Tennis, Anyone?

June 25, 2012 § 8 Comments

art deco tennis illustration McCall Style News May 1928

McCall Style News, May 1928.

Wimbledon kicks off today. In honour of the world’s oldest tennis tournament, here’s a selection of patterns for playing the most fashionable sport.

Tennis Vogue June 1927 cover by Harriet Meserole 15 July 1927 US edition

Vogue UK, late June 1927. Illustration: Harriet Meserole. Image via G1Art.

Modern tennis fashion really got underway in the 1920s, when tennis became a popular leisure activity and couturiers like Chanel, Patou, and Vionnet designed tennis wear to meet the demand for fashionable luxury sportswear. (For more on ’20s tennis fashion see the Voguepedia article Tennis Dressing.)

Typically, sewing patterns for tennis outfits show a woman holding a tennis racquet. The Deco cover of the McCall Style News shown at the top of this post portrays McCall 5277 as a dress for tennis, but the pattern envelope doesn’t advertise its suitability for sports. The illustration simply shows a day dress with the skirt pleated in front; the handkerchief collar and scarf girdle are optional:

McCall 5277 1920s tennis dress McCall's catalogue illustration

McCall 5277 (1928) in the McCall’s catalogue, 1930. Image courtesy of echopoint.

In the early 1930s, sports dresses had lower hemlines, but could be worn unbuttoned in the back, like this McCall’s sports dress from 1933:

McCall 7663 early 1930s sports dress for tennis

McCall 7663 (1933) Sports dress. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

This pattern was illustrated on the cover of the Spring 1934 McCall Fashion Book:

Cycling and tennis ensebles on the cover of McCall Fashion Book, Spring 1934

McCall Fashion Book, Spring 1934.

(Catalogue image courtesy of Judy Yates of Vintage4me2.)

Playsuits and shorts became fashionable tennis wear after American tennis champion Alice Marble wore shorts to a professional match in 1932. These McCall’s sports separates include a tennis outfit with high-waisted shorts:

McCall 9180 1930s Slacks, shorts, and shirt pattern for tennis

McCall 9180 (1937) Slacks, shorts, and shirt. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Lauren of Wearing History has made the McCall 9180 trousers; you can see a photo by clicking the pattern image.

The ‘masculine’ shorts trend continued into wartime, which also saw a return to the sports dress. This Advance tennis dress has a front zipper and inverted pleat, and includes panties for underneath:

Advance 2754 WW2 1940s day or tennis dress and panties pattern

Advance 2754 (c. 1941) Day or tennis dress and panties. Image via Vivian Belle Vintage.

In the postwar period tennis dresses or skirts, pleated or plain, became the standard tennis wear. The silhouettes reflected current trends, but with higher hemlines, as with this tennis dress with pleated skirt and cinched waist:

McCall 7170 1940s tennis dress and shorts pattern

McCall 7170 (1948) Tennis dress and shorts. Image via eBay.

This Vogue tennis dress is a shorter version of the day dress also included in the pattern (check out the vintage camera):

Vogue 9101 1950s tennis dress and shorts pattern

Vogue 9101 (1957) Dress and shorts. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Tennis hemlines are rising with these Vogue sports separates, which include a sleeveless blouse, shorts, and tennis skirt:

Vogue 9771 late 1950s blouse, skirt and shorts pattern

Vogue 9771 (1959) Blouse, skirt, and shorts. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

More perky pleats on this early 1960s tennis dress from McCall’s:

McCalls 6825 1960s tennis dress and panties pattern

McCall’s 6825 (1963) Tennis dress and panties. Image via Etsy.

The popularity of tennis in the 1970s prompted the release of a wide variety of tennis patterns, for dresses, visors, and even racquet covers and other accessories. Vogue Patterns licensed tennis wear from Anne Klein, Penfold, and Anne Klein for Penfold (illustrated on the June 1976 news cover here). These Vogue Patterns magazine covers show an Anne Klein tennis outfit in action and Regine Jaffrey modelling a Vogue tennis shirt and visor:

Vogue Patterns magazine April/May 1973 Anne Klein tennis cover

Vogue 2841 by Anne Klein on the cover of Vogue Patterns magazine, April/May 1973. Image via Etsy.

Model Regine Jaffrey in a tennis shirt and visor, Vogue Patterns magazine Spring 1975

Vogue Patterns, Spring 1975. Model: Regine Jaffrey. Image via eBay.

Butterick licensed designs by women’s tennis champion Chris Evert, including this pattern for a tennis dress, briefs, and visor:

Butterick 4688 1970s Chrissie Evert for Puritan Fashions pattern for tennis dress, briefs, and visor

Butterick 4688 by Chrissie Evert for Puritan Fashions (c. 1977). Tennis dress, briefs, and visor. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Karen Bjornson models this Penfold set consisting of a sleeveless tennis dress, t-shirt, shorts, and wrap miniskirt:

Vogue 1635 1970s tennis dress, t-shirt, shorts, and wrap skirt pattern

Vogue 1635 (c. 1977) Tennis dress, t-shirt, shorts, and wrap skirt. Model: Karen Bjornson. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

It’s interesting how the history of women’s tennis wear is a history of female athletes pushing the envelope: from May Sutton Bundy’s rolled-up sleeves, in 1905, and Suzanne Lenglen’s higher hemlines, to Alice Marble’s shorts and Serena Williams’ recent subversion (with hot pink briefs) of the rule of Wimbledon whites. (See a Guardian Wimbledon slideshow here and Vogue’s tennis slideshow here.) Women’s tennis fashions insist on femininity while offering an escape from modesty.

Heat Wave! Vintage Beachwear Patterns

August 8, 2011 § 5 Comments

A wrapped and tied beach kimono. Reeves cotton printed by Cranston. Vogue Pattern Book, June/July 1961. Photo: Schiavone. Model: Jean Shrimpton?

It’s been a very hot summer here in Toronto. The Toronto Standard’s recent article on nearby Sunnyside Beach is a reminder of how Torontonians coped with high temperatures in the days before air conditioning. The stretch of Lake Ontario shoreline known as Sunnyside Beach was a popular bathing spot from the early 20th century on, and the beach’s popularity was given a boost with the opening of Sunnyside Amusement Park in 1922. The amusement park was mostly demolished in 1955 to make room for the Gardiner Expressway, but some of the original structures remain, including the boat house and dance hall Palais Royale and the Sunnyside Bathing Pavilion.

Sunnyside Bathing Pavilion, archway detail. Image courtesy of Alex Laney via Wikipedia Commons.

Vintage beachwear patterns open a similar window onto summers past. What women wore to the beach can seem to encapsulate an era, both because beachwear is an especially trend-driven category of women’s wear and because of the attitudes to the female body it often reveals. In this post you’ll find a selection of beachwear patterns from the 1930s to the 1980s.* Enjoy!

1930s

Here’s a late thirties Vogue pattern from the Commercial Pattern Archive (CoPA). Follow the image link for CoPA’s virtual exhibition on swimwear patterns.

Vogue 8237 (1938) Bathing suit. Image via At the Pond, CoPA virtual exhibition.

The 1930s also saw a fashion for beach pajamas, lounge wear for days at the beach. This illustration from McCall’s magazine shows new patterns for beach fashions. The first pattern is for a kerchief top, dolman jacket and beach trousers, the second makes a gorgeous beach wrap:

Beachwear fashions. McCall’s magazine, April 1932.

(You can see the accompanying text in this Etsy listing.) Here are a couple early ’30s McCall patterns for beach pajamas:

McCall 6945 (1932) Beach pajamas. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

McCall 7344 (1933) Sports or beach pajamas and cape. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Simplicity’s promotional material calls this late ’30s halter design “a pajama ensemble for sun-tan fans.” (See linked wiki page for repro information.)

Simplicity 3081 (1939) Pajama ensemble. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

1940s

The forties saw the rise of two-piece bathing suits with pinup-style, high-waisted skirts or tap pants for the bottoms. Vogue 9046 is an early but typical ’40s swimsuit. (See linked wiki page for repro information.)

Vogue 9046 (c. 1941) Two-piece bathing suit. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

This McCall design is for a cute tie-back, halter top style with pleated bottoms:

McCall 5648 (1944) Two-piece bathing suit. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

I found this transitional late ’40s pattern through Oodles and oodles’ series on the patterns of sisters Alice and Edna. It’s one of my favourites:

Vogue 6709

Vogue 6709 (1949) Bathing suit. Image via Oodles and oodles.

1950s

Fifties beachwear shows the same silhouettes and details as the decade’s women’s wear. The cover-up in this mid-’50s pattern is basically a shorter version of a wasp-waisted, full-skirted fifties day dress (but check out the crazy tiki hat):

1950s bathing suit and cover-up pattern - Vogue 8883

Vogue 8883 (1956) Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

In 1957 Emilio Pucci did a series of designs for McCall’s that included this skirted, strapless bathing suit:

McCall’s 3977 by Emilio Pucci (1957) Strapless bathing suit and shirred overskirt. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

(Wade Laboissonniere includes a McCall’s photo of the Pucci pattern in his Blueprints of Fashion: Home Sewing Patterns of the 1950s, p. 127.)

This sarong style of swimsuit carried over into the early ’60s:

Vogue 9749 (1959) Bathing suit and reversible beach coat. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

1960s

Early sixties swimsuit patterns tend to be variations on the modest two-piece with shorts or boy-cut briefs. Here’s the pattern image for the early ’60s beach kimono pictured at the top of this post. The pattern also included a one- or two-piece bathing suit:

Vogue 5263

Vogue 5263 (1961) Beach kimono and bathing suits. Image via eBay.

Vogue 6212 includes a babydoll beach dress and a hat similar to the one worn by Jessica Paré as Megan in Season 4 of Mad Men:

Vogue 6212 (1964) Two-piece swimsuit, beach dress and hat. Image via the Vintage Patterns wiki.

Two-pieces seem to have made the decisive shift to bikinis in the later 1960s:

Vogue 6752 (c. 1966) Bikini and cover-up. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

1970s

Seventies swimwear showed sleeker lines, still with a lower-cut leg. Maxi cover-ups came into fashion as the decade progressed. Here’s a fabulous early ’70s Vogue one-piece (with a ’60s-style hat and cover-up):

Vogue 7815 (1970) Bathing suit, cover-up and hat. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

During the ’70s Vogue Patterns also released designer swimwear patterns by Catalina and Penfold (including Anne Klein for Penfold). The bikinis are actually pretty classic:

Vogue 1416 by Anne Klein for Penfold (1976) Swimsuit, bikini, cover-up and scarf. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Vogue 1655 by Penfold (1977) Swimsuit, bikini and cover-up. Image via eBay.

1980s

Eighties swimwear had a new, higher-cut leg and favoured the high-contrast brights and prints typical of the decade. Oleg Cassini’s line of patterns for Simplicity included this one-piece swimsuit with pareo:

Simplicity 6884 by Oleg Cassini (1985) Swimsuit and wrap skirt. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

Brooke Shields also licensed some designs with McCall’s, including a few swimwear patterns. Here’s the one that hits the most ’80s trends:

McCall’s 9566 by Brooke Shields (1985) Bathing suit. Image via the Vintage Patterns Wiki.

And in case you needed instruction in swimwear sewing techniques, Vogue Patterns had a book for you:

Everything about Sewing Swimwear (1972). Image via eBay.

*For those interested in pre-1930s swimwear patterns, you can see a repro pattern for a 19th century bathing costume here; some early 20th century bathing suit patterns here and here; and some 1920s swimsuit patterns here and here.

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