Vogue Australia at 60

Elle Macpherson, Vogue Australia, March 1995. Photo: Andrew Macpherson. Image: Vogue Australia.

It’s spring in the southern hemisphere, and Australian Vogue is celebrating its 60th anniversary. The festivities kicked off in Canberra last week with the opening of Women in Vogue: Celebrating 60 years in Australia (at the National Portrait Gallery to November 24, 2019). A special anniversary issue of the magazine will hit newsstands in December.

Fernanda Ly, Akiima, Charlee Fraser, and Andreja Pejić on the cover of Vogue Australia, 2018
Fernanda Ly, Akiima, Charlee Fraser, and Andreja Pejić on the cover of Vogue Australia, April 2018. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier. Editor: Christine Centenara. Image: Vogue Australia.

The late Tania Mallet graced the cover of Vogue Australia’s first issue in spring, 1959. (Click the image for a history published for the magazine’s 55th anniversary.)

Vogue AU Spring Summer 1959
Tania Mallet on the cover of the inaugural issue of Vogue Australia, Spring/Summer 1959. Photo: Norman Parkinson. Image: Vogue Australia.

Vogue Australia editor Edwina McCann sits on the board of directors of the new Australian Fashion Council, and the magazine’s cover archive is a gallery of famous faces, especially Australians like Cate Blanchett.

Vogue Australia, January 2006
Cate Blanchett on the cover of Vogue Australia, January 2006. Photo: Richard Bailey. Image: Vogue Australia.

Vogue Patterns counts two Australians among its current designers: Rebecca Vallance and Nicola Finetti.

V1524 by Rebecca Vallance design on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Winter 2016
A Rebecca Vallance design on the cover of Vogue Patterns lookbook, Winter 2016. Image: Issuu.
V1587 by Nicola Finetti on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2018
A Nicola Finetti design on the cover of the Vogue Patterns lookbook, Summer 2018. Image: Issuu.

Vogue Australia was still in its first decade when Butterick introduced two Aussies—Norma Tullo and Prue Acton—to its Young Designers line.

Butterick 5126 by Norma Tullo
Butterick 5126 by Norma Tullo (ca. 1968) Image: Etsy.
Butterick 5617 by Prue Acton (1969) Image: Etsy.

In the 1980s, Carla Zampatti and Frederick Fox both signed licensing deals with Style Patterns. The milliner to the Queen contributed more than one bridal design in classic Eighties style.

1980s dress pattern by Carla Zampatti - Style 4438
Style 4438 by Carla Zampatti (1986) Image: Etsy.
1980s Frederick Fox bridal hat pattern Style 1249 with the royal warrant
Style 1249 by Frederick Fox (1987)

In the 1990s, Richard Tyler briefly designed for Anne Klein. It’s possible that an Anne Klein pattern or two showcases Tyler’s work.

Nadja Auermann in Richard Tyler for Anne Klein, Vogue February 1995
Nadja Auermann in Richard Tyler for Anne Klein, Vogue, February 1995. Photo: Juergen Teller. Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
Australian model Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, 2005. Photo: Nick Knight
Australian model Gemma Ward in Junya Watanabe, 2005. Photo: Nick Knight. Image: SHOWstudio.
Vogue coverup photographed by Helmut Newton at Wanda Beach, Australia (May 1964)
Vogue coverup (Adolfo hat), Wanda Beach, Australia. Photo: Helmut Newton. Vogue, May 1, 1964.

VISIBLE feat. Paco Peralta

Sketch for V1602 by Paco Peralta ©2017. Courtesy Paco Peralta.

This month in Galicia, the late Paco Peralta is among the artists whose work is on view in Visible (Visibility), a Pride Month exhibit curated by the photographer Daniel Agra.

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Este año se cumplen los 50 años de lucha por los derechos LGBTQ + . Desde spazo y CPSspazo queremos hacer desde el arte nuestro particular homenaje este mes de Junio, con nuestra mini colectiva “Visible” en las que participan artistas y defensores de los derechos LGBTQ +. Todo empezó el 28 de junio de 1969 en la ciudad de Nueva York, con el allanamiento por parte de la policía del Stonewall Inn, uno de los bares frecuentados por la comunidad LGBTQ +, que lejos de rendirse, un grupo de personas valientes se puso de pie. Esto generó cinco noches de protestas por los derechos LGBTQ +, fue la chispa que puso en marcha estos 50 años de Orgullo. Después de esto incidentes, las organizaciones de derechos LGBTQ + comenzaron a surgir en los Estados Unidos y en todo el mundo. El 27 y 28 de junio de 1970 en Nueva York, Los Ángeles, San Francisco y Chicago, fueron los primeros desfiles del Orgullo que conmemoraban a Stonewall Inn. En estos 50 años del movimiento de derechos LGBTQ +, ha habido muchos éxitos, pero queda mucho camino por recorrer, pero el legado de Stonewall vive cada día del año y en especial en cada marcha del Orgullo. . A Flaira [] A Coruña [] Pintora Multidisciplinar Paco Peralta [] Barcelona [] Modista Alta Costura – Designer Vogue Patterns De Rey [] A Coruña [] Escritor – Poeta Mabi Cerdán [] Navarra [] Pintora y Activista Pro Derechos Chelo Facal [] A Coruña [] Pintora y Escultora Lázaro Louzao [] A Coruña [] Director de Cine – Fotógrafo Javi Pita [] A Coruña [] Artista Multidisciplinar Martínez [] A Coruña [] Pintora – Restauradora – Encuadernadora – Técnico en Dorado Clara Lelarge [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafa Ana Soto [] A Coruña [] Ilustradora – Pintora Daniel Agra [] A Coruña [] Fotógrafo Estáis invitados… Os esperamos el Viernes día 7 a las 20.00 !!! . #espacio #spazovisible #setumismo #setumisma #talycomoeres #expositivo #expresiones #lenguajes #pensamientos #artgallery #artecontemporaneo #contemporaryart #contemporaryartist #coleccionistasdearte #artcollector #exhibition #exposicion #galeria #arte #coruna #coruña #acoruña #galicia #galiza #spazospazo

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Agra was a close friend of Paco Peralta. For the exhibit, he has included the designer’s original sample garments for Vogue 1602, a sculpted top and skirt in sequinned tweed. Peralta’s originals were worn by Nadja Giramata for last year’s Winter/Holiday release.

Nadja Giramata in an ensemble by Paco Peralta on view at CPS Spazo gallery, Galicia. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Image: McCall’s.

Behind the scenes note: makeup was by Joseph Boggess / YSL Beauty. Peralta was a great collector of Yves Saint Laurent.

A Vogue pattern by Paco Peralta will remain on permanent exhibit at the Galician gallery.

Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta
Vogue 1602 by Paco Peralta (2018) Image: McCall’s.

Update: Paco’s friend Tany has also posted about the exhibit.

Visible is at A Coruña’s CPS spazo gallery through the month of June.

Visible, Friday, June 7th to Friday, June 28th, 2019

CPS spazo, Avda Mallos, 1, 15007 A Coruña, Galicia, Spain


Armistice Centenary

Illustration of women in uniform on the cover of Butterick magazine The Delineator, November 1918
Women in uniform on the cover of The Delineator, November 1918. Image: eBay.

This Sunday is the centenary of the Armistice of 1918, marking the end of World War I.

On the November 1918 Delineator cover shown above, two women wear military uniforms that could be sewn from a Butterick pattern. (Also pictured in the late Joy Emery’s book. Look inside the issue here.) Click the images below for my 1914 centenary post, Patterns for the Great War, and other patterns for war work.

Responding to the Country's Call: patterns for war work in McCall's magazine, July 1917.
Responding to the Country’s Call, McCall’s magazine, July 1917. Image: eBay.
McCall 8125 dress, McCall 8130 aviation cap / McCall 8121 dress - cover of McCall Fashions for January 1918
Wartime skating in an aviation cap (left). McCall Fashions for January 1918.

New Look

Vogue 1245 1Jan1954

I’m delighted to introduce my blog redesign. Bear with me as I tweak seven years’ worth of content.

The new format has a more streamlined navigation, as well as increased space for images and an improved mobile experience.

I’ve also added a tip jar. Your contribution can help me maintain this blog without advertising. Thank you!

Let me know what you think, and stay tuned for updates on the shop and other new features.

Lamont O'Neal illustration, "Timeless Style... Vintage Vogue." Vogue Patterns Sept/Oct 1999 catalogue back cover with Vogue 2321 illustration

Punk: Chaos to Couture

Sid Vicious, 1977, Photograph © Dennis Morris - all rights reserved; Right: Karl Lagerfeld (French, born Hamburg, 1938) for House of Chanel (French, founded 1913), 2011, Vogue, March 2011, Photograph by David Sims
Sid Vicious, 1977. Daria Werbowy in Chanel, Vogue, March 2011. Photos: Dennis Morris, David Sims. Image: Metropolitan Museum of Art.

This year’s Costume Institute exhibition, PUNK: Chaos to Couture, is devoted to punk and its influence on high fashion. The show relates the punk ethos of DIY (do-it-yourself) to the custom-made garments of haute couture, devoting sections to the distinctive elements of punk’s aesthetic vocabulary: embellishments and techniques such as hardware, graffiti, and distressing. In addition to curator Andrew Bolton, the exhibition team includes Nick Knight as creative consultant and design consultant Sam Gainsbury, who was creative director of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.

It seems the punk theme is presenting a challenge for some celebrities attending the Met’s Costume Institute gala on Monday. (See Eric Wilson, “Would Anna Settle for a Safety Pin?“) You can watch a live stream from the red carpet this Monday, May 6th at 7pm EDT.

PUNK: Chaos to Couture runs from May 9th to August 14th, 2013. If you can’t make it to New York this summer, the exhibition catalogue is out next week from Yale University Press.

Book cover - Punk: Chaos to Couture by Andrew Bolton (Yale University Press, 2013)
Punk: Chaos to Couture by Andrew Bolton (Yale University Press, 2013) Image: Yale / Google Books.

This week, in the punk spirit of DIY, I’ll be posting about two punk-inspired patterns in my Free Designer Patterns series.

Toronto Sewing Blog Meetup

Last Saturday I had the pleasure of participating in a Toronto sewing blog meetup, co-organized by Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow and Adrienne of All Style and All Substance. All together we were eighteen sewing enthusiasts—some with blogs, some without, and one who’d taken the train in from Montreal:

Who knew there were so many sewing bloggers in the GTA? We split into two groups to avoid swarming the shops:

Andi, Kristiann, Dana, Adrienne, me, and Anastasia outside Leather & Sewing Supply Depot on Vanauley St.
Vicki, Sandra, Jagoda, Chloe, Reethi, Tracy, and Debbie outside Leather & Sewing Supply Depot.

Catja brought everyone decadent cake pops that were the perfect shopping break calorie bomb (get her recipe here):

Adrienne and I enjoy our cake pops; Catja with her handiwork; Tracy and Catja. Images via All Style and All Substance.

After gathering at Le Gourmand near Queen and Spadina, we started at King Textiles, where the young SA observed, “You’re all wearing name tags.” From there we hit Leathertown (officially Leather & Sewing Supply Depot), Downtown Fabrics, and the Wool House before heading over to Tequila Bookworm for refreshments and a swap.

I wasn’t doing any shopping, but a highlight was when the owner at Downtown Fabrics produced a matchbook and lit some fabric on fire. (He was demonstrating that a fine Japanese lining was cotton with a burn test.) There’s nothing like that old-fashioned salesmanship. Kristiann, who’s the owner of local indie pattern company Victory Patterns, also shared some tips on where to find the right trim for a vintage sewing project I have in the works, which should be very helpful next time I’m in the fashion district.

Here we all are at Tequila Bookworm:

Upstairs at Tequila Bookworm.

Our amazing organizers both wore clothes they had made themselves. Adrienne wore her self-drafted Granny-smith blouse and skirt, and Gillian wore one of her versions of the Tiramisu dress from Cake Patterns:

Adrienne and Gillian, organizers of the meetup
Adrienne and Gillian.

Unfortunately I hadn’t had a chance to cull anything for the swap, so I was surprised to be able to score one of Vicki’s vintage patterns in the swap’s second round-cum-free-for-all. Thanks, Vicki!

The event was such a success that there is talk of a second meetup this summer; details will be posted on Gillian’s blog. In the meantime, Reethi has put together a handy GTA blogroll, and Vicki’s sewing blogger mapping project, Map the Sewintists, helps bloggers worldwide in planning non-virtual events. Check it out, and til the next meetup!

Local Event: Textile Museum Sale

Hand-embroidered animals on a Bengali kantha at the Textile Museum of Canada
Detail of a hand-embroidered Bengali kantha at the Textile Museum of Canada.

For those of you in the GTA, next weekend is the More Than Just a Yardage Sale, the Textile Museum of Canada’s annual fundraising sale in downtown Toronto. The Museum’s volunteers will be selling lots of sewing and crafting supplies including fabric and yarn, buttons and beads. Here’s the official poster:

More Than Just a Yardage Sale poster

This is a free event. Look for the tent in the parking lot next to the museum, which is at 55 Centre Ave., near Dundas and University.