. Photo: Len Steckler.

(A quick search for this coat pattern turned up not one but two versions by sewing bloggers: Zoe of So, Zo and Tanit-Isis.)

The photo that opens this post is from the second, country-themed editorial, which was photographed by Ray Solowinski. (The design Hutton models beside the horse is Vogue 7426, “a biscuit coloured jumper in fabulously fake leather … lightly shaped to the body and loosely belted.”) In the first two photos Hutton models a tweed dress and fringed stole, Vogue 7439, and a camel-hair coat, Vogue 7416:

VPB Winter 1968b
Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968. Photo: Ray Solowinski.
Lauren Hutton models a camel-hair coat in Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968
Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968. Photo: Ray Solowinski.

The last photo shows Vogue 7417, a wool flannel dress with “a perky sailor collar and bias binding of white flannel. The self-belt rides low on the hips, over a slightly A-lined skirt.”

Lauren Hutton with Louis Vuitton bag, photographed by Ray Solowinski for Vogue Pattern Book Winter 1968
Vogue Pattern Book, Winter 1968. Photo: Ray Solowinski.

With its earth tones and natural look (despite the wig) this last shoot illustrates how, heading into the Seventies, Hutton’s strengths were the perfect fit.