Farewell to Isabel Toledo, designer and seamstress. She will be missed.
Alexander McQueen would have been 50 today.
As many of you know, I started this blog with posts on Alexander McQueen, as a way to commemorate his work. His birthday is a natural time to revisit and reflect on his legacy. Since my last roundup in 2015, for the London version of Savage Beauty, I’ve posted about the designer’s 1998 Blade Runner collection. You’ll also find extensive updates to my inaugural McQueen for Givenchy series: as part of my recent blog redesign, I added additional and improved images from runway, advertising, and editorial.
Paco Peralta, the beloved Spanish couturier and mentor to the online sewing community, died on Saturday in Barcelona. He was 57.
Adéu, Paco, dear friend. You will be greatly missed.
Francisco Peralta Rovira, known as Paco Peralta, born February 1, 1962, Huesca, Aragon, died February 2, 2019, Barcelona.
In memory of Eiko Ishioka, who would have been 80 this year, a look at costume patterns based on her work.
Eiko Ishioka (1938-2012) is best known as the costume designer for The Cell and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, for which she won an Academy Award in 1993. Her last film project was Tarsem Singh’s Mirror Mirror, starring Julia Roberts and Lily Collins.
McCall’s and Simplicity both released patterns based on the film. McCall’s 6629 came in adult and children’s sizes. (Out of print, but details still on the Cosplay by McCall’s site.)
On the left—view D with collar E and feathered backpiece F—is Julia Roberts’ wicked queen. Ishioka’s original gown has panniers and miles of cartridge pleating:
The gown features white peacock embroidery and a molded basque with four-piece cups.
View B (top right) is clearly Lily Collins’ Snow White, but so is view A. It’s the dress with floral basque and skirt, seen early in the film, which Ishioka topped with one of the most memorable capes in cinema.
Simplicity also offered Snow White’s dress from the film’s Bollywood finale, moving the giant bow down from the shoulders.
The Costume Designers’ Guild gave Ishioka a posthumous award for Mirror Mirror. (For more on the production, see Wired.) And since her on-screen version, all yellow capes seem to point back to Snow White’s.
Joy Emery, Professor Emerita of the University of Rhode Island and curator of the Commercial Pattern Archive, has died. She was 81.
Emery is the author of Stage Costume Techniques (Prentice-Hall, 1981) and A History of the Paper Pattern Industry (Bloomsbury, 2014), which I reviewed for this blog. Memorial donations may be made to the Joy Spanabel Emery Endowment Fund.
Manuel Pertegaz was born on this day in 1918. Paco Peralta asked me to contribute to his post for the designer’s centenary; see it here.