For Summer, 2020, Rachel Comey covers the Vogue Patterns lookbook for the second season in a row.
Like Spring’s Agave suit, the aqua and gold cover look is from Rachel Comey Spring 2019. The Amplus top features big puffed sleeves and overcast edge detail, while the New Joust trousers are high rise with a tapered leg. Both pieces were offered in a linen blend.
The second Rachel Comey design is the Frida jacket, seen here in cotton-blend seersucker. Ruffles abound on this fun, cropped jacket, including the raw-edged trim for the elbow cutouts.
The new Guy Laroche is from Fall 2018, the same collection as Winter’s V1666 pantsuit. The runway version better shows the seaming detail:
From Badgley Mischka, a pattern for the Belcanto dress. The duo’s Spring 2018 collection was inspired by Capri.
Triple-tiered tassels not included.
In terms of adaptations, there’s a version of The Row’s Abel blouse.
A maxi version opened the Spring 2019 presentation.
For Spring 2020, Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were inspired by the Dominican Republic. Margot Robbie wore their blue, wide-leg jumpsuit — bowless — on The Tonight Show in February. The moiré faille is a cotton-viscose blend.
It’s always nice to see current-season looks. The new Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit is from the Spring 2020 collection, which the designer presented on a Dr. Seuss runway near her new Tribeca headquarters. Rowley’s original is Tencel, a sustainable cellulose fibre. (View in webstore.)
Reviewing Rowley’s hometown Resort ’18 lookbook, I thought this dress looked sewist-friendly. Simplicity didn’t include it in their Spring lookbook, so I missed adding it to my previous pattern report.
For variations, add contrast trim, use a print, or make it a maxi with sequin appliqué.
My Winter patterns report comes a little late: I’ve been busy working to save a historic hotel-turned-tavern here in Hamilton. (Read my op-ed | #SaveHanrahans) Without further ado, here’s a look at the last patterns of the decade.
Vogue’s cover look is a white jersey gown from Badgley Mischka. As worn on the pattern envelope by new model Shaya Ali:
The new Guy Laroche — a minimalist pantsuit with contrast trim — is the company’s first by Richard René.
René’s second collection for Laroche was inspired by art brut and the graphic potential of a blank sheet of paper. According to Vogue, he showed structured pieces for strong personalities, with details like “stand-up edging that adds a cape-like extra inch or two to the shoulders.”
From Cynthia Rowley, a pattern for the Eden dress and top.
The original Eden dress in polished cotton. (The top version is a lightweight printed cotton: webstore | Rent the Runway.)
This flounced dress by Cynthia Rowley is seen variously in the designer’s Inverness Fish print and bias-cut silk lamé.
Rowley’s longtime collaborator William Eadon photographed the lookbook in her hometown of Barrington, Illinois. The lookbook was styled by her daughter, Kit Keenan.
For a subtle variation, close the front bodice seam.
These pleated trousers are adapted from Celine by Hedi Slimane.
McCall’s chic cover look is a version of Max Mara’s hooded cape coat.
Here’s the Max Mara original in cashmere twill:
Vogue Couturier patterns are the original Vogue designer knockoffs. The new Vintage Vogue is a Couturier coat from 1949:
The new Custom Fit patterns are also designer adaptations. View A of V1654 is after Gucci.
And V1667 is a version of Prabal Gurung’s tulip sleeve jacket. (Trousers not included.)