In memoriam: Stella Tennant

Stella Tennant in Oscar de la Renta opera coat, Oh, Pioneers! Arthur Elgort / Grace Coddington
Stella Tennant in Oscar de la Renta FW 2001, Vogue, June 2001. Photo: Arthur Elgort. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Bellazon.

In memory of Stella Tennant, 1970–2020.

Silk crepe bias-cut dress with gold ivy, Givenchy Haute Couture by Alexander McQueen. "White Noise" photographed by Craig McDean; fashion editor: Melanie Ward.
Stella Tennant in Spring 1997 Givenchy Haute Couture by Alexander McQueen (The Search for the Golden Fleece), Harper’s Bazaar, May 1997. Photo: Craig McDean. Editor: Melanie Ward.

Read her British Vogue obituary.

Plainsong: Chintzy prints brighten dusty gray days. Cabbage-rose taffeta off-the-shoulder gown with matching wrap belt, John Galliano Paris.
Stella Tennant in John Galliano FW 2001 (Techno Romance), Vogue, June 2001. Photo: Arthur Elgort. Editor: Grace Coddington. Image: Vogue.com.

Free Designer Pattern: John Galliano Jacket

Louise Pedersen models the John Galliano 'Pirate' jacket, photographed by Craig McDean
Louise Pederson in John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket. Photo: Craig McDean. Image: SHOWstudio.

This week’s second punk-inspired pattern puts the ‘couture’ in Chaos to Couture. (The first punk-inspired pattern was by Junya Watanabe—see my post here.) John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket is the most challenging of SHOWstudio’s Design Downloads, with 63 pattern pieces, all hand-labelled in French. But not to worry: 11 are guide pieces, and most of the French is translated.

Here are side and back views of the jacket:

Louise Pedersen models the John Galliano 'Pirate' jacket - side view
Side view of John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket. Photo: Craig McDean. Model: Louise Pederson. Image: SHOWstudio.
Louise Pedersen models the John Galliano 'Pirate' jacket - back view
Back view of John Galliano’s ‘Pirate’ jacket. Photo: Craig McDean. Image: SHOWstudio.

The ‘Pirate’ jacket is from John Galliano’s Fall/Winter 2001 collection, entitled Techno Romance. Here it is on the runway:

Angela Lindvall models the John Galliano Techno Romance / SHOWstudio jacket, 2001
Angela Lindvall in Galliano Fall 2001. Image: Vogue Runway.

The collection mixed glossy synthetics (techno) with delicate sheers and florals (romance): jaunty double-breasted jackets and long coats worn with sailor trousers, and long skirts and dresses, many with the same romantically skewed, off-the-shoulder, one-sleeved bodices as the SHOWstudio jacket. (See Suzy Menkes, “Techno Romance.”) In her short essay to accompany the Design Download, Jane Audas conjures an imaginary history for the SHOWstudio version of the jacket—a story of rebellion in which it was fashioned from the Union Jack, “the flag torn off a captured ship and hijacked as clothing, held together with sail rivets and ties.”

Here are the collection images from L’Officiel 1000 modèles (click to enlarge):

John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear - Techno-Romance
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear - Techno Romance
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2001 ready-to-wear. Image: jalougallery.

Fashion Channel has posted runway video of the collection on YouTube in three parts (jacket at 3:50 of part 2):

John Galliano Techno Romance pattern at SHOWstudio
Image: SHOWstudio.

Download the ‘Pirate’ jacket pattern

Fabrics requirements: approx. 3 yards of 60″ fabric and 3 yards of lining; interfacing.

Notions: grosgrain ribbon, D-rings, large metal stud, press studs, 2 buckles, eyelets, snaps, cord, elastic, 53 cm (21″) separating zipper.

See the SHOWstudio submissions gallery here. Carolyn E. Moore made the jacket twice. Weatherpixie has posted process photos of her red, white, and blue version on Flickr.